cygnusx1

Black will hide the detail of the wheel too much IMHO. Gunmetal, Gold, or Silver.

I will take the brakes apart again today for the third time....I'll try to measure the installed diameter of the shoes with the drums off, to see if it comes close to the measured ID of the drum. After some research it seems that the shoes changed width from 76 to 77 but I think the drum diameters remained the same.

The cylinders have dual pistons on this car but that does not mean they are correct I suppose. I'll check the wear marks on the shoes.

I ordered the performance shoes from MSA and installed them on the 77 I am working on. I used the inboard plugs to access the adjusters, to tighten up the shoes until they began to drag in the drums. I applied the brakes, pulled on the handbrake several times and re-checked the adjusters. Test driving the car, the brakes feel good overall. The problem is that the handbrake barely holds the car on any slight incline. I checked the handbrake cable tension and it starts to move the mechanical shoe levers after the first click at the handle. I can pull the handle almost vertical with very little parking brake action. Could this indicate that the shoes are not contacting the drum face properly? The drums are in spec. MSA had called me after I placed the parts order to make sure I ordered/wanted 77 shoes because they said there were differences from year to year. Maybe they sent the wrong shoes? Any ideas? After a spirited drive, the rotors are coming back around 300F and the drums are reading about 120F. I just feel if they are so bad at being handbrakes, they might not be doing much with the pedal brakes either.

I am sure I am not the first to try this, but it worked. After you cut a zip tie, you have a very sharp, sneaky, edge that will always come back to bite you in a bad way. I just got bit by a hidden one, and decided to try to file it down. That didn't work very well, so I grabbed the lighter from my toolbox, that I use for shrink wrap. Hit the sharp end of the cut zip tie for a few seconds with flame, and you get a nice smooth ball instead of a knife edge. Easy, and way better than sliced up skin!

Cool, Primadonna is in my area. Maybe I'll get to see it.

Very clean project. Can't wait to see the progress!

Really? NYC of all places. You sure it wasn't EvilZ?

Vacuum cleaner, duct tape, and some vacuum hose to stuff in an wiggle around.

Is he aware of the bushings needed to compensate for the bolt diameters, or does he refer to the fit of the ring onto the housing?

Here is what I have learned, and I think it trips up many people trying to combat this. If you don't/can't completely cut the fuel off during decel, then don't simply adjust it lean during decel, as this seems to make it worse. When my carbs popped on decel after finding the best-lean-idle, I added a touch of fuel at idle and the popping all but disappeared. I applied this to my MS tuning and it had the same effect. My firmware currently does not have fuel cut on overrun.

Weird numbers on your VE table.... Your VE ranges from 2 to 150 or so. That just seems strange to me.

Not the spark voltage, the 12volt supply that charges the coils.

I think you need to reduce the table temperature range to 160F to get it to come out of warmup mode. Also make sure you are getting good strong voltage to the coils when it's running.

I need to upgrade my MS firmware...I can't do "real" decel fuel cut with my version. It only cuts fuel when it sees negative TPSdot instead of off-throttle decel. I cleaned up the popping, instead by assuring about 13.5:1 AFR during maximum vacuum. Leaner, it pops and richer, it pops.

Checked out the Datalog finally. So far I do see you running too lean for MY taste. I would stop screwing around with 14.7 in cruise and try 13.7 as your leanest areas. Then see how that feels. Second of all, I saw your coolant temp was in the 180 degF or more range, but the log showed that the car was still running in warmup mode. !? You also have AE set to 100% TPSdot and a threshold of 1000 %/s, which may never give you any AE at all.

Follow this diagram exactly. Shield ONLY gets attached at one end. In this case, EDIS Pin 7. He might be using S5 as a terminal for the SAW wire. I am not familiar with the relay board.

Clive's EvilZ with LS1 power in Blood Red spilled over carbon. Mike's "Buzz" 8000+rpm, cam'd, ported, bored, balanced, forged, 11:1 compression, triple weber, electromotive spark, L28 in Blue Flame. My turbo powered L28 with MSII and EDIS in Arctic Silver. Where's Clive? Photo at the NYZCC BBQ, 9/11/11

I agree that some of the AFR areas are a bit lean. I have recently begun to throw fuel efficiency ideas out the window, and richened up my maps. It runs much better that way. 14.2:1 would be about as lean as my setup will smoothly tolerate under cruise. Everywhere else go rich or go home....I will try to get a look at your datalog and msq files tonight. It has been a rough few days so I haven't had any downtime.

I originally ran shielded wiring for all of the EDIS stuff, and all of my fuel pump wiring. I think, one of my solder joints in the SAW wire had a pointy spike in it, that poked through the shrink wrapping, and grounded it to the shield.

If fuel pressure was dropping out, AFR's would reflect that. Can you run some datalogs and post them? Also run a calibration cycle on your WBO2 sensor if you can.

Yeah SAW wire was giving me intermittent connections, so the car was going from 0-btdc to whatever the Map called for at random spurts. Definitely caused all of the symptoms you describe.

Similar, I suppose, but those are far from fouled enough to cause trouble. My plugs never all look identical...that is something I got over with some help from meditation J/K it's probably related to injector balance, air flow balance, and condition of valve seals.

Wow, EXACTLY the same symptoms that I got last week, when I thought I blew my engine again....let me go find the post. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101991-half-power-sputtering-turbo-surging/page__view__findpost__p__955106__fromsearch__1

It was the wiring. It turned out that when the EDIS plug was unplugged for continuity testing, the wires were good. When it was plugged in, it was no good. Intermittent connection on the signal to MS. I hate intermittent stuff....