cygnusx1

So Gollum, she changed your battery because she knows how many diapers she is going to make you go get, and change, in a few more days.

Problem with a spacer is that you can't really have any pre-load. Not a terrible thing. Alternatively, I was thinking about some sort of heavy duty coil spring...and I mean heavy. If anyone can measure the "space" where the bellville washers sit (length and diameter of the pocket), I can look up a heavy duty die coil spring that might work.

If you can find a pic post it. I am curious. I remember something similar when I rebuilt a 200SX transmission a looong time ago. I have asked a few people that are running S30 5-speed units to test 5th to R for me and they can go straight down into reverse, like mine.

PM'd

Looking for a clean set. 240 260 or 280. PM me. Thanks

Yeah, not sure if my links work with your carbs but it clamps to an 8mm throttle shaft and uses 10-32 sized screw and nut, to attach to the bell crank of the carb. You are welcome to test fit a set.

The ebay aluminum ones are good. You just get to do your own QC on them. If you don't mind that, they are fine.

After some research: 77-79 - no lock-out from 5th into R 80-83 - mechanical lockout from 5th to R

Yeah me too. I saw a photo of a 5 speed taken apart and noticed a brass thing-a-ma-jig that hooked onto the selector rods. It looked like what I remember from rebuilding a transmission years ago. I had rebuilt an early 80's 200SX unit for my Z. I seem to remember that placing the shift lever into 5th caused a rocker to swing in the way of the 5-R selector rod so that it could not move into R. When dipping the shifter into neutral, that part would swing back out of the way. However...I don't see that part in any of the transmission diagrams for S30 or S130. Baffled...I may have to take this thing apart.

It's an early model.  My other early 5-speed has a definite lock-out.  You cannot go from 5 to R without dipping into neutral first.  I seem to remember from 20 years ago that there was a rocker type of mechanism inside the trans that achieved this.  I looked at the exploded views in the FSM already and can't seem to be able to visualize the part I was thinking of.  Maybe it was a different trans.  If it's the detent balls that achieve the lock-out, I may be able to fix it without pulling the trans back out. Thanks for that link!

I am not sure about the year of the trans but I assumed it was from an S30, based on some of the features, compared to the other later one's I've had..

Every trans that I have had so far had a lock out for reverse gear, where you have to pass into neutral before you can get into the reverse fork. This used trans that I just installed is allowing me to go from 5th to reverse. Mind you, I haven't driven it yet and it has been sitting for many, many years. The old oil was clean but the trans was very gunky and the shifter was "sticky" until I cleaned it and lubed it from the outside. With the car on stands and running, I ran it through all the gears, and it seems very smooth and quiet. I think it's a solid trans, other than the lockout. I can't remember if the trans has a "rocker" gate inside or is the lockout done with the ball-detents? It may start working again after I put new oil in the trans and drive it a little. Could it simply be sticking from sitting for so long?

 Yeah, on the weld where it had a pinhole, I grooved around the pinhole with a rat tail file and filled the groove with JBW.  2.5 years later and it's perfect.Â

I fixed two of them with a dab of JB Weld which has held up for two years now.

Never mind...I found a 3-row for $189....can't pass up that deal. I have had two of these before and both had pinholes in a weld line. Easy fix, for that price, I can tolerate it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-1978-NISSAN-280Z-3-Row-All-Aluminum-Radiator-CC634-/270871275236?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f112fa6e4&vxp=mtr

My L28ET Z needs a new radiator. I run a 2-row aluminum, ebay, budget unit in my NA 240Z with good results. Do you think I can get enough cooling with a 2-row aluminum unit in my turbo 280Z, or should I spend the extra $100 or so for a 3-row? The one that I have in there now is an old stock radiator, and has never had any trouble shedding heat.

How'd you fix it? Pics? Glad it worked out, but I want to see!!

 FWIW, you could attach a peice of 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum to the factory nub of a dead pedal, and then paint it black, and attach a Subaru dead pedal pad to the plate you made.  The subaru pads are flat plastic rectangles with ribs, and are held in place with two plastic rivets.  Easy to get too.Â

Taller gears for turbo L's = good.

 double post...sorry...wanted to add that they still aren't done!Â

21 years with the silver one. 3 with the red one.

Interesting observation. I have my car apart for various reasons so I measured the depth of the retainer ring inside both sides of the R200 with the OBX in it. I measured the depth from the outer oil seal to the snap-ring down inside the OBX splines. Amazingly, both sides are the same depth, and apparently at the proper depth for the longer of the two CV shafts! My side gears are still preloaded (no crushed washers) and are pushed against the outside of the case in their resting position, as they were when I built it a couple of years ago. Now I don't quite understand how the "short" and "long" 280ZX CV halfshafts were both able to snap in and not grind anywhere?  It looks lke there are two shine rings on the shorter CV shaft where the oil seal rides.  One  probably  from when they were in a stock R200 and one from being in the OBX.  They are about 1/4" apart.  Incidentally it seems that most of the drive train slop is coming from the AXIAL and RADIAL play of the CV shafts when they are in the differential.   More investigation to follow. Â

I noticed that the top tank of my rad was puffed out a bit, and was wet around the top seam. The cooling system was warm, not hot, but there was a good amount of pressure in the hoses. My first thought was head gasket, but then I thought that the Stant radiator cap should have allowed pressure to release before puffing the radiator, no? I just got the car out of winter sotrage but I doubt the coolant froze. I keep 50-50 mix in it, and it has been a very mild winter. It's one of those caps with the pressure relief lever. When I lifted the lever, it seemed like I heard a "crack" as if the cap rubber seal might have been stuck to the radiator neck, causing it NOT to allow bleeding. Anyhow, there is no oil in the water or water in the oil that I can see. Is it possible that a jammed radiator cap could cause a radiator to swell up? Â It seems to me that this is the only explanation. Â My mission now is to fine out IF the excess pressure came from normal heating-expansion with a stuck cap, or from a compression leak.Â

 Tube is hollow acting as a balance tube across all ports.  I am waiting for a follow up PM from Grretc.  If he is not interested, I will PM you.Â

I have a nice clean one that UPS dropped and split at the joiner tube. It can be welded to be as good as new. It's a clean break. Here is is the day before it went to UPS: