Roostmonkey

for now. They're all gone and dont know when or if another batch will be made.I hope everyone was/is happy with them. I know some of you had to relocate a hole or two but your all pretty handy and it shouldnt have been too big a deal.Thankyou all,now Ive got the cash to buy a new Wolf V500 from Ron for the RB swap.

you need something to keep the aluminum from loading up on the carbide bit. I use a cutting wax/soap. It comes in a tube about the size of a caulking gun cartridge and you run the bit into it to fill up the grooves and when it looks like the alum is begining to stick again, do it again.Ive never tried it but hand soap might work ( bar soap ).

Mustache bars are made from a hardened steel. Once you have located the new holes with a prick punch ,you can anneal the the drill zone with a pintipped torch.Bring it to cherry red and allow to cool on its own. You can use a wet rag to keep the heat from spreading too far.

Ive never heard of that material and a quik search came up with nothing. If there is such an alloy, and it has similar properties to other std stainless's, then I will have to disagree with Bill's comment on high cutting speeds.Stainless should be machined/drilled at low rpm and with a fair amount of pressure. A coolant/lubricant should definaltey be used. The chips coloration will tell you if things are going well. If the chips are a nice silver ( no discoloration ) then your good. If they start to turn a goldish color your still ok. If they are blue/purple , your doomed. This means your turning at too many rpms and its getting too hot. This heat will work harden the spot and make it even harder to get thru.If this has happend, flip the part over and come in from the other side. You mentioned reaming. If by chance you dont have an existing thru hole and your trying to drill a hole larger than .25", you should put a pilot hole thru (1/8") prior to using the larger bit. Good luck.

Aim your fan to blow out that window and open another to allow non smokie air into the apt.

I'd agree with the 20 ga. but I would use 18 for the new parts.

MMMMMM Napalese temple balls.

If some one can confirm dimensions, i'll make some up.

Here I am posing with my baby just kidding, no idea who this hunk is

Just so happens that I do have some more available. Go to the link that Pound posted for ordering info.

Thats a great price, bummer I already got one from nismo. Do you have any other 26 parts?

Thanks guys for your HUGE efforts. Your findings will benefit us all from now on. Cant wait to hear what the ultimate combo turns out to be. I understand that this wont be determined until after the next session so you can count on my support when the time comes.Thanks again.

I would wait for Charlie to get back from wherever he is.He has the best replacemnt floor out there and it will be worth the wait.If your car is at all valueable,then I wouldnt just scab some flat sheet stock in there and devalue your ride.We all need to remember that alot of the Z venders have their business's as a secondary source of income and in turn, its a secondary priority to them. They run/ operate their businesses all by themselves.When something in life pulls them away, theres nobody else to carry on for them.They'er not ignoring you, they've just been temporarily pulled away.

call 888-449-5131...ask for shea. I got the pan, pickup ( needs to be modded for rear sump) and O ring for $ 188.12 del to MA.He had them instock and knew part numbers off the top of his head.

Call Tacoma Nissan/Nismo. Ask for Shea,He knows what you need and price is very reasonable. I think I paid $ 188.00 for everything.

I'm sorry, thought I sent you an answer already. From what I understand, $30.00 us will cover it.( I was told $ 20.00 for ( 1 ) ).

she turned me into a newt!......got better

What do you guys think of the Cometic multi layer metal HG's? Do they compare with the HKS GReddy or Tomie?

as for timing, wait for the orange glow to disapear from sight with your helmut down.

they use 2 seperate drains. The size ( without measuring ) looks to be the same as an L28et.

nm

I have a 72 521 P/U and I believe you'll need to cut out the firewall to allow those extra 2 cylinders to fit.The motor mount to the front is the same so that helps some.I'm getting ready to swap an RB26 into my 240, when thats done, the L28et is going in a 72 510 2 dr.My preliminary measurements have shown that this will be pretty much the same as the P/U swap. I say go for it.

Straight argon and SS wire is all you'll need.As for the welds rusting,you may get some mild surface oxidation from the iron coming to the top of the weld bead but its not anything to be overly concerned with.I use both the expensive electro/passivation machine and a nitric acid pickling paste depending on the application.The paste is nasty zhit but it does a great job of eating the iron off the surface. I tig weled mine and didnt treat it with anything and theres no rust to speak of.I used mandrel 304 el's from Mcmaster's ( 4-90's ) from turbo to tail.

J. are you using the 26 flywheel and starter too?

well the starter bolts up to the 25 tranny just fine.I have the opportunity to trade the billet Nismo pull style clutch that came with the 26 for an HKS twin plate push style also for a 26. I'm told the early R32's had the push clutch.