at-jefft

Brad-ManQ45 - Thanks for the info, sounds like I'll be getting some flapper discs. Hmmm... I wonder if harbor freight sells those haha(I'm a poor college student, can ya tell?)

Scott_M67- I hadn't noticed the blue(haha), I'll try the cut-off wheel/flapper. Thanks. I'm using a .024 wire and I have a piece of bronze that I secure with a magnet on the back of my welds. ya, I took auto body in High school and learned a lot of what you said(through a lot of REALLY boring videos) about welding technique(always good to refresh though seeing that was over a yr ago). We mostly worked with 16ga metal though so the 20ga is still kinda new to me, Thanks for the info on light metal. I think Scott_M67 got it right, I'm probably overheating the metal with all my grinding.

Ive been doing some rust repair on my spare tire area. I have been cutting patches and butt welding them. Most of the process is going well but VERY slowly (couple hrs for a 1 inch patch, sound right?) My issue is that I'm 90% sure I'm getting good penetration (if not too much penetration) and I've had spots on both patches where the welds crack. The welds look good from the top and bottom, then I grind it flush and when I finish grinding I find a spot that has cracked? My guesses are: 1) That the patch is initially too tight(they hold them selves in place even before welding) and either the welding or grinding causes expansion and then cracks. 2) I'm grinding it down too quickly and again causing heat to weaken/expand the metal. 3) The patch and the body may not be flush in the spots that crack Anybody have any ideas on why some seemingly good welds are cracking? PIC(ask for more if needed):

From what I have read, that may be a bad idea. The heat will attract rodents, and moisture will condense on the warm metal.

Get a can of fogging oil and follow the directions on the can. It may be in the marine section of the parts store fyi.

Acid dipping? The consensus seems to be that our cars have too thin of metal to be dipped and still be structurally sound. A good media blasting is usually the way to go for mass rust removal.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html Your in for some fun. Probably the two hardest jobs on a Z. Do a search for "spindle pin" as well as "hub nut"

Agreed, I'm gonna say it will sell around 45k

Wow. Alright, who is taking bets on the final selling price?

Its not my thing but Its not terrible. It doesn't have a huge wing on the back, it has good paint, it doesn't look like its a rust bucket, its in good mechanical condition. There have certainly been many worse things done to s130s

PM responded TheMission- Ive checked with the local z guys I know and they don't have one. Craigslist comes up empty. I really with I had someone local but I just don't think its gonna happen. I'd like to spend around 100, I talked to someone who shipped a tank before and he said it would be about 50. That same person has a tank that he said he would sell for 50 if its in good condition. Problem is hes pretty busy and cant drop the tank for a while(hes cool with me finding other options). I'm coming home from college and would love to have a tank at home when I get back so I can drive my car for the first time in many many months.

I need a Gas tank shipped to 60126 that will fit my 260z. I believe that 70-75(possibly 76) tanks will work. Thanks, Jeff In case you're wondering the PO fiberglassed my entire tank to stop leaks and needless to say, it didn't work.

They don't ad ride height, They just put the control arms lower. I have ST springs and tokico hps, and haven't experienced bump steer without spacers. I would hold off on them and drive the car around(carefully) and decide if you need them.

Wow, those body lines really pop. Nice work.

did you bleed the MC? Air could be stuck in there.

Tried a chemical stripper? and no you don't need to remove all the paint. Just use a scuff pad to rough up paint so the primer can attach to it.

Id do some research, I think the 76 wont work. I'm looking for a gas tank(for 260z) and was told that 71-75 is what fits.

Great, I seem to remember someone saying there was a slightly longer stud from another car that works on our Z's. Anybody got a part number?

A Forum member was making them for a while. I beleive they are called stinger hoods, they are all fiberglass.

Damn, nice work. I really like the rear bodywork. How much money have you spent on por15? Lol, but seriously I wanna know.

Sweet. That's really good news.

Ok, so my lug nuts get too loose for comfort after short drives. The threads are pretty worn so I'd like to replace them. I looked in the FSM and couldn't find the procedure for replacing them. I Know they are just pressed in but I'm wondering what has to be taken off the car in order to get them out and the new ones in. For the fronts, I'm guessing the hub has to come off and the rotor separated. As for the rears, does the stub axle have to come out? Thanks, Jeff

Thanks for posting those photos, I will be referencing them when I do my floors.

I went into more depth on 9, Do you need me to separate my answer from my elaboration?

Name Jeff Sammarco Age 19 1. How would you rate your high school experience (academically, not socially) on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a piece of cake and 10 being four years of hell? 6 2. In your opinion, were the college prep/AP/honors classes at your high school harder, easier, or about the same as “regular†courses? harder 3. Did your high school experience prepare you well academically for college? yes 4. Looking back, are there any specific high school classes that you now think should have been more difficult? Which one(s)? nope 5. How demanding was your senior year of high school? Very demanding? Fairly demanding? Not demanding at all? fairly demanding 6. If your teachers had expected more of you in high school, would you have tried harder? Definitely. Probably, Probably not. Definitely not. probably not. 7. If you had a choice in high school, would you take the teacher with the reputation of being an easy grader (probably higher grade than you deserve, knowledge may or may not be acquired) or would you take the teacher known to be a tougher grader (definitely the grade you deserve, high level of knowledge certainly acquired)? Justify your choice. easy grader, I didn't think I would learn anything useful from either class. I learned much more useful things from electives I took for fun than any required course. 8. Do you regret that you didn’t take your high school classwork more seriously? Not at all. 9. Compare your academic expectations of what college courses would be like to the reality that you’ve experienced in your first year. Much easier that I expected. A little easier. About what I expected. Somewhat more difficult than I expected. Much more difficult. Give an example. College courses are much easier than I expected. I was told I would need to spend 2hrs studying for every hr of class, I have maybe studied an hr total for each class during the entire semester and have better (much) than a 3.00. In high school I didn't do my homework (except in Spanish, will explain later) I got A's on every test and usually got a B in the class when homework was factored in. I was completely incompetent in Spanish so I did my homework everyday and failed every test(One year I literally had a <60% average on tests, I squeaked by with a C for the two years I was forced to take it.