waynekarnes

Mike, join the club !!! i work for sbc, phoneman repairman, climbing poles all that stuff, couple months back, made a right turn from residential onto main street, in fully loaded down dodge van, with ladders on the rack. i'm about 50 feet out, when i see deputy sherriff in camaro coming up on me like a bat out of hell, about 1/2 a block behind me, all of his lights on ( has roof light bar ),siren blaring, headlights flashing. i pull over to let him go by. he jerks the wheel and skids in behind me. i'm thinking some snotty neighbor ( we are in the land of 5 million dollar homes ) called cops and said i was a burglar ( not to me, but it has happened to =guys i work with ). comes to passenger door, lic and reg he says. i ask him why he pulled me over. took about 12 minutes before i got out of him that the right rear broke loose. i told him if it did, wasn't on purpose, must a been dirt or water ... he says, yeah right ... for not knowing what you were doing you were doing it pretty good. he wanted to write me for exibihition of speed. a major ticket ... told me he did me a favor, wrote for unsafe start. on the ticket, he lied about my speed, the posted speed, that i was in a school zone ( school zone is 1/8 mile away ). after i signed it, he told me he expected this from all the young punks ( he's about 28 ), but not from an old fart like me ( i'm 48 ), shoved the ticket at me, laughed and walked back to his camaro. a few police friends of mine called it a C.S. ticket ... but with all the crap he put on there, school zone ect. no way to beat it ... i took traffic school. keeps it off my record. oh, my friends also told me, that since the taliban christians have taken over the us government... that the self rightous police officers are getting out of control, they frighten the good cops. i recommend traffic school if you can.

thanks, glad you enjoyed the read ! figure i best not attempt to spam him ( he has my email address ) ... though i was tempted to go to several websites and sign him up for everything that asked for an e address ... figure if he does send the bougus c check, i'll send back the overage amount in the form of those rolls of toilet paper that look like hundred dollar bills. that should make his day, when he takes em to the bank of nigeria. DavyZ, try some ice on those loins ... may help with the swelling wayne

which engine are you swapping into the zx ? i am of the impression that tachs run off the distributor. exception of course, the distributorless engines. though i would think the tach would still be ran off the ignition. my 58 vette has a gear set up off the generator that spins a cable that runs the tach. later vettes of that era, went to a cable drive off the dist. as when the belt slips, the reading at the tach are extremely in accurate. i don't know of any post 50's car that uses a tach drive off the alt/gen. are you using an engine where the alternator is gear driven ??? in which case, it would be accurate, but wouldn't that preclude you from using the stock nissan zx alternator ? i'd go with the info that Mike and Greg at JTR gave you ...

dearest ray, it has come to my attention that you are being interested in my product. this brings me and my family the greatest of joy. it will be a pleasure to know that my item is going to delight and thrill another. it has been in our possesion for many a year, and we would like to see it go to someone who has the ability to appreciate and respect the honor and pride we cherish for this dilligentable treasure from the Gm family of pontiac the americana legandary trans am. i would be most honored and humbled to be presented with the cashier's check, i find them to be my favorite conveance of funds, they are so easily converted in to the currency of my country. for both of our mutual pleasures and esctacy, i am looking forward to this transaction, i have written to my president and advise him and his seceratary of state. i know that they are aquiver with as much orgasmic excitement as we are here. the celebration of our trade will be of stupendence eventesness, the neighbors will be invited to the triumphant event. it will be a feast for the mind and body, wine, song and dance will prevade the streets for kilometers in all directions, the flight of mind and fancy will make the sun and moon envious, the heavens will send angels to see what great happiness has washed over the land of my people and their ancestors. please send the amount of $32,000 to me at the following address Kanga Tech 124 SBC 5285 Doyle Rd San Jose California, USA 95129 i must tell you, this is one of the brightest days of my life. i can not believe my good fortune that in the cosmic universe, we have met and will soon be trading capital for product, it makes my loins ache for climax . ray vince wrote: > > I am a sales consultant, i help individuals and companies to source > and procure refurbish and (ads). I get paid on commission. > Your (ads) suits the need of my client and i enquire to know if the > item is still available for sale and the final price you are > willing to sell the (ads). My client will effect payment as soon as > i hear from you and the rate is affordable. Payment will be via a > in certified cashier's check. Please furnish me with the above > required information and provide your name, contact address and > phone number for better communication. > Yours sincerely, >

that's all VW ... running a big bore kit ... possibly in the 2200cc range and a big turbo .. i'm sure the engine and trans are after market ... there is so much after market speed equipment for the bug, it'd make your head spin. of sourse, like the hybrid z , much of if has to be hand crafted, modified, lovingly beat with a hammer to fit. and i can really appreciate the effort that goes into making things work. not everything comes out of a box, ready to bolt on. i know a guy that is running a turbo bug, vw powered ( highly modified after market block, heads, ect. ) that runs in the nines on the 1/4 mi, and he drives it to vw meets. i think he lives in stockton, saw him last year at kelly park here in san jose ca. he has the bug, his dad has a 10 second dune buggy, they both drove down from stockton. this sunday is the kelly park meet, i should see them there. though the kelly meet is mostly for stock restored vw's, the general audience crowd pleasers are usually the modified cars. last year there more than one embarressed 5.0 mustang or camaro driver around the park, that chose to show off their muscle to the bug.

30 million cars now record drivers' behavior The Christian Science Monitor | December 28, 2004 By Eric C. Evarts It was only a matter of time. For several years, electronic devices in cars have monitored acceleration and braking to save fuel and improve safety. Now, they're saving some of that data to give automakers and police a better idea of how you drive. So far most of the devices record the last five seconds of readings before a crash, for example, a little like flight-data recorders in airplanes. The information has proven extremely useful to auto designers and accident investigators. It's also being used to prosecute drivers. "The problem is most people don't realize these devices are in their vehicle," says Eric Skrum, spokesman for the National Motorists Association in Madison, Wis. "That information can be used against you, and there's no sort of regulation about who owns that information." Already, drivers have had data from their own cars used to convict them. Last month, Danny Hopkins of New York was sentenced to 5 to 15 years in prison for killing Lindsay Kyle after the black box in his Cadillac CTS indicated the car was going 106 miles per hour five seconds before the crash. Investigators originally thought the car was going only 65 to 70 miles per hour. In St. Louis, Clifton McIntire of Phippsburg, Me., pleaded guilty to manslaughter last month after the black box in his GMC pickup revealed that he was going 85 miles an hour before he slammed into the back of a Toyota. Today an estimated 30 million cars contain these "black boxes" — they're actually silver — known as event data recorders (EDRs). Most record simple data such as whether airbags deployed or if passengers wore seatbelts. But most cars from General Motors and Ford, as well as some Toyotas and Hondas, track even more information, including vehicle and engine speed, and whether the driver was accelerating or braking. Automakers say they want this information to help improve safety equipment. "The main purpose of the EDR is to get data after a crash to help us understand how the airbags worked," says Alan Adler, manager of product-safety communications at General Motors in Warren, Mich. "The privacy of our customers is very important to us, but [the device] doesn't record anything that isn't true." Crash investigations Without EDRs, investigators frequently don't have enough data to pinpoint the cause of an accident, says Joe Osterman, director of the Office of Highway Safety at the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) in Washington. That was the case when an elderly man killed 20 people when his Buick plowed into a farmers market in Santa Monica, Calif. in 2000. The driver said he was braking. Witnesses and investigators said he was accelerating. While what exactly happened in the moments before the tragedy remains a mystery, the NTSB went on record afterward saying EDRs should be mandatory in all cars sold in the United States. The NTSB, however, doesn't have the authority to mandate black boxes. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration does. It proposes that the recorders become standard equipment starting in 2009 models, retain the last eight seconds of data before a crash, and include added data from electronic stability control and antilock braking systems. Civil libertarians worry that such data will be used more broadly in the future. "This is another example of where technology has outstripped the law and certain assumptions of how the world works," says Jay Stanley, director of communications for the Technology and Liberty Project at the American Civil Liberties Union in New York. Some safety experts also worry about the wrong people using the data. While Mr. Osterman of the NTSB favors police investigators using black-box data in criminal investigations, he worries that private experts hired in civil litigation may have biases and could take the data at face value instead of cross-checking it. "The data can be misleading if you're not a seasoned accident reconstructionist," adds Bob Kreeb, an engineer at Booz Allen Hamilton in Washington who chaired a committee of the Society of Automotive Engineers to set standards for the data gathered from black boxes. "So it needs to be interpreted and validated." Installing black boxes with five seconds worth of memory was as simple as adding a memory chip to existing computer systems in cars. Increasing the memory to several months' worth of data would not be difficult at all, Mr. Stanley says. "If GM decided tomorrow to track three months of data instead of five seconds, there's nothing that would make them have to tell anybody," he adds. Tracking the teens In fact, Davis Instruments of Hayward, Calif., sells a black box called CarChip that will record throttle position and engine parameters for up to 300 hours of driving. Parents can use it to monitor their teenagers' driving habits, for example. Progressive, an auto-insurance company, is running a pilot program with 5,000 drivers in Minnesota using a device similar to CarChip. It records up to six months of driving data, including vehicle mileage, time of day, and speed. The program, called TripSense, lets drivers choose whether to hand over data from their recorders to the insurer. Based on their habits behind the wheel, they can get discounts on their premiums of 5 to 25%. But once any data is collected, some worry that it might be subpoenaed. If a police officer pulls you over while you're not speeding, "will your EDR tell him that five miles or five days earlier you were?" asked AutoWeek magazine's Bob Gritzinger in a November article. Recorder data may also present problems for drivers with automobile warranties. Some wonder if vehicle manufacturers are using safety data to void warranties. Some people in Internet chat rooms have alleged Mitsubishi is doing just that to those who drive its racy Evolution VIII in amateur weekend races. Even if not true, the existence of such stories shows people's concerns about this kind of technology, says Stanley. "If it's not controlled, it allows powerful institutions to increase their control over ordinary individuals," he says. For example: When AutoWeek conducted handling tests on a mundane Chevy Malibu Maxx hatchback earlier this year, the recorder automatically alerted GM OnStar officials, who called the car to make sure the driver was OK after a particularly severe cornering maneuver. The driver was, but later said he resented the intrusion.

i copied this a while back, when i was considering the swap i have swapped the toyota calipers .. am using the original 1972 master cylinder, did not move to the larger master ... have no problems ... any way here's some old posts ... hope this doesn't just add to the confusion ... jgkurz Donating Member Joined: Oct 15, 2002 Posts: 340 Location: Portland, Oregon Status: Offline Posted: Jun 15, 2004 - 09:49 PM OK folks I give up. I know when I've been beat. I refuse to put anymore time or money into this futile upgrade. So far it has cost me 85.00 for a new 15/16 master cylinder, 49.00 for the Motive Produts Power Bleeder and 18.00 for my wasted Ate Blue brake fluid. I've done everything except replace the booster and I don't think the 15/16 is worth the trouble if that's what I have to do. I will be putting my 7/8 MC back on. The 15/16 upgrade on a 280z without the 280ZX booster does NOT work. Does anyone want to buy a slightly used 15/16 MC and a Motive Produts Power Bleeder? I won't be needing them. Seriously, I'm done. _________________ - John 77 280Z 3.0L L28ET 12.82 @ 114.97 mph Pop N Wood Member Joined: Mar 18, 2002 Posts: 1326 Status: Offline Posted: Jun 16, 2004 - 04:54 AM I hate to say it but you could have a bad MC. If you are bottoming out the MC then it is not the rod, and it sounds like you should have the bleed process down by now. The only other possibility is a leaky fitting, but I assume you checked all connections for leaking fluid. Also the rod I was talking about goes between the booster and MC. DaleMX Donating Member Joined: Mar 20, 2004 Posts: 206 Location: Atlanta, Ga. Status: Offline Posted: Jun 16, 2004 - 09:11 AM I could be wrong, but I think that too much rod will cause this too. If the M/C cannot return to the home position then it wont operate properly and you wont be able to bleed it correctly. This is what I think is wrong with mine, but I wont know until the monsoon season gives me a good dry break. Dale _________________ 78 280Z gramercyjam Member Joined: May 20, 2002 Posts: 403 Location: San Antonio, TX Status: Offline Posted: Jun 16, 2004 - 09:18 AM A couple things to check - I didn't see them mentioned so I will - Bleeders on MC good an tight? I've had problems with some rebuilds where the bleeders couldn't be torqued down enough to seal and I couldn't get a good bleed. Proportioning valve, all the way out (counter clockwise)? I don't know if you wilwood is like mine, but with mine when the adjuster is all the way in, the pedal feels soft and goes down a lot further than when it is all the way out. _________________ John B 73 FP 240Z 1900 Lb, L24, E31, Quarter Master/Tilton , 3X2 Weber 45's, 4.44 R190, ZX 5 Speed, 16X10 slicks, Coilovers, etc. Owen Hybridz God Father Joined: Feb 08, 2000 Posts: 2005 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 16, 2004 - 09:50 AM On the pressure bleeder...I used a similar product, DIY. A garden sprayer (plastic bottle with a hand pump and a hose to spray the liquid-used for spraying pesticides on roses, I guess). A master cyl. cap with a brass fitting, and some clear hose. Total cost was $12. The universal caps sound interesting tho. maybe I'll get one to adapt to my system so that I can do other cars like the Motive does. Owen _________________ http://v8zcar.com fastzcars Member Joined: Sep 06, 2001 Posts: 252 Location: San Gabriel,CA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 16, 2004 - 10:46 PM JG, I'm sorry to hear that the power bleeder didn't cure your problem. But I have to concure with Pop N Wood. You probably have a bad M/C. Have you taken apart the M/C. It's not that hard to do. There are only 4 internal parts. I found this out when I was going through the same ordeal. Take a day or 2 off from the project. to clear your mind. I've had to do this quite a few times myself just to keep me from running my car off a cliff. Don't give up. _________________ Keep the rubber side down. TOMAHAWKZ New Member Joined: Jul 01, 2003 Posts: 17 Location: QUEEN CREEK ARIZONA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 01:19 AM John this might sound wierd but the rod may be too long. If the m/c pushrod does not allow the piston in the m/c to come all the way back some of the passages will not be uncovered allowing the fluid to get behind the seal that builds the pressure when the pedal is depressed. for some good info on brake set up try the wilwood brakes or tilton web sites. they have some good info on proportioning valves also. Alot of people have them when they dont need them others have them and dont know how to adjust them. let us know what you find.. Tomahawk Z 77 280z with a rebody and reverse mount wilwood mastercylinders....... jgkurz Donating Member Joined: Oct 15, 2002 Posts: 340 Location: Portland, Oregon Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 12:49 PM Everyone, Thank you for the advice and encouragement. I have tried all the recommendations in this thread without success. What's strange is this is the same experience I had on my 78z years ago. I just could not get any pedal pressure built up. The car was stolen before I could resolve the problem. I chalked the problem up to a bad master cylinder but could never prove it. That's one of the reasons I was willing to try the 15/16 MC on my current 77z. The only fact vs opinion based fix I know of is to put a ZX booster on my 77 with the 15/16 MC. Since I don't feel like going through the trouble so I'm going to give the 7/8 MC a try. For some reason the 240z folks don't have a problem with the 15/16 MC. So far no one has come forward that has a 15/16 on a 77 or 78 280z without the ZX booster. I'll keep everyone posted with my progress. P.S. I'll probably keep the Power Bleeder. Regarding the M/C Shucks will let me swap the slightly used 15/16 for a new 7/8. Later, _________________ - John 77 280Z 3.0L L28ET 12.82 @ 114.97 mph Last edited by jgkurz on Jun 17, 2004 - 02:43 PM; edited 1 time in total Phantom Donating Member Joined: Feb 26, 2002 Posts: 1662 Location: Arlington, TX Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 02:17 PM This has been a very interesting thread - especially since I'm about to do a brake upgrade, like what Z-ya has, on my '77 280Z. I had already decided to forego the proportioning valve until after the conversion to see what the balance was like first. I think I'll also wait on the 15/16" MC too and just stick with the 7/8 for now. _________________ '77 280Z with LS1/T56, 311 rwhp, 326 rwtq, 12.9@110 http://www.zcar.com/month/2003/08/ wheelman Donating Member Joined: Sep 26, 2003 Posts: 225 Location: Southeastern Washington State Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 02:51 PM I'm glad I read this thread as well. I was also going to do an "upgrade" to a 15/16 MC along with the Toyota caliper swap but now I'm going to stick with the 7/8 MC and the stock 7" booster. I will use a proportioning valve because I'm eventually going to put disks on the rear. Wheelman _________________ 73 240Z, LT1, T-5 jmortensen Donating Member Joined: Jul 07, 2003 Posts: 1818 Location: Seattle, WA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 04:00 PM This installation should not be a problem. I can't figure out what has gone wrong here, but this is a fairly simple operation. My only thoughts on why it isn't working are: 1. The disc inside the booster that sits between the back of the master and the pin fell out (usually falls into the booster). 2. The rod is the wrong length. 3. The master is bad. I wouldn't be afraid to do this swap, I'm sure it has been done hundreds of times by lots of different people sucessfully (including me). The drum master has a check valve built in for the rear brakes IIRC. If you put rear discs on a drum master, then the rear could potentially drag, just a bit, all the time. I think I read somewhere that someone had removed the check valve, but I can't remember where or who said that. _________________ Autox and track day '70 Z jgkurz Donating Member Joined: Oct 15, 2002 Posts: 340 Location: Portland, Oregon Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 04:59 PM jmortensen wrote: The drum master has a check valve built in for the rear brakes IIRC. If you put rear discs on a drum master, then the rear could potentially drag, just a bit, all the time. I think I read somewhere that someone had removed the check valve, but I can't remember where or who said that. jmortensen, I appreciate your thoughts. The above comment concerns me a great deal. I definatley don't want my brakes to drag even a tiny bit. I will be trying the 7/8 MC when I get a chance to work on the car next week. As I understand it, the check valve in question is for protection against significant pressure (as much as 1000psi) coming back into the M/C once the brakes are released. I'm not sure how this could lead to brakes draging unless the M/C was failing. In my situation I believe 1) the M/C has been bled as good as it possibly can be. 2) The M/C is functioning correctly (for a 1980 280ZX) because I've tried this upgrade with three seperate 15/16 M/C's with the same results and 3) I've adjusted the rod and tested almost infinitely, again without success. In my opinion the next step would be to try 1980 280ZX booster which I will not be doing. For some reason the 240z guys seem to have no problem with this upgrade. _________________ - John 77 280Z 3.0L L28ET 12.82 @ 114.97 mph jmortensen Donating Member Joined: Jul 07, 2003 Posts: 1818 Location: Seattle, WA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 05:38 PM Quote: 1. The disc inside the booster that sits between the back of the master and the pin fell out (usually falls into the booster). What about that one, have you checked for that? You could put on 100 masters and none will work if that disc isn't in there. I think it's called a "reaction disc". My understanding of the check valve is limited for sure (a while back I talked at great length about how I thought the drums were affected by wheel cylinder size on the IZCC list and was totally wrong so don't believe everything I say when it comes to drums), but I believe it holds a bit of pressure in the wheel cylinders to keep the seals against the bores. I also believe that this valve is in the m/c itself. _________________ Autox and track day '70 Z Phantom Donating Member Joined: Feb 26, 2002 Posts: 1662 Location: Arlington, TX Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 06:11 PM FWIW - I did the Toyota 4x4 upgrade on my front brakes (drums on the rear) and kept the 7/8" MC. Toyo brakes work great but you may want the proportioning vavle because now the rears don't do much, if anything. It may be a different problem than just the upgrade becuase I've been running it for years and it initially seemed OK but I'm not going to worry about it because of the big upgrade all around coning this summer. ALSO - I pulled out my '77 280Z Factory Service Manual and checked out the 7/8" Master cylinder - BOTH front and rear lines have check valves in them. Hope that helps a bit. _________________ '77 280Z with LS1/T56, 311 rwhp, 326 rwtq, 12.9@110 http://www.zcar.com/month/2003/08/ TOMAHAWKZ New Member Joined: Jul 01, 2003 Posts: 17 Location: QUEEN CREEK ARIZONA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 07:02 PM The little check valve you are all talking about is a residual pressure valve. They are installed to keep the fluid in the lines instead of making its way back to the master cylinder this prevents you from having to double pump the pedal to build pressure. They are usually installed in both rear drum and rear disk brake set ups but the amount of pressure they keep in the lines is different. I believe the drum brakes use a 10 lb valve and the disk set ups use a 2 lb vlv. If you convert to disk in the rear and dont change the residual pressure your brakes will drag for sure causing 2 things excessive premature wear of the pads and disks and they will get hot and we all know what happes when they get hot they dont work!! They are also used when you mount a master cylinder below the height of the calipers, like on some old hot rods where the stickum below the floor keeps the fluid in the lines. I assume they are installed in one of the valves in the engine compt. but Idid not look for mine as I removed all the stock brake equipment and went with aftermarket stuff srgunz Junior Member Joined: Aug 15, 2001 Posts: 36 Location: Wisconsin, USA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 17, 2004 - 08:39 PM When you put the old cylinder back on, make sure you put the rod adjustment back to where it was. Remember to carefully measure both cylinders like I said in my other reply. If they do measure the same, the rod stay's at its origional length. I went thru similar problem. It was the reaction disc falling out of place. If one plays with the rod at all, the disc falls to bottom of cannister. When it does you will NEVER get any pressure. You will need to get the booster on the work bench and put disc back. See your FSM. _________________ Steve 72 240: L28,mikunis,minilites,5spd.,MSD, headers,koni's,HKSflywheel,4:11lsd Phantom Donating Member Joined: Feb 26, 2002 Posts: 1662 Location: Arlington, TX Status: Offline Posted: Jun 18, 2004 - 05:10 AM TOMAHAWKZ - So I could just replace the rear drum 10 lb. spring with a front disk 2 lb spring and install disk brakes on the rear, right? That way I'm not having to change out the entire MC for one that pushes about 12% more oil? _________________ '77 280Z with LS1/T56, 311 rwhp, 326 rwtq, 12.9@110 http://www.zcar.com/month/2003/08/ jgkurz Donating Member Joined: Oct 15, 2002 Posts: 340 Location: Portland, Oregon Status: Offline Posted: Jun 18, 2004 - 06:59 AM srgunz wrote: It was the reaction disc falling out of place. If one plays with the rod at all, the disc falls to bottom of cannister. When it does you will NEVER get any pressure. You will need to get the booster on the work bench and put disc back. See your FSM. jmortensen and srgunz, I have never heard of a "reaction disk" until this thread. I looked at my 77 Service Manual and it does have a small illustration, but that's about it. If a missing reaction disk could cause my brakes to never pump up then this could be the problem. Is there an easy way to determine if the disk has dropped into the booster? My 15/16 M/C is still installed and fully bled so I could unbolt the M/C and pull it back. Is the "reaction" disk the piston like part that is secured to the back side of the rod? After pulling out the rod and adjusting, I have no problem re-seating the piston back into the booster. _________________ - John 77 280Z 3.0L L28ET 12.82 @ 114.97 mph jmortensen Donating Member Joined: Jul 07, 2003 Posts: 1818 Location: Seattle, WA Status: Offline Posted: Jun 18, 2004 - 08:24 AM Well it looks like Steve has actually dealt with this before, and I've just heard of it, but when I've heard of it the advice was unbolt the master, pull it off the booster, and look in there. If you see the disk put it back in place and reattach the master... _________________ Autox and track day '70 Z

you're welcome ! i think you are correct ... if the 14's fit ... 15's oughta work. good luck with your project keep the posts and questions coming ... while back, i hestitated to post what i thought might be a lame question ... i got about 15 replies and others saying that they had the same question .. go figure ... blew me away ... i thought i was the only one ... no such thing as a stupid question .. no one was born knowing this stuff

my 14 inch rewinds fit over the toyota 4x4 calipers ... i am using the older four runners, not the larger S-13 ( ? ). now, the stock 14 inch metal z wheel fit over the calipers, as do the zx 6 spoke wheels ... but i was advised that some of the 15 inch datsun/nissan wheels would require a slight bit of custom grinding on one edge of the caliper for clearance. sorry wasn't more help ...

my mistake ... 14 and 15's only .. a work buddy was telling me he had heard a rumor of 16 inch rewinds being made some where ... he's one of the honda tuners ... different wheels, tires, ect on his honda and accura about every 3 months ... i got carried away ... thought they were already available Gabriel has 14 and 15 inch wheels ... looks like i jumped the gun on the 16 inch rewinds.

doesn't gabriel on the list here sell those .. i believe i bought mine from him a while back ... saved a bunch of money, he shipped em to me, were at my house 2 days later ... last i heard i thought he was offering the 14, 15 and i thought a 16 inch konig rewind ...

i have great respect for John D. but, as he had difficulties finding anyone that would sell him a drive train, he settled for that crappy citroen engine. we used to get at one towed into the texaco station i was working at, about every other week. that engine and electrical issues ... i remember goof balls painting their's ... most of em liked red and yellow. one guy in campbell had his polished to a high luster ... lived in the same apt complex as my girlfriend at the time. every couple months, it'd be leaving the parking lot on the back of a flatbed tow truck. that said, the car still looks fresh 30 some years later ... and yes, i wanted one when they 1st came out ... but i had already put a deposit down on an Avanti II. after helping the mechanic at the texaco work on em, the desire to own a Delorean motor car wained ... nope didn't buy the Avanti II, there was a waiting list, and i moved on ... i was on the phone to canada, with Malcom Bricklin ... Thanks John, for the GTO and all the muscle cars that followed !!! sorry that the big auto companies wouldn't let you build the car that you wanted to, in the Delorean Motor Car ... it would have been a screamer with a small block chevy in it. if there is a heaven, i hope you're ripping up the streets in some hot rod and not resting in peace ...

this is the number i reached Greg at ... (925) 462-3619,9:00 a.m.–4:45 p.m. PST FAX: (925) 846-3642, any time. i did get the ans mach a few times. Greg called me back the next day. when Greg was near the phone, he usually picked up on the 3rd ring. he spent about 10 mins on the phone with me. he made suggestions that might work for me, as alternatives, should i not be able to afford or want his products. i ordered my radiator, fan brackets and, mounts on the phone, credit card, at around 2:45 pm. radiator was waiting for me, at the front door, when i got home from work the next day. haven't installed it yet, still working on the alt bracket ... and hard to get anything done in the rain out on the driveway. anyway, try that number again ...

with quicktime ... copy the address from the website ... open quicktime, open new player ... open play URL ... paste the address you copied into the url should fire right up and play

Dan ... sorry to be a party pooper ... don't know if anyone mentioned this to you .... to remain smog legal ... you may only use a 95 or newer engine in the sub ... plus ... here's the exciting part ... it must be an engine that was offered in that chassis ... in other words ... you may not run a passenger car engine in a truck, you may not run a truck engine in a passenger car ... now, the smog station may not check this ... may not care ... so, your best bet is to modify the block you have and upgrade the heads for better breathing ... but be advised, strictly speaking, that too is illegal ... but, then again, so is using water cooler to drop the temp of your coolant, or changing to a thermostat, or anything else that changes from the original temp settings at which the engine was smog certified at ... ( throws off the computer. it's programmed to do certain things at certain temps ) sorry to rain on the parade ... again, inspector may not notice or care ... but if you sell it ... you must notify the buyer and get buyer to sign a waiver, should buyer ever not pass smog and they determine that you have "tampered' with the engine and smog controls ... you may ( most likely will ) be liable to make it correct.

i'll try that ... my brother gave me a container of dried wolf pee crystals, said they worked to keep the cats out of his garden. have been hesitant to use em in the z ... keep thinking ... be driving on a hot day ... thinking to myself ... what is that smell ??? orange peels ... i will try it ...

i'm waiting to see how the california legislators define hybrid ... might be able to fly solo in the commuter lane in the z ... if i ever get it out of the driveway again ...

most people seem to know Alex, and he used to drive a 73 240z ... i've seen pictures ...

wonder how it would do with that F'n cat that keeps wizzing in my z ??? parked in driveway, side glass out, interior gutted, under a blue tarp .. damn cat keeps getting in, no matter how many bungie cords i use ...

thank Larry ... i copied the written instructions, saved the pix , then sent the whole thing with the pix as attachments to myself in an email ... can print it up later ... should save my brain from a few blisters ;-}

i have seen that before, when transmission was drawn into the engine with the bolts and input shaft wasn't properly aligned with the torque convertor. convertor got damaged, came apart inside, ruptured and went through the tranny case ... that was a powerglide trans ... not saying this is what happened here, but it is a thought. more likely, a broken or loose mount, case was cracked, removing it from the truck allowed the crack to grow ( it was held in place by what ever mounting and friction was there ). engine trans pulled out ... no support under the trans, especially if engine and trans were pulled as a unit ... additional stress on housing, of weight of trans hanging from the bolts, crack expanded ... trans bolted to new mount in car ... gets twisted, tugged, stressed in directions it wasn't subjected to in the truck. metal, fatigued, crack expands and piece breaks off, smacks convertor, gets stuck between housing and convertor .. acts like a small hammer, running around inside the housing, busting the case into pieces. or could have been a loose bolt, that got thrown out and trapped between housing and convertor ... rips the housing apart. number of variables here and reasons that it may have happened. sorry to see that ... good thing is, no one hurt or disfigured ... lost money, time and disappointment ... but no one harmed ... we live to tell the story and rebuild ... good luck with the project

Larry, as i'm still trying to engineer an alternator bracket, i've gone plenty of time. would appreciate that, save me time having to figure out my own ... was going to follow the schematics that came with the thermostat ... one customed designed for the z, would certainly be better ... thanks, wayne

as i understand it, and please correct me if i'm wrong .... fan resistor in line ... power from the thermostatically controlled switch, the resistor is connected to the power input of the low speed input and the high speed ... juice from the thermostat flows, the low speed comes on, when thermostat kicks in the second speed, it over comes the resistance of the resistor and now the high speed comes on ??? is there a circuit ? i don't understand how how a single resistor will do this. i'm probably complicating this way too much ... with a single resistor, how does the low speed shut off ? i have the taurus 2 spd fan ... i was told, can't run both speeds at the same time, will burn out the motor ... i already have one thermostatically controlled set up. not having to but another one would be great ...

i agree, make this as idiot proof as possible ... two sensors and two thermostatically controlled switches for low and high speed. one set at 180 degrees, the other at 195. again, same as when i ran the wiring for driving lights, power off the coil, so power goes dead when keys off. relays and fuses are a must ... on my dune buggy, running relays with circuit breakers instead of fuses on the head lamps. resets once it cools, should it ever trip ... with the fan, do you think that circuit breakers would be a better idea than fuses ??? i know a slow blow fuse, is meant to ignore an initial surge, such as a motor at start up ... no impedance ... i think a circuit breaker can handle that ... you think ????

thanks ... think i will start with it at 180. i looked at the adjustable set up once, when i bought it about 3 months ago ... i think the sensor gets taped to the upper radiator hose, near the radiator. is that good or bad ??? like Larry, i have the 2 spd taurus fan ... looks like i need a second controller to spark up the 2nd speed. a friend suggested, a relay and with a sw inside the car, when temps rise, turn that sw on ... run the power from the coil, so when ignition is turned off, no matter where the sw is, on or off ... no power to the sw, fan can't be left on. years back, i did that with my driving/fog lamps. but i like not having to think about it ... Larry, the cost of this project just went up another 30 bucks :-0