BLKMGK

What did he say about the GS300? I missed that one. So far as I know though only the SC and IS300 work well for a Supra swap. The GS has some other engine in it and I don't know how well it owuld work out. I too freaked when I saw the GN comment. Do these guys not have a clue about say searching the WEB for information before answering a question like that?!

I've pulled my T56 twice with the motor in. You just have to tilt the engine back with a crane or jack with the car up as high as possible. You might have to tilt it forward a touch to get to some bolts but you won't have too much room to do this. Pulling the distributor cap etc. may help with the room to tilt...

Often this seems to be because someone has posted an image in the thread that's wide - stretches all of the posts in the thread it seems...

Heh, watched a Prelude with a turbo on it make nearly 300WHP with more tuning still needed the other day. Loud as HELL but quite sweet. Not sure what all he had done but an AEM computer was controlling it all. A shame the darned things are all front wheel drive

I tried a short pump too - ran into the same issues and purchased a long one

That pump will handle it - more than one Supra runs that pump under some serious boost. However it's loud as hell and probably not something I'd want on such a nice car - on my Mustang a similiar pump is LOUDER inside than the blower AND the exhaust They sound like a coffee grinder You may want to use one of those boxes that varies the voltage on it as well since you won't need full volume all the time. Dual Walbros or if you've got a good alternator dual Supra pumps will flow a TON although some Supra guys are actually now talking about going with THREE Walbros - wow! Walbros heat up some and drop a little pressure but mine seem rock solid and are QUIET. I hear a hum from outside the car, nothing more. You'll see what I mean when you fire that sucker up the first time but flow wise you ought to be fine IMO...

Eh, I know some guys with wicked fast cars who NEVER talk about what's been done. They do sneaky suff to keep them looking stock even when they're heavily modified. Yup, they street race bigtime! I get asked all the time about my Supra at cruises. I often don't give specifics about HP or times as I really don't want that information floating too freely around. While I don't street race I used to and it's possible I might make some side cash one evening if someone irritates me enough. No sense tipping my hand too much 8) I DO pop the hood and I will answer most questions but I don't get too specific <shrug>

Pete are you using the Wilwood E-brake calipers with Mike's mounts? If not can you point out a pic of the setup to me? Mine makes what sounds like a grinding nopise when I stop and I can feel a DRAG on the rear that will sort of POP and let go right at the end. I sure as heck HOPE it's just the Wilwood E-brake! Cannot think of anything else it could be unless it's the new CVs and I highly doubt that. If these CVs don't fix everything I've had torubles with in the rear then some sort of 'Vette rear is going in or a solid axle! Hadn't thought about the diff cover taking loads - duh! That makes perfect sense! Since I tightened it all up not a drop has come out 8) What are you using for alignment specs? The car just feels a little strange is all and after having broken so many U-joints out back I'm a little afraid to get down on it just yet but it used to float a bit before. I want to recheck all of the bolts back there at least and get comfortable with the car some. If you're ever out this way do PLEASE give me a holler, a second set of eyeballs on this might be nice. Need to replace one of the rubber doughnut looking things on top of one of the rear struts too - darned studs strip too easily. May just replace both to be safe, PITA! Thanks!

Calibrated? If they have a vac port there's no calibration to speak of - they're 1:1 which is what you want. I've used generic "N/A" regulators on forced induction cars plenty of times - they work fine. The only time I've ever seen one specifically for forced induction is when it's being used as a "crutch" ala FMU and has a greater than 1:1 rise in fuel pressure. It works like this - 1psi (for lack of a better term) of vac lowers fuel pressure by the same amount. 1psi of pressure raises it by the same amount. However the fueling to the injector remains the SAME. Why? Well, in vac the engine is attempting to draw fuel through the injector like soda through a straw - the fuel pressure is reduced as a result of not needing the additional pressure to inject the fuel. Under boost the opposite occurs and must be counteracted - boost is attempting to push the fuel back up the injector and into the fuel tank. Make sense? You could certainly use an FPR with NO vac connection but this would make tuning the fuel a nightmare and under boost might push back enough that the injector wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel or distribute it correctly. This is one of the reasons I HATE FMUs - they make tuning a nightmare since you no longer know how much fuel the injector is oging to actually be spraying at any given time - even assuming the silly thing raises pressure correctly (not often).

Not sure I'd try to build one - that puppy isn't run of the mill steel. If you've ever tried drilling on one you'll know what I mean

Okay, she's driveable again! Took it out after replacing my ignition box (grr!) and it felt pretty good. I drove the car up to a friend's shop and back - I am NOT liking the Wilwood E-Brake calipers, they suck. They seem to be dragging when I stop so I'll be removing them and driving again to see if that's what was causing the horrible grinding sound Need to lower the rear about another inch too, it's too tall and the axles aren't straight however it squats a bit on accelleration so I'm not sure what to do. At least they didn't explode! I need to put some more gear oil in the rear before going too far but overall it wasn't too bad. Oh, need the submarine belt installed too - darned harness kept coming up over my belly All that said - car still feels a little scary. I think I need to have the engine looked over to make sure everything is a-okay or do it myself. The valvetrain may have a little noise in it or I'm just REAL paranoid. The car also seems to ride a touch rough, hard to explain. It CERTAINLY needs an alignment but to what specs? It used to feel like it was on rails before I did the swap and redid the ENTIRE suspension. I'm not sure what's bugging me other than worrying the rear suspension will die on me again but something just doesn't feel right. After I get an alignment I'll reevaluate I guess. Maybe have someone with a Z locally drive it back to back with theirs to compare maybe. <sigh> At least the steering is tight and the brakes pretty good!

It was a simple decision for me - full cage fuly padded. I came to this decision after parting out another 240Z. You see I gutted the doors comepletely and upon looking inside was SHOCKED to see how little they had for support. IF I were ever T-boned in the door I would expect the cage to have ZERO resistance - there's simply nothing in there. The rocker might help but it's awful low to the ground and most of today's cars would ride over it. So, a cage was installed to protect me as best it can. I can certainly try to watch my actions and be safe but I cannot say the same for others. Hell right now every single car I own has a rollbar of some sort in it - even my daily driver Supra. Done right it's not too intrusive, my Z's cage is a bit of a PITA though and I took those lessons learned and applied them to the Supra 8)

Nope - NOT a blown fuse Seems my Accel 300+ ignition box is TOAST! As luck would have it I had a Mustang 300+ sitting in the back seat of my Mustang gathering dust, same connectors on it but a different harness. After I'd blown my second fuse and noticed that the 300+ was pretty warm I swapped it over and it fired up INSTANTLY. Drat!

Looks like it was a blown fuse! However I left the damned ignition turned on for like two days so I'm now recharging the silly battery to find out I determined no spark by pulling a plug wire, grounding it, and jumping the solenoid. Rotor etc. is all fine but when I started checking things I found no power - hence the fuse. Hopefully that's all it was - Ill check in an hour or two and see..

Still have those pics somewhere too but I also don't recall what trans it was running

Great, car has been sitting awhile and fired up just fine previously. Put the rear back together, charged the battery, gassed it up, and it cranks with NO spark - ARGH! Not sure what's up yet. Accel distributor, Accel 300+ ignition, Accel coil. I've got an oil pressure switch in the mix too but I'm pretty sure that's just wired to the fuel pump. Distributor has nothing but the mag trigger in it. VERY frustrating, I'll be checking connections and chasing power leads tomorrow afternoon it looks like. Bleah! I hope it's something simple and not something toasted!

Kewl! Please take many pics of th einstall on that car - the turbo and engine bay especially please I've got scanned copies of the Zoom mag up on my site if anyone wants to read the article - very nice stuff. My 2JZ recentyl dynoed 580RWHP on pump gas (some knock - I pushed it) so the 2JZ is certainly a good candidate too - especially in the states. The 1JZ is harder to get turbos for but it's supposed to also be good for well over 500RWHP if you can move enough air through it. Sick I tell y'a! Congrats on the purchase! P.S. I too envy the rollbar on the otherpage. Had I seen that before the bar went in my Z I'd have one just like it - crawling over the side bar is a PITA! My Supra has swingouts and a bar above the rocker becasue of what I learned with the Z!

Yes, the Explorer had a 5.0 in it for a few years but as I said above I cannot detail the years without digging through a pile of Mustang mags - you've been reading up on those right? Roller cams have less friction and faster opening ramps - ie it's a desirable thing. Flat Tappet late model blocks accept the OEM roller stuff no problems. Oh, you don't need aluminum heads to hit 300RWHP with an Explorer motor, just a good cam and exhaust. 8)

Okay - a tip from some friends who run a Mustang hop up shop... Buy an Explorer motor, get one with the GT-40P heads. Note that these require goofy headers on the Mustang so you'll need to make sure that street rod headers will work. Okay, you've got the engine, it was CHEAP huh? Now, replace the cam with a performance cam, use the Explorer "Cobra Style" intake, it will run great. A guy locally did this and with his Mustang ECU, MAF, etc. it made 300RWHP. Best of all it cost him MUCH less than a Mustang "HO" motor since the wrecking yards don't realize it's potential. It will also likely be newer, I think it will already have the rollers, spider, and other goods for a roller setup but a CRAPPY low lift cam - don't go nuts on the cam. The GT-40P heads are supposed to be as good or better than the SVO GT-40 heads They will be iron though but if you're on a budget they're decent. P.S. Someone double check me on the intake. I'm 99.9% sure on it but I've not been keeping up as much as I used to. Would be helpful to know the years for the Explorer 5.0 motors too.

87 was MAP everywhere, 88 was MAF in Cali only with 89 being MAF everywhere

Head gaskets are an issue on the Ford SC engines - be careful. A friends shop has had a few come in and th egaskets were blown so badly they ended up replacing the entire engine in at least one case. I'm not sure that's a motor I'd jump on unloess it were pretty cheap. There's at least one company out there rebuildingupgrading blowers for that motor and I think March makes higher boost pulley's for it too.

If you mean the Z that the Options mag swapped a 1JZ into I think that was the N/A 5speed...

Do a search - 5lug conversions have been covered quite a few times.

I wouldn't try to use any sort of sealant. I've used this in the past on other cars - when the engine was torn down for a rebuild they commented on all of the CLOGGED coolant passages Could you unbolt the motor mounts and lean the engine some way to get to the plugs? Did you not use sealant on them when they were driven in?

They make less power due to the turbos being smaller, the cams may also be slightly different. Their engine management was MAP based instead of MAF. This was all likely done to honor the "Gentleman's Agreement" on HP in the JDM market. Not sure what the Euro Supras had but it was either the JDM spec or the US spec stuff - lots of JDM Supras in OZ and Europe so who knows. The 6spd is a Getrag, it's also about $2K if you can find one in decent shape. Not sure why the 5spd would be shorter since it and the 6spd both fit into the same chassis just fine - maybe there's a bellhousing difference? Given a choice I'd want the 6spd but only if I was sure it would fit. The 1JZ would also be an interesting swap but the turbo setup is a PITA on that car compared to the 2JZ if it would even fit. Don't know if an off the shelf turbo kit would work in the Z chassis - I'd hope so. Not ever measured mine but it's further forward and further out to the side than the OEM turbos I think... I wouldn't do piggyback electronics. I'd wire up the AEM with the Toyota harness if I could get one cheaply. Since it's a swap anyway I'd use the cheaper Honda AEM with the Honda connector swapped onto the OEM harness since it'll likely need to be hacked up anyway. If I couldn't get a harness I'd be stuck making one but really that's not too bad I think since there are only a few connectors and Toyota probably sells them all.