S130Z
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Posts posted by S130Z
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Thanks Paul! I had done a few searches and came up with nothing. Glad to hear that it's part of the casting.
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I was in the process of assembling my turbo motor when I ran into what I think is a damaged rear main cap. Here are some pics.
(the camera was a little out of focus)
What do you guys think? This is my first L28 Ive torn down so I don't know.
Thanks,
Adam Silver
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It's a little hazy, I will try and clear it up with some Mother's.
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You can get them pretty cheap from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Thats where I picked up my cotton wheels and polishing compounds.
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You can use a bench grinder with a cotton wheel? I suppose it makes sence, does it adapt together?
Yeah, they make cotton wheels that go in place of a grinding wheel. You just need to take off the safety covers.
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Yeah, I have the motor torn down and parts at the machine shop. I was kinda board and thought it would be nice to have a polished valve cover. I do think it was completely worth my spare time though.
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It definitely helps to have good tools too. A bench grinder with a cotton wheel would have been nice, but you gotta work with whatcha got!
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Well I just got finished polishing and painting my valve cover. This was not one of the more fun things that I have done with the ZX. I started off with a 220 grit and worked my way up to 1000. Then I used 2 different grits of polishing compounds(red then grey) on a cotton wheel hooked to an electric drill. I also used my dremel for some of the tight spaces. Although I missed a bit of small spots, but it looks good enough for me. It took me a total of about 7 hours of labor, that includes the 2 times I dropped it and had to resand some spots. I have not gone with an aluminum hand polish yet, so I'm sure it can get a little bit more shinny.
Here are some Pics.....
I have great respect for the people who get these looking 100% as this takes a lot of labor and patience. I had a very little idea of how to polish aluminum when I started, but I'm sure if I could do it again, it would end up looking better.
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here is my car:
Your ZX looks absolutely stunning! How many miles are on that beauty?
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Check around where the mannifold connects to the cylinder head. It could be leaking around that area. Go back and tighten all of your bolts holding on both the mannifolds, I had that probblem when I changed over mine.
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks? That definitely sounds like whats going on. With throttle open, it's sending fuel through to keep he car running. But under vacuum, it could be leaking, causing no fuel to be consumed during idle.
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Well i wired this up last night and im going to be using the ebc valve that diy sells. ill let ya know how it works!!!
Subscribed, keep us posted, I am very anxious to see this work after so long.
Adam Slver
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I just pulled the motor out of my turbo ZX yesterday. There really isn't that much extra to do to get the tranny out at the same time. You just unbolt the drive shaft from the flange on the diff, then slide the drive shaft out of the tranny. Support the trans with a jack, remove all connections from the trans (I think there are about 3 things), then take the transmission mount bolts out from each side. Its pretty easy.
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Go back and check ALL of your grounds. Which EFI system are you using?
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Very nice!
Where did the flares come from?
Those flares came from the tedious working hands of the JNJ car builder himself. So what are you planning on doing next?
P.S. - I won't say anything bad about the flares.
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By the way, I just got Maximum Boost by Corky Bell in the mail. I am sure this book should clear some of my thoughts up.
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Shoot me a PM and I'll see what I can help you out with. I have a buddy(he is a member here, JNJDragracing) that does this stuff all day long. PM me and I'll give you some more info.
By the way, what part of Columbia are you in?
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If you have NO money to spend, then that all makes sense.
In the case of a standard L28ET install, there is no sense in moving to 3" intercooler piping when one has to transition from the turbo outlet size of about 2" to a 3" pipe and back down to a 240SX throttle body. Plus, the bends on a 3" pipe to fit are generally going to be tighter. I think calculations down to the last tiny bit cost too much in time, money, and worry, especially when it's easy to overlook something and end up unknowingly making a sacrifice that puts you right back where a thoughtless setup would have - this is something along the lines of cost/benefit analysis.
Use the ideas gathered from the calculations and do what you can to stick close to ideal - fewest transitions (make them long and smooth when possible), smoothest bends, best fits (ie fit pipe to pipe at silicone connections rather than having a huge gap "bandaided" by the silicone hose).
I had been thinking about all of these aspects before I had posted this thread. The main killer in this situation is running an intercooler. The intercooler completely ruins the pipe diameter relevance.
I have been seeing people running a fairly small diameter pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler, then having a larger pipe on the other side to match up with their TB. What is the reason for this?
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Choosing the Correct Intercooler/Charge Pipe Size
I have been thinking of this topic for quite some time now and after running a few searches, I feel like this would be good to discuss. There must be a precise and correct pipe size for your specific application, correct? Depending on the number of cylinders, the size of your intake ports, and size turbo you are running, etc... you should have a specific sized pipe for maximum flow.
Having too large of piping can yield boost lag. Your turbo is trying to fill the pipe instead of feeding the cylinders. The longer it takes to fill the piping, the longer it will take to achieve peek boost in the cylinder. On the other hand, have too small of piping can have a negative effect too. Although you decrease boost lag by being able to pressurize your entire system faster, you loose high flow capabilities.
There must be a mathematical equation that can give you a specific sized piping. Thus giving you maximum flow. I would like to hear some ideas from others on this as I have a few thoughts in my head about how to calculate something like this.
Last question, from where are you getting your PSI readings from? Are you measuring from the intake plenum, or from an individual runner. I ask this because it makes sense to me that the closer to the cylinder you are, the more accurate of a reading you are going to get.
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Well my ballast was not my problem, it was the "you get what you pay for" part. I bought cheap bulbs and one blew out. I will get pics up soon as the new bulb comes in.
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Put me down for a rear! I know this was posted quite some time ago, so are you still trying to make them?
Thank you Mr. Hodges.
in Non Tech Board
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I got mine yesterday, and they came in a RITZ Cracker box!