Jersey

HAHA. Just fooling around tonight and decided to do a search and found this post. Ready to call me out, eh FL??? LOL! If i didn't have video i probably wouldn't believe it myself! John, thanks for the kind words. I just drive like you guys - foot to the firewall and shift like a mutha.... all at the ripe old age of 36

Hey John. Sorry your having a bad experience after spending that kind of cash. Dont worry, your 5 year old son will value greatly from the experience and knowledge you can hand down to him about this. That's how i justify it when spending extra $ on my Z... my 4 yr old son wil LOVE it! lol. Everyone has great suggestions and i'm sure you'll get it squared away. The 3" exhaust shouldn't be causing any of your issues - i ran the same and have no bad side effects swapping from 2.5". Me, i would #@$%can the POV. Plug it. You have a gauge, right? Keep an eye on it and you'll know when somethings wrong, just take your foot off the firewall! After you get used to how the Z reacts in all different situations, you wont have to stare at the gauge everytime you're on it hard, you'll be able to feel if she's right. I would also take the "blow off" hose off of your BOV (i think you said it was recirculated in between the AFM and T, right?) and try driving it around like that for a test to see if it leaks. I used to have mine (1g DSM BOV) plummed to recirculate but disconnected it one day just to hear the "WOOOSH" and haven't hooked it back up since (Yes, my Z runs fine with it venting to atmosphere for some reason) But the reason i mention this for you to possibly try is because i found out that i lift my foot a bit too fast off the pedal and she vents a little, then if i get back on the throttle a certain amount, i can hear it still blowing off, but just sometimes. If i lay my foot into her, she seems to seal but more often then wanted, i can hear it not sealing. I would have never known this with it recirculated because you just cant hear it. This winter i need to actually spend $ on a real one (my son will lOVE it ) but, good thing i wanted to hear the bling "woosh" because i probably could have overspun my stock T3, just by having it throwing air around in the engine bay instead of my intake. Just a suggestion as a test. When i installed the NPR IC, i did feel like it gave me a little more lag. It seemed to moved the hit up about 300rpm. On the other side of the coin, i cranked the boost up a bit and when she hits, it's awesome Anyway, I'm rambling but i just wanted to see if i could help in any way with the experiences i've had. If you're ever down around the area (NJ), stop by. I'm no expert but i'd take a look at it for ya. 3K is a lot of coin to spend to not have you pinned to the seat with a nice big grin! Let us know how you make out. Good luck.

Actually, I figured out what i was thinking - the series 5 (i think mid '88 and up) RX7's and newer that use the 460 & 550cc injectors i believe are high impedence. With the 370's, it's not bad at all. They seem to have really woke my 240 up. Better a bit rich than a bit lean in my poor mans book I didn't have to adjust my bypass screw at all for proper idle either. I guess my Z must just have a mind of it's own. Not agonizing at all. Hopefully i'll get the time this winter to build the MS!

Thanks moby.

Aren't the RX7 injectors high impedance? For some reason i thought they were? Forrest, i'm going to have to disagree with you here - you do not NEED to use stock injectors with stock ECU. If you're a hack like myself, running the 370's with the stock ECU, you can tweek the AFM a bit to get her close enough to run smoothly. My Z surely takes full advantage of the extra fuel by the seat-o-da-pants dyno and actually runs very smooth thoughout the R's. Yes, my plugs are a little darker than that nice brown but, no stumbling and no pinging! The next most logical step for me to take is toward some type of fuel management as Forrest suggested, just to get her perfect but, i know it can be done with the 370's. 440's may require a bit more HACKING! LOL.

DSM BOV's are mounted on a flange welded to the stock pipe. I made a flange and welded it to the IC pipe right before the TB. Little nipple just goes to an open port off the intake manifold. I used the DSM boot between my AFM and T3 because it's shorter which gives you room to route an intake out through the rad support and because it has the 1.5" (?) "blow off" inlet already built in. Also, the inlet is actually angled toward the T3 as Tony was mentioning. Here's a pic. Probably can't see much but worth a shot. Kinda like... where's Waldo? I know, i know.. it's a disaster in my engine bay. No flames. Winters here in NJ....

Damn Hanns, i wish i would get kicked off of a track for a reason like that with my Z

If so, and you're looking for a turbo donor/parts car, i found this - CLICK HERE. At the bottom it states - "i also have a turbo parts car with many mechanical parts left on it- including a very strong motor and turbo, 5 speed trans, and an extra set of wheels and tires. If high bidder is interested. (Never hurts to have extra parts for these as they are becoming rarer by the day)" I have no idea who this person is, i just thought i'd share the info with someone who may be interested in possibly joining the boost fun that resides in the Ohio area.

Thanks for the updates Moby. I have a feeling it's going to be a long winter here in NJ... maybe long enough to build a MSS. I hope you took good notes as i will be hitting you up for some info j/k. No, really, i will Thanks and great job so far.

Hanns, absolutely beautiful work. I just wish i lived closer to see your Z in person. Awesome. BTW, my buddy is in the business selling those valve covers and i could ask him to order you a set with the flames reversed if you wanted. I hope one day i'll have half the patience as you. Very, very nice.

Sounds like it. The 4 AFM's that i opened were very easy - slice the silicone sealant with a blade around the outside, pop it open. Probably just like you did with your n/a zx.

Sleeper - right after i clicked "submit", i realized exactly what i said and you're 100% right, the amount of load will effect AFM movement. Sorry about that mis-info 525. TGIF... my brain hurts.

Pull the cover off of your AFM, bring the r's up until the AFM flapper is wide open, and you'll know - from idle to ???. Come on 525...lots of questions, you supply us with this info

cygnusx1 - absolutely right. Adjustment of the bypass screw on the side of the AFM will increase/decrease the amount of unmetered air to bypass the AFM, affecting idle. I didn't mean to confuse anyone. I just noticed a bunch of posts regarding this and had a bunch of personal emails asking how difficult it was, so i figured i'd post and hopefully show how it was done. Pictures can speak a thousand words sometimes. 525 - The AFM may affect a wider range of throttle position on a a N/A motor but on a Turbo Z, if you take the cover off the AFM and run the Z, you'll see how easily the flapper moves in responce to throttle position. I would think the increased pull of air from the T3 moves the flapper easier, but this is just speculation on my part since i haven't had the two side by side. Just a thought.

I put the 370cc's in my '82L28ET, twisted the AFM 18 teeth clockwise and it runs real good and strong. I'm not saying this is right for every Z, just filling you in on my experience. When i put my 370's in, i attached them all to the fuel rail, flipped an old valve cover over, placed it below them to catch the fuel, held the rail up above it while i had a friend crank the Z. Yes, there was a fire show once because i thought my friend unplugged the wires sending signal to the coil, not just the coil wire itself like he did. Yes, it's dangerous, but it works for me. One of the 370's was basically shooting a stream instead of the nice atomization the others seems to be spraying and after a little coaxing, the troubled 370 was spraying just as well as the others. Again, this is just what i did and yes, i tend to do unsafe things sometimes I posted a pic of the inside of my AFM HERE in case it helps at all. Good luck and keep us posted on what you figure out.

Had a few internal shots of my turbo AFM and figured i'd post one for anyone thinking of adjusting it... possibly to compensate for larger injectors as i did. Hope it helps.

SLEEPER - I'm ashamed of you using those words together like that! One thing to add to Sleepers info - the BOV, when venting due to the throttle plate being snapped closed, will allow the turbo to continue to spin (stay spooled) at close to the same speed as it was while the TP was open which will put you right back near the boost pressure you were at, in the next gear. Me personally, the BOV was one of the best performance mods i did so far... other than my recent nose job (crash and burn!) And oh yeah, one more thing...the POV is the thing that should be removed and plugged hahahehe. Sorry (wink)

Congrats szlash. Glad your back in the saddle. Now make those tires screeeeem Yes, same here - nice to get my cousins T3/T4 back from Majestic, get it installed quickly because if the experience of doing it a few times ( ) to find out it's all good

Hey 525 - Wanna let me in on your secret on where to pick one up for $100?? I am using the MSD box but i'd have to find out what the tach signal output actually is. I seem to remember it being like a 12v square wave output which, judging be what Yo said, wouldn't work because the HKS needs digital. Yo, does it perform?

525 - Just an idea - sell the GN IC and find the medium size NPR IC like i did - $150, and you "shouldn't" have to spend the extra cash to get it modified at all. I got it to squeeze around the stock radiator. Picked up some mandral bent 2" & 2.5" aluminized pipe from JC Whitney - $30, welded it, got a few couplers from Turbonetics - $30 - (or you can probably use truck radiator hose like i've heard others doing if you want to save more) and bolt it in. I'm not sure what the GN IC is worth but, it's just an option that i thought you may want to explore. Good luck.

If either of you can send it through AIM - JerseyLen13. Thanks.

Yo, that's exactly what i'm going to do. Although.... there is one more chance for a track run this year mid November. If i can get a hood, a headlight bucket and some slicks.....hmmm. I would if i could afford one Tim. Wife tightening the belt on me! Sparky, that would be great. I'll shoot you and email. Appreciate it. Nic - thanks and you're right. If i had been messing aroound, the ass would have swept around and made contact with the median as well. When it swung back around and i was facing the wall, i threw it in reverse because i knew i was going to clip it with the nose. I had the wheel's spinning backwards as the front hit the median but i don't think that helped much because those rear tires i had on really suck in the wet. Actually, they really sucked the night before at the track so i guess they just suck all around! haha. Aaron - you like it, eh? Custom, one of a kind Appreciate all the sympathy and kind words. Ah, what can ya do i guess. Just rebuild, right? Haven't had an accident since i got my drivers licence 18 years ago, guess i was just do. Hope it takes another 18 to have another! Actually, i'm hoping for NEVER!

Saturday night, 1am, dew just setting on the highway, 1 mile from home, taking it easy @ 50mph, with the tires i used the night before at the track still on the rear because i was too lazy to take them off Saturday afternoon. Slight right turn, ass broke a little left, corrected it then she spun just about all the way around in the opposite direction, started to get it back but the median was too close and caught the front. The Z was just dancing around as if on ice skates. Cop shows up about 30 seconds later and tells me that they're patrolling around this area because it's getting real slippery up on the top of the mountain. Yeah, i noticed. Looks i'll be needing a hood (now i'll get a 76-78 vented), left fiberglass headlight bucket and a bumper. Everything else is fine. The grill is shot also but i wanted to make something different anyway. Not too bad all in all but it just SUCKS. The IC is fine Sleeper, THANKS to the bumper. That's the first thing i thought of..."oh man. i hope i didn't crush the IC!?" Belive it or not, the fender is fine due to the fact the bucket was fiberglass. If it were metal, i think the fender would have definitely buckled. DAMN.

Damn. I would love to see it before i leave for the track in an hour or so. Call it incentive