Roostmonkey

All of those soft ( non ferrous ) metals should be cut,sanded or whatever, with a cutting wax to resist the load up on sanding discs or blades. I prefer a sanding belt or disc over a hard stone wheel for everything but hardend steel. The only thing I use the wheel for is sharpening tungsten electrodes.

I fabricate all Bad dogs parts for John.He generously offered to handle the shipping for me.

Thats ZED FINDINGS

Has anyone tried these manifolds or any others that are constantly on ebay? Ive seen plenty of talk about the single turbo manifolds and the problems that have been had with them, but not the twins. I'm sure if I went with the HKS's at 4X the cost, there would be no issues but if the others fit and stay together I'd rather put the money elsewhere. Thanks

The bimmers are prone to fatigue at the top of the rear towers and if there not taken care of, they will break and the shock will push thru. Ive welded aftermarket plates on to beef it up.

Ive used both ,open center and full deck trailer.I most certainly prefer the open design. My car is pretty low so access to my tie-down points is minimal.Having that center access is great, for many reasons.Keep an eye on the weight of everything you look at, I haul with a 1500 too and the flatbed, wood decked trailers can be pretty heavy.The first year I went to ZDAYZ, I used that type of trailer and once I got into the mountains, the old 1500 was working its arse off just to keep up with traffic.Thats when I decided to build a lightweight easy to use Z hauler.Heres what I came up with and the commercial manufacturers have similar ones available.You prolly wont find a single axle but you didnt want that anyway.

Check your local trailer companies, they all sell tandom axle, dove tailed, elect brake, open center car carriers. You should be able to get what you want for just under 2k. I built my own and got just what I wanted but for the money, your better off buying a commercialy made unit.

I for one am very glad to hear it works.

No need to PM, Ive got plenty of brackets. Just send a personal check or MO to the above address and I'll get it right out to you.

do a search for "ZG" flares

Yes, I made more so theres no more 1st batch second batch.First come first serve as of now.

It will work,but the weight savings are marginal.Stucturally, a welded floor is stronger than rivets or bolts however some of the adhesives are pretty tough and when combined with a mechanical fastening, can be just as strong.

Alright, I need to simplify this whole order/shipping proccess. If you want one of these BRKT's just send an even $ 50.00 Payable to:Brad Robertson....do not include AMF on the check. Send to : AMF c/o Brad Robertson po box 954 Acton, Ma. 01720 Include a return adrress and I'll get your order right out to you.If your ordering more than one, send $45.00 per each.If your not in the USA,pm me for shipping. I'm getting alot of interest but only recieved 3 checks so far. Those three orders have shipped (Austin,Jon ,Marcus) you should see them shortly

Ya, I'll come up with the dwgs, I know I have them somewhere. I installed the drop down camper jacks in the back on each side to keep it from see-sawing when loading/unloading the Z.

I just recieved a set of Rick Wongs mounts today that I bought from a fellow Hybrid Z'er. They are beautiful. Theyre milled from a solid block of aluminum so theres no welds to fail. Do some searching, you'll find a link to Ricks co.

Thanks Eric...thats the write-up I was looking for.

thanks Man...I know I saw it somewhere too.

Ya Tony I think I still have the basic plan for this trailer.I'll see what I can come up with.If not, I'll throw a tape on it and sketch it again.

My 26 came with a beautiful billet Nismo clutch attached to it.Unfortunatly its a pull style while the 25 tranny is a push.Is there a way to make these two work? Somewhere I saw a write-up on swapping from one to the other. Cant remember where I saw it or witch way the swap went (push to pull or pull to push). Sure would be nice if I didnt have to sring for a new clutch.

Take another look, prolly is a P90,

Last year I built a car Z car carrier and hemmed and hawed over steel or alum.After weighing it all out, I went with steel.I call it a Z car carrier because its only rated for a 2600lb vehicle. I used steel for the structure and alum for the ramps ( and the bling ).Total weight for the traler came to 910lbs.This basic design can easily be used for a bike trailer.

IMHO theres no reason to fab a dirtbike trailor in Aluminum.The comercially made units are so light that the 50lbs +- weight savings isnt worth the extra cost of materials and welding.

Thanks John, thats a good read.It makes alot of sense. I'm glad this came up now because I just recieved Daves rear brakes to match the fronts I put on last year.I also installed the willwood prop valve with the fronts.I never got a chance to really test things out (track day) so I have no clue where the bias is.When I put the rears on, I'll gut the stock valve and tune with the willwood.

Daves directions for installing his rear brake setup says to leave the stock prop valve. I'm confused... (AZ Dave )

Yes, I posted a couple of days ago that I'll make enough for everyone. Please be patient, I only expected to sell 15-20 units and its gone considerably over that.