BLKMGK

To be clear - there's no difference in the blocks between the stick and automatic equipped cars. As for the TH400 - talk to Scotty about the adapter he had done. I'm pretty sure he didn't buy it from a specialty shop and that it cost a good bit less than what they charge. Supra guys CLAIM that the RPMs a 2JZ turns and the torque produced beat up TH400 pretty good and that you need all sorts of special parts to make it live. I'm skeptical to say the least but there's all sorts of claims. I've driven a TH400 equipped Supra - it was an exciting ride to say the least but fun to tune on

Gosh, where to start.... 16 years old, took apart the carb on my parent's car - one that I drove all the time. Put it back together but couldn't get it to start, was up till like 1am twiddling before I found the part I'd put in backwards. Why stupid? My parents had taken THEIR car in for service and we had only just the one car and they sort of needed it to goto work and I only took the carb apart because I was curious Few years later, out tuning the timing on my 84 Mustang GT, doing it by ear like I'd read about.... Drive it, listen for knock under WOT, stop to advance distributor... Long about the 5th stop I dropped the hood thinking it was on the first latch. Hit the gas and as soon as I went WOT the hood flipped back Worse? A handful of years later I'm out in a different Mustang with a pair of turbos under the hood. I'd raced and had the car cooling in a parking lot sitting on TOP of the first latch in order to hold the hood open further but not show off the goodies. Things begin to get a little out of hand and I decide to leave following a friend. I decide to take it easy so I don't stomp on the gas or anything. I think I got up to at least 25+mph before I sort of "remembered" the hood as it flipped straight back - argh! Best of all... Build a nice 351W for said Mustang, blower this time. Get it all together but I want a friend of mine to run the valves for me - expensive set of pro ported heads... He does one valve, does another, and then spins it over a little more only it comes to a hard stop and won't turn further.... Stumped he finally gives up and tells me "sumthin's hosed". I come home, look it over and pull a plug on a cylinder to see something odd.... Seems a pair of Fruit of the Looms has been left in a cylinder by your's truly - doh! Not wanting to pull it all apart again I get out a pair of forceps, slide them into the spark plug hole, grab hold, and pull - I get a tiny sliver of cotton. About 45mins later I have a pile of clippings and the motor turns freely. I damn near never heard the end of that one! At least I didn't have to pull it apart to get them out! Oh I've made some tuning errors too... nothing like setting the boost cut below ambient or forgetting a zero when you set the rev limiter I could probably write a book on stupid tuning errors!

I'd agree that making power is easy and that keeping the powerband reasonable is the trick. I made good power but it was a huge jump as boost rolled on at 4K RPMs. It jumped well over 100RWHP in a split second! I ran a 71GTQ, I had intended to move to a 61mm turbo for street use to prove that I could make as much pump HP with that as I did the 71 and 67 before it. This engine is octane limited on the street to around 620RWHP with alcohol IMO, alcohol injection is real nice! If you can do a twin setup for $500 go for it! Plumbing is more complicated but the headers aren't too bad - I've seen the HKS units. Little stubby suckers! Don't forget you double up on the wastegates, use good ones. One last thing to consider, this is actually something that could be used on Zs too with some work... Racelogic Traction Control. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/ I had this on my car and it literally saved my life a few times. It's F1 technology and senses from all 4 wheels (ABS type sensors), it will even cut power if in a turn and slip is sensed - I sort of tested that. Does good data logging of wheelslip at the track too. If you can swing it do so, you will not regret it! Makes the car actually safe to drive in the rain too.

Argh, not seeing it on my schedule here I generally hate these kinds of shows but will watch for this one! Hopefully it'll be a Torrent somewhere

If the BOV is open under vac is it sucking unfiltered air?

Wow, that car looks quite a bit like my 240Z, VERY nicely done! What spring rates are you running front and rear - coil overs? I'd love to get my suspension sorted out and you seem to have your's working quite well!

FWIW, Jegs and Summit sell radiator overflow tanks that can be used for this. I have an aluminum one on my car that might even hold more than a dryer. Wasn't super expensive - here's one http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_225620_-1 That kind of thing might be even easier to adapt. Just be careful as neither of these solutions have anything to prevent aeration. Most of the stuff I've seen purpose built for this has had something to help separate air. I too have wondered how best to get EFI going on my car and a surge tank type deal seems like the way to go with my fuel cell...

I tuned on a 347inch Ford 302 based motor awhile ago. Eagle rods, Eagle crank, Ford race block, Hogans sheet metal intake, dunno what pistons or injectors. Through a Powerglide that we KNOW cost 100RWHP on a previous build (they had beforeafter dynos showing the loss) this thing made OVER 900RWHP. We did NOT push the envelope on boost. The chassis for this car was a fully built deal on a 95ish Mustang chassis - fully tubbed blah blah. Water/ice intercooler - blew water vapor out of the BOV and beaded water on the intake after every pull. On the street on slicks it would blow the tires off as soon as boost hit and traction couldn't be regained pedalling it. At the track the new power, having moved from a belt driven blower, was so great that it overpowered the chassis dangerously. They had to lower the boost a good bit and it proceeded to run single digit 1/4s last I heard, dunno' what the traps were. Setup on that car was a couple of cheap MAC headers flipped side to side, some crush bent tubing, some U muffler clamps, a FlowMaster Y, and a turbo flange to mount it. I do not recall turbo sizing but not super huge - hell I made over 700RWHP on a 71mm turbo flow restricted by the cam. Others did 800RWHP with just swapped so you certainly do *not* need anything bigger than that. My point is - do not go BIG! The Z is a shorter wheelbase and nowhere near as stiff, be careful as the torque will be stump pulling! You will make HUGE power pretty easily, the setup I saw did it on a dirt simple combo without buttloads of boost. When the power comes on it's going to be a rush so make sure it's pointed straight The guy who drove the Mustang had a hell of a time controlling it when boost rolled up, glad it wasn't me behind the wheel!

Heh, you could probably stop the breakage there - and move it someplace else

Heh, 500HP and power to 8500RPM should be no issue with a 1JZ The 2JZ could spin that high bone stock and at larger displacement so the 1JZ ought to have zero issues doing it. 500HP is also pretty easily attained with the 2JZ and while it will be a little harder with the lower displacement 1JZ I doubt you'll have issues getting there. One thing I'd urge though is the use of a single turbo. The 1JZ wasn't sequential and there's zero benefit to using a pair of turbos over a single reasonably sized turbo. It'll be less plumbing and less cost. From some of the posts on that board it sounded like you were doing a set of modded twins, I hope the Holset comments means you've decided on a single. It's a bummer you had to push the firewall back, was that the only possible way to get it in? From the outside the nose on those cars look long enough but I've never put a tape to one. Looks plenty wide thoguh which is nice! How much power will the rear-end take before it self destructs? Looks like a fun project man,good luck with it!

Picture helps a great deal, thanks! I asked about the nitrous because of the extreme torque rush that occurs when activated. That on top of everything else (been running them for years??) just added up. I'd also agree that an inspection would probably have caught this but yeah that is a PITA and I'd probably not have done it either Glad to see Ross is on this and that he has plans for something even stronger in the works as it seems some of us are certainly going to need it. The failure analysis, which I hope he shares, could prove enlightening. Looking at it and "guessing" that's pretty much where I think most would think it would break so not a big shocker that it did. A straight axle could certainly fix this once and for all but man that's a pile of work! I'm still waiting for a bolt-in R30 mount (lol). Hopefully other folks who have been abusing these axles hard will inspect them and this will turn out to be a fluke...

I'd be REAL interested in pics of the Starion JZ swap. I think I'd want the 2JZ but the two are not much diff in dimension Oh and I have owned a nasty 2JZGTE lol Always liked the Starion's looks but the motor not so much. A 2JZ in a Starion would be the best of both worlds! I'd agree the V160 is the better trans, I hate the T56 I've got whereas the V160 was a complete dream. The double OD in the T56 blows and is a waste. 5th is actually usable in the V160...

Considering ths speeds that some guys are running on these axles I'd say ANY failure ought to be brought to light. No one is bashing Ross but if I was running a set of these at speed and wasn't made aware of a failure upset wouldn't even begin to express how I'd feel! It looks like it might have failed out nead an end, hard to put the pics together in my mind, but if that's so is it possible there wasn't deep enough spline engagement? Or did it fail back at the root? Would be helpful to see the parts laid out - been awhile since I've ripped the rear out of my car heh. Hopefully there's some measure that can be done to help prevent this in the future, this was certainly a pretty extreme example of stress! Any nitrous used while running these?

Sounds like they have taken some pretty good stress in the past - 1.47 60s is pretty good to say the least! I'd bet that the axle was damaged and a time bomb waiting to go off It might be a good idea to pull both of them and see what condition the other is in, if they have an index stripe on them you can see if they have twisted at all. I'd bet that OEM axle stubs wouldn't have lasted so well! There's an 8second 2JZ powered 240Z using these stubs I think who should probably be pretty worried! I cannot imagine having one of these fail at speed, particularly under really hard accel at the track Yeah Mike I'm around a bit. I may yet wake my car up to have something to work on until the Supra is finally settled and I may yet drop a 2JZ into the 240 I think the 2JZ would be much more fun than the 383 Meanwhile I'm reading up on developments since I was last around. These axles sound like a pretty good replacement and hopefully a failure analysis will be done and improvements made....

A burnout can be quite rough on an axle if the wheel hops or it goes from spinning to hooking up quickly. Cornering puts side loads on the axle and not torsional loads. Need to see pics of how it failed and where, hopefully the wheel remained captured!

Just make sure it's the EZ. The EVC IV (is there a V?) has a boost limit due to the internal sensor it uses. I think it's a 2 or 2.5BAR sensor and while "smart" it's not good for high boost. Yeah, the Supra guys were the ons bitching about this

Ditto on the GM solenoid. You're looking for one from a Buick GN, Turbo TA, or Syclone - they aren't real expensive. They operate using a pulsed signal. If you want an even better solenoid AEM sells some for use with their EMS but I used the GM unit to 34PSI with no issues. Honestly I think the EMS controlling the boost is best - no temptation to get stupid and push the edge on low octane gas etc. The AEM allowed multiple levels of boost and a switched input could be used too. I hooked that to a pressure solenoid on the meth injection, when meth flowed and pressurized the line I got higher boost - an empty tank left me at low boost.

Retarded timing starts the ignition process later in the cycle - the fuel is still burning when it exits the port. Anti-lag systems retard timing and bump fueling in order to GREATLY speed up the spool at the expense of power. I tried an ignition map from a guy's car who swore it spooled MUCH faster blah blah. Sure enough it spooled several hundred RPMs faster than my optimized ignition mapping - and lost a pile of HP too. Doh! Felt like crap on the road. I setup anti-lag on my car for the track to launch - WOT, against the RPM limiter 2stepping, it would make so much boost the W/G would open at the line and scare the crap out of the poor starting line guy Setting up anti-lag for the street to trigger at low RPMs (just retard and extra fuel) made the car weird to drive too and wasn't on for long. Videos of my car before I did the anti-lag had it blowing fireballs out the back just on the two step, damaged a muffler doing that too. Loud as hell, tried it just once in the driveway trying to tune the cannon shots out of it but it scared my dog so bad I had to restrict the tuning to the track! In general if you're blowing fireballs on deccell etc. the car is NOT tuned right, the injectors should be off during deccell. High EGTs and all sorts of things can result on anti-lag etc. too so don't use it for long periods of time. WRC cars do some crazy things for anti-lag far different than what I did, beats the snot out of the turbos too.

How far back is your motor? You ought to have plenty of room for a decent OEM puller from say a Taurus or Cobra in there.

Now THAT is the right way to do it! ^^^^ Unfortuneatly I'll bet it cost quite a bit too I almost wish I'd stuck with a stock style tank, almost.

I do not believe that condensate is an issue, at least not a big issue. Yes, vapor will indeed form when temp drops below the dew point. However the volume and airspeed in the piping is such that any condensate will get blown right into the engine. I've known folks to inject alcohol into the turbocharger intake (sans intercooling I believe) and had no issues with fluid in the piping, certainly that was a greater volume than you'd get with condensate. Indeed the Mustang we tuned didn't care at all about the vapor I'm sure it was ingesting, free water injection IMO I wish I'd gotten video of that thing, it was pretty sick. We left a plug wire off once and freaked when power dropped off by more than 100 from the previous pull but the thing idled and pulled fine on 7 cylinders! As for A/C cooling the airstream... In short bursts yes I'd agree that works, the Lightning concept truck did this actually by cooling a secondary medium like water I think. But continuosly? I don't think so, not in a manner that is feasible. The amount of power to compress the coolant and the size of the heat exchanger(s) do not seem to me to be practical unless it's only a small temp difference you want. There's no free lunch and this reminds me much of the guys who thought putting a computer in a small refrigerator would yield superior cooling. They quickly found out that wasn't so! If it were easy and practical I think it would certainly have been done already, possibly even by the OEMs. Certainly it's not a new idea as I've heard it proposed a few times. Heck, Autospeed might have even tried it once upon a time, I'll have to look. The volume of air an engine ingests (and thus must be cooled) is pretty extreme, I've actually seen people try to dyno test those silly electric bilge pumps as blowers (ahem) and when that didn't work tried feeding a gas powered lawn blower into the intake full blast - the engine was still restricted at WOT (lol). The temp drops we get from A2A intercoolers today are often as good as they are because the intercooler is acting as a heatsink not because it can keep up with the heat going through it - once it's heatsoaked temps climb. The advantage of water is that it's like a MUCH larger mass and easier to package since it's a fluid, that it transfers the heat to the medium so readily is a big bonus. Once it's heatsoaked though the same thing occurs - temps climb. I watercool my computer because of this, temps change slowly as loads are absorbed unlike when I used air and even minor changes in ambient could be noted. Some interesting things I've noted on the dyno in the past... When I'd cool an intercooler with alcohol and then do pulls I found that my intercooler would get warm from the intake side first and that the heat would then slowly creep to the outlet side. When I tested Supra with the smaller intercoolers I often found that after only one or two pulls the entire surface was warm. The difference in the intercooler I ran vs the other was mostly mass - mine was noticably thicker (3row vs 4row Greddy). When you'd start a pull intake temps would often go up and then down, it took a second to clear the warmer stagnant air. I saw that on the street too, temps would be high puttering around or idling, go up as I went WOT, and then drop before slowly coming up. On the drag strip I'd launch with elevated RPMs and warm air, see temps drop, level off, and then go up by as much as 10 degrees or so by the traps. As soon as I let off temps jumped up! That was the intercooler dumping heat it had absorbed into the intake stream. Driving around airflow was slow enough that it seemed to pickup heat from the piping and intake. I'd like to try insulated pipes (plastic maybe?) and ceramic coatings on the intake sometime. One thing I never got to do was put a temp probe at the turbo inletoutlet - I'll strive to do that sort of testing when I've got another car I can play with I really was a data junkie

From a loss standpoint I'm not sure that would be any better when it sits in the hot garage but yeah at least it would be burned off while driving. I think the OEMs do that through a charcoal cannister and in the old Zs they did it to a tank in the right rear quarter where it could condense and go back - hence the fumes. Frustrating problem...

Come to think of it, I also had this issue when I tried sealing the tank - eventually the pump couldn't overcome it. There has to be a way to do this and I cannot be the first to encounter this. As for pump voltage, I'm *not* a proponent of overvolting pumps. For one when you overvolt you lose amperage capacity - there's no free lunch. Walbro makes some good EFI pumps both internal and external although my 240 is carb'ed right now. My Supra ran dual HP Walbro pumps to over 700RWHP, I knew guys running triples, there were zero fueling issues even at 34PSI of positive pressure FWIW, the Supra pump ain't so hot although I know many like it - you're better off with dual Walbro as the Supra pump sux massive amps. Dual Walbro suck less thana single Supra pump...

In my case I put it in front of a 3Liter 2JZGTE in a Supra Perhaps put it in as a pusher? The Cobra fan is worth looking at too, just depends on the car. My 240Z has a Cobra fan in front of a 383SBC. Both work well. Can measure it's depth if someone wants. I need to put my WEB server back up so you can see pics

Well, with the larger IC and tubing I couldn't measure nor feel the difference. That was a 3liter motor which is pretty close to the L28 in size. Everyone who said it would be awful had never actually measured nor tried it. To be honest I found that sort of thing alot where folks thought things obvious but testing proved otherwise. Autospeed has done some great work on intercooling and I FULLY agree with their comment about them being heatsinks more so than radiators. The tests I did proved this out, their testing with water spray bore it out too. BTW, when dynoing I suggest spraying the IC with a mix of water and rubbing alcohol between pulls to help cool it down - this works! Here's a good article to read too -> http://autospeed.drive.com.au/A_107760/cms/article.html Not seen the Fusion article but it has some of the same info as the one I'm linking. The use of a boat water exchanger is interesting! Interesting how small a radiator they use for the water, the aftermarket ones for the lightings are pretty big by comparison....