cygnusx1

Maybe a regular turbo injector or N/A injector can be wired up to open during WOT. I am not sure but it may overheat the solenoid by leaving it energized for that amount of time....anyone? It really would be a simple cheap way to get mixtures back on track--if it can be done. Much less $ than an AIC. Especially since most of us have old N/A Z parts laying around anyhow.

Wow nice weight ON3GO. 2598 is lighter than I thought for a 280. I assume you have no A/C. Did you strip anything off the car to get it that light?

We wanted to see how the BEGI FMU regulates fuel pressure at different boost levels and onset gains. The term "onset gain" is a bit misleading as I could not really see changes the RATE of fuel pressure rise by changing gain values (T number of turns). This could also be a function of the semi-crude gauges on both the compressor and the fuel rail. Hardware: BEGI 2022 FMU (2025 w/o spring) Walbro Pump (Holley HLY-12-920) from Summit Racing 16g fuel pump wire Stock 280Z sized fuel lines and filter. Base Fuel Pressures: Vacuum Connected FP=32psi Vacuum Disc'n'cted FP=42psi Pressure Supplied to FMU and FPR from compressor 15psi T=onset screw turns IN 2.5T = 51psi 3T = 55psi 3.5T = 59psi Pressure Supplied to FMU and FPR from compressor 10psi T=onset screw turns IN 2.5T = 46psi 3T = 48psi 3.5T = 50psi I hope this helps you tune your FPR. Don't take my numbers absolutely as my gauges could be off by a couple of PSI in either direction. Oh and with the onset gain fully closed, I hit 100+psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost. All these tests were done at idle so fuel capacity did NOT come into play.

Clifton those cars on your site are really nice. The white 240Z must be amazing to drive! Thanks for the info on the SuperV. So if I truly have one, and I am sure I do since that's what my bud said it was, I have plenty of room for power expansion in the future. Great. I cant wait for the programmable fuel system and motor buildup in the future.

Well, I guess that's what matters; that it runs good. Anyhow anything with "Super" in front of it has got to be good enough.

Bast, my engine has NO leaks. I changed ALL the gaskets and used sealant on them as well. I didn't ever want to get my picasso motor paint job dirty. So then I must be getting blowby. I do have a vented catch can ready to go in. I just cant find room for it in the engine bay. I also have brandy-new Viton valve seals on my tool bench just waiting for winter. You know what I will try to do tonight....I will set the compressor up and see if I can graph the fuel curve pressure vs boost every 2psi using the BEGI and MS excel.

How much oil use is "normal" for a 110K motor boosted to 14psi? I seem to have to add a quart every 2-3K. The intercooler lines are bone dry and the plugs are fairly clean so I think it's just crankcase blow-off into the PCV. Yes the intake manifold is a bit sticky inside. I dont see it going out the tailpipe but I definately think my valve seals are tired based on the downhill smells. Normal for an old dog?? EDIT, the water and oil are not mixing.

Well, maybe but a TO4B "Super V" actually exists. http://fastsaab.itgo.com/t04.htm I guess the Super V isn't just a reference to a specific trim number? Hmm, I also found this: http://hyundaiperformance.com/forums/topic.php?t=5181

Hehe, fair enough, well I bought a rebuilt turbo and thats what it is supposed to be. I trust that it is a good selection for what I am doing. (14psi now and 18psi later) I wouldn't know the difference between a Super-V and A SuperDooper since it's the first aftermarket turbo I've driven. I just want to know that I can brag about having a "SUPER-V" and know what I am talking about at the same time.

I believe that's what I have in my Z. Does anyone have any info or maps for this beast? It seems to pull HARD after about 3000rpm but seems a little less powerful than the T3 below 3000rpm. I am just curious as to how it compares to other trims. Thanks.

I love my quiet P90A.

I am glad to see that both my ideas make sense. I really like the next step you took it to by eliminating another grainger valve. I would just be wary that the FMU wont do anything until the wastegate opens. So, in theory, you could be 1psi shy of max boost at 5700rpm and still be lean (no FMU action). I think that if you use the RPM switch, you can put the FMU back on the manifold without a grainger valve but I like your idea nonetheless. I once told my boss that a lazy engineer is a good engineer because we find easier ways to do the same thing. He didn't laugh. To the guys that have already sucessfully switched to the ultimate solutions like programmable setups and the later ECU's all this may sound like petty stuff, but hey, it works. I am going to try hooking my FMU after the wastegate grainger as well. Good thinking Baast. EDIT: On my way home from work today I was thinking about how you have the FMU in the wastegate line. I would be a tiny bit concerned because the FMU allows boost signal to leak via that bleed screw (onset gain). That, in effect, is a signal leak to the wastegate which can change the opening behavior of the wastegate. I dont really think its a big deal but it is something worth bringing to attention.

I was at a car show this summer and this lovely woman would not leave the side of my Z. She could not keep her eyes off of it. The show was emptying out and she stood by because she wanted to hear it take off. -That darned gold ring on my finger!

Yes I know that Nissan looked to the Toyota, 911, and the Jag for design cues for the 240Z. Maybe it's just me, I find it an easier pill to swallow when a designer copies something to create a lower cost alternative. We are looking at HIGH END vehicles here taking cues from our "budget" cars! Look at those quarter windows. They scream 240Z. Flattery, pure flattery.

I have witnesses!!! I came up with that statement about 15 years ago!!! Too Funny

Hey, anyone notice all of the "concept" and "supercars" that all the manufacturers are flashing to the media lately? Maybe it's just me but I think all the designers are looking to all generations of Z for inspiration. Take a look: UMM Can you spell 350Z bite!!! http://www.conceptcarz.com/folder/vehicle.asp?car_id=8230 NICE ROOF LINE COPY CAT!!! http://www.conceptcarz.com/folder/vehicle.asp?car_id=8228 OK Maybe they looked at a Z also... http://autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=100655 I bet that quarter window fits in my 280Z!!! http://www.autoweek.com/files/specials/galleries/astonmartin/pages/index.htm Here is a nice body kit for a 350Z..... http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=100479 What a bunch of copycats!!!! http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/13848/normal_PB070055~1.jpg

Hehe Poor fuel system (playing smallest violin)? What about the poor engine, chassis, trans, driveshafts, rear end, and wallet? All of which are working harder than the fuel pump at 80psi. I guess bigger injectors would work but, at least in my case, I can choke the motor with fuel at 13-14psi boost with the BEGI if I wanted to. However, it still it drives like factory off boost. I am done modifying my Z until next year or two when I go out looking for a programmable ECU, injectors, pistons, rings, headgasket, rod bolts, head studs, and stronger drivetrain parts....at which point I will be needing some sort of unibody bracing as well....see where it goes? It is so thrilling to creep up on total destruction only to get away clean for one more day!

Yes, they are similar but it is not a 77-79 if the ratios are not an exact match. I calculated the ratios in my trans by counting teeth on all the gears. Also, the bell housing that was on my 5-speed did not bolt up to the L28 block. I had to swap bell housings to make it work in a Z. My 1st gear is significantly lower than the ZX trans. It is too low for a turbo motor but probably good for a N/A. If anyone needs some low gearing in 1st, this is the tranny.

Yeah similar ratios but the funny thing is that it's a Nissan trans not a B/W. Very strange because the guy said he pulled it himself out of an early Z under warranty when it was brand new and ended up taking it home and storing it in his shed all those years. It boggles me because there are no early Z's with 5 speeds. I lost touch with the guy that gave me the trans but I know for sure thats what he said. I worked with him for a few years at a car dealership. I fixed what had caused it to warranty before I put it in my car. Bottom line is that it has one of the lowest F series 1st gears I've ever seen. It was fine for my NA motor but for the Turbo it's too quick to even build boost.

This is a 5-speed I got free from a guy who claimed he pulled it out of a 240Z under warranty in the early seventies as a Datsun Mechanic. The tranny looked very clean and I had to swap my 4-speed bell housing onto it to make it fit the back of my L28 280Z engine. The trans is stamped with the normal nissan 5speed, F series, ID numbers on its side. Here are the ratios: Counter Gear 32 teeth Mainshaft Gear 21 teeth 1st -3.592 2nd -2.057 3rd -1.361 4th -1 5th -0.812 I am running it in my 280Z Turbo right now with the 3.54 rear and the gap from 1st to 2nd is too wide and 1st is VERY low. I did TONS of detective work to try to ID this tranny by ratios and the closest I found is a Nissan 720 Truck 4x4 Diesel I think I will be shopping for a good 81-83 factory 5speed non-turbo trans to replace this one. Anyone know wtf this trans is from or anyone want to trade for 81-83 5-speed, non borg-warner???

I cut a hole in the stock ZXT AFM>Turbo rubber boot. I put a "bulkhead fitting" in the boot so I had a place to connect the BOV vent tube. Look in mcmaster.com for bulkhead fittings. I am using a TurboXS Race Type bypass valve. It is totally silent.

Yes, I set the FMU with the compressor hooked up to both FMU and stock regulator now. When I get past that 2.5 turn mark on the FMU adjuster, the fuel pressure gauge moves very quickly. At about 14psi and 3.5 turns in, I get about 65psi fuel, which bogs it down badly when driving under full boost. I think I will creep it up from 2.5 turns a bit at a time to get it as rich as it will go without bogging. I need to get a wideband. I already have a gtech. I also put in brand new stock injectors when I did the swap so they may be flowing a bit more than yours do. I also run with the O2 sensor connected and do see the ECU LED light blink as I cruise around town which indicates closed-loop mode. I may be running lean which explains me being able to just about keep up with that '96 Viper. I guess I should start being more considerate to my pistons and add a tad more fuel.

OK I will count the turns the way it is now. I turned it OUT one full turn tonight after I found out that the "65psi@14psi" I had set earlier today made it smoke and bog on boost. I took it for a spin after "leaning out" the FMU bleeder by one full turn and holy-moly its soooo fast. -OK right now it sits at 2.5 full turns from all the way out - Runs Strong -I had it set to 3.5 full turns from all the way out (65psi@14psi) - Too Rich Yes, I remember stuffing the restrictor in the boost sense line. I will confirm but I am sure it's there. Yeah well I thought I explained that one. I was setting 45psi at 14psi boost by feeding the 14psi artificially to the FMU ONLY. I was NOT pressurizing the stock regulator when I was adjusting the FMU <(my bad). Now I DO add pressure to BOTH and thats how I set the 65psi@14psi today.

Baast, you said you settled on 65 Psi fuel pressure at your peak boost when you last hit the dyno. Well I went out to the garage tonight and plugged in the compressor set to 15psi and set the FMU bleeder to give me 65psi in the rail. I put the 15psi pressure on the FMU and the stock regulator simultaneously then adjusted the FMU bleeder. I took it for a spin and it bogged (black smoked) like crazy under boost. If I set it to like 45psi at 15psi, it runs great under boost. Strange.....I wonder what the difference in our cars is. Any idea?

I just came from the 1000+ car weekly Bear Mountain, NY show and was behind a 96 Viper on one of the "ten best roads" in the USA. Route 6/202 from the Bear Mountain bridge to the Ansville Circle. It's about 5 miles or so of twisty up and downs along side a rocky mountain side over the Hudson River. There was some show traffic on the road so we kept it on this side of sanity. The Viper would slow up to let the traffic ahead and then punch it from about 30 mph. I was doing the same thing sitting in 2nd gear just about 3000rpm and punching it along with him. No surprise he pulled away but not very fast. I was thoroughly impressed with my little Z. In the turns it was most even - as far as carrying speed. He did NOT pull away in the twistys. In fact by the bottom of the road he stopped trying in turns and waited for straights to pull the fast ones on me. The Mustang behind us, also from the show, was watching and attempting to participate. It was not even in the game. It always caught me when the speed sprints were over. Forget the turns, he had NO chance. I was pleasantly surprised by the improvement in my brakes as they warmed up too. The KVR pads and the Powerslots do a fine job in the 4-pistons once they warm up good. Fun Fun Fun. The road: http://www.hvnet.com/FEATURES/images/getout05.jpg Here are the Vipers Stats: http://www.supercars.net/cars/1996@$Dodge@$Viper%20RT+10g.html