waynekarnes

i too feel for the loss of their child ... however, the person behind the wheel ran over the child, not the 4x4 ... people kill people, not guns ... like that woman here in san jose that parked her car on the freeway to chase a dog around. car gets hit by some poor unsuspecting motorist. one or two of her kids get killed. some how, it's not the woman's fault. my opinion, she may as well have taken a gun out and shot the kids as she drove, as park on the freeway to chase a dog. there's keys and locks on that nissan 4x4, the doors were closed. driver wasn't magically transported into the driver's seat. some one didn't bother to make sure it was safe to move that nissan, before backing. if you're not smart enough to check around the vehicle, before moving it, you shouldn't be behind the wheel. i live in a neighborhood with little ones. always check before backing. like i tell my 15 year old son, driving is a blast ! it's also serious, dangerous business. you are piloting a missile down the road, it can maim or kill you and others around you. you are in charge of the vehicle, you and you alone are responsible for your safety and those around you. you can't control what others do, be aware of your surrounding, and watch for those that think driving is like sitting on the couch watching tv while talking on the phone. those people wouldn't want any of us on the jury !!!

i just got home from work ... pulled the blue tarp back ... measured from the flange where the water pump attaches to the block. pump measures around 7 inches. so, at this point appears that if i get the short high volume pump, i'll gain an inch of clearance. i'm gonna place the taurus fan in there again and make sure it wasn't wishful thinking on my part. that all i need is that inch of clearance. i have a double pulley, currently only running one belt, to turn the smog pump, alt. and the water pump. will have to move at least either the alt or the smog pump, so i may be able to adjust the belt running the water pump. thanks again for the info and the web sites. a suggestion was made, that there is a tall taurus fan and a short one. are there part numbers on the those fans ( shrouds ) ? thanks again, wayne ...

so's i goes to summit, on line .. want to know if i have a clockwise or counter clockwise water pump ... ???? it's late 60's early 70's block i'm thinking, from driver's seat ... fan turns clock wise ? or does it ... they do mean from the driver's seat ... YES ??? man, have never been asked that before ... i just went in ... need a water pump for a 69 z/28 with 302 DZ block ( my brother has a DZ block for sale ) counter man hands me a pump ... no one has ever asked which direction the pump runs ... i know ... start the engine and look ... again, most references to direction are based on driver's seat ... does this hold true for this spinning water pump too ? thanks ... i should be in bed .. get up in 4 hours to go to work ... probably have a nightmare about changing water pumps over and over on the side of the freeway, all of em spinning the wrong directions, with pulleys that keep tossing the belts ...

hey thanks for getting back to me !!!! much appreciate it i must have the long pump, lots of room between the pump and the cover . i'll have to measure it. i was looking at the summit catalog, edelbrook aluminum pump, stewarts. if i have the long pump and as you and others suggested, switching to the the short pump gives me the room i need for clearance, that'll be great ... that is once i figure the pulleys out ... and come up with some sort of brackets for mounting the fan. Mike, any chance you can send pix of your set up ? thanks everyone , wayne

check around the neighborhood, any one working on a car ? stop by and visit for a bit, tell em that you are working on a car of your own. ask if they's mind if you watched or asked a quick question or opinion. someone may be able to loan you a charger or let you leave your battery at their house charging. down at the auto parts place ... maybe find a NAPA ( check the phone book ) ask for advise from counter people. not to knock checkers or auto zone employees, but most of the people at NAPA actually work on their own cars and know what they are doing. many are retired mechanics. real car people that don't mind helping guide someone new to the sport. if you live nearby, one of em might want to come by and check out your project. go to some car shows, swap meets, might check and see if a local hamburger eatery has any kind of car night ... there are 3 in san jose that i know of that do. one has a VW night, a harley night and a street rod night. one of has a rat rod night. good luck with the quest and keeping come back here for advise wayne

check around the neighborhood, any one working on a car ? stop by and visit for a bit, tell em that you are working on a car of your own. ask if they's mind if you watched or asked a quick question or opinion. someone may be able to loan you a charger or let you leave your battery at their house charging. down at the auto parts place ... maybe find a NAPA ( check the phone book ) ask for advise from counter people. not to knock checkers or auto zone employees, but most of the people at NAPA actually work on their own cars and know what they are doing. many are retired mechanics. real car people that don't mind helping guide someone new to the sport. if you live nearby, one of em might want to come by and check out your project. go to some car shows, swap meets, might check and see if a local hamburger eatery has any kind of car night ... there are 3 in san jose that i know of that do. one has a VW night, a harley night and a street rod night. one of has a rat rod night. good luck with the quest and keeping come back here for advise wayne

you've blinded me with science thanks for the physics lesson. mathmatically makes sense. take a look at this and give me another opinion i am trying to solve this dilemma ... the mechanical fan, with clutch set up, is dangerously close to the radiator and the fan sticks up above the radiator, not too safe. according to the folks at JTR, my 4 core radiator will not cool efficiently, as by the time the cool air reaches the last two cores, the air has become superheated, no longer draws the heat with it. thus, engine runs hotter. i have only been able to drive the car about a total of 25 miles ( test rides ), as i have been giving it the sarah winchester treatment ( on going modifications, combined with a lack of funds ). i do not know whether the engine overheats. but i do know that, when it broke down, the previous owner parked it for 10 years. he claims it never overheated, or ran hot. the fix was replacing a cracked head and blown head gasket. makes me think, it overheated. i thought that eliminating the dangerous mechanical fan, with a high volume electric fan would be the way to go. the 2 sd taurus fan is the fan of choice, by those who have gone before. thing is, i'm about an inch shy of having the room to install the taurus fan. a shorter water pump was suggested. i do not know if i have a long pump or a short pump. nor do i know the difference in lengths of either. my thinking was ... if i replace the pump, and it gives me room to install the 2 spd taurus fan, would it be a good idea to use a high volume water pump ? OR ... is it a waste of time with the current 4 core radiator, which holds more volume, but apparently, per JTR, does a poor job at transferring heat. in which case ... i would be better off, replacing the radiator with the two core, which has a greater air flow capability. the JTR radiator is supposed to be thinner than the 4 core radiator, but thus far, i haven't been able to find out, how much thinner. from what i've gained from your message, you think that i should keep my current radiator, provided a short, high volume water pump allows me to fit the taurus electric fan, as the higher volume of coolant moved, will increase cooling. that is the route, you suggest i should follow ? anyway any one looks at it, i am getting rid of the mechanical fan. thanks for taking the time to reply to my query !!! wayne

no one is born knowing this stuff !! there is no such thing as a dumb question, except the one that doesn't get asked. no idea what your mechanical background and knowledge is. a quick answer to your battery question is : No ! a jump from one car to another is not enough to charge a battery. it is, however, often enough to get the car started, where upon, driving that car, with a good charging system, will given enough time, charge the battery. i suggest taking the battery to your local auto supply house, have the battery tested. cold weather slows the chemical process, a battery that was good all summer will now be a dead battery, take a charge, hold it for only a day or so. i would invest in a decent battery charger, one with a 2 amp trickle charge, a 10 amp and 50 amp booster. with the issues with your car right now, using a set of jumper cables is only going to frustrate you. if money is tight, as it is for me, check around your neighborhood, most of us car people ( car nuts ), are happy to welcome a new member into the club. i was fortunate, as a youngster and at my current age of 48, i've been welcomed by many neighbors and people i met at the auto parts counter. some one may have a battery charger to loan you, or let you drop your batt off to charge. let us all know how you get along. how long you've been messing with cars, what you know, don't know, what you don't know that you don't know LOL ... no matter how much we all know, we all bounce questions off one another, pick up pointers, a jog to the memory, or a better way than the way than the way one has been doing it. keep coming back here ... there's really good people here, lots of help, a friendly shoulder to cry on and a hand to lend.

hmm, same trouble shooting as most internal combustion engines ... air, fuel, spark, in the correct ratio and timing. is it an automatic ??? is it in park ??? try neutral ... if a stick ... is the clutch pedal fully depressed ??? there may be a safety switch ... having some one else crank the engine ( in park or neutral ), parking brake on, wheels chocked. with spark plug wire pulled, hold wire to exhaust manifold, see if getting hot white spark .. not weak yellow spark ... might be easier to see after the sun sets ... if no spark, check your ignition components ... see if you have 12 volts to the coil ... if the fusable link melted away, engine may crank and not start. if still running points, they may have gotten pitted or broken, especially if car sat for a long time. if no computer controls, you might want to try hot wiring the engine under the hood. if that works, you want to look at your ignition switch or wiring ahead of your " by pass wiring ". check to see that you have fuel ... key in your pocket, batt disconnected. remove air cleaner, hold choke blade open, look into the carb directly from the top, have friend slowy step on gas pedal ( or you can move linkage at the carb ). normally, there are two nozzles in the front ( radiator side ) of the carb. when the gas pedal is depressed, you should see fuel squirt out those nozzles. if no squirt ... check the fuel guage, and the gas tank for gas ... if that is okay ... coil wire pulled from the dist. cap and grounded, remove the fuel line from the carb or at the filter, run line into a liter bottle ( glass is best, maybe a wine bottle ), keep you face away from the bottle ( safety googles ?? ). have friend crank engine over ... is fuel pouring or trickling into the bottle ??? should be pouring, not a trickle. if no fuel ... plugged line, bad fuel pump, or out of gas. if floats are stuck on the carb, could be flooding the cylinders with fuel, washing out the spark, thus no flame, no ignition. a bit of dirt, especially if the car has been sitting, could be sitting in the needle valve's path, preventing the float from seating. again, coil wire off and grounded. hold your hand ontop of the carb, choking all the air off, have friend crank the engine over ... sometimes this will dislodge dirt and debris in the carb ( actually works best when engine is running ). if you think it's flooded ...normally engine will start, cough, sputter, black smoke out exhaust. if spark and fuel ... and you can breathe ... means has air ... you need to dig deeper ... check dwell, timing, ect. number of things can be wrong .. start simple ... check for spark, fuel and air. then go for mechanical problems ... oh and if it were in my driveway, it's probably got a fiat emblem on it somewhere ... LOL good luck and welcome aboard, wayne

i agree with the hotter the radiator is, to a point ... which i'm sure you agree with ... hits a point where it can no longer absorb and transfer heat. the coolant has to remain in the radiator, long enough for heat transfer to take place. as you suggest, most water pumps may not be able to move a volume of water quicker than the proper size radiator can absorb and transfer that heat. still .... i need to know, once mounted, how far back from the pump does the radiator sit from the scarab engine set up. is there room for the taurus 2 spd fan ? i test fit the zirgo fan ... if i offset it, it clears the water pump, but i don't think it's gonna move the air i need .. no shroud. lengthwise, what's the length of a long water pump vs. a short water pump ? if i can get an inch less ( okay bring em on LOL ) it looks like i'd have clearance with my present radiator. is there an issue realigning the belts and alt mounts ?

no idea if i have a short or long pump ... i have thought about that ... changing the pump ... but then the belt won't line up to the balancer pulley and the alt. how did you get around that ? i was thinking, of using a short, high volume water pump. supposedly, drops the temps by 5 to 15 degrees. at the same time, i know the coolant has to remain in the radiator, or it doesn't get radiated. no time for the heat exchange, thus engine actually runs hotter ... man, back before i knew any thing about thermodynamic, before i knew any thing about cars. i'd just do stuff and it always seemed to work. now if i do anything like that. it always comes back to bite me ;P anyway , Mike at JTR suggested in long run, i will probably end up getting rid of the four core radiator and money spent on the pump, could have been invested in the lighter more efficient 2 core radiator, and the taurus fan, that he knows works. is there an easy way to tell a long pump from a short, without having em side by side ??? thanks ! wayne

Mike ... you want to send to my e mail ??? wkarnes#pacbell.net you know to change the # to @ thanks, wayne

Mike, thanks ... we spoke a while back. along with the pix, would you post the part number on the fan you are using ? i bought two of the fans, one from a sable and one from a taurus, different part numbers, but both the same size. the one speed fan is off set a hair from the 2 spd fan, i bought one, not enough off set to make a differnce, still bumps the plus, i checked and the one spd, has less cfm of air movement. took it back to wrecking yard, got a credit. the JTR radiator is 140 bucks, mounting kit is 60. so same price range as the griffin. JTR is about an hour north of me, so i can pick it up. the griffins, at least on line or catalogs, seem to be on the 250 range. how'd you mount your radiator ??? i am not very good at hand crafting, well i can make almost any thing, it'll just look like crap. thanks for the help !!! wayne

posted this before .. asking about using the taurus fan ... hoping some one has done it ... scarab V8 72 240z. with 4 core brass/copper radiator, no room between engine and radiator to slip in the taurus 2 spd electric fan. has anyone used the 2 core radiator that JTR sells in conjunction with the scarab position engine ? when using the JTR radiator and the scarab motor mounts, is there room for the taurus fan ? there is no way it fits with the radiator i have now. hate to spend the money on JTR radiator and mounting kit, just to find the taurus fan still doesn't fit. some one suggested, the LS1 dual fan set up, placed in front of the radiator as a pusher. haven't seen any pix of this ... thanks, wayne

i have my meyers manx dune buggy insured through ca automotive association of america .. Csaaa ... triple A ... no restrictions on mileage. my z car is also insured through triple a. i tried to tell em that it had a replacement engine ... but they didn't seem to care. remember ... it's a replacement engine ... not an engine swap ... i pay $325 for the dune buggy and $325 for the z, covers anyone i damage, but not me ... i have medical through work and there is no coverage on either car as far as theft or damage. that will change, once should i ever get my fiat, i mean z on the road ...

a roll cage is perfectly legal. you can even weld your doors shut and crawl hrough the windows if you wish ( had a friend with a 53 chrysler, did just that ). pad the crap out of it .. heads, knees, shins, elbows all find a way to bang into it ( voice of experience ). the issue with the law and the roll bar ... the cops tend to notice it and will act accordingly. kinda like waving a red flag to a bull. another issue, check with your insurance company and see if they will still cover your car ... another friend,17 years old, 1974, put a roll bar ( removed rear seat, 3 posts and roll bar behind the front seats ) in a 69 camaro. he was T-Boned, uninsured illegal alien hit him, his insurance company refused to pay, as he was driving a vehicle modified for racing or competition. would have been a tragedy had he been at fault, the insurance company would have just cut and run ... as it was, camaro was towed to wrecking yard, he lost all the money he put into it, ended up driving his mother's pinto ...

none of my business ... but my two cents ... i married the same ... emotionally abused ... not physically abused ... but, i guess, if one is abused physically, it's also emotional as well. ahh how to put this without sounding like an ass ... if she is as bad off as you suggest ... if she does not get solid mental help, not religion or any other counter culture help, solid professional mental help, she will drain you dry. you will give and she will take, she will abuse you and you won't even know she is doing it. she will come to resent you and eventually accuse you of abusing her. this isn't just my personal experience, this is typical of most people, both men and women that have been abused. i was studying to be a psychiatric technician ( couldn't afford doctor school ), doesn't make me an expert, but i knew going in, what i was getting into, just didn't think she was so bad, as is the pattern, she got worse and worse as she got older, she would not get help ... got to the point where bad weather was my fault ... everything was my fault. enough of that ... if you want to remain her emotional punching bag and be her support system, the one she calls when life cheats her, you are a great guy for being her best friend, everyone needs a best friend and a shoulder. however, getting married may be a hugh mistake ... you will no longer be her knight in shinning armour, instead you will be enveloped into all the things that are wrong in her life. you will now be the evil troll keeping her imprisoned in the dark castle dungeon, and she will spend her days dreaming of how to find another knight to come rescue her. my two cents ... continue to maintain the arm's length brother sister relationship, don't kiss her, no sex ... if you do, in her mind, if you don't marry her, you will have abused her as well ... she trusted you and you didn't make her dreams come true. sorry, no matter your age, i have to say, please don't marry her ...

thanks for thinking of me, regarding the rust ... car is not prepped for paint .. is still at least 90% the crappy, quicky paint job, thrown on it back around 1975. i asked of i need worry about the rust, as i know the bondo absorbs water and primer is porous to water. painter says, no worries, is same primer/ sealer, with rust preventatives that mercedes uses at the factory. friend removed all emblems ( shaved the chrome ), removed that, after market anti-door ding rubber strip, removed the outside mirrors, used a mig and welded all the holes shut, used metal ( lead ??? ) to finish the basic body work, then bondo to smooth it. cut and welded in tabco panels ( all of them had to be modified, none of them were correct ), lower front fenders, and dog legs. all of it sprayed with the mercedes primer/sealer. my friend trial fit the the door kit i bought from SUMMIT ... told me back when the z was in the body shop, would be a piece of cake to do. now that the car is home, i see that, the mechanics of it, will be really easy to do. the hardest part, as i see it now, will be running the wiring for the remote sensors and the alarm portion of the kit. the door kit has been moved down a few notches on my to do list ... i'm a bit depressed/disappointed over the whole thing ... thinking this was a done deal, i spent what was left of my project money on food and stuff like that ( lights, garbage bill, water ). plus, i bought my son an 88 fiero GT. he's 15, if he holds his 3.6 grade average, he gets it when he's 17. he figures, he's getting my z, anyway, so there's no need to buy one for him... LOL ...

accident ... drunk runs into a car ... claims he was doing 45 mph at time of accident ... police pulled the on board computer ... check it ... computer shows he was doing 75 at time of impact. was allowed as evidence, convicted and jail time. was not ruled as an illegal search, or invasion of privacy. the OB III is supposed to be able to transmit to local authorities ... your speed, location, starting point of trip when car was started, how long engine has been running, how many miles since engine was last started. supposedly, it will be against federal law to tamper or otherwise modify the OB III. maybe one could make a radio frequency jammer ??? i think it was pop mech had an article on this ... cities could set up receivers, similar to the red light cameras ... OB III equipped car goes by ... speed limit 35, car doing 42 ... electronic signature of OB III ... records show who is registered to ... guess what .... everyday on way to work, driver hits 5 of these receivers ... 5 tickets a day arrive in the mail. what a treat ... it's all about controlling and making money off the working stiffs ...

opps !!! forgot to say i was paying for his gas and camping fees for his motor home, when goes on vacation dirt bike riding, and materials ... feather fill epoxy primer ... block sanded ... another coat of same primer .... block sanded ... third coat of primer .... block sanded ... 5 coats of color ... all hand block sanded, between coats ... color sanded ... 5 coats of clear ... all color sanded between coats. i've seen his work, people ship cars across the country ( some brand new cars ) to have this guy paint em. he does get an average of 5 grand for a basic scrub and paint color change. he got 8 grand to paint a ferriari i can't spell it ... you know, one of those fancy fiats ... body work and a 5 thousand dollar paint job for $1500 ... i was happy to pay it !!!!

bought mine from summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/ ... combined alarm and door release. my buddy has already removed and welded a plate over where the original door handles were. you could easily use the new automotive glue, and glue a plate over the hole, and bondo it over. if welding, be very careful, the metal is thin and wants to oil can warp the door ( how the bottom of the old style old can, the one you would use to apply a couple drops of oil out the tip of the tube ... bonk a bonk ). heat sink the area big time. also, protect the glass with a heavy welding blanket .. spatter will ruin the glass. the kit from summit comes with most of the wiring and the solenoids, the "computer" wireless communications, 2 remotes, metal door poppers. the solenoid is on a plate ... 4 holes in the plate ... when the interior door handle is removed ... the factory rod drops down to the bottom of the door. the solenoid has a metal bar with a hole in it, the factory rod has a hole on the end of it. with the plate, you can use that same automotive glue, glue the late to the inside of the bottom of the door ( it will hold ). connect the bar in the solenoid and rod together, then wire it up. or ... there are 4 holes on the plate ... two of them line up with two holes, where the factory interior handle was ... drill two more holes and mount the plate sideways, using bolts, this too reaches the factory rod that is uses to open the door. the kit includes interior switches to electrically open the doors, so the interior handles go away ... for peace of mind in the event of a power failure ... by disconnecting the interior locking mechanism, the rod that sticks up through the door, to lock and unlock the door from the inside, can easily be adapted, connecting it to the door release mechanism within the doors, thus allowing one to pull up on that rod ( as if unlocking the door ), and open the doors. open the hatch, crawl in, pull up on the door lock knob, opens the door. that advise was given here by some one else a few months back. sorry i have no pictures, mine is not finished ... short version ... friend of friend, body shop, free body work ( my friend trading labor for use of his friend's shop ). his friend gets minimum of $5000 for a scrub and paint ( car is perfect, customer wants his mercedes or rolls royce a custom color ), agreed to paint my z for $1500 .. cost of materials only .. complete change of color ... will look like factory paint inside and out, no way to tell what original color was. shop is in santa cruz ca. 40 miles from home. 80 mile round trip every other night after work for my friend ( i am not invited to play ...insurance reasons and i'd be in the way ). most of rust repaired, custom metal work to fix hidden rust ( this is ca. z ...one of those supposedly 95% rust free z cars ... don't believe it !!! ), some custom body work ... 4 months so far ... silent partners in body shop ( his friend's parents ), decide to sell shop. new owner ( friend of previous owner ) says all project cars out of here. new owner is friend of my friend, agrees my z can stay until all body work is completed, but no paint job. rain, bad weather, overtime at work, 3 weeks my friend doesn't make it to shop. calls, all is well, no worries with new owner, can stay until finished. last week, 5:30 am, go to get morning paper, z is in my driveway, soaking wet, no hood, windows down, no quarter glass, interior gutted, rained that night. tow truck must have dropped it off after midnight, some time after i went to bed. my friend knew nothing, his friend knew nothing. my friend is hesitant to work in my driveway, without proper tools, has more or less washed his hands of it ... he feels terrible about what happened. not his fault. he was trying to help me out, as was his friend. about 50 to 75 % of the body work has been completed. my cash outlay was only $600. there is roughly 1500 to 2 grand worth of body work already done on the car ( had i paid shop rates ). my friend ROCKS !!! i had no money to start the body and paint ... as i said, my friend was trying to help me out. so, now i have a gutted, half finished, stripped z car under a blue tarp in my driveway ... no money to finish it. shed no tears .. i'm not whining or complaining ... just letting you know, it's not finished ... YET !!!

i have a 72 240z, with the scarab kit. engine sits forward and high. gives great ground clearance, and the distributor ( chevy 350 ) clears the hood latching mechanism. lots of room for header to frame clearance, esay to change the spark plugs, most things are accessable. issues ... engine sits forward and high ... hard to find proper manifold air cleaner to clear the hood. engine sits forward ... i want to convert to an electric ( taurus fan ) ... there is no room for that ... this conversion was done back in 77, still running the original 4 core radiator that scarab recommended, i think it's from a camaro ... i want the electric fan, as the stock water pump, and clutch fan set up, place that clutch set up about an inch off the radiator,and there is no way to shield the fan. the fan sticks up about an inch above the radiator. Mike at JTR, suggests with a new radiator ( JTR makes an excellent radiator ) which should give me more clearance .. enable me to run the taurus fan set up. if i was doing a swap today ... LS1 with TPI ... 6 speed trans ... 2 core JTR radiator, taurus electric fan, using the JTR kit ... why not change mine ??? ... it's a scarab ... granted a build it at home scarab kit, but ... it's still a scarab, the grand daddy of V8 z swaps ... and i don't have any money left ... all my good deals with my connections seem to fizzle out ... ends up costing more than if i'd bought retail to begin with ... LOL OUCH !!!

from brokenbolt's website ... hope this helps ... Big rear brake conversion 240sx 4 x 4 1/2 lugs 79-81 280zx master 15/16 89-98 240sx calipers and hangers 84-85 300zx rear rotors 4x4 1/2 lug pattern 86-80 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut and welded with correct offset. rear axles must be removed to install brackets make brake cable extenders Small rear brake conversion 79-81 280zx master 15/16 82-53 280zx rear calipers and hangers 82-83 280zx rear rotors 86-89 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets ... cut and welded with correct off set OR 80-84 nissan 810, maxima sedan rear brackets that have floating dust shield rear axle must be removed to install bracket Big rear brake conversion 280zx 79-81 280zx master 15/16 82-83 280zx calipers and hangers 84-85 300zx rear rotors 4 x 4 1/2 lugs 86-89 FWD maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets ... bored cut and welded with correct off set bone stock small rear brake conversion Maxima 4x4 1/2 lugs 79-81 280zx master 15/16 79-81 280zx rear calipers and hangers 79-81 280zx rotors 4x4 1/2 lugs 80-84 810, maxima sedan rear brackets that have screw on dust shields rear axles must be pulled on all to install brackets

i copied this from craigslist ... november 6th 7 pm corner of lawrence expressway and homestead road in santa clara ca. take 280 to lawerence exp ... go north to homestead, make a right and a quick left into parking lot or take 101 to lawrence exp ... go south to homestead, make a left and a quick left into parking lot ... from what i hear this is a no host get together ... buy your own pizza, there's a mc donalds and a jack in the box, along with chinese food, mexican, ect. even a coffee shop and a grocery store. casual get together ... bring the kids, your partner, neighbor ??? bring what ever kind of datsun you own ... or even the first couple years of nissans, that had both badges one em but, remember it's a datsun get together Pizza and Pipes Get Together Santa Clara, CA Saturday Nov 6th! Please show up at or around 7pm. 3581 Homestead Road - Santa Clara, CA 95051 more info. for adress. fiveoneoh.com or dimequarterly. thanks for looking.

was out as the same time as Mr. Terrific. these were around a bit after Get Smart, went off the air. at first i thought i read, Last American Hero ... stock car racer Jr. Johnson. i had a 65 chevelle SS at the time that movie came out. they used a 64 in the movie. channeled the body down on the frame ( lowered the body, kept the frame same height ), radiused the wheel wells. great big ...HUGH ... meats on it. must of had 4 inch diameter exhaust pipes on it ... mean looking machine ... i wanted to do that to my 65. already turned consistant 12.49 on the quarter ( full street trim -- stereo, dual mufflers with 3 1/2 inch diameter pipes from the header collectors to the rear bumper, spare in the trunk, ect. ) figured look would go good with the car's performance ... suspension was set up for autocross/road racing. never did it. ended up trading the 65 for a 31 chevy pick up. opps, we weren't talking cars were we ... Mr. Terrific and a cartoon ... Fearless Fly ... those were the days ... a hero was a hero ...