BLKMGK

Sounds like an excellnt idea, any ideas as to where to find one that can handle gas fumes? How do the OEMs do it? I've been tempted to find the stock vapor tank and try to incorporate it but I know that there were always lots of complaints about fumes in the cabin which I'd like to avoid...

I used the same cell with ears welded to it and a cradle - foam filled. For the top I had a sheet of heavy duty sheet metal sealed with caulkRTV and pop riveted on top to cover it. Where the filler is I have a sort of square box that has a lid on it latched with a Dzuse (sp?) fastener. the biggest issue I have is with venting. If I simply run an open hose off the top to outside the car I can evap gallons of gas pretty danged quickly. If I seal the tank it will SWELL bigtime! I have also had some teeny pinhole leaks in the RCI cell so beware of this, I fixed mine with small amounts of gas tank epoxy. Solving the evap issue is one thing I REALLy wish I could figure out as cracking open the garage and being greeted with gas fumes is NOT cool!

A few things... first of all the Lightning did NOT use fluid from the radiator - never. It used a seperate cooling system and a seperate radiator, for racing folks also ran the coolant through an ice chest. Second, water cools far better than air. I water cool my computer for this very reason. It won't go below ambient but the swings are FAR less pronounced. Glycol based "coolant" will *not* cool as well as water with something like Redline Watter Wetter or Jet Dry in it I have done a great deal of data logging of intercoolers in the past, http://autospeed.drive.com.au/ has some good articles on intercooler cooling too. Think of an intercooler like a capacitor, large intercoolers can ABSORB lots of heat but after you let off the gas intake temps will go up as the absorbed heat is radiated into both the intake and the outside air. The trick is to have a big enough intercooler to absorb enough heat before it saturates. Using water you have a bigger capacitor but it weighs a bit and can be slow to cool. I helped tune a turbo Mustang, something like 347 cubes. Cheap MAC headers flipped from side to side, flowmaster Y, some junk pipe with U clamps, and something like a 72mm turbo or so. IC piping led into the interior through a water based aftercooler holding ice, then into a Hogan's sheet metal intake. Tubbed with a glide that we KNOW was eating at least 100RWHP. This car made 900+RWHP on moderate boost. When the BOV popped FOG came out of it! After each pull there were droplets of water on the intake's outer surface and it was cool to the touch - temps were dropping *below* ambient. Multiple pulls back to back to back before we managed to melt the sack of ice. There was no I/C radiator in this car so the only heat being absorbed was into the water only. On the track is was a beast and had to be detuned as they could not get it to go straight My point is that water works and works well when done right. On the street you will need a way to cool the water and you won't get to ambient easily but you seldom get that with an Air to Air either! On my car I'd see high IATs, then as the turbo spooled they would drop to NEAR ambient, and then slowly begin to come back up with a BIG Air to Air IC. When you let off temps go UP and then slowly come down. I measured this using an insulated lab grade sensor plugged into an aftermarket EMS with datalogging during tons of street and track (drag) driving. My next IC may very well be water based with a decent sized resevoir in the trunk and a radiator somewhere. Ice for track time for sure! Not sure what I'll use for coolant, several different ways to plumb this too. Anyway, don't dismiss them as they can solve packaging issues and may cool better than air to air if setup right. Downsides are complexity and weight but you should get more stable temps and the ability to drop below ambient when using ice on a Saturday night P.S. Some folks have mentioned pipe length as an advantage. On my Supra I was told that a big 4row intercooler on stock turbos would lag blah blah because it was "too big". I datalogged before and after, no measurable additional lag going from OEM small IC to the big honker, another myth busted. To pressurize an engine turbos nmove a TON of CFM, you have to get pretty nutz to have enough added volume to have measurable lag. Ponder that CFM requirement before getting too far down the road with an A/C intercooler - you will overwhelm it. the only successful A/C cooled IC I've seen was on a lightning show truck - it supercooled a resevoir which could be employed for SHORT bursts of power. Forget using Peltiers too, high amps and low effeciency - used those on my computer too and wow do they get HOT!

Whoa! Do not use the danged aftermarket fans, they generally suck! Look at the Ford Taurus 2pseed fan from a 6banger - like $90 on Ebay. 2speeds so when you need serious cooling you've got it. I have a Ford Cobra fan on my car that is also 2 speeds - whenturned on with the hood up I feel a BREEZE at the back of the car. Just make sure you use a GOOD Bosch relay, the Radio Shack stuff will burn up - ask me how I know

**bump** Any chance someone has made this a bolt-in setup? What ratios can be had for this diff other than the 3.6?

Honestly the curved bar with the two mounts welded to it and perhaps some pads or U shaped pieces to fit the frame would be all that's needed. The cutomer could perhaps give the frame with measurement prior to fabrication. If I were in Florida I'd have no issue with having it fabbed on site but umm, I'm a good ways away some pics showing how the factory mounts mount to the cradle might help too - I have a shop here that could perhaps build one for me but I'm still deciding if I want to do this. I'd told myself I wouldn't get involved back into a car until this was settled but as of Jult 12th it'll have been two years. They have tried ignoring me, I got a lawyer. they tried ignoring my lawyer - that not go so well. they are trying to drag their feet, that not working. They tried to claim the car wasn't worth anything, a Barret Jackson appraiser told them otherwise - I contend his estimate was low too. they would like to sidestep my having been taken out of work for a week and my sprained back - not going to happen. they have evenwhined that I didn't "mitigate" the 4months of storage fees that had accrued, we pointed out that they took that long to make me a written offer. They are running out of ways to stall and I want to build something! I have a fully ported brand new head and cams just sitting that would have put me over the 800RWHP mark and it's killing me. I have some spare turbos too It's also cool that folks have stepped up and built parts to further replace the Datsun weak links like stub shafts and rear brakes with E-brake etc. so I'm starting to get the bug. *If* I can do it with a 6 speed and not go broke I might try - we'll see. I still think an SC300 would be a blast too and they have been selling, already swapped, at reasonable prices... Anyway, congrats on your success! I've not been able to access your member's page so pointers to pictures anywhere would be appreciated. I'm not 100% set on doing the Datsun but it would at least allow me to sidestep all the emissions crap and tell the cops to goto hell when they bitch about "non-stock" exhaust

Well, still fighting with the insurance company on my car - Sears is dragging their feet as hard as they can. Something about 60K worth of parts and their 16K "bluebook" figure not jiving is tough for them to understand Lawyer slowly beating them down I think. Scottie has sent me pics and vids of Zgads car flying - I *so* want to wrench on another 2JZ! Cyrus, I'd appreciate pics of the shifter on your car inside, where did it come out? I have a JDM importer right around the corner and while I'm currently poor fighting for my Supra I might be tempted to plan something if I can get the 6spd in there. Zgad, any chance of getting a mount like your's duped?

I'd suggest mentioning this on Supraforums - in particular the MKIII forums. A bunch of guys have swapped in 1JZ and 2JZ motors into those and even MKII Supra clublexus would be another good one I think...

Wow! Going to use the Supora cluster too?? FWIW - Defi (pretty sure it was them) made a pretty nice tach that is a near drop-in for the Supra tach. I actually swapped it into mine and wrote it up on Supra forums - you could then dump the Autometer tach and have something pretty much stock looking. The tach I'm talking about laso has a digital display for displaying up to two other sensors and can do peak hold etc etc. - quite nice IMO!

Still going through hell with my car - trying to get a pretty reputable appraiser to look at it but between Barret Jackson and other things he's pretty busy. Still working it though, car sits in my garage making me sick every time I see it NOT giving up and not letting them rip me off! I have pretty much kissed off participating in most car forums though, too damned depressing at the moment

Lol, of course I've not forgotten! I've got two L28s on my back porch I'm trying to get rid of cheap cheap - I cannot help but think of you guys when I trip over them Seriously though, I always point people this way who are working on weird swaps or 240Zs!

The drivetrain doesn't appear to have been damaged although the intercooler is wadded. I am fighting for a pretty HUGE settlement and will try to get the car back as sourcing all of those parts is a PITA. The car ran high 10.8s on pump with good tires and a smaller turbo, I figure with the ported head and race gas the motor will do great in an SC300. Once the SC300 is setup I'll turn my attention to the Z so this won't be overnight. I may even get it running again with the SBC before Winter truly hits. How's the RX7 doing? Holler sometime and update me on things!

Lol, I'm not totally gone. Just been concentrating on the other car and depressed at it's demise. The V8 just didn't quite suit me I think, I dunno'. I really like forced induction. I have a miniram for the V8 so who knows. After all I've learned about the 2JZ it's REALLY a motor I admire.

Have you put an OBD scanner on it? Why do you think you have detonation? when you run race gas at the track is the MPH going up? Honestly - I'd snag an EBAY header, a small(ish) single, and put down some serious numbers. The stock twins are well good and fine to a point but are heavy (VERY!) and run out of breath early. A 61mm or better a 67mm turbo would allow you to make an easy 500RWHP - a T78 on my car running pure 93 pump made 550RWHP at just 1.2BAR of boost I end up at 720RWHP on my car on good gas with stock cams running a 71GTQ, 34PSI, a full 4inch exhaust, and an AEM EMS that I tuned. I have a ported head and cams which would've bumped HP by at least 100 however the car was totalled by a dumbass and I'm fighting with his insurance company. An SC300 and my chassis will yield one FAST SC300 and a GE drivetrain for the 240Z The GE motor with a GTE head will be wonderful and 600+RWHP is available with pump gas and meth injection. Are you finding the shifter position a problem? Any pics of the console? How did the dash turn out?

Here was the deal with mine... They sent them to me with pipes welded to the head flange and to the collector but the collector was left long and nothing welded on it. I had had torubel with the driver's side on another header and so had everyone else so I test fit this sucker on that side and it fit well. I made some marks where I wanted it cut and it looked good. Sent it back to them, they coated it, and then I took it to a shop to have them fit and the exhaust welded up. Stupidly I had not marked the orientation of the flange so my pipe flange needed rotating So then I get a call from the shop - driver's side was PERFECT - W00T! However the PASSENGER side didn't fit - crap! They swapped the old ones back on so I never saw how bad it was and I've not had time to test fit myself. I still have the headers on the shelf and a mini-ram I've not had time for either. Pete you're mostly local to me right? If you wanted to give these a shot I'd be happy to help ya' out. I have Edelbrock aluminum heads on my car at the moment - these were shorties BTW. FWIW - I was paying all of my attention to my Supra of late. Was up to 720RWHP on race gas and about to do a ported head and cams which would put me over 800RWHP. At about 620RWHP the car was into the 10s with my crappy driving and I was hoping to REALLY fly next time out. On the way to work about one month ago some jackass in a Sears repair van pulled out in front of me and I had about 2 car lengths to stop from 45+MPH. No way, antilock hit for a split second and then I T-boned him. Glass and airbags everywhere and a sprained back for me. From the firewall forward the sheetmetal is toast. They will be slicing me a HUGE check and I will attempt to retain the chassis with a slightly reduced check. The drivetrain will likely end up in an SC300 with the ported head and likely a smaller turbo for street driving. The SC300 drivetrain is an N/A 2JZ motor like the Supra with a 5spd. IF this all works out that drivetrain will go into the 240Z with a decent sized turbo It will be awhile but I may yet rekindle my interest in the 240Z and get it moving to it's potential - fingers crossed! Sorry for the hijack but things here have been a bit hectic with all of this I can only imagine the 240Z with this kind of power and powerband.

Chated a bit with the guys I know running NA-T cars. The compression on the GTE is 8.5:1, that head on a NA block makes for a 9:1 ratio. Some of this is eyebrow cutouts in the piston. Easy way to get it back is two headgaskets stacked (the guy I spoke to ran this for 7 years) and you get 8.5:1 but lose a little squish. The GE motor doesn't have a crank trigger as that signal comes from the distributor - funny enough it has the same trigger pattern as the GTE and can be interchanged with say an AEM EMS (what I run). "NA pistons only account for about 4cc of the total combustion chamber volume mainly due to the valve cutouts. TT pistons account for 13cc - most of which is designed dish." DaveH on Supraforums runs this combo on a stock shortblock to some pretty sick times - single digits I think - but is building his motor. He has a glide in it and 3.77 gears. He says it's pretty bad on the highway but around town it's not bad with the high stall overcoming the tall 1st gear. I've driven a 2JZ with a TH400 full manual trans and high stall, it's pretty weird but wen you stomp it the thing is SCARY fast. Anyway, the GE motor is probably a pretty good choice but I'd couple it with a GTE head to make turbo manifolds easier to get although DaveH might disagree. Flow of the head is apparently not too bad in either case. Hope that helps some

Ya, although I'm honestly not sure how much sense this makes unless you have a 1JZ that's gone bad. Finding turbo manifolds for the 1JZ head is likely to be harder than for the 2JZ series motors. If you stick with the twin parallel OEM turbos you have a set of turbos that cannot boost too high (ceramic) and that need some work to even flow to their best potential (Y pipe). It would probably be cheaper to turbo a 2JZGT motor which are generally cheap(er) to find. You get a distributor but even that can be worked around if you really wanted to dump it.

Just had this thread sent to me. Haven't been on the board awhile as my SBC 240Z has been sort of slumbering while I've played with a MKIV Supra. Some of the info here about Supras is umm a bit "off". Anyway, the gearing may be why this car is coming up so slow in the 1/4. Supras have fairly tall gearing stock - all years had the same gearing BTW. The difference is auto vs 6spd. Anyway, ever since I got my Supra I've been thinking that this would be one damned nice swap! My car makes over 620RWHP on pump gas spooling at 4200RPMs. I could go to a smaller turbo (and may) to get even faster spool and likely make the same power. Honestly, if I were going to all the trouble to swap a 2JZGTE into a Supra I'd absolutely go single. Kits to do this can be had somewhat cheap now and there are even some somewhat decent cast manifolds that work well (including a conversion of the stock twin manifold). Stock twins just run out of air too quickly - some tuning will fix that humped dyno curve BTW. All in all a very cool project - I'd love to duplicate it! If I could get enough money for my SBC I'd do it Oh, putting down 600RWHP on the street with DRs is no problem. RLTC takes care of business and if I wanted I could also use the trac control built into my EMS. P.S. 2JZGTE and GT shortblocks are the SAME. If you can get a GT motor you can make just as much power but the manifolds are a little scarce for the turbo side. Lookup DaveH on Supraforums for an example of a fast GT motored Supra

Having an officer outright lie in court when I was 16 is what did it for me. Long story short "the tires were spinning so wildly that the back of the car was fishtailing side to side endangering pedestrians in the parking lot". The car in question was a FRONT WHEEL DRIVE Chevy Citation. The tires chirped when I shifted from reverse to 1st while still rolling backwards slightly - the front wheels had also been sitting in a puddle of greasy water. Because I admitted that the tires had chirped (true) prior to the officers big whopping LIE the judge simply reduced the charges. The cop had been looking to nail me and thought he had his chance, he was almost right and I learned alot about the police that day. I had another officer not too long ago attempt much the same thing - I brought witnesses and made it quite clear to him and the prosecutor (who offered to reduce!) that I was going to fight. Gee, before I could make an ass out of him in front of the judge they dropped the charges, he apologized, and he admitted he was in the wrong. I lost two days of leave as did my witnesses since he didn't show up for the first case and the judge postponed it (rather than toss it). I should have made them try the case. Sorry for those of you in law enforcement but it really does only take one bad apple to spoil the barrel. I could go on, to include having to show one officer how to fingerprint my car after a theft, but it would be pointless. 5 B&E thefts on various cars I've owned and NONE of them ever resulted in anything being done. Around here an officer's primary job appears to be revenue collection via traffic trolling and in some cases driving unmarked sports cars attempting to get people to race from lights. Yes, I'm serious they have done that here.

Blow over the top of a straw that's inserted into a glass of water - the water will begin to rise up the straw if you do it right - that's how the suction is created. The engine picks up power because there's less pressure in the crankcase to fight when the pistons are coming down the bores etc.. I think if you peruse th eJegs catalog you'll even find a kit to do this - I've mostly seen it on circle track racers and whatnot, less so on drag cars <shrug>

Just came over here to make sure it was posted - 130+ pages - holy crap! Not surprised it was already posted - what a LONG read though. Glad to hear that with all of the publicity he got his car. Scummy dealers like that really tick me off

Have you considered purchasing a W/B? You're tuning blind without one and since prices have come down it's crazy to try and tune, risking an expensive motor, without one....

I bought a gravity fed unit from Sears - worked great. Plastic and sort of a roll around cart. I've used play sand and sand used for mortor - screen it! I did use a good mask that covered nose and mouth as well as a face shield.