BLKMGK

Heh, I'm still wondering what color to make the lights in my Phantoms. White is pretty darned bright, I think I might try blue from a marker to see how it looks. Anyone find a color they really like? A real shame that Autometer killed the EL line - I wanted those badly!

Yeah, stock console works fine - with the T56 too It fits a bit to the driver's side in the hole and a bit towards the back but it should all bolt-in. I too desired keeping th econsole and made sure the year I picked would allow it - had I been smarter and researched more I'd have tried for a 260 since I like their consoles better than my 240's. Finding a NOS console cost me a bit too - I will NOT cut this puppy up! Wish I could fixup the heater console a bit better though...

We've got one of these beasts too - it's a blast. GM did make some mistakes with it like using crappy carpet (!) but it's a decent car. I expect ours will get Cadillac carpet here soon They did indeed kill the line making these cars, they did it to produce trucks and SUVs I believe. They do weigh a bit more than an F-Body and are down about 40HP but they run on regular gas just fine! The LT1-Edit software works onthem too - a great candidate for a Z swap would be a Caprice of those years IMO. Just not sure the 4LE trans would be an easy swap...

Lone - the Tremec 5speed is a big heavy pig too. It CAN be swapped in place of a T5 but it's still pretty fat. I'll never forget sweating on my back one day trying to get that sucker in the darned car! It can move th eshifter aorund some though and that's a big plus. Not sure how easy it is to do this or how expensive the parts are but in this case it certainly offers some help on placement.

Well, my first thought is that 500-600HP is quite a bit, you might want to try driving it with say 300-400HP first. I've got a feeling that at 600HP traction would be your biggest problem! If you seriously mod the turbo and EFI on the existing L6 what makes you think you'll pass emissions any better with that setup? You may find yourself in the same boat with even less HP! Try heading over to a good shop or even a referee station in Maryland and find out EXACTLY what they expect. Lastly, if you really want that sort of "fun" perhaps consider a second older Z to do the swap and just enjoy the 84 as is.... Jacobs ignition - that's one of the first success stories I've heard about them! I actually watched a guy at the track buy one and install it back to back VS an MSD box - his car slowed like 3tenths! Some of their claims seem pretty incredible. Personally I like the newer digital boxes like the new ACCELL lineup - NOT designed by ACCELL BTW

Thanks Pete. I took a real hard look at it last night and it does indeed have one input and two outlets for a carb. Not a real efficient looking thing so I'm glad it's not got to flow too much fuel! Geez I hate carbs...

Will check the JTR book... have no tire well anymore Considered mounting it to the mounting rail for the fuel cell but decided against it for now. Instructions say it should be mounted BELOW the sump - yeah right! I don't think I should be mounting ANYTHING that low....

Yeah, if NA then mod the heck out of it with a V8 or whatnot (lol). As for the GN drivetrain - heck yeah I'd do that. The GN community is HUGE with parts everywhere, I think that give the edge to the GN swap Drax. Is there that much out there for the older 300ZX motor? Truly, I'm ignorant on this (shrug). I've just seen so many darned fast GNs and so few single turbo Zs that were fast around here. TTs yes, we've got more than a few of those I actually debated buying one but fell into the RX7.. Stan, what have you got planned?

Cool, thanks Lone. I'd hoped it would shift as well as the T5 since Borg designed both of them. Not too worried about the height to be honest - I only got the shifter, no handle. I've found that the Mustang T5 handles fit just fine though Several companies make cheap short ones and I can cut this one down if I want. I've already got one aftermarket one that's shorter in the garage so that's probably what I'll use. I can hardly wait! Is 6th usable for you? What rear ratio?

Did you "bench bleed" the master? I watched someone nearly pull their hair out after swapping a master on a Bronco who didn't bench bleed. Silly thing had air in it and no amount of wheel bleeding would get it out. We had to pull the hoses from the master up front, loop them into the resevior up top, and cycle the fluid round and round till the air was out. Once done it was perfect - real head scratcher for awhile. If it's just soft up top the adjuster rod might also be a good idea to fiddle with - PITA that it will be. Since I'm swapping all of my brake stuff at the wheels I'm sure I'll have probs too but I've got NO idea what I'lll be using for booster and master just yet (sigh).

Heh, don't suppose a solid mount is an option? That's what I did in hopes of getting aorund all the tearing bushing clunking probs. I'm sure it'll be noisier but I'm willing to deal with it for something that's NOT a daily driver... FWIW - I too went through the same gyrations you did. It had been so long since I'd pulled it apart I had a heck of a time recalling how it all went back together. Had to shove the moustache bar back 1/4 inch too - what a PITA! Scared the heck out of me when the front stud dropped in - I was UNDER the diff when it popped - yikes! But it's done at last...

Ooh Ooh! I'm doing the Outlaw stuff too - did you go 5lug? How did you do the rear Spts? Mike's working on a bracket for me using a solid rear rotor - he said the WilWood Spots have a completely different offset - bleah! Hope to have mine done pretty soon too. I'm not quite to the point of putting the fronts on yet, seems I need some bearings but I'd love to see pics of your setup! Brakes and plumbing everything is all that's holding me up right now - I'm excited!

Hrm, if you got the same thing I did the calipers should've been NEWrebuilds. Mike gets them someplace up near him - mine were loaded and appeared to be in good shape ready to bolt on. Likewise - I got all the bolts for the spacers but I was going 5lug so it might have been different parts. Never did bolt it on though as I went to the Outlaws before I got around to it so I don't know if there was any rubbing Shoot Mike a note and he'll help you out I'm sure. I think he might be out of town right now though so don't get excited if he doesn't get right back. He's helped me out with some truly STUPID questions I've had (ahem).

Yeah, what Lone said. It sounds liek you don't need "adapters" but just need spacers - yes? If so head for Pep Boys and snag one of their "universal" spacers - these are what I had on my previous wheels and they worked fine. If you only need a little room these should work fine...

Davy and Terry are spot on - the pad vibrates and the somewhat viscous goo on the BACK is supposed to dampen that. Don't put it on the front, trust me As for the speed bleeders - they've got a one way check valve in them. This is supposed to prevent air from backing in when you let up the pedal. The bottle and tube thing works for this too but ONLY if the seal on the nipple is tight, fluid is in the bottom of the bottle, and you push ALL the air out of the hose on the first stroke. When done right any backflush is sucking up fluid from the bottle... I think the speed bleeders are a great idea to be honest but I'm told I shouldn't have any trouble bleeding the Outlaw calipers and not to buy them (shrug). I hope that bleeding will only be an occasional thing anyway

Hrm, if the bypass is ALLOWED to work on a remote mount I'd think that the added backpressure seen from the lines and whatnot would cause it to activate even sooner - ick! VERY informative site BTW but I couldn't get his final conclusion page to come up - 404 - anyone else see it? Seems I will NEVER be using FRAM again, especially after Mike's confirmation! Now for my problem that seems appropriate here... My block has no spin on fitting. No way to put a filter in there. I'm thinking I'm missing a few pieces If I simply buy a relocate kit will I have the pieces I need or will I need to hit the dealer again? Kripes, I could do this on a silly Ford but a GM?! (sigh) TIA!

Just a side note - I'm chasing a driver's side alternator bracket from a 'Vette that's SUPPOSED to work with a short water pump. It's $15 (!!) from GM I'm told and made of aluminum. Don't have it in my hot hands but a friend claims to have used one on three cars and is going to get it for me Will update when I actually getit...

Judging from Scottie's link the weights are probably within 200lbs of each other. I don't know how much fabbing it took to get a GN drivetrainin the RX7 but I'd certainly research that pretty good before doing it. Older RX7s darn near fall out of trees as people don't understand taking care of the rotory it seems so picking one up shouldn't be too bad. Finding a rear with a decent ratio might be tough though - 4:10 ouch! Scottie's having a tough time with a 3.?? in his and wants a 3.3:1 - how do the tire heights compare on the RX vs the 240? Scottie - you tried a taller tire yet?

Hrm, glasspacks in the rockers? First and foremost - glasspacks aren't the be all end all with regards to flow. Depending upon which you buy you may find that they cork the motor up worse than a good flow-through muffler like a Flowmaster! Noise doesn't equal power - lately some tests have even found that motors can make MORE power with a muffler - if done right. If you like the sound go for it but I don't think it's what I'll be using. Lastly, if you put those in the rockers they will get pretty hot. Is there not room elsewhere under the car? I know you're not talking about cutting the steel but putting them in the covers but I'd think that burning the pain would be a big concern. My RX7 has melted a bit of the rear fascica fromthe TIP of the exhaust getting hot - I can't imagine what it would be like further forward. My Mustang's stainless tips get pretty hot too so it's not just the rotories added heat. Maybe consider moving them up by the driveshaft? Since the rear isn't "live" you'd have less worries about the driveshaft moving around. Cooking the console would be an issue maybe? I dunno' - if you try it let us know how it works out. I'm leaning towards some of those stainless Rice mufflers like I see on 300ZXs or a set of DynoMax Ultras. The Ultras would be cheaper and probably quieter (?) but not look as good. A few ponies sacrificed to backpressure is no big deal to me, I'll save my hearing at least....

I started looking for places to mount by Blue today... where the blast can ya' put it?!! And do they require a return style regualtor? I've not looked closely at the one that shipped with it but I could swear it was a deadhead type, no? What are folks using for filters too... Now that my rear is finally in I'm looking to fuel pumps and fuel lines

Does the regulator that comes with the Blue require a return? I thought it was a deadhead pump. Uh oh!

I've done this - on the Mustang. One of the things to beware of is that if the lip is large it will want to tear or stretch th emetal as it's rolled up - this is why cuts are sometimes made. On th eMustang I had to make cuts and I used vice grips to hold the edge. A small hammer was also used and it should be backed up with a dolly or stiff sandbag. Bare metal is no biggie - a little metal treatment and it's fine, spray paint it afterwards (shrug). I've heard of the bat treatment - and have heard of people really hosing it too so....

I dunno guys - if I got hold of one of the later TT 300Zs I'd just mod the heck out of it and be happy I raced one today on the road a bit in the RX7, he couldn't pull away and I couldn't catch him. Not sure what was done but it was pretty sweet. Mike with the emissions laws here I'm not sure I'd try it either even with a late model motor. They'd want the cats and everything on it - ouch!

MSA has these bumpers - like $150 apiece I think. The ArizonaZ guy DOES expect his $1K minimum for doing these BTW - I laughed and hung up. I HAVE the MSA bumpers - they are SWEET! Extremely light, decent gelcoat, and required little work to install by the bodyshop. I have ZERO regrets at having these done and the price was decent too IMO. If someone could make and sell them for $100 it owuld be a steal and probably in high demand. Not sure what shipping will cost for them tho'...

Weight of my stock 240 hood was 30lbs. Weight of the aftermarket 'glass hood was 15lbs. IMO it's not a very heavy part all things considered...