BLKMGK

Aww, you're making me go out to the garage Lap belt is listed as a Simpson 10-100. "Simpson Lap belt, Pull down, Red, Wrap". I'm having to use hooks to secure this to my stock mount points - no problem if you buy the hook kit, normally it's made to wrap over a tube. Shoulders are listed as #33002 and is a 48inch wrap belt. This might be a bit long but they adjust pretty easily. Don't have the sub belt handy to check or the hook and eye bolt numbers. Look through Summit or Jegs to find that stuff (shrug). Mine still aren't fully mounted due to other things taking precedence...

There are a coulpe of companies making split gauges. I gave one to scottie as a matter of fact - he'll know who the manufacturer is as I've gorfotten. Aircraft gauges tend to be "split" so head over to Aircraft Spruce and Specialty to see what they've got. Lastly, "AutoAvionics" used to make a TON of gauges like this - I've got one of their dual EGT gauges. Don't know if they're still around but it might be worth looking them up. Consider piller mounting gauges too, I tried a Mustang pillar mont BTW - poor fit I'm afraid...

I posted about this awhile back. I think the aftermarket will jump on this puppy, GM already has one making a ton of power in a hillclimber. It's got some great features and is pretty modern. We'll see when it comes out but I too wish the SUV craze would end already....

FWIW - I went with a single plane for two reasons - the first was to kill low end torque. Yup, I don't want a ton of really low end torque in such a light car. Th esecond was that I would have an easier time converting this intake to EFI than a dual plane. Yeah, the fuel may be lazier in the runners at low RPM and fall out of suspension but that's okay, when I go EFI it won't matter (shrug). I'm not sure the air gap helps much but every degree of temp you get it down is free power so take it if you can...

A Roots motor can make serious power, there was a V8 monza around here with the baby Roots on it that rocked! Fuel injecting one of these wouldn't ba ANY harder than it would any other and probably easier to be honest. Roots blowers need fuel through them to cool and to lubricate - you'd just need a "spraybar" kind of deal to batch fire the fuel in the top of the blower! How some of these blower makers like BDS get away with selling their EFI for so much is beyond me. I just don't like the Roots as much because of packaging and intake temp issues but iot can't be beat for low end grunt. It doesn't need to spin up - it makes boost NOW

Mike's right - most of these guys run boost controllers with multiple settings. There's no use in running it set for "stun" on the highway going to work and in the daily commute that's asking for it! When the time comes though a push of the button pops the boost to the moon As for how it's done... Toyota overbuilt that motor. Just like Nissan does the Skyline's drivetrain. Honda does the same for some of it's motors too but not to the same extreme. 600hp is supposed to be pretty easy on a BPU Supra, getting 800 however takes a bit more work but it can be done without major mods. Will it run forever? Nah, but it'll do fine so long as you keep your nasty tennis shoe out of th efirewall and don't get stupid with the boost. I'm personally waitig for prices on these puppies to fall so I can get my hands on one, till then I'll live with the RX7

Yuo can run a bit more than 5-6lbs. Mustang guys run 10 and more on the street. The trick to this is keeping the intake temps DOWN. This is why intercooling is so important. Ever seen a test of the Kenny Bell blower? Intake temps on that sucker are incredible and I'm told it's nickname is the popcorn machine! It's intake temps can be as high as 80 degrees or more over ambient (from memory, be gentle). Can you say detonation? Get that tempt down near ambient and you can run much more boost. My P1200 is setup to run about 10lbs on a motor with compression probably edging on 10:1 (not quite but close). We actually had go with a pretty big pulley to keep it that low. I could probably run about 5 more lbs of boost on that motor but honestly there's no reason to IMO. It's hot air that will kill things. Vortech swore that wasn't true for years and even tried to sue ProCharger after they made claims of making more power. Strangely enough they never once chose to meet ProCharger's challenges for a shoot out and now offer intercoolers themselves. More correctly they're aftercoolers BTW Paxton has yet to do this that I know about and they're ball drive chargers were pretty ineffecient past 5-6lbs of boost. I had one on a 302 and after changing heads and intake my 8lbs of boost dropped to about 5. This is normal - I removed the corks. I called Paxton and asked about getting more boost - seems the cast impeller and ball drive couldn't do it without spending big bux. I sold the kit and went turbo. To get 5-6lbs on a 350 you were spinning it pretty hard but at least you were running a later version than I was. Getting much more would've possibly meant overspeeding it - not good if the impeller goes. I've met guys who've blown impellers, ruins your whole day! Last but not least - when shopping for blowers or comparing cars don't get caught up in the boost race. Boost is a measure of backpressure in the intake, this is why I lost boost on my car after changing heads and intake. I was still moving th esame amount of air, it just wasn't piling up as eaisly in the intake. With a turbo car you don't notice this as much since the wastegate simply speeds the turbo up, eventually you overspeed those though too. I always have to laugh when two Mustang guys get together and race boost level. The one with the most boost always thinks he'll win and that's NOT always the case. Different brands and modesl of blower have different effecieny maps too and that makes a difference. It's like a compressor map for a turbo, if your blower doesn't make boost till it's spun to the moon it's not going to do much good on a stock motor with stock gears (ahem). Anyway, enough rambling. I'll answer questions if I can. I'm not sure what kit fits best in the Z engine bay but some of th eLT1 kits are pretty tight bracket wise. I'll try to get a peek at one of them over at the shop and post about it if I can, maybe get some measurements one day...

Okay, let's talk about alternate ideas... Mike/SCCA is working on a setup for me right now using Outlaw rear calipers. Guys, these things cost right about where the ZX stuff does, is aluminum, and looks damned nice! The Wilwood calipers might also work if that's your preference. Yes, there's no E-brake but he's waiting on a set of Wilwood Spotz now that should be adaptable. In my case I'm 5lug but he should be able to accomodate 4lug if there's demand enough. I'm not sure hwo easily the E-brake cables will bolt up but I note that Lokar is making a cut to fit cable now too. Yeah, this all adds up but... Presently I'm looking at 10inch rotors. However Mike thinks that 11inch will work better (anyone want a set of 10inch 5lug with 0 miles?) and I've asked him if there's a vented OEM rotor to consider too (hey, why not?). I'm not sure what the brackets will cost, heck I don't even think Mike knows yet, but I think when you add up the costs and the hassle of getting good SX or ZX rear brakes that this is an option worth considering. Hell, at this point I'm paying for the R&D so at least consider it BTW - should have my fronts all done here soon. I've made some silly mistakes like swapping the struts side for side and control arms too but it's getting there! Should have it done this weekend and some pics up as well when I've got time. This sucker is going to have NO problems stopping!

My friend's shop is one of th eonly dealers for ATI in Virginia. A few other shops make that claim but a call to ATI always proves them to be liars - I've seen TONS of ATI blowers as a result IMO they make a good blower. I've seen, aside from the troubles Darius has had, two of them with problems. One was an early numbered one right after they switched to their newer D's from the P series. It had oil seal failure and pumped a ton of oil into the motor's intake and was on my friend's car (the one who owns the shop). ATI took care of him and found a manufacturing defect in the housing. The second one is one at their shop now, it's not making the boost it should and has been beat on pretty good. Don't know the whole story on it but it's going back to ATI. Oh, a third was my P1200. It had a cog belt on it and was raced pretty hard. The bearings had a little play in them and the impeller was coming too close to the housing as it wobbled. No contact but visible defelction. I had ATI put new bearings in it and when it came back there was NO deflection. It's not gotten many miles on it since then as the Mustang has been parked... I paid for the new bearings but they were fairly quick about it. Not sure what went wrong with Darius' blower but ATI took care of it. ATI seems like good people and if you're honest and polite with them they stand behind their products. My friend likes the new "oiless" series they've got. No holes in the pan and it's a TINY bit quieter - not much though. My P1200 can be heard over the exhaust easily BTW. However with the oiless models you MUST use the ATI oil - it has a tattletale dye in it and if you don't and it fails they WILL know about it. No warranty claims would be honored if you don't do this. What I don't like about the new D series and these new oiless blowers is that they stick out to the side more, at least on Mustang applications. Space could be an issue. Lastly, you're asking about using one on a carb. I posted earlier about this but I'll say it again - don't. You can make it work but IMO it's a hassle to tune and people I've met who have don't it regretted it. Draw through blowers like Roots style work better for this unless you want to draw through the ATI blower - ick. No intercooler if you do that Well gotta' run but that's my 20 cents worth on it. If you've got questions about the ATI stuff I can try to get you answers. If you're in VA I can help you with a deal maybe an dused Ford blowers are always aorund for sale here, people keep moving up to bigger blowers!

I'd skip over Powerdyne, Paxton and Vortech are merging too so I'm not sure how that will work out. As for CR - you don't need a low compression ratio if the intake charge is kept cool enough. On a roots blower you have to pull tons of timing and run low boost because the air is so hot, no so on a centrifigul or intercooled turbo. Stock late model camaros with blowers are running 10lbs of boost with CRs over 9.5 I believe - note the aluminum heads though. FOX Mustangs had a factory CR of a little over 9:1 and can run over 10lbs of boost if tuned correctly. Given a choice run EFI. While a carb CAN be made to run with a blow through type system carbs work best with Roots blowers - just watch the hood clearance (ahem). EFI on the oher hand is much more precise, and costs it too! Folks I've spoken to locally who have run carbs with ProChargers have told me that tunng is a PITA and that given a choice they wouldn't do it again.... I'd say build a healthy SBC, drive it, and if you need more power THEN consider a blower. Don't built it with too much compression but about 9:1 or so would be good and keep you out of detonation on pump gas. A bottle can always be employed too This is pretty much what I intend to do - drive it carbed, move up to EFI next year, and if I really want more power I'll look at a ProCharger setup. In the meantime carb NOS systems are fairly cheap so....

24X19 is what I've ordered - I'm getting the HOWE one since th eAFCO was indeed backordered a day or two and the HOWE was in stock. Distance between the framerails on my 240 is 25inches so the 24 works well. I could go taller I suppose but nothing was readily offered that was taller and the hole in the front of the car isn't that big anyway (shrug). I'll be using a Cobra 2speed radiator that I picked up cheap. This might be overkill but it'll look terrific andI should have NO worries about cooling. Nothing worse than having a marginal cooling system creep up on you while stuck in some unforseen traffic!

Actually, if you've ever met anyone driving an SVT Contour you've met someone with an Extrude intake. Several Porsche have had this done as a production process I believe, and there may be other OEM cars out there that I'm unaware of. Someone stated above the racecar on a track theory of air moving in an intake passage. Now, imagine that's abrasive goo! Anything in it's "way" gets abraded - to the point that they must put "shields" on things like valve stem seats where the valve enters the port! This is good, it really does abrade more in the restrictive areas than in the less restrictive areas. It's not so much the amount of metal that Extrude removes that's so good, it's where it removes it. What is also often missed is it's ability to even out flow - the Ford intake is way uneven but after Extrude it's pretty close Honestly, this is the best way to port IMO and if I were to do it again I'd have it done on an intake that had already been hand ported. I've not checked into the cost of having it done lately but $200 isn't too bad for an intake IMO, it's work that can't easily be done by a human that's for sure! Closed chamber contorted EFI intakes have to be cut apart and welded otherwise - ick. I once polished a Ford EFI intake that had been ported this way, when I was done we found out that the weld was porous and leaked like a sieve, never again....

I agree with the others, that's too many ponies for the street and the price stinks of fish. A "built" 383 with forged everything and aluminum heads will run over that $4K mark and keep going! My motor was something like $4500 (fuzzy) and won't make more thna 450HP. That's a good steel crank, forged Eagle rods, forged J&Es, and Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads. Flat tappet cam too, add more if it's a roller. Cubes will bring te ppower up but if this is a 400some odd cube motor making 600+hp that's one effecient motor! Sounds like something you'd pull the pin on and run from "Just dyno time" rings bells too - I've got a friend who wore a motor out on the dyno fiddling with it (lol). Gas mileage would be terrible as the cam has got to be mighty nasty and ineffecient at lower RPM. Don't kid yourself and think it'll be okay because you're not WOT all the time that it will be okay. Hrm, wonder if this is a solid cam? Enjoy the lash adjustments... For a manual trans I'm not sure what would harness that. A T5 wouldn't last a second, a T56 would last a little while, I'm not sure what would work best. Not sure what the T56 limit is and hope to never find out! Do yourself a favor, build a nice mild 300 or 400HP motor with good strong internals. Spend a little more than what this guy wants if you have to but realize that you'll KNOW what's in it. Then, slap a 150 shot of NOS on it. You'll keep your street mannered motor for driving but be able to slap down higher powered cars with the push of a button. I think overall you'll be much happier...

I guess I have to ask - did you bother to contact Mike before you dumped the calipers and used them for cores? Judgig from what you posted previously I'd say not. Mike sold me used calipers too, they appeared to be in fine condition and usable but I chose to upgrade. Despite the PITA to him he accepted them back as a trade, gave me full credit, and now he's customizing another setup to my spces for the rear. You'd be amazed what picking up the phone and talking to someone will do for you. (shrug) Mike buys used parts like that from a recycler and he checks them before he brings them back to his shop, why don't you ask him how many pairs he rejects to get ones he'll accept? He had to goto two yards to get mine for me because the first yard had garbage for him. An alternative would be to goto the yard yourself and pull a few sets I guess... Anyway, I too though this was dead, buried, and that you were setup and working fine. I too was surprised to see this popping up again.

Well, I figured that the oil filter would run into th eexhaust, looking at it a bit last night that might not be true (shrug). It DID make it easy to get rid of the bypass and changing the filer will be a breeze now I went with a single filter as duals just seems to beg pressure drop IMO. I've considred one of those sandwich coolers that use water so if anyone has details an part numbers for that I'd be VERY interested in seeing a writeup. I think the new 'Vette's and whatnot have them and the RX7 can have as many as TWO coolers formthe factory...

Just FYI - Summit and Jegs are currently backordered on those radiators. MikeSCCA turned me onto these guys -> www.performancebodies.com but by that time I'd already ordered an AFCO from http://www.randys-racemart.com which was slightly cheaper than any of the others I've seen. Mike said he likes he look of the units his link has, I'l let everyone know how the AFCO unit works out. If the AFCO is out of stock I'll be using Mike's link ASAP as the square tanks look nice to me. Heh, yeah I'm to the point of needing a radiator!

Extrude is what you'd want to do otherwise just do light porting to clean up. Extrude isn't that rude if it's something they already have a fixture for. I think the reason the cost can be high is the setup time and the low volume for us car guys. When it's an OEM like PorscheSVT or say an aircraft company that wants a couple hundred turbines done it's "cheaper". I've seen the process done, actually played with the gritty goo - it's wild! It was done to an intake manifold I owned, was about $200 but the inside was nearly mirror smooth and CFM not only went up but also balanced out. Depending upon th eapp the cost is worth it, obviously we're not trying to maintain a stock appearance in this case though are we? I too will be switching to EFI, probably using my existing RPM intake. I will have bungs welded into it, maybe knock down some rough areas withan air die, and then not worry about it. The HP you'll pick up in this case is PROBABLY minimal and IMHO not worth the cost.

I THINK the early cars had glass and that they went to metal later. I've got a couple pair of them around though as my last car needed them badly. I've got a pair of new metal ons, a fiberglass liteweight replacemrnt, and at least one of the OEM style glass or plastic ones in so so shape. You can find buckets on E-bay pretty easy

Heh, now if there was jus tsomeone around who could documen this with pics and maybe someone who was helping to sell "kits" Guess I'll break my U's first! Would we be able to use Scottie's adapters with this? I'm thinking maybe...?

Umm if I'm visualizing this right... Do the bolt holes in the adapter jump around in relation to the center of the axle too or is it just potentially a bit of a high spot on the adapter?

Umm, the 8.8 cantake MUCH more than 350HP. Most of the Mustang guys I know who ar epushing say 600HP are still running 8.8s. They run C-clip eliminators, stronger axles, and the posi is different but the ringpinion isn't an issue that I know of. The T-bird I've seen, I don't think it's too far off from the Cobra. Bear in mind it was designed to mount to the SAME points as the FOX Mustang - same with the Cobra. That's two upper points that meet about where the pinion is on our cars and two lower arms that go straight forward for the solid axle cars. IF you guys want I canget pics of the Cobra setup and ask the shop I deal with to call me if an SC T-bird rolls in for work. The Cobra setup looks nice but is a PITA to change gears in and yes they're snapping them but upgraded axles are supposed ot be on the way... I'm not sure where this leaves Scottie. If you goto a solid axle I'm betting the launch will change completely and you'll have wheelstand issues. Can you say wheelie bars? My chasis shop indicated they could do a 'Vette rear easily enough but looking into it and the changes made narrowing it) I'm not sure this is a way to go as it supposedly changes geometry when you do that (according to a street rod mag). If you go with a different IRS but keep the struts you're going to snap stub axles. The R230 stuff sounds good but again, stub axlesstruts? I dunno Scottie, this is a tough one. You haven't wreaked too much carnage yet I don't think but until you come up with an alternative I'd certainly coinsider some loops back there to protect the gas tank (ulp).

The way I've done my belts is to screw i nmounts to th stock lap belts. These are big hooks really that the belt clips onto. For the shoulder's I've got belts that loop around the bar - no hooks or hardware that attach directly to the bar. I HAVE been told to avoid the Y belts as they can apparently have problems but I don't recall the exact issue with them. My belts are all individual but I've yet to mount the submarine belt. I went with Simpson through a local dealer - you MAY have trouble finding them in stock, I did (sigh). Can give you part numbers etc. if you want, turns out a local shop actually had what I wanted in stock - I was in shock!

I finally got aorund to putting a handle on my T56. Went through the gears, feels good. Reverse is a bear though - ick. Then I noticed something, in gear the stick move like half an inch foreaft and about a 1/4 inch side to side! It's th eshifter I'm sure - phooey! I had hoped to skip the expense of an aftermarket shifter but it looks like I'm destined for one. $160+ down the drain it looks like. Will have to see if my friend's shop can work a deal for me. I had heard the stock shifter weren't too hot, I should've checked this sooner...

Hrm, I think I better check where my bar is then - I think it's slightly below my shoulders. Doh!

I've had one, killed it too! Took a few years and so really low charges to do that though and I'd buy one again. My one hesitation this time is the weight involved - my old one was a BEAST! I want something light this time and have been looking at a few options. Just not yet sure what I want to run...