cygnusx1

I am not doing the conversion but I thought this might be a good way to do it if one needed to modernize. If I remember correctly, there are 1/2" foam/rubber blocks that keep the tank from touching the body. You might double the thickness of those pads to about 1" or so to make room for the fittings. I think the filler neck will still reach the filler tube. The application would be for making a 240Z or 260Z tank into a "fuel injection" tank, or giving the 280Z tank better surge capacity.

From what I understand, you cut a hole in the top of the tank, and screw this in. No welding. I am not sure how it seals. http://www.massfloefi.com/fuel-supply-system-stand-alone-fuel-pumps-c-2_21/255-liter-per-hour-internal-fuel-pump-p-57

Those cam scrapes are a product of the de-burring process. They ground off some of the casting flash, after the casting was done at the factory. May as well rebuild it while it's apart. You can measure the pistons and the bores to see if they are reusable or you can spring for a full rebuild kit. I got mine from www.rpmrons.com. I sent the head out to a local machine shop to get new valves, seats, and a complete checkup.

Two vertical gussets in a "V" formation. The point of the V should lay on or past the midpoint of the tube section close to the LCA bushing end, and the legs of the "V" should radiate towards the inner bolt holes for the ball joint. They should be welded all the way along, and then the part should be stress relieved. Brittle metals have no place in this piece. This would leave room in between the "V" for the sway bar end link. This is just one way to do it. There are many. I wish I still had Solidworks here.

Thats exactly where I figured it would break. Just closing the tube with a cap, or pinching it, and welding the end of it to the plate would have helped a bit. A vertical gusset, top and bottom, is the way to go there

I think I'm gonna need more power in my Z...and a LOT more downforce.

I agree, you really need to make 100% sure that all the parameters/settings/constants/corrections are in the ballpark before you play with theoretical VE numbers. Don't gloss over the MS manual. Read it, question it, understand it; EVERY setting counts.

Rent for a while. Owning is not as good as it used to be.

Joe, does the car have a wideband?

ROFL! Now just hang some fenders and doors and you got a car! Nice.

Porsche snobs? Our Hudson Valley PCA chapter is nothing but down to earth guys...snobs is the furthest thing you would think about them... OTOH, you get to find out which people in your circle are a-holes, when you get a P-car or Bimmer. I have had, what I thought were good people, thumb their noses at me after I picked up my 330. Amazing, how thin, people can be. Not to mention how people tend to drive offensively towards you, when you are in one...if you know what I mean. Mike, post pics of the car when it materializes!

No wideband....makes it real tough to tune, and real easy to blow up your engine.

I was under the impression that steel wheels were tougher than cast/forged aluminum wheels. Of course it comes down to design of the wheel and quality of the materials. I always figured cop cars use steelies so that if they have to run curbs, the rims won't shatter. I think they can take more abuse and survive.

I have driven a street C3 with around 1000hp...looking over the hood was not possible, the engine was too big. lol. Here, maybe this can give you a feel for the S30...oh and the sound of the straight six....not in a Miata.

Install the check valve that is supposed to be there. Make sure you face it to allow flow towards the engine.

Z's vary so much from build to build and are so condition dependant, it's hard to pin down. Sitting right in front of the rear wheels is a cool feeling that you often don't experience in many cars.

At a certain point it makes more sense, to take off the timing cover, than to waste more time playing "mumbly peg" with the tensioner. If the tensioner does not slide in, then it is either cocked, or the spring got hung up behind the plunger. Just a picture of what you are dealing with, in case you haven't seen it.

NASA has a horn woofer with about a 13 foot diameter flare. They play super low frequencies at high amplitudes to test satellites for their ability to handle launch vibrations. You could probably shake the other car apart, and possibly disable the driver with that one.

Mike, are you a member of COG? My brother and his wife do a lot of rides with the Concours groups.

A client of mine had these in his car, wired on an A-B switch with the factory horns. They sounded GREAT. http://www.jcwhitney.com/chrome-dual-trumpet-120db-air-horns/p2008989.jcwx?filterid=j1

Not sure if it matters but is the coil the same resistance as the prior coil that ran the tach well?

Nothing wrong with a good old set of incandescent candles...just give them good voltage.

Wasn't it Vildini Motorsports that did the cool Z dash?