BLKMGK

ah very nice, thank you!!!

My 2JZ had a 76mm turbo on it, stock longblock, and made a bit over 700WHP in my Supra. Off the line it lagged but I could tune some of that out now and I have a fully ported and setup head and HKS cam set that never made it onto the car. On E85 this thing would be nasty and probably pretty scary too heh. I'd step the turbo down for sure and get more area under the curve, I don't need 200HP in 500RPM coming on like a freight train! I have a weld-in engine mount that would allow me to move the motor around but had wanted to go with an Apex subframe that comes with mounts which would probably fix my position. Not gotten anywhere yet on the rear-end but it'll get there and then I'll be at the crossroads. Got to figure out a fuel cell to swap in place of the crap one I have now as well so this isn't happening fast regardless. Really appreciate the input!

Looks like it's been done at least once - ugh now a real dilemma lol! http://davidsclassiccars.com/datsun/117449-1972-datsun-240z-with-usa-supra-twin-turbo-and-v160-6-speed-465-hp-500hp.html If you skip through the pics you can find an interior shot and the shifter looks well placed but possibly a bit far back - I'll have to look closely at my car. Funny thing is he used the exact same rear-end setup I had been pondering with an Armada\ZX TT hybrid diff but that I'd given up on. The new 8.8 setups appeal to me MUCH more for gear selection and price but this is pretty interesting. Surprised he left the stock turbos on it ugh!

I'm surprised the R154 and V160 aren't closer but maybe that's just a shifter issue. The T56 I've experienced have always felt notchy, the V160 was smooth as butter and man the gearing is perfect for that motor! Trans mounts and whatnot have already been removed long ago, the trans tunnel is widened slightly for the previous T56 too. My car is a '72 so it's a pretty early example too. I have heard of modifying the V160 shifter to being it towards the motor but I'd sure hate to screw up the shift action. The LS would be an easier swap I think despite having the 2JZ drivetrain on hand. I know I can force induct an LS but I swear if I did that I'd be afraid of twisting it like a pretzel despite the cage in it lol. Perhaps a CTSV blower to really challenge it with torque! I appreciate the response, I guess I'm still unsure but I've got a little time. Sourcing a Super 8.8 mount and axles currently and I've got some time. Rear end gearing for the 2JZ\V160 would be quite different than an LS though so when it comes time to buy an IRS drop out I'll need to have decided. Looking hard at the Apex stuff up front and they offer both 2JZ and LS but it's welded mounts so not something I can just swap out. Ugh!Appreciate the food for thought and experience with the CD009! Hmm, what about the trans from the 350Z. I'm told that's cheaper and nearly as strong but I'm a little unsure on gearing. I know Sloppy used one in his LS\350Z swap and it seems to be holding, Taylor Ray used one in his Miata and was able to source a clutch with the right face and correct splines without fuss too. Perhaps that would solve the notchiness and cost of a T56? I know pretty much nothing about that transmission other than it's been used in place of T56 so it must roughly be close to the same length. Starting to lean LS <sigh>

Obviously the 2JZ fits but will the V160 fit? Shifter position? Mods required? Love that transmission! I've fit a T56 before so those mods have been done in the tunnel. Trying to decide between an LS motor and a 2JZ Love the 2JZ and would like to run a straight six but man the LS would be so easy Plus I really prefer forced induction lol

I've got an R200 bar in there now with a fancy billet piece and whatnot heh so I'm covered for that. I'll shoot you a PM and try to sort what I need, costing, etc. Nice to see this working with newer Mustang stuff for sure. A stronger diff, good brakes, and if the struts don't require tons of tweaking that rocks. I've already got parts on the car that if I needed to replace them I'd have to have it towed home and fab crap - that's not cool. the more parts store stock stuff the better. I don't care what manufacturer it comes from either as I'll drop a Toyota or GM engine in it anyway Getting this part sorted clears the way for the rest and get me excited. Nothing worse than building a car happy as can be and then breaking axles leaving you stranded a few times to kill enthusiasm! Once the rear is figured out I'll sort the front, Apex has a subframe that will allow for a JZ or I could have the JZ mount I have welded in - a fabricator I'm not sadly so a subframe swap is attractive. I've got a 911 I need to get running too so this project will be glacial overall 😔

My poor 240Z has been sitting on jackstands for YEARS! I snapped a pile of U-joints in the old original axles, swapped to the VLSD R200 and the gearing sucked plus I was worried about getting stranded again, and basically parked the car hoping for a solution to show up. Every so often I do a search and while I've seen some "solutions" over the years they often required giving up parking brake, or using brakes with no dust seals, crazy expensive custom coil-overs, cut down rotors, and on and on. I even purchased two different R230 pumpkins (truck and TT) to try and get a solution with the gearing I need but got screwed by the gear shop who "lost" my parts, I stopped following up when I began hearing about sheared shafts in the pumpkin. Sunk money into billet stubs too and then sold them off when I decided I wanted nothing to do with the old stock stuff. Pulled the motor and trans out of my car and then just lost interest knowing that no matter what I dropped in I'd be worried about snapping an axle or having awful gearing. Finally it looks like there might be a solution! I'll admit the newer "8.8" isn't something I knew anything about but it sounds like complete overkill - I like it! Being able to use 2015 OEM brakes, bearings, and wow a PARKING BRAKE is icing on the cake. Color me interested for sure! I'm still not 100% clear on install and exactly what's needed from me and what you provide, a break down would be helpful. Are you assembling axles? It looks like you've got custom shafts being made but that we can also use some form of stock shaft? OEM CVs from a far heavier cheap car sound good to me too. Do you have a set of install instructions you can share? I've seen the videos of David's car but it's tough to see exactly what is going on. I gather we need an R200 moustache bar? What exactly is being clearanced and what brackets must be in the car or removed? What are folks doing for parking cables? Rear coilovers are Neon, is that true? I have FOX "Cobra" wheels on my car, 5lug 17s, will these still fit? I think the lugs are spaced correctly. Brakes ought to fit I think. Is the track modified? My "plan" has been to take the 2JZ out of my wrecked Supra and drop it into the 240Z, hopefully with the 6spd. I have an old aluminum fuel cell in the car now so no spare tire hump. looks like David did too so I expect no clearance issues but I'd love to know which cell he's using. A 3.15 gear would work well for this swap if the 6spd fits. An LS is also attractive. Lots of options if the rear end holds together Are you doing anything for the front? I seem to recall you had mentioned somewhere fitting later model Mustang brakes up there too? Apex has a front-end setup that also can include mounts for a 2JZ but I'm curious. Rear must get fitted first.. I'll reach out Thanks for doing this man!

Finally starting to ponder getting the parts together to build my setup too. Bummer about the springs! Where are folks finding diffs? Going to hunt down the PDF of parts and start checking them off

One of the issues with the stock Datsun stuff is the friction weld IMO. They also neck down and have some other weaknesses, they always made me nervous which is why I bought better stuff when I thought I was going to use it. Gear selection is primarily what is driving me to look at the 8.8 more closely and thus sell my stub axles - I'd use them if I could though! Make me an offer Will, any luck with the caliper and rotor?

If it's stub axles anyone needs I have the 31spline cro-mo stuff for the R230 I'm selling. Brand new!

I'm willing to send caliper, rotor, and any mounting hardware I have. I will point out that since this caliper uses the main pads for it's parking function that this rotor need not be used and I'm more than willing to go with a Coleman or other rotor. One quirk with this setup - the calipers apparently have to be mounted on swapped sides to work properly with the parking brake cable - this puts the bleeder at the bottom. Not optimal but apparently this is how it's supposed to go. I'll shoot you a PM, hopefully I'm not the only one interested!

Psssst! Cobra brake mounts pretty please? Custom hats I can deal with and Coleman rotors etc. but really want the ability to mount a caliper with a parking brake

Any chance the Cobra rotor and caliper can be made to fit? Pretty please?

Watching this with interest!

A Mustang hub might allow for OEM Mustang brakes or perhaps allow you to skip the turning down of the rotor hat maybe? I would assume since Mustangs come with an 8.8 that a Mustang hub would handle a Mustang axle. Length might be an issue and maybe you would end up with a custom axle, and I understand your avoiding that, but at least it wouldn't be an oddball request for DSS or another shop to build a beefy "Mustang" axle at a custom length. Still trying some to piece this together in my head - appreciate you sharing details and explaining your decisions!

Well, my last post was my hope that some way could be found to use the Cobra brake kit I have since it has a parking brake. Calipers are flipped side to side so the bleed is upside down but otherwise it's all OEM stuff and apparently uses the Datsun cables. Wilwood is nice and all but parking brakes are important. Their spot calipers, the mechanical ones, aren't something I'd trust after having tried to use them. I can more easily accept not using my stub axles whgich are the 36spline cro-mo stuff. All of this is in a box and selling the stubs isn't that big a deal but the brakes... - I want a parking brake <shrug>

Okay, I did indeed find one but thank you to those who responded! $25 and a few bucks for shipping couldn't be beat (or passed up) for something I'm going to be cutting the motor mounts off of and coating.

I might have found one a bit cheaper but let me see if this falls through first since it's closer - fingers crossed! Otherwise I'll be calling, shaved mounts is a plus!

So long as it's not bent or rusted to death I'm interested. If you've cut the motor mounts off all the better, I won't care

Slow going, my diff is in Orlando being built right now though. Need to give Donnie a call and check on it actually! I still need the pieces to keep the axles from moving around as well as the axles. Know that the Armada diff just doesn't bolt up, a front mount for it has to be fabbed and some cutting done - not done this either on mine. Just do not have much time to work on it but I'm slowly moving and planning! If there was a shop around here I trusted I'd even consider having them do some of the work to speed it up <sigh>

Oh great, that's NOT good at all! I wondered if this would be an issue but since I saw posts from some folks that appeared to be using plastic as an end stop i figured it must not be a problem - whoops! 8K is not many miles, I wonder if a bearing of some sort could be put in there? Any other way to stop the axle movement? I'm still awaiting my diff to be completed before diving in, I'm now wondering if I shoudl go a different way for axles. <sigh> If i didn't already have brakes it would be easier...

Mustache bar from T3 is here, ZXT nuts showed up, R230 has been torn down and washed up. I need to find a better solution for the parts washer though, using Purple ZEP and do not like it. Brakes and inspections and renewals and a ton of other crap cleared including a danged license renewal. I should now be able to move along without having to worry about the other cars for awhile - whew! Hope to swap the new stubs and brakes into the car in the next few weeks while the diff is getting done. Then I will have to figure out a mount for the front - fun!

Thank you! that was exactly what I needed. I didn't want to be too rough on it without having a clue as to whether or not something else needed to be pushed or pulled - had a hard enough time finding this at a decent price! Can anyone confirm for that this is indeed a VLSD? finally got it torn apart and want to be 100% sure before I ship this and the other heavy beast out of state It had a 3.69 gear on it that was easy to remove. hopefully won't be wanting that anytime soon!

I too am looking for a source for these and axles as well! Here's what I've found so far -> http://www.fototime....reenheight=1200 and see attached..

I need to strip the LSD out of an R230 to ship along with an Armada diff for assembly. To save on shipping I want to only send the needed parts out rather than both full diffs. Currently I have the cover off of one diff and have removed the flange off the front and both stubs from the sides. I have also removed the caps to expose the bearing underneath. Now what? Does the pinion need to be pressed out somehow to remove the LSD and ring gear? I'll be needing to remove the ring as well which I don't think will be a big deal. I've witnessed plenty of 8.8 Ford diffs R&Rd but it's been years and I want to be gentle with this sucker so any help would be appreciated! Thanks!