Turbo260Z

I have a 1974 early 260z with an l28et/ t5 swap. I already have MS3 so I can tune to a range of turbos. As well I have 370cc svo injectors and a 4bolt mandrel bent downpipe. I am looking to swap the original t3 turbo as the seals are bad and is starting to blow smoke now. What I would like is a t3/t4 internal wastegate, only oil cooled, and still retains the stock 4bolt downpipe. I, for some reason, cannot find a turbo with these specs. I am open to any turbo Along those lines so it will be the easiest to re install with little fabrication. Something quality. Thanks! P.s. A link to an exact turbo would be much appreciated.

No problem thanks for looking!

Yes sir this is the one! I need it for EDIS 6 Trigger wheel

Looking for a good deal on a two row damper with one of the rows larger and the outer/front smaller. I am pay pal ready!

Thanks! Man I'm still not sure if I should sell this whole system and go with MS just not sure yet.

Hey, great post. Helped me all the way through and is what got me to actually get my engine running. Just one question. If fig. Q is the ground for the ecu or for the ignitor? For instance do I run a ground right to the harness plug end? If so what is it for because my car starts and runs fine without that ground

Hello. I just recently bought a tech 2 system and need a trigger wheel as well as the sensor bracket. Would be awesome if it was already attached to the damper. Thanks! P.s. I just got this turbo motor in and wouldn't mind anyone to offer other aftermarket parts. (Fuel rail, injectors, turbo, etc.)

Fixed it up, hard to write on here with my phone and work at the same time with this little screen haha. Thanks!

Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too. I turned my car off and none of the lights worked/turned on. I then twisted the key to the start position and it didn't click the relay like it usually would do even though that's not how I start my car. I started my car with the push button (like usual) and the ammeter was still not showing charge and all the lights were dim. I started it and shut it off a few times and the gauge finnaly showed charge and all the lights are bright and back to normal. They even turn on when the car is off. The relay still doesn't click when I twist te key though. Even when I take the battery cable off and put it back on I don't hear a click from a relay like I used too ( the same relay I think). Already changed the ignition switch. And checked all fuses. Now my problem is that the fusible link for (what I think is) the ignition/starter is getting really hot. The fusible link that is getting hot bridges the thick white wires running from the shunt. The white thick wire is also hot at the shunt too. When I disconnect the T plug at the alternator, the fusible link doesn't get hot anymore. The cap for the fusible links say BATT(for the one thick white wire that gets hot) and IGN(the one that doesn't and is white/red wire) I have a feeling my problem has something to do with my ignition not clicking anymore. Also, when I would plug the negative battery cable back on, a relay would click too. Is this the same relay? The relay clicks come from the passenger front kick panel.