S130Z
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Posts posted by S130Z
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If you also want to see some historical sites, I would greatly advise you to stop in Charleston, SC. The downtown area is amazing and we also have the largest bridge on the east coast! There's not much car craze down there, but there are a few Z guys in town. I will let you know if I can think of anywhere else.
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"First, I assumed a spherical cow....."
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Well I am going to have to pass on your offer, unless you want to meet me half way? Thanks for the offer though.
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I thought about it, but.......I am trying to get ZeeYah to ship me one from Kentucky. And a new Pull-A-Part is opening up in 2 weeks, so I am going to scope that out first. What would be your price on this motor, just wondering?
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It's a Nise rock, so don't take it for Granite.
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I am looking for a turbo motor over on the east coast. I will take a complete motor but I really just need the Long Block with exhaust manifold, turbo oil line, distributor, and water pump. I just went to go look at a turbo parts car today but it ended up being a turbo model slick top with a N/A motor in it.
I am going to rebuild the motor hoping not to have to bore it.
If you are willing to ship and I can afford it I will ship, if not, I won't drive farther than Atlanta or mid- North Carolina.
Thanks,
Adam Silver
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So did anybody know that Donzi made a 280ZX? I'm not kidding!
For those who get angry because they came in the thread too late and can't see the ebay page, here you go.... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Donzi+280+ZX
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Say you removed the electronics on the turbo and replace the driving motor that controls the A/R with one that can be controlled via MegaSquirt. Then you set your parameters to suit your needs.
That is a great thread by the way.
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But what I am getting at is being able to tune for the best range of boost through the RPMs. Setting your variables in MegaSquirt to allow both low boost at cruise and quick response under WOT. Sure you can manually rig the settings to stay constant, but what fun is that?
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So I did some research on VGT's (Variable Geometry Turbos) and it changes the Aspect Ratio to create more boost at low RPM and to promote less of a "choking" effect on the engine at high RPM's. There are some cases when a wastegate is not needed as the A/R car be changed to allow for only a maximum amount of boost. Although there have been some cases in overboost without a wastegate.
My concern with this is that these Holset turbos are designed for quite a bit of boost. Fixed A/R Holsets applied to the L28 have problems overboosting as it is. I do not believe that this would be a good way to controll the boost although it would be interesting to control and see what low RPM boost numbers can be achieved.
So now the tables have turned twords the aspect of max spool times with the adjustable A/R and being able to control this via MegaSquirt.
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I have been turbo shopping for a couple weeks now and I keep coming across the Holset turbos with the electronic wastegate, specifically model HE351Ve from 07-08 Cummings. As I will be running MegaSquirt on my future turbo motor I keep wondering if anyone has wired this controller into MegaSquirt.
My question is not can it be done, because I am sure it is possible. But has anyone tried this and what results were concluded. I have read up on boost controllers being routed through the vacuum lines in the mechanical wastegates that are wired into MegaSquirt. But I have not seen anything on HBZ about this. Here is a pic of the turbo that I am talking about(threads are boring without pictures).
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Please don't! I have seen more then one honda guy do that and its just hideous! The Z deserves better then that!
I did find it to be a bit ricer when I thought about it, but I am no longer wanting to go through the trouble of routing the I/C over the fan.
It would be way easier to just install an electric fan rather than trying to route piping over the stock fan. I am sure there is a reason why every one is running the electric fan, I'm thinking it's because of "simplicity."
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I am honestly considering this solution. Cut the hood just enough so the hood closes closest around the intercooler piping and then line the whole in the hood with rubber like what goes on the edge of doors. Then you have an interesting piece of piping exposed to show off. That is what I would do.
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My ZX would do this same exact thing. It would only happen during the summer after I swapped to the non webbed intake and if the car ran for more than 10 minutes. It ended up being vapor lock in the fuel lines. Good luck.
-Adam Silver
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You can put that cam in the head, just check your wipe pattern. Make sure you have the correct sized lash pads for that cam. If you use the N-42 head than your compression is going to less then 10.5:1 as it has a 47cc chamber instead of the 38cc chamber that the Maxima n47 head has. Good luck!
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Flat tops in a F54 block with a Maxima N47 head would yield some good numbers for you, about 10.5:1. My two cents is that this is not the best idea at your conditions. Good luck and I hope you find a good tuner!
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I'll trade you one for a long block:mrgreen:....please!
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If worst comes to worst you can weld up the puck and attach an external wastegate for more control. Sorry your still getting boost creep, I hope you get things squared out.
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Check out this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143124&highlight=HID
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Big Phil has and his problem was the whole being too small. Watch his video and try grinding it out. Pull the turbo out and see what you can mustard up.
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I have the ebay housing($35) with the ebay HID kit(5000k) but my housing have the black background. I have to say that there is terrible light spread and visibility is terrible. I also have 30% film on the front windshield to weaken my vision. If you have the money, invest in a good quality housing.
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Is there a recommended solder to use? I know there are many types such as rosin core, high tech rosin w/ silver, clear flux solder?
WTB: Rebuilt T-3 trubo for 280ZX, NY
in Parts Wanted
Posted
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144811
He's got one.