S130Z

i do now have the box shaped sensor because i found a different tb with the same style sensor and plug, it is still the 240sx st and sensor. I did speculate that the 240sx sensor might cause some problems so i swapped it out with my origional sensor to check to see if it made a difference but it did not, i double checked by using 3 other stock sensors just to make sure it was not bad. i did find that i had a vacume leak that was giving me some problems and i fixed that. I did have a missfire problem start about a week before i swapped intakes. when i pulled my plugs they were all white as snow and i was thinking that my plugs were fouling out lean. Could a bad CHTS cause a bad reading to my ECU causing a miss? all of my other sensors are fine and but i have not checked the CHTS. I also have ran several compression tests lately and i still check out at around 175psi. Before i fixed my vac leak my car would start missing really bad to the point where it would shut its self off. this would happen about 1 time a week and it has only happened 3 times. I changed out my cap and rotor also.

Thanks alot, im gonna search through that as best as possible.

so as i was driving last night i noticed that the blinking light isnt just blinking all the time, my observations concluded that (unlike in the 1st post) at a dead stop the light flickers sporadicly, in neutral when the car is moving the light turns off, in gear at steady rpm and on the throttle the light blinks consistantly, and if i barely have my foot on the gas the light will stay solid. i am still doing reaserch from other sites and i am gonna call the nissan dealership and ask some questions, i lost my owners repair manuel so i cant check and see if the answer is in there.

so all my sensors check out good, replaced my rotor and cap, plugs( plugs look great after about 1000 miles on them, There where black marks on the porclin of the plug by the electode( could not find out what that ment)) i dont have a fuel pressure guage and i am trying to get a air/ fuel guage but i dont know if one will work out unless i have a wide band 02 sensor. runs strong but at low rpms it sounds like it misses but i cant really feal it. one day i was on the way home and it started missing real bad and killed itself. hasnt happend since then. still a little confused. i will post more once i get 02/fuel guage and fp sensor.

purple coloring is caused by cleaning the windows with regular windex with amonia and a cheap film. windex with vinigar is the only product i will clean my tint with. Global Tint is one of the best companies for window films that will not fade and has a life time warrenty. DO NOT USE ANYTHING TO CLEAN WITH AMONIA!!! Soapy solution will not cause the tint to fade, when you apply the tint and squeegy it out all of the water and soap comes out ( the tint is non obsordive*),

im not woried about it any more cuz i eliminated all that stuff and cleaned up my intake manny to look good.

i swapped my intake, TB, and went with 300zx injectors and it also makes a loud ticking noise.

thats funny because about 1 month ago im driving down the road and i get up next to a caddy goin about 45mph, he looked over at me and then took off like nothing id ever seen before. I saw the model before he got too far and it was an STS. They are sleepers for sure.

Cylinder Head Tepmerature Sensor. i did my research.

well i changed the cap and rotor, it still runs rough at idle and misses during free rev up to about 2200 instead of 3k like it used to, and what is CHTS? i just changed the cap and rotor and its dark and rainy so i havnt test drove it yet. it deffinitly sounds alot better though.

ill take a pic of the lobes and post them up, its not lookin good.

well i ran into a little problem today that is gonna set back my cold start problem for a little bit. i was driving home and my car started missfire-ing real bad, i couldnt let the rpms under 3k without it running like hell. it had good power 4k and up but it would stall out at idle. it was dark when i got home so i couldnt check anything out. im gonna run some tests on it tomarrow and see if i find a prob. i dont know if its the fact that my cam shaft has chunks taken out of the sides of the lobes or the gouges in the contact points of my distrib. cap?

electrical connected.

thats what ive been doing for the past month. it just baffled me for a bit. i guess its not that big o deal.

as the title says, she won't run with the cold start injector plugged in. even when the car is warm and i plug it in the car shuts off. its an 83 zx and i just cant figure it out.

would anyone happen to know of a reason why my car will not run when my cold start injector is plugged in? even when my car is warmed up it will still shut off when i plug it in.

it is an 83

i appreciate all the information. i am getting a air/fuel ratio in a couple days to check if i am running rich. i am running 300zx injectors. they are just 20cc larger.

i just replaced my 02 sensor about a week back, so that would explain why i just notcied it.

what would be the price on the rear bumper?

so i was driving to columbia, SC from y house 2 hours away last knight and i noticed a blinking light down by my foot. i got out of my car at a weight station and checked it out. it was a green light that blinks constantly 2x a sec. when moving and it stays steady on when at idle. i have my cold start valve unplugged and i dont know if this is causing this light to blink. my car wont run with the cold start plugged in anyways. does anyone know what this light is?

the injectors are no longer stuck open. i fixed that problem. i thought it could have been a sticky valve b/c of the symptoms i have. my oil was as thin a gas because of washing out the cylinder walls w/ the injectors stcuk wide open, i figured this could have contaminated the oil somehow causing it to stick. i am going to run a compression test today and test the others as soon as possible.

touche, i like your train of thought, you are absolutely correct. my car running bad is still the train of thought in this thread, i apreiciate your knowledge and influence but lets stick to business. i have heard of a product used on marine outboard motors that can also free up sticky valves. i am going to try this out as soon as possible and will post the results and product name.

went back to the junkyard yesterday and all the zx's are gone but one. i was very disappointed in LKQ.

very true. maybe my bad english might somehow be linked to the poor idle that my car has, or maybe not.