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Showing results for tags 'Fusible'.
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Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too. I turned my car off and none of the lights worked/turned on. I then twisted the key to the start position and it didn't click the relay like it usually would do even though that's not how I start my car. I started my car with the push button (like usual) and the ammeter was still not showing charge and all the lights were dim. I started it and shut it off a few times and the gauge finnaly showed charge and all the lights are bright and back to normal. They even turn on when the car is off. The relay still doesn't click when I twist te key though. Even when I take the battery cable off and put it back on I don't hear a click from a relay like I used too ( the same relay I think). Already changed the ignition switch. And checked all fuses. Now my problem is that the fusible link for (what I think is) the ignition/starter is getting really hot. The fusible link that is getting hot bridges the thick white wires running from the shunt. The white thick wire is also hot at the shunt too. When I disconnect the T plug at the alternator, the fusible link doesn't get hot anymore. The cap for the fusible links say BATT(for the one thick white wire that gets hot) and IGN(the one that doesn't and is white/red wire) I have a feeling my problem has something to do with my ignition not clicking anymore. Also, when I would plug the negative battery cable back on, a relay would click too. Is this the same relay? The relay clicks come from the passenger front kick panel.
Someone pointed out to me recently that one of my fuse blocks had been cut out, and the remaining wires wire-nutted together. And the other fuse block had wires connecting the terminals, as opposed to fusible links. So, I wired in the distribution block. On my car, it's (the installation guide online, I think it's on atlanticz) showing 3 of the wires get a 50a fuse, and one gets an 80a (for a 77 model year, which mine is). So, it didn't matter which wire went where in the block as long as the wire needing the 80a had an 80a fuse. Checked out a wiring diagram online. It appears that three of the wires go to the same plug, while one of them goes to the alternator. Makes sense this would be my 80a (I tried searching this but was surprised not to find anything that explained differentiating these 4 wires. I know I saw it somewhere...). So, I checked for continuity between the alt plug and each of my 4 wires at the fuse block. Found one wire with continuity, so I stuck the 80a there, and the remaining 3 slots got the 50a's. I also put in a key switch (from Black Dragon) between the starter and the pos terminal on the battery. After I get the car back together (painting and pretty thorough budget frame-off), I'm gonna wire the stereo and fans straight to the battery with an inline fuse (and toggle switches for the eng fan and ac fan). I figure that way I won't lose my stations if I take the battery key out. And later, I'd like to get the megasquirt to control the engine fan, but I'm putting it off at the moment bc of time constraints (moving in...2 weeks?). And the fans will all get their own relay. My question is....Does all that sound right? I've been looking at this car for 6 months and I feel like Jack Torrance in The Shining. So, does all that sound logical and won't immediately burst my car into flames?