cygnusx1

Got the TIU for sure, and maybe the dropping resistors. I will Check tomorrow on the resistors. PM me.

Some of the Z cars had the "top gear" switch to activate/de-activate vacuum advance. In lieu of a switch when I went to a 5 speed that had no provision, I wired in a toggle on the console, and switched it "on" manually. I saw insignificant changes to the way the car operated. It was probably an "econo-enviro" device, not detectable from the driver's seat. Eventually I eliminated the switch. Some 5-speeds have one, or all of these: 1 ) Reverse switch. 2 ) neutral switch (perhaps for cruise control cut off) I never investigated the use of this switch. 3 ) Top gear switch.

Classic insurance. You pick the coverage amount. Nothing else compares. Is there a sticky about insuring these money pits? There should be. In this case...it's too late now, so I recommend that if you don't get any leeway with the ins co, fix it yourself, off the books.  Hire a body man yourself if you have to.

 The heat you used probably softened the locktite that was already there.  They should not be so tight that you need a torch anyhow.  Rusty maybe?Â

 Door latching system switched in 77 and up.  They also made changes to the rubber door seals along the way but I think those are backwards and forwards compatible.Â

It all sounds like a great build. I think your questions have been answered. I would suggest a light flywheel if you haven't gotten that yet.

 My red top is approaching 8 years old, and I have killed it flat at least twice.  It still kicks azz. Â

For originality, rubber would be cool, but why not, nylon, aluminum, or some engineered material. Then you can simply machine it, or drill and hacksaw it.

 Just don't look for fuel leaks with a match.  I mean, it works, just works too good.  Clive, your fuel leaks are diagnosed by the EPA.  Â

 I bought a brand new one today since UPS is buying.  I will keep the old one and definitely take your advice for the repair.  It's a clean break between 2nd and 3rd runners, bent linkage, and a dented velocity stack.Â

UPS Broke my triple Weber Cannon manifold, and now I need to source another one. HELP!!!

May the downforce be with you, and may you never need the tow hooks

Sweet! I was looking at those on ebay too. Your bro has class.

Are you trying to insult lawyers.

Theres a nice Smithy 1220 XL a few hours away from me, on a stand with drawers, for $1200.  Measuring the minivan bed....

Smithy's are nice. I forgot about them. I'll be looking for after Christmas sales. That HF unit looks like a good machine for the money too.

I am thinking about getting a milling machine for my garage. A bench unit would work for me. Although I would love a large floor standing one like I used to work with, I don't have the space. I don't want to spend much more than a grand either, so it would be used, or a new small unit for my bench. I like this one so far, because it's large enough for what I want to do, and cheap enough. It can also be converted to CNC in the future. Any ideas or recommendations? http://littlemachine...gory=1387807683

Interesting. I run the 151's on my 240Z L28, and have always battled a progression issue. However with gradual throttle, they work fine. If you spike the throttle below 2800rpms, you get a bog. I always considered this an accel pump issue, and plan to mess around with the accel jets. Here is an interesting observation. I looked down the progression ports and set all the butterflies with their front edge EXACTLY lined up with the front edge of the first progression hole. Then I started the car. It idled at about 2000 rpms. I had to move the butterflies top edge quite a way forward (closed), away from the progression ports, to get a regular best lean idle. This corroborates with people having to drill new progression holes in the 151's. From a designers perspective, Weber cast a pretty large, accessible well for the progression ports. Â This tells me that they left room for experimentation, because they knew that each application would require hole location experimentation. The position of the butterflies at idle will vary depending on timing, idle vacuum, and jetting.Â

 Mine is about 6 years old and has never had an issue.  Knock on wood.  I don't remember exactly how I wired it, but I did do a separate ground from all the MS stuff, and I wired it to come on when MS turns on the fuel pump.  You don't want to turn it on BEFORE the engine is cranking.  It says so in the manual.  Heating it up first, and then hitting it with damp, cool combustion gasses during cranking, is baaaad for the sensor.   From the manual: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf 5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.†When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns. 6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended wiring schematics. It is NOT a good idea to connect the LC-1 permanently to 12V and switch it on with a separate switch before the vehicle is started. Depending on the climate and the sensor position in the exhaust, condensation water can form in the exhaust pipes. This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock can permanently damage the sensor.

BTW, the idle and progression ports never really "shut off", they just become less of a factor as load increases. They are however, still a viable factor at all rpms, especially at lower loads.

I hear good things about the handling and dynamics of the Z4.

Quoting myself: "...if you are keeping the majority of the suspension components, and stock mount points"

Like I said, comfort and handling, part ways somewhere along the line, due to the non multi-link suspension. I suppose everyones level of comfort and handling is different though. Oh and comfort in CA is different than comfort in the Northeast. Our roads get NASTY. Also defining "New Car" would be much more helpful.

Can hardly make an S30 stick, AND ride like a newer car, both at the same time. With the S30 it's pretty much one or the other if you are keeping the majority of the suspension components, and stock mount points. All this is without even mentioning the rigidity of the chassis. It's just not going to come easily. If you want it to pull 1.1G you can pretty much bet it's going to ride like a chuck wagon. If you want it to ride like a camry, it won't stick to the road, or have any dynamic abilities. That's the short story.

Mine fought me for a couple of days originally. All of a sudden I was getting massive spark. I have no idea what I did, but it started working. My wiring was correct and I had flipped the VR sensor wires a dozen times. Fast forward 5 years and I found an intermittent connection in one of my solder joints...could it have been that all along? Probably.