Roostmonkey

need the info...

Im curious how Ron feels about my making these mounts.If your out there Ron, speak up. I would hate to over step any bounderies here.I made this for my car and if you prefer that I keep it at that, then I completley understand.

waterjet would be better.Plasma is great for alot of jobs but laser and waterjet are more precise.

Not me man. Not interested in copying a marketed product.Nor am I looking to produce solutions to all our Z car needs.I'm so busy running my business,keeping the kids in line and trying to get things done on my own car that unless I run into something that needs fabricating on my car, I dont have time to engineer/design all the goodies we all could use.I wish I did.

1 tuff we met at your convention a couple of years ago. I'm from MA and I have the candy green 240 thay was belching 4' flames at the Glen. I would be glad to make the Q45 mount, I just dont have one and given all the other projects in the works already, I cant see my getting one anytime too soon.As we said, if theres someone with the dwg, I'll whip some up.

Read the other " Ron Tyler mount " posts for info regarding fitment. This is Rons/ Petes design, I just copied it and cleaned it up a bit.Pop n wood said what I meant to say. If you can weld, you can fab.As for the Q45 mount, Id be happy to make some but I dont happen to have one kicking around to design from. If anyone has done this and is willing to share the dwgs, Email them and you can have the first one I make.

I dont expect this to fit every car.And I have no intention of doing all the leg work to come up with one that does.I merely copied a proven design (by some) and , in my opinion made it a little cleaner. Ther are so many hybrid combinations between tranny's and diffs that a one size fits all pobably doesnt exist. As for a weld it yourself kit, the reason I made this was to get rid of all the welding involved on the original design.That one consisted of 6 parts, I dropped it to 2. If thats what your looking for, you should just stop by a local shop and have them shear up some blanks for you and weld up your own.If you feel that the originaly sized part will fit your car and your interested in what Ive done, let me know.Thanks for your inputs

Its welded on both sides but I agree for a couple more inches of weld it'll be a better part.

Got my spare shell on the spit so I can mock=up the frame rails and cage and all the other brackets needed. This way everything will be done and ready to install with the new motor.

Heres some pics of my version of Rons bracket.Thanks to Ron and Pete for documenting the design. I cut this on a CNC plasma machine and then ran the 2 pcs thru a timesaver. I used 7 ga cold rolled steel and tig welded the joints. If I decide to produce some of these, they'd be mig'd.Let me know what you think.

I own a 10 man custom metal fab shop.We do everything from ornamental/artchitectural to biopharmacuetical to short run industrial/widgets.We specialize in stainless steel and aluminum fabrications.

Nevermind, I saw the dwgs on another post. I'll let you know when I have some done.

Twoeightynine. Email me the drawings/print and I'll whip a few sets up.Send them to brad.robertson@verizon.net.

They both fit over the original rails, but because the 280 floorpans arent flat and the rail contours to the irregular profile a formed flange isnt practical from a manufacturing standpoint.

Looking good.Keep showing your progress.I was considering the subtle kit a while back and really want to see how yours turns out.

Forces, I gather your more interested in stiffening the chassis and John and JM are thinking more driver saftey which is all SCCA and other organizations are concerned about. I will be building a cage for my car very soon and will be using SCCA approved design but my main concern is stiffening the chassis to handle an RB26 swap.This is not to say that saftey isnt also a priority but this car will never see any SCCA inspections. I plan on dooing the X from the top corners of the main hoop to the strut towers just to stiffen things up.

your fine for a quik move of the car.

Nice score man.Thats clean. It looks exactly like my motor only cleaner.Mine came with a Nismo twin disc clutch ( pull type). Search around, somewhere I saw a detailed description on swapping from push to pull.Theres provisions inside the bellhousing to easyily make the change. Good luck with the project.

Thankyou very much...now I promise I wont ask again.

My serial # is RB26-064170A.

thats exactly why I want to know. Ive been told that its an R33 and also that its an R32. I was just hoping to confirm one way or the other while its semi torn down. And yes its a 26.

I tried searching with no luck...anyone?

Yes I did, what are you looking for? Theres nothing special about it.I'll send some pics later if you still want them

your motor is? On the Race Bread forum they say theres designators stamped into the top flange of the head. Mine has L4 stamped in it. Any Idea what that means?