Tennesseejed

You can tune your VE tables a couple of ways: 1. With EGO on, take a long drive/datalog. Using the VE Analyze feature in MegaLogViewer, you can adjust and modify your current VE table. Make several runs and use a little common sense to smooth out cells that don't match neighboring cells. After half a dozen datalogs, you can get a pretty good tune. 2. Purchase a registered version of TunerStudio and run VE Analyze Live while driving. The program will (I think) automatically burn adjusted tables periodically, but you should certainly hit the "burn" button before closing the program. I normally raise the EGO correction to 5% with a new/rough tune and then lower back to 1% after a few runs. Keep in mind that your AFR table is most important. Spend some time studying different AFR tables as well as studying how your particular engine operates, i.e., at what MAP/RPM does it idle and cruise on the highway. Highway cruising at 11.5:1, for example, is a waste of gas and performance. Without dyno tuning, you really don't know for certain the best AFR for max power and torque, but you can get a pretty good idea by studying different tunes. Lastly, I love your car. Those black wheel are sweet.

78zstyle, I downloaded your datalog and converted to .xls to open with MegaLogView. I'm guessing something must be lost in transation. Your max RPMs are 71? Is that correct? And MAP only varies between 21 and 65? PW is pretty consistenly 1.3ms with occasional spikes to 6.3? I'm assuming your file didn't translate correctly, or I did something wrong, because that data log is junk. No car will run like that. Do these numbers correspond with what you are seeing?

I'm with NewZed. Sounds like maybe vapor lock.

Well, after two days my speedo stopped working so I guess i am still looking for a ZX speedo unit if anyone has one.

Thanks, I'll look into that as a solution. And it makes sense because the current speedo unit will work if its turned some. Jed EDIT: NewZed, your advice worked like a charm. I flipped and slotted the 280Z speedo unit with a hand file. Took about 10 minutes and my speedometer is working again. The collective knowlege here on HybridZ never ceases to amaze.

Looking for a speedometer unit from a ZX or ZXT manual transmission (non-BW/T5). I'm having troubles getting the 280Z speedo unit in my ZX 5 speed to work properly. Apparently the ZX units were slightly offset. The color of the speedomer gear doesn't matter. I have the 17 tooth to match my diff.

There is another way to wire MSD6 - which I have been running for a couple of years now - that may appeal to people who are not using a ZX distributor. I recently tried, unsuccessfully, to trigger MS (Ver: 3.57; Code: 3.2.1) directly from the VR sensor on a 280Z distributor (non-ignitor/HEI). Didn't work. Instead of having MS drive the MSD box - as in the schematics above - you can (conceptually speaking) put the MSD in front of MS and trigger MS using the tach out. The tach out on MSD6 is a 12V square wave. You wire the MSD box for a typical VR installation: Green and Violet wires to VR sensor; White wire is not used; Heavy Black and Red wires to ground and battery, respectively; Light gauge Red wire to 12V switched; Medium gauge Black and Orange to coil negative and positive, respectively. The tach out goes to Pin 24 (DB37). Viola. I have wired my MSD system twice using this configuration and it works very well.

Yeah, the OP doesn't clearly state a question and a minute of two of the video doesn't elucidate either. Off the top of my head, if you have positive voltage on a ground circuit, check if that red battery wire isn't going to the negative post. "Postive cable not energizing?" Oy. :facepalm

Macambra, sorry to hear you are still having problems. Here is my troubleshooting suggestion: Rewire the injector circuits, i.e., swap DB32/33 & DV34/35 and see if the same injector bank fuse blows. If the problem does not follow the injectors, you can probably rule out a harness/wiring issue because the other injector bank has been working properly. If the problem does follow the injectors, you probably have a harness/wiring issue. The bad news is that if the same injector bank fuse burns after the swap, you probably have a MS hardware issue. If that's the case I would open DB5 and DB7 to isolate the flyback and PWN circuits from the injector circuits. Since your are using new high-z injectors, you can remove flyback and pwn from the circuit because you don't need them. Edit: Having trouble linking the schematic from Megamanual.com, but it's under 'hardware.htm'

If I had to do it all over again, I'd think pretty hard about a well built 283 or 289. I consider the Z a touring car, and a high revving small block V8 would retain some of the essence of the L6 as well as pretty much double the performance.

If you have the time and/or interest, there is a mild acid (muriatic?) you can buy at places like Frey Meyer which will dissolve the varnish inside your gas tank as well as allow you to remove any sediment in the process. If you search 'gas tank' and 'varnish' you'll find some threads easily enough. You do have to drop the gas tank, which is a bit of a hassle, but I was pretty astonished at how much vanish and other junk came out of my tank. In the end, instead of having a yellow tint, the inside of the tank looked brand new. It's a messy and time consuming ordeal, but I'd do it again in a minute for the peace of mind.

FYI. I just googled Rota RB (shopping) for the first pic. I have 16 x 7 and they make many different sizes (and prices).

I have these black/silver lip Rota RBs on my Z. They look even better in person than the pics. Would look AWESOME with a red car. ROTAS

Are the stock dropping resistors still part of the injector circuit?

Josh, if you think school is hard, just wait until you get into the real world. I don't mean to come across as a ****, but most science degrees have courses that are intended to thin the herd. If you want a degree is Aerospace Engineering then pull up your big boy pants and figure it out. Or quit. If you want to survive, Ctc has offered you some very good advice. Most Grateful Dead fans can pull a 2.25 in a major university. One of my advanced math classes (which by then didn't even involve numbers) was taught by some Vietnamese **** who couldn't speak conversational english. Nobody knew what was going on. Some of us banded together and pushed forward. Others left. Do, or do not. There is no 'try'. ~ Yoda.

Bummer about your MS box. At least know where the problem lies now. Hopefully, you can salvage your MS box and move forward with an install. Good luck.

Have you verified 12VDC on the injectors?

Do you have RPM when you crank?

Need one. Post, PM, or open the window and shout really, really loud. Jed

Might not be driveline related. A faulty shock or strut can manifest as high speed vibration. So can bad tires or a missing counterbalance weight that fell off. Have you tried driving at a speed where you notice the vibration and then putting the car in neutral and coasting? Might help some with the diagnosis.

The Centerforce DF looks promising. What sort of power do you have? I'm researching the same clutch question. *If you don't mind my asking*

Option 1: Install Megasquirt or similar stand alone EFI so the engine can run the way it was supposed to. Also, you'll have a modern EFI system in place for the next engine. Option 2: The cheap/easy solution is to increase your fuel pressure with a new fuel pump. The stock EFI system craps out with Stage 3 cams because it wasn't designed to deliver the necessary fuel for moderate cams. If you plan on keeping the car, and have the funds, go with Option 1.

I'm not doing well with reading comprehension today it appears.

I'm not certain that the Fidanza is thinner NewZed, but there are some posts here on HybridZ about it. Also some posts about the bolt holes being only partially drilled and needing to be fully tapped by a machinist. BluDestiny, when you did your five speed swaps, did you also swap the flywheels? Thanks for the link too. Good stuff.

Good info BluDestiny. I had read about the 6 bolts v. 9 bolts on the Fidanza and don't see that as a problem. I did read that the Fidanza was a bit (1/4"?) thinner than the stock flywheel. Did you have any clutch engagement issues using the same throwout collar? I need to do some more searching on the throwout collar issue. Since I'm currently using the late 4 speed collar, and the 240mm flywheel came stock on the 260 2+2 and '81-'83 turbo cars (?), I'm pretty sure I'll end up needing the 5 speed collar. I think I still have one. Appreciate your insight on clutch strength and driveability. I'm leaning towards overkill (stage 3), but, as you say, big cluthes can be harsh for around town stuff. On the other hand, I gather that boost is like crack. Once you get used to 10psi, you need 15psi, then 20psi, and so on. In the end, you grenade your engine. I am a little curious about your suggestion of using a 225mm clutch. Do you mean a 225mm clutch with a 240mm flywheel? Or 225mm for both flywheel and clutch?