BLKMGK

I'll host if needed. I have space but not a ton of bandwidth Can handle the small stuff no biggie so shoot them to me if you'd like.

Hwy, I kow I'm a bad example for the budget guys but... the stuff I just bought was headers (ceramic) and fittings mostly. Oh yeah, a $30 preluber to. Remote mounting the filter is something I think most of us are doing and I did go with the Aeroquip rubber stuff and not braided so I was tryin to do it right without spending a ton. It's just amazing how the little stuff adds up when you're not looking. Not my first project though so I did sort of expect that... BTW - this Aeroquip hose is AWESOME! It's light as a feather and I've had it on other cars without realizing where it came from - it's tough as nails! Fitings aren't as expensive as braided stuff and it's easier to work with. I'm almost wishing I'd used it for my fuel line, cheaper, lighter, easier to work with.... I'm just not sure it would have the same impact resistance. Much reccomended for things like oil filters and whatnot.

Okay, I've got a set of Flowtechs... I think they're only 1.5inches. If anyone else is running Edelbrock heads think twice about running a 1.5inch collector. My heads port matches the FelPro gasket perfectly, the FlowTechs have a good bit of overlap with the port - NOT cool! I'll post a pic of this on my WEB page asap. I also found RUST in the collector - these are ceramic coated headers! The ceramic needed a touch of buffing too as they got roughed up in shipping. A few dings were in them prior to coating it looks like but nothing that will impede flow. On the plus side - thse puppies fit like they were MADE for the JTR setup. They sneak right past the steering linkage and real close to the motor set back plates but they touch NOWHERE! They dropped right in smooth as silk. My Stage 8 locking hardware won't work on at least two tubes but that's not a big surprise honestly. Overall I think I'm okay with these headers but I think that if I had to do it again I'd like a better alernative. Unfortunatly I'm not sure who offers one that we KNOW works as well as these. (shrug) I've ordered the "Toobs" that allow easy hookup of the exhaust too and will let everyone know how that works out, I may wrap them... [ May 02, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Sweet! Thanks for pointing the site out to me guys, this time I've downloaded and archived the articles that intrested me. The WRX articles look cool too - I want one! Really cool site, I'd love to build one of those controllers for my RX7 but I dare not risk the motor - it's probably close to lean now. Will get that worked out and bump the boost via the ECU one of these days, it'll fly. Pretty cool setup they built and it sounds like Scottie's is pretty neat too. Sure beats spending a ton of money if you can help it. Heh, I've got an EVC IV in the garage barely used who's solenoid went out - ouch!

Guys I put a search into one of the junkyard databases - I had quotes as low as $35 for a COMPLETE Taurus fan assembly! Kripes, you can't beat that with a stick and it moves massive amounts of air...

Owen, I bought 1/2 to -8 fittings (4), hose (10feet for $29), 2 90 degree fittings, and two straight fittings last night. Cha-ching! However I know it will hold and look decent. I could've bought 1/2inch brass fittings and used hose clamps but I just didn't think it would look very good and the clamps can cut into th ehose. At least use the fittings on th eremote filter so it won't be so visible. The block fitting I bought was $49 too - not cheap but it's billet and has no bypass. The remote filter housing had hosizontal fittings instead of having them come out of the top like many of them do this way the hose routing is easier to do - make sure you consider where you're going to put it and pay attention to that.... Fun and games, I'll let you know how it goes....

Yeah, no kidding on the budget thing. Last night I ordered headers, some fittings, oil filter relocating stuff etc. Can you say $550?! Ouch..... Still need alternator, starter, radiator - it all adds up so be prepared before you start.

Correct. PeakHold injectors are "faster" and can supposedly be used with both types of drivers but the saturated cannot be used on a driver setup made for peakhold. The peakhold injectors "snap" open and can be idled down further as I recall. there's a point with injectors where you try to open and close them so fast that hysterysis (sp?!) sets in. The mass of the pintle etc. prevents the injector from opening when the signal is sent for a short period of time, if you try to close the injector before this time period has passed the injector never opens or opens only partially. The result is no fuel or a dribble instead of an atomized spray. Idle quality obviously goes right out the window! I believe that this would be worst on batch fire systems like the older DFI. Also, don't forget that 100% duty cycle isn't a static number. As RPM increases this number gets smaller as there's less time between firings. I ran one of my old maps through an Excel spreadsheet once and was a bit surprised to find that I was static at some points. It's a good idea when programming an ECU to run the math through an Excel spreadsheet so you know where that point is for each RPM. Oh, and I don't think Iever damaged my injectors with this abuse but I do know that one of them was dribbling - the EGTs on one side were ALWAYS colder and the O2 reading was of as well. I think I even managed to figure out which injector it was by pulling plug wires till I found the one that made the least difference in the readings

Heh, now weigh a Tremec 5speed It's a pig too IMO and I'll bet it's pushing close to 100lbs. The blowproof shields, if you use one, are scary fat too!

Firsty I was wrong about Ford's use of th eknock sensors, they're using them today on at least a few hi-po cars and maybe more. I'm betting OBD-II had something to do with it! The Cobra and Lightning both use them and I'd bet it's a pretty sophisticated system too. As for the ESC module, yup that's what the DFI uses. And no with the older DFI you had NO control over how sensitive it was but I think you might have been able to adjust how much timing it pulled - it's been awhile since I've used the really lousy DFI software (ahem). The newer systems might be more flexible and I'd hope that they're using updated electronics and sensors. Anyway, Scottie is stuck with stock electronics and considering that he's been able to modify the stock programming and do data logging I cannot imagine him wanting to change that. So, what can he do to diagnose this? I think I'd start by clearancing things, sounds like he's done that. Next if it's still occuring I think I'd step backwards on the tune to where it's tame and he can expect no knock, if it's still retarding then I'd suspect the ESC module or more likely the sensor. Since there's a whole ton of programming going on I'd step back to an older more docile PROM too - just in case. Maybe even some electrical interference? Scottie is it possible something in the motor has changed? Oil getting into the intake charge? How do the plugs look, any metallic deposits to indicate knock? Can you datalog fuel pressure? Heh, I'd be tempted to pull the knock sensor's lead and listen to it one time to see if you think it's knocking but after the "fun" you had getting the heads to seal the last time perhaps it's not worth a potential head gasket failure.

There's an Aussie site out there with COMPLETE plans fo a VERY nice manual boost controller. Part of the site is subscription, part public. The public part has the plans and tests of the setup but I cannot find the darned site. If anyone happens across it please speak up as it had part numbers for industrial valves in the proper pressure range and everything! A complete system that does much of the same thing Scottie's does with checkvalves and all wasn't too expensive at all. (sigh) I've got it bookmarked somewhere and will post if I can dig it up - was a really cool how-to site...

Don't have a price in mind but shipping that trans would be a giant PITA. I'll have to check the garage to see what model ignition is on the 2.8, I'm just not sure but it was a Crane something or other. I think I've seen it in MSA or VB but I'm not 100% it's the exact same one. I won't be using it I'm sure. Hrm, E-Bay item perhaps?

lil - most of the aftermarket ECUs that have knock detection USE the OEM GM sensors like the one on Scotties car - I HAD one. Same part numbers and all I'd bet. My MAP sensor was the same too It's a little piezo microphone type deal in a silver can that's screwed into the block. It then had a single wire that ran to a GM black box that interfaced with the ECU. The little black box looking thing was the only part that I BELIEVE changed between 6 and 8cyl cars. Back in '87 the GN and the TPI cars were some of the of th efirst American cars running around with knock sensors. Ford still doesn't really seem to use them and the SVO is the only Mustang I know of to have a knock sensor (I think). Scottie - fire up the datalogging and go tap on the exhaust pipe - does it show anything? Obviously it could be somehting else including knock but if I saw ANY sort of contact on the exhaust system and was having knock sensor issues I'd clearance things ASAP! Scottie, try this - reduce the boost way down and unplug the knock sensor. How does the car perform? Maybe just reduce boost way down and leave the sensor plugged in to see if it still picks up stuff? You're running race gas and not a ton of timing so if the boost is down then anything it picks up has got to be coming from elsewhere, yes?

hrm so what dos disabling the bypass valve do for you? I'm about to buy an adapter that does that so this is an important question! What about System 1 filters? Just a screen really and I change oil often so... That's what's on the Mustang - talk about a mess to clean when you pop a head gasket (ick). I'm considering one for the Z and will be remote mounting a filter.

Guys, look at the ram-air setup on Mikelly's car. He used one of those ram-air setups advertised on the back of various mags andpposted here awhile back as to which pieces worked best. This is my intent - nice big fiberglass air cleaner with hoses run up front through the radiator area or perhaps down low. The issue I'd see with the blow through setup is that those little air horns are small (IMO). They don't leave much room for the air to turn before entering the carb and would hamper airflow on a N/A setup I believe. Best to have nice wide radius I think. Lastly, I thought base of windshield was a LOW pressure area? It works because a low pressure area allows the engine to inhale easily and hot air escapes back there for the same reason. Up front is a high pressure area - force fed like a beer bong (lol). With the weirdo' aero on a Z it might be worth checking up fron to be sure though. Maybe put some small paper strips at the base of the windshield to test that area too?

Hrm, I've got one of th eCrane setups sitting on an L28 in the garage - it used a module that came out of an HEI I think. I know pretty much diddly about the L28 stuff but it's for sale along with the two motors and a 5speed (shrug). BTW, for th eV8 stuff I look at digital boxes. The old MSD stuff is analog and after having a 6AL leave me stranded at 2:00am on a bone chilling night I won't run their stuff again - no warning it just DIED. I bought an ACCELL box as a replacement after talking to an engineer who's company desgiend the box, no it was NOT ACCELL that did it. I usually hate their stuff but this box worked well for about 2 years and is still good. Other Mustang guys warned me away from the then new Crane stuff, for some reason the Crane boxes were changing base timing when installed and it worried folks. Jacobs is an option but I watched a guy back to back one of their boxes at the track and lose 3 tenths (shrug). Big advantage to going with a digital box is it doesn't draw as much juice and can take bumps if potted well. Potential downside is it may be more sensitive to electrical shocks - say from welding. Mike, you did unplug the MSD before doing all that welding on your car didn't you?

Umm, I'm confused on the injector question - how will they run 100% static full time?! And yes, this will damage them if done that way. Injectors are electromagnets and heat up when turned on - if run 100% static for a decent length of time damage WILL occur. In fact, it's been said that you shouldn't run them more than about 85% as a general rule of thumb but I've done it (ahem).

I've seen this done on two cars now - looks like JBWeld was used! Back it up with packing tape and slap it in the hole, let it set, then sand it flat. On my car there are actually drips inside where it ran down the insides (shrug). I used JB on "extra" holes in the engine bay myself - it came out okay but the paint didn't lay as well as I'd like.

Spoke to a guy at a local Datsun shop last Saturday out my way - one side framerailfloorpan replaced is $1500. X2 if you want both sides done! My framerails are dinged a bit by idiots with jacks but have no rust - talk about a delima. I'm wondering if the dents can be pulled by a skilled bodyshop and I'm afraid of what a frame guy might tell me - drove fine though.

I dunno' about "super cheap" but if you think the MSA price is high wait till you eat the shipping and handling charges on one of those puppies! I'm NOT going to be using the front spoiler and most likely NOT going to be using the rear wing I've got. I don't recall price to be honest but I could pull out an MSA catalog and weep if you're serious. Oh, urethane spoiler was made by XENON

Just a point - putting on the 300Z 5lug hubs changes the offset up front I believe. Since this isn't a slip on rotor changes you make to the rotors aluminum hub won't change the wheel mounting surface. IF you stick with 4lug stuff then this isn't an issue however I believe you'll find wheel selection limited. Go price out the BREMBO 12X1.25 rotors. Or maybe the Coleman stuff - that's apples to apples I believe. Another possibility for those who are warping and cracking rotors - look into cryro treatments. Some of the stories I've been hearing about improved life are incredible! Unfortunatly this adds to the cost. Toyota 4X4 calipers are indeed HEAVY. A pair of Outlaw calipers weigh less than a single Toyota caliper I'd wager. However the 12X1.25 rotor is seriously beefy - overall I'm not sure you really save any weight there. Hrm, oh yeah - MikeSCCA races much of what he sells....

Nothing wrong with the 4X4 setup, especially the vented one. However some of us want the looks of the larger brakes and the added braking ability that you get. Don't forget though - if you can lock the tire up at will a bigger brake won't stop faster. It might fade less under hard repeated use but it won't stop shorter. I expect the 12 inch brakes on my car to lock pretty easily when I'm done but that I'll be able to modulate them well too. The rear brakes are where it's a crapshoot - ZX, Maxima, custom Outlaw stuff - lot's of options, many with solid rotors. Don't forget the E-brake too, keeping it is a PITA and finding brackets can be difficult. Go with good padsshoes, braided lines, and go with the Toy calipers - it'll be pretty good but not look anything like the Outlaw stuff Nothing wrong with that at all IMO, different strokes for different folks.

To save money I'm looking at the Aeroquip socket type stuff, Russel makes some too. The fittings are cheaper and so is the hose. I've had some of th eAeroquip stuff before - talk about tough stuff! Easier to work with than braided too but I'm not sure it has the same abrasion resistance. I'd NOT use standard rubber hose IMO - one pinhole will ruin your whole day!

Owne, look a little higher up the page - there's a billet remote filter block that eliminates the bypass too. However if you read the above post you'll realize that the filter can cause bearing starvation - that's what I'm concerned about bypassing the oil filter bypass! As for the air filter being the only way dirt gets in - I'd argue that's not true. Residue from the oil - like the coking that occurs on a turbo motor can cause problems too. Heck, what about garbage that gets past the fuel filter? Valve breathers maybe?

Nah, the knock sensors will pick up all sorts of things - I'm told that gravel hitting the exhaust can even set it off - no kidding! I had a GM knock sensor on the Mustang when I was running a DFI - free revving the motor I could occasionally get it to register valvetrain noise as knock! Needless to say I didn't use the knock sensor much. Banging the pipes on the chassis would certainly set it off - I've little doubt.