Jersey

Ok, i decided - 50trim E wheel in a machined B housing, oil/water center, bullet, Stage III clipped in a .63. I hope my cousin likes it...damn it! If i take my little T3 off ahead of time, clean it up reeeeal good, do ya think i can slip it by him as the Hybrid? hmmmm.... The only problem i see is controlling the boost from spiking using the internal WG. I guess how others suggested, port it as far as she's go safetly and create/build/buy a bigger flapper for it. It should be fine to run this way until he does more upgrades - fuel, exhaust, I.C... - by then we should hopefully have found a good donor 240 for the motor and then we'll go external WG. I hope i got it right Hey, it's his $750, not mine! haha. Just kidding. Thanks a buch for the crash course. Learned a bunch in one day. Appreciate it.

Brad, Yo, Sleeper, Doug, 327 - Thanks for all the info. I think i'm stuck because i wanted to try and keep the internal flapper, even if i opened it up to 1-1.25", but it doesn't seen like that would even be enough and will create spiking and/or creep, which i'd rather not have. My decision this morning was basically to go 50trim, T04B housing, .63a/r T3 stage 3, 360 thrust, water/oil. But now from your posts, it seems that configuration would just give me problems with an internal WG so i really have no idea which way to go right now. He's not going to want to spend the extra $3-350 for and external WG which would put the setup near $1k. I was trying to configure the best possible option for around $650 and it doesn't look like anything in that price range will flow "correctly" I was told by one builder that putting a E wheel in a B housing will drop efficiency by 3-4% as Yo said, but he said it would go un-noticed. Another builder i talked to said it would make a big difference in efficiency and would affect performance dramatically. Go figure. Also, i asked about the 10 blade stage 3 and they didn't know anything about it. I really have no idea which direction to point my cousin in at this point, partly due to the fact that i'm green behind the ears when it comes to this. Whole new relm. Thanks again guys. My brain hurts.

I've been following this topic as well since i'm interested in using the MS, using my MSD 6A and the '78 dizzy that's installed on my N/A L28 if it'll work. The only thing i can contribute right now is, Bernardd, i feel for you and your daughter My daughter lost her snuggy in toys-r-us one day and i went back that night and ransacked the entire store, and found it! Good luck and hope it shows up, for her AND for you! haha. Ok, back to the topic Sorry, punchy @ 1:45am

Out of the 3 T3's i watched at idle, none of them spun so i really wouldn't think they'd need oil. Now maybe they're all on their way out but who knows. And, judging by the amount of side to side play on this T3, i was 99% sure it was the problem and just wanted to confirm that other 1%, which it did. Does your T3 spin at idle? Maybe my T3 has some drag from being worn and abused a few times at 14psi which is why it doesn't spin @ idle either, even though it has no real play. She boosts fine though. hmmm...like moby said

Thanks a bunch guys. Now i need to go home and do some research and make a decision in the morning and order one for him. I like the sounds of both options, each with their own pro's and con's. Right now, I'm leaning more toward Yo's exact setup with the B series 60-1. Decisions, decisions. Damn i wish i was ordering one for myself!!!! Soon i hope. Thanks again for all the time and info.

Yo - so you're saying that the redesigned E series flows better, obviously since you would make that change, right? Why would you change to the 10 blade instead of your 11 blade? And in which configuration will in need to open up the WG hole and get a bgger flapper? Sorry i'm asking so many questions and really appreciate the info. Wouldn;t want you to think of me as Bastaad's twin J/K 525 if you read this I'm really trying to understand it all in a short amount of time to make the best decision. Bay, thanks. Looks like that 60-1 does have a real broad range. Very nice. What's our stock T3 trim...40?

525 - my cousins '83ZXT, that just started smoking seemingly out of the "blue" and found out the other night that his T3 is shot, would not really smoke at cold start up. I think because the oil was thicker and the T3 doesn;t even spin at idle. After it warmed up a bit and spun the T3 a little, it would start to smoke a little at idle, little more when giving it throttle, and when you backed off after holding it at like 2krpm for a minute or so, it would cloud. It really wouldn't smoke too much at idle after sittle there for a bit, probably because the T3 isn't pushing any air in to the intake at this rpm...but bring the R's up a little and a nice blue cloud would appear! J-pipe itself had a slight film of oil on it but not really that much. I'm guessing the air/oil mixture was passing through it so quickly, it didn't cling. I took the AFM to T3 boot off, grabbed the compresor shaft and it had lots of side to side movement and instantly knew that it was the cause. Just for S&G's, we disconnected the T3 oil feed line on the passenger side of the L28, where it T's off, plugged the hole so no oil would come shooting out of the block and ran it...guess what, no smoke. No oil to burn past the seal in the T3, no smoke. Maybe you could try this test. Not that hard to do and would tell you whether it's the T3 seals or not. One more thing to eliminate from the saga

Yo - would you configure it any different now since you ran for a bit with this setup? I didn't know with an E you'd need a spacer but could get away without using one if you went B series? Is the flange thicker or is the snail shell made of thicker material causing it to hit the manifold? Heck, i really don't know the differences between the E and B series except that i heard you have more options with the E and that's it's more efficient than the B series. Why that is, i have no idea. I'd rather not have to use a spacer because I KNOW i'll be on my back for hours, tapping the manifold after i break the studs trying to get them out to replace them with longer ones Do you guys have a suggestion for best price and service on these? I've heard Majestic, Turbonetics, Turbo City and TurboChargers.com but not sure who to go through. Thanks. Learning lots.

HA! Now you have me completely confused. Sorry. I though i was going to get a T04E WITH a 60-1 wheel, and now you're saing they're completey different! See, shows how much i know. Here's one of the pages on a site i was looking at - http://www.turbochargers.com/Turbos/TurboUpgrades/T3-T4-Hybrid.htm - Just thought this was a T04E and you just need to choose what trim you want. If i'm sounding retarded, i am when it comes to this. Learn me Nathan, learn me!!! haha. Thanks again.

Nathan - can you explain the difference between stage 5 and stage 3? Would it cost more and would it be the same install as the stage 3? I'm real ignorant when it comes to choosing a T for these cars as this is the first time i'm ever doing it. I've been N/A all my life As i understand and read about it, a 62-1 compressor would spool a little slower, right? Maybe i should go 57-1 trim or even a 50 or 54-1? I wish there was data posted on different setups like, a T04E 57-1, stage3, .63a/r will hit strong at this rpm and start to drop off here...and a 60-1, stage3, .63a/r hits here and does this...blahblah. I also understand, given that fuel is supplied through the boost pressure, the compression was the same on each L28ET the T3/T4 tested on, all makes a difference but, all those variables taken care of and fixed, just to see the gains/losses each different setup affected the L28ET. Trying to get the car to not be a complete dog down low but will also pull to 6k rpm stong. And i need to order it today for him!! haha. Go figure. Hey, thanks again.

How's this setup sound? What do you think the spool speed/hit will be like? What's everyone running and how do they like it? Looking down the road to building this into a 350-450hp Z and would rather not short change myself in the beginning of the build (actually cousins Z) His T3 is smoked and needs to replace it now and he figures he may as well do a hybrid now than spend the $ on another T3. I've read a LOAD of info in the archives and i was wondering what everyones current setups are. I'm just trying not to make a mistake while spending $600 of his hard earned cash Thanks in advance.

Thanks jerky boy If it were my Z (and i'm trying hard to come up with an extra $600 right now ) i would definetly go T3/T4. I basically convinced my cousin to go this route and he's ready to spend the $, i just need to figure out the best configuration of a T3/T4 to choose for him. I'm trying to read as many postst in the archives to give him a well configured hybrid to spend his $ on. He just wants to get the L28ET running perfect in the '83 body and then swap it into a 240 and i know he has 350-450hp intentions down the road, i just want to steer him in the right direction. I was thinking 60-1 Compressor trim with stage 3 turbine wheel w/.63 AR turbine housing. Whattya think? Any suggestions? Maybe i'll make a new post to see what everyone's running and what works best and compare thier setups to the setup my cousin will have. i'd hate to suggest a T3/T4 to him and find out the L28ET never gets it spooled and I basically wasted his $600!!! Then again, i'll know not to get that configuration when i buy my hybrid j/k. Thanks again.

Anyone have one in good condition looking to sell? I finally got to look at my cousins smoking '83ZXT last night. Pulled the J-pipe off and found a little pool of oil where the boot coupler for the J-pipe connects to the T3. Yanked the AFM to T3 boot off and the compressor side of the T3 has so much side to side movement, it's amazing it hasn't grenaded on him yet! Oil must be just blowing by that seal. So either i'm going to get a new/used T3 for him or, a T3/T4 for me () and give him my T3.

Hey Mr. new member So, what's your setop? I love hearing 326hp @ rear wheels on a Z. Joey, not to hijack your post - i ran a new 3/8" feed and used the original 5/16" feed as the return. ..but i think you emailed me. Sorry, just got back from a bar and trying to think.

no push to make it work Nathen, i just like to know how everythign works under my hood. That's it. I've had a few and cannot type much more. Sorry. Appreciate the re[ly. Post more tomorrow.

525 - cant type much - too many drinks but, i ripped my cousins '83zxt down and it's his T3 that' s wasted. Godda go.

Thanks for the reply vinh. I did some tesing myself this afternoon and found the VCV seals at idle (on my Z anyway) and also at any incease in intake pressure, but when you snap the throttle plate closed, it opens just slightly to allow a little air in then closes back up again, doing its job and controlling pressure i guess. I also checked the little 3/4" nipple off the J-pipe on my cousins '83zxt that is connected to this T of vacuum lines and, when you get the T3 spinning and snap the throttle plate closed, it vents hard out of the nipple and must force the air down through the VCV, basically like a blowoff valve as you mentioned, just vents it into the intake instead of the boot before the T3. I wonder what pressure this thing is suppose to start venting at? No real way to test it since there's no technical data about it in the FSM. Figure if it was fatigued and the spring was weakend over the years, it would take less vacuum to open it and could be the cause of slight problems such as high idle since air from the J-pipe would be sucked right into the intake, bypassing the throttle body. Thanks again for reply.

Thanks Cody. I'm just real curious as to what this things purpose is. It's the valve that looks to be tapped into the 4th intake runner and when removed, it looks and operates like a PCV. When it opens, it allows air into the intake.

If you have the FSM, it tells you exactly how the system works and how to test it. A yellow comes from the ECCS which goes to the power transistor. The power transistor amplifies this signal and then continues to the negitive side of the coil on a blue wire. The CAS controls this yellow wire which, after the transistor, connects and disconnects the coils primary winding which in turn, creates major current through the secondary winding, creating a spark. What the the voltage reading on the yellow wire, or after the transistor (blue wire), depends on the position of the CAS. Now if the CAS is not plugged into the 4 plug harness while testing, it may just show 12v on the blue (neg side of coil), but that's just a guess. The black/white that runs to the power transistor and to the + side of the coil should have near 12v on it with the key in the ON position (depending on how your battery's condition is) Don't worry to much about the CAP because it will run without it. And BTW, what did you use for a CAP? I see in your other post that you didnt have one? I would leave it disconnected for now becuase it sounds like your shorting your blk/wht (12v) to ground when you connect the ground side of it, knocking it down to 9v. Not much more to it.

I'm trying to follow you but i'm having a tough time. Dont worry about the distributor right now. Take the black wire off of the bottom of the dizzy and ground it. What does the voltage read at the + side of the coil? With the black wire disconnected and hanging, what does the voltage read at the + side of the coil now? When you say "almost none on - ", do you mean there's almost no voltage on the negitive side of the coil? When you say "With the capacitor in place i get 12v on both sides but nothing after the capacitor", both sides of what?

Sorry Moby...it was Mudge. Here ya go..

Your not suppose to get power through it. That's what the CAP is for. That black is attached to the housing of the distributor and should show ground when the dizzy is bolted down. Dont worry to much about the gasket, just make sure it doesn't leak. Think about it - when you put the 2 bolts down through the dizzy to bolt it down to the block, it's going to be grounded. Now when you hook it to the CAP, it may see a small amount of bleed voltage after you turn the key on but i wouldn't think much if the CAP is doing its job. I'll check on mine when i get a chance today. I emailed a schematic to one of the guys on here (i think Moby?) and i think he has it posted on the web somewhere. I'll try to find it and post it here.

What wire are you talking about? There's the plug that has 4 wires in it from the dizzy that runs back to the ECCS. There's also a single black wire that's connected to the base of the dizzy by way of a female spade. That black runs to a capacitor and on the other side of that cap is a black/white that runs into the harness and tied into ignition power. All the cap does, to my understanding, is bleed off any voltage at the distributor so the signal is clean and absolute. I'm not sure of any wire that runs directly from the distibutor back to the coil, uness your talking about the coil wire itself?

Afshin - did you have your coffee yet? j/k! haha. 525 - We just need as much accurate data as possible to offer any kind of semi-intelligent internet solutions to your problem, as Afshin "mentions"...(too easy to bust you Afshin ) Oil on a few of the plugs makes a big difference on where to focus the attention on toward your problem. If it didn't smoke before the head rebuild, i'm going to say one of two things- head gasket or rings. Sometimes the new compression from the top end overcomes a weak bottom end which is why your rings might be taking a dump. But, as Afshin and Sleeper mentioned, really try and do a compression check, it may tell the story. And i know your tight on money and places to work on the Z but, see if you can get a hold of one for 1/2 hour and do it. Good luck.

Ok, i though about it more and i have an idea - When you snap the throttle plate closed with a good load on the motor, instead of the vacuum in the intake going to 50hg's, it only goes to say 28hg because this VCV opens and "controls" the amount of vacuum to a tolerable rate by letting air from the J-pipe in. Whattya say?