Jersey

That aint right szlash! Cody, the VCM controls the AAC and EGR. Come on guys, someone out there HAS to know what this VCV's purpose is???

Idle control, as in AAC (Auxillary Air Control) valve? The AAC is the only "valve" that is directly connected in the T mess of hoses on top of the intake and the AAC gets controlled by the VCM (Vacuum Control Modulator) This VCV is also connected to the 3/4" nipple off of the J-pipe and to the Air Regulator. The direction of the valve is that, it opens and allows air into the intake when pressure is applied from the top or a great amount of vacuum is in the intake and pulls it open, allowing air in. I just have no idea what this is for and what situation would cause it to open. Appreciate the response 525. Any other ideas out there?

Hey all. Referencing a '82ZXT. Does anyone know what the VCV is for? Thanks.

Can't think of anything else right now what they could have screwed up on when they did the head. I am glad to hear it's not your T3 and the J-pipe test worked. About the seals - i just picked up a set for my cousins '83zxt (smokes just likes yours, out of the blue) and i asked and double checked if there was any different part #'s for the N/A and ET motor. They only had one listing for 1981-1983 turbo and non-turbo Z's. He's even got the hydraulic P90A head and asked to make sure there wasn't any diferent part #'s for that and their weren't. And i'm hoping my guy was wrong as well and there is 2 different seals and you have the wrong ones installed. Hopefully i'll get my hands on his ZXT within a couple of days...as long as this damn Isabel hurricane doesn't crush us here in NJ! I will post what i find. Maybe they're related.

Yeah Kenny, believe it or not, it's a mopar fan that i had in my garage. I have no idea what cfm it moves but it works, for now. I really need to go spend the $200 and do it right. 327 - i think we went back and forth about the piping before i did it and you gave me some tips, no? I just went back this past friday night and had a bad night. Track conditions weren't so good and it was hard to hook up. Pulled a 13.2@109mph. The 109mph was my fatest mph so far so that's good i guess. I don't know, just trying to keep it fun Tell more about your new setup! I'm going to need 370cc injectors and T3/T4 soon. Anyone have some extra's laying around??? Wannabvan...i'm not sure what you mean but, the pipe across the radiator goes from the TB to the NPR I.C. I didn't cut either end of the I.C., they both just face foward. Some cut one end off and re-weld it straight but i somehow managed to got mine to jusssst squeeze around the radiator on both sides (minor radiator cutting ) Not sure if that's what you were looking at. Thanks Chris. Appreciate it guys. Wouldn't have gotten this far without ya.

525 - have you checked the voltage supplied to the battery by the alternator when it is running? I wonder if you're full fielding the alternator and burning the batteries? After she cranks a few times and finally wont crank any more, do either of you battery cables become hot?

Thanks for the info guys and thanks Moby/John. It's factory 918 orange. I'm not sure what jiffy lube carries but i guess i'm going wix as Joey suggests.

Thanks guys. The gauge is just temporary and not supported by anything, just the fuel line itself. Funny, i've been using Fram for a while and now you're the second person in the last month telling me to lose it. Time to do an oil change anyway i guess

I can run my Z and my cousins '83ZXT at IDLE without the J-pipe connected and the little port plugged... At idle only. If you try to give it any throttle, then you would have to move the AFM flapper by hand to try and match throttle position...and it would be pretty tough to do. Now maybe my experiences are different than others but, i can run both these cars like this. It seems like you're all hooked up with David Karey's offer! Very nice offer David. Wish i was closer to lend a hand.

SWEET! Man you are running some nice #'s. Congrats!

no sweat.

Understand now on the 75 intake/sealing up the PCV port. I didn't know the '75's port was directly above the T3 when swapped in. There's been a lot that you've went through recently and i'm trying to keep up - Was this '75 intake swapped in just recently when you put the rebuilt head back on? Was the car smoking before you pulled the head? I remember you had a bent valve and a real bad sound, just don't remember if it was smoking or this just started happening after you put it all back together. Sorry, i read so many posts a day that the ol' brain gets mixed up sometimes You dont have to swap the T3 out to see if oil is blowing past the seal, going through your J-pipe, into your intake. Since you now say it smokes at idle constantly, just remove the J-pipe, plug that open little T pipe port that goes to the air regulator/vacuum control valve/AAC, then start the car and let it idle. If it still smokes, it's not coming from your T3, at least not the compressor side. Now thinking back from your previous posts, first thing i suggest you do is get a battery. You mentioned a while back about your battery being dead one morning or something and wanted to throw it in your girls car to charge, and now you mentioned that it wont crank sometimes and the lights are dim. It may not be your starter OR alternator at all. If you already replaced the battery, sorry, must have missed that info. When you had the car sitting and idling, did you have the crankcase breather unplugged? What kind of vacuum are you gettign @ idle? Also, an easy and cheap way to test your temp gauge is to buy a $5 meat thermometer (or rob it from mom/wife/g/f ) and stick it in the radiator when it's up to temp and thermastat is open. I know you dont feel that some of the suggestions that others, including myself, are not in any way the cause of your problem but, you never know until you try...and they're not hour long, intense tests like ripping the head back off to see what ya see. You may be surprised one day... i still learn every day. Fustration is tough to deal with but it'll be all worth the reward when you figure it out. Let us know how ya make out.

Rags, I may have something for ya in the way of a F54. In the moddle of my daughters 2 year old party at my house right now, but will post more later.

Rags and i still need to hook up. Soon. Trying to get him to get to the track with me but, excuses..excuses j/k Joe if you read this. I wish i was around when you came out. I would have definetly met up. Another road trip in the workings? Thanks. Those are some sweet #'s yourself! So, you're able to twist that AFM enough to run the 420cc's and not choke her to death down low? If you think i can get her to run right throughout the RPM range with the 370's and by cranking on the spring a bit, that's the direction i'll go in. I was having the same traction issues. Mostly due to track prep (and 16psi ) but a set of slicks would have DEFINETLY helped! Our Z's are damn close in 1/4 mile times, it would be awesome to run side by side. Let me know if your ever around again. We'll hook up. Rags...calling Rags....winter's coming...not much track time left If you need a hand down there, let me know. Can't wait to see one of those sweet looking Z's tear it up.

No, i haven't really got my hands on the '83 yet. I was getting my Z prepped for the track last night so all my free time was taken up by that. This week, i'll have him come up and i'll dig into it. Just sounds kinda like the same problem you're having. When you said intake, i thought you meant intake manifold, not the boot (intake) between the AFM and T3, that's why i mentioned about positive pressure. You are correct about the way you said it...there never will be boost pressure present in the AFM to T3 boot, just blow-off from the BOV, which will get sucked up by the T3. If you do uncork the crankcase breather, I wouldn't drive it and create positive manifold pressure (boost) unless you put a pcv inline because you will surely build CC pressure that way. I'm doing the best i can and if my thoughts/suggestions seem way out of line, i'm just trying to think of anything all the way here in NJ. Who knows, maybe this will spark someone else's thoughts and you'll find a solution. I wouldn't wory about the line going from the top of the valve cover to the boot between the AFM and T3. As long as it's good, i don't think this would create any kind of problem. Question...why did you have the PCV port on the botom of the intake manifold welded shut? Just curious.

ok, so let me see if i have this all right with your current setup.... 1 - you have the hose that comes from the top of the valve cover connected to the boot between the AFM and turbo, the way it was stock, correct? 2 - you have the crankcase vent hose that use to run to the PVC blocked off, right? 3 - the threaded hole that the PVC screwed into on the bottom of the intake welded shut? I'm not understanding this - "pressure cant build up inside the block because the intake is constantly putting vacuum on the hose that goes to the valve cover" How is the intake constantly putting vacuum on that hose? Isn't it connected to the boot between the AFM and T3? You need to think in both directions...vacuum AND boost pressure. Idle/low load=intake vacuum. High load/boost=intake positive pressure. Also remember that there are passages from the head to the crankcase that allow the oil to drain back to the block. High crankcase pressure might not allow the oil to drain or work in the opposite direction and it needs to go somewhere. Just some thoughts that've crossing my mind. May help, may not, but trying. Do you have any oil buildup where the dipstick seal is? I know you'll get busted for working on the car, just trying to give you quick, simple checks.

Ha. yep, same here. 35 yeas old and still some things never change from 17 years ago. First Z i had when i was 19-20 years old, '77 280, I snapped the output main shaft on the 280b trans while trying to impress a bunch of people (girls), dropping the clutch real hard. After that, fist met dash and made a nice crack in the perfect dash. Ya figure, live and learn but, some things never change. I know there's a bunch of info in the archives and all around the net about adjustable FPR's and RRFPR's, i just haven't dug into exactly which one i should use with the forced indution motor. The one you mention sounds like it would adjust static pressure at idle which in turn would increase by that many pounds throughout the entire range. I thought i would need a RRFPR so the pressure at idle up to zero manifold pressure would be the same, then, when boost hits creating positive manifold pressure, a RRFPR would increase the pressure on the return line linear to the amount of boost you push? Maybe i'm completely wrong on this because i haven't done much reseach on it so please excuse my ignorance. Thanks. One day, i'll really need to bite the bullet (and beg the wife ) to go with an SDS or something similar. I think i'm nearing the limit of pushing the stock components. Hey, I'm all for JY deals that work. I'm way past the point of needing to say i have the best of the best and have a label on everything. If it works, i'll use it. The pockets thin a bit after marriage, 2 kids and a house! haha.

Ok, one more thing...is there ANY way you're getting major crankcase pressure? I know you said you have the hose that comes out of your block, the one that used to go to the PVC which was screwed to the intake, vented to atmosphere. Is it AT ALL possible this is plugged with something? Maybe major pressure is buiding up in there causing blow-by, in turn causing major smokage? ok, i need sleep 2:30am here on the east coast. I will continue to work on this in my head, unless you've completely given up. LMK.

525 - can you do me one favor if you get a chance - With the car at idle, take the valve cover cap off and let it idle for another minute or two. Does it start smoking? I am going to figure this out 7 thousand miles away and before you sell it! BTW - decent cars cost about 40k so, if nobody offers you close to that for your Z, i guess you going to have to keep it j/k. I just want you to enjoy it, that's all.

Nice run Doug! Sorry to hear you only ran twice and had the same track conditions. I forgot mention, i did get my mph up from 105 with the 12.88 to 110..even though i ran a slower ET. I can't believe you broke the shift knob! Glad you got her home. I missed 2nd on one of the runs and i was so pissed because, i thought, i FINALLY got a good launch and now i missed 2nd?!?!?!! i think i almost blew every synchro in the T5 by the way i rammed it into second after i missed it on that run. Like it was the trans's fault! haha. I ran about 8 times tonight and was taking breaks. I would have liked better track conditions and only got 5 runs in but, so be it i guess. Take what you can, right? Thanks for the nice words. Appreciate it. Just trying to get the most out of what i can afford right now. Little by little. Yeah, i don't know what would be the next best investment for my Z right now but i WAS thinking since i do have the hi-pressure pump in there, maybe the next step SHOLD be a adjustable FPR like you advised. Do you have a suggestion on which one is good? Then again...i'm not sure i can cycle those stock injectors any more than i am right now. I'm definetly leaning out, that's for sure. Thanks again and congrats on at least one nice run. Get 'em next time...

Drax. You have to open up the 280 tach and jump out the BIG inline resistor. There are 2 inline, just jump out the big one. Then all you need to do is hook a wire that comes from the back of the 280 tach's sensor lug and run it to the MSD tach signal port. It's just a male spade on the MSD side so all you need is a female spade and plug it right in. The value out of the MSD tach port is too low to run the 280 tach so that's why you jump out the internal resistor. I think i still have notes about jumping out the internal resistor if i wasn't clear enough here. Just got back from the track and my darn head is filled with fuel!!! Let me know if you need more info. And BTW, it is dead accurate using the MSD tach port.

Thanks guys. Just got back from the track. No good. Couldn't pull anything better than a 13.12. Traction was horrible and everyone complianed the same, so it just wasn't me. Could not for the life of me get better than a 2.0 60ft. It seemed like they didn't even take care of the track...just wanted to keep everyone running round robin as quickly as possible without taking 10 seconds to clean up the holeshot area. Oh well. Maybe i should just hang the hat and be happy with the 12.8. No reason to go back if i'm going to be slower, right? Car did run good though. At the end of the night, I did try 1 gallon of 104 octane mixed with about the 3 gallons of 93 i had in the tank but i just couldn't hook up right. Thanks for the fuel pressure thoughts. I didn't do anything with it. I did unhook the O2 for a few runs to see how she'd run...sameysame. Open loop, just a little richer down low. I did have fun sleeper and that's what it's all about. Car made it home in one piece and i'll be able to take her our for a sunday cruise 8) Thanks guys. 525 - don't sell you Z

Cross your fingers that i don't blow her up tonight! haha. Hope to beat my 12.88. Wish i had a way to trick the ECCS into running richer at WOT but i think at WOT, the ECCS system goes back into the open loop mode and ignores sensor readings. I was thinking maybe i could jump the HTS out with a resistor that tells the ECCS that it's cold and to pulse the injectors a little longer but again, i don't think that would have any effect if in open loop. Walboro 255lph pump and i can't get enough fuel...go figure. I know i should invest in a RRFPR but, i'm running tonight. Any tips/suggestions/hints?

Ryan, for the heck of it, did you check for switched 12v on the black w/white that runs to the transistor/coil? Does the yellow wire at the transistor ohm out all the way back to the eccs? Just shooting ideas around...