BLKMGK

ROFL! That's GREAT! Looking good man, is that a TPIS MiniRam? I'm looking hard at those for next Winter's EWFI project - if that's what it is please let us know how it works out.

Hrm, 6FEET each side?! Umm, shouldn't hose runs for things like oil lines be kept short? I owuld think there would be a pressure drop involved over a long run an dsince ALL oil has to go through that line I think I'd be nervous. I may have to move mine but for now it's all mounted. Need to see if the alternator will interfere (grr). Will snap some pics of today's work as soon as I get a chance - it's moving right along at last!

I'll have to hunt for the dimmer comment, I must have been half asleep that night ! Got ALL of the center gauges done today - just have to power the fuel gauge and wire it to the sender, I've already started that Found the wingnuts, ouch! One was really tight and otugh to get at. Both of those gauges have been removed now! However, which color wirebulb goes to high beam and brake? They popped out before I could see and I need to know in order to wire those up (sigh). Bue bulb condoms? A Sharpie blue marker is what I used to color the bulbs. As of yet I do NOT know how it'll look but I honestly expect it'll be okay and not hard to change if I don't like it Speedo and Tach need to be ordered - that will be early this week I hope, not quite sure how I'll mount those but foam tape might be called upon this time...

From what Scottie has said in the past GN motors FLY off the boards he linked for you. If you decided not to keep the motor I'd expect you'd sell it pretty quick off one of those boards. Why not try reading up on them some and seeing how fast they get sold? In a way I almost wish I'd gone that route

Center panel huh? I'm looking at that puppy too. I just pulled mine today - what a PITA! My thoughts are to maybe take a stock one an duse just the outside edge as a frame. Maybe a stainless middle panel and switch over the heatA/C to something aftermarket. Want to keep the top vent and light as well as leave room for a radio. I'm sort of kicking ideas around right now - I've got two UGLY ones and one halfway decent one that's not been chopped up. Please do share any ideas you come up with! It'll be awhile before I have A/C put in and I've got the parts for an aftermarket Nissan setup but the Vintage Air stuff just looks so much more effecient (sigh). Talked to someone who rode in a car with one of those today - he said it blew ice cubes. Must be nice!

Some company has created a tool for figuring out backspacing an dit's got write ups in Car Craft and I think Super Chevy this month. It bolts to the wheel flange and you use a tire (I think) to help you figure out what backspacing you need. It has a couple of pointers etc. and you can move the wheel in and out of the wheelwell until you've got it perfect without interferance. Only trouble is they want $500 bux for it! I'm wondering if anyone that has seen this has ideas for making one cheaper? Of it perhaps someplace like Tirerack might rent them? Seems like the perfect way to ensure you get the right wheels and can fit a particular tire. Unfortunatly I'll probably have to buy before such a thing is available to me...

Is that the master you've got in stock? Pricing? Larger master moves more fluid - yes? So will my brakes be soggy without an upgrade? TIA!

2 things - I've yet to run a V8 Z so I'm not sure who Kevin was talking about concerning torque converters. 2nd - Sneaky Pete systems are cool but in order to run them you're supposed to jet up the carb -it's a NOS only system and not good for much HP. I'd be worried about going lean! There's a company, Nitrous Express I think, that a friend deals with. They sella system known as "bottle in a bag" and that's exactly what it is. Gym bag with a bottle in it! Cheap cheap and sneaky but for EFI and is NOS only that I thnk is supposed to be sprayed in front of a MAF meter. (shrug) Lot's of ways to disguise NOS and long line runs will soften the hit which could also be a good thing when you hide the solenoids. Reading the specs up above closer - I'm thinking he's not going to be needing NOS. Give us some specs on the Mustang please, if it's a GT this ought to be a race to die for, you'll squash him flat unless he's had massive work done. I pity the fool......

I've been wondering about the header wrap myself. Not on the headers mind you but on parts of the exhaust like you're talking about near the floorboards. We've already discussed and agreed that header wrap trashes headers. Keeps in too much heat, retains moisture and oil yadda yadda. However where you're having problems there shouldn't be so much heat that it will trash the meatl - I think. What you WILL have to worry about is water and oil. I would be sure to spray the wrap with the coatings made for this purpose to keep water and oil out. Oil soaked wrap burns like mad once it catches, not cool (nyuk nyuk). Water would not only make the wrap "rot" but also hold the moisture against the header. I suspect that the wrap WILL make the exhaust "age" faster but if taken care of and coated it will keep your feet cooler and lost longer than it would uncoated. Heh, you'll note that Scottie's car has a good bit of wrap on the downpipe. Scottie, how long does that pipe last wrapped? You didn't coat it too did you? I didn't notice any on it... Oh, and who makes good wrap that doesn't cost a mint? Are they all pretty much the same? What about maybe some stick on reflective coating on the floor under the car? Last but not least - one thing I learned with my turbo car - an air gap is better than ANY wrap or coating. If you can increase the gap between what you're trying to protect do it. Those neato' spark plug boots that are made from ceramic? Yeah, they don't burn but the wire inside cooks if it touches a header or turbo manifold! A 1/4 inch air gap can prevent that...

Hey, I never thought to simply drill the guts out of the stock gauges - duh! That really does bolt right in then huh? I need to write mine as well as you did, slightly different approaches but it seems like EVERYONE asks how to do it. A Tech Article on it here would be helpful IMO. The resuly looks darned nice that's for sure! BTW Pete, you said the GROUND is what regulated by the dimmer switch, yes? I'm about to start soldering and wanted to be sure. I've considered a few options for the bulbs - I'm thinking cut or splice on of the stock bulb wires and put ALL of the Autometer grounds through that and then using a single hot wire to the fuse box. That sound workable? Just want to be sure it's GROUND that's got the knob on it and I've not been able to find my silly multimeter. Ya' know though - the more I think about that the more crazy it sounds - how can ground be what's dimmed? There's only one wire to each bulb in there which means that it must've been picking up it's ground from the strap I'm modifying - yes? Better dig up the multimeter I guess, no battery in the car makes this a PITA! Update: Okay, I looked closely at the stock bulbholders. It's grounding on the gauge housing as I thought and getting what has to be HOT from the harness. I could swear an earlier post way back said that the rheostat for dimming the bulbs dimmed ground, that can't be IMO. Also, the stock bulbholders very nearly fit the Autometer housings. I almost tried this but considering how dim the stock gauges were (3watt bulbs) I snipped the harness instead and am going to use the Autometer bulbs - colored blue to begin with Not sure if it'll look good or not, I'll let everyone know when I've seen it and might test off the car to see. Now then - how do you yank the Speedo and Tach? That job is fast approaching I'm afraid. Cha ching$$! [ May 05, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Yeah baby! I've just figured out how to make a bolt-in mount for the Autometer 2 5/8ths gauges in the triple pod of the 240s!!!! I've taken pics of what I did and while I've only converted one gauge so far I've tried it in all three holes. Fabrication was ZERO! No gluing, no added "stuff", just a tiny bit of drilling and some bending with a vice! It's not up on my site yet but I'll do it ASAP today when I'm doone typing here. I'd like to make this a Tech article on this site too as my bandwidth is low and would like for this knowledge to be as widespread as possible. Oh, and this is NOT a radical idea and it wouldn't surprise me at ALL if someone else figured it out first. However I documented it and am darned happy to have found it to be this easy - I was really worried there for awhile. P.S. I might be requesting one tiny part if anyone has a spare. I think since I had two sets of gauges I've got one but so far no luck finding it (sigh). http://216.254.117.47 is my home page, look in the Photo Gallery. I may move it later though to it's own page of How-To's.

Oh man, VERY nice engine! But I'm having troouble seeing it's fine detail, I'm more sort of a braille kind of guy Wish my intake looked that good, the piping to it is polished (I've got that Greddy elbow) but it looks silly with a cast intake. Having polished Ford uppers I know what a bear it is to get it that clean. NOt fun....

Here ya' go! Only three pics, shoulda' taken many more but the camera has very limited space (sigh). http://216.254.117.47/others.nsf/bf1cfce3711ab30d852569f90083bfc3/4c36a53d3289a83185256a4300053f1a?OpenDocument

All of the Ford SVO injectors are the same. Even the 4cyl cars used the same injectors - nice huh?

Is that booster from a 2+2? If so it'll interfere with the clutch master... I too have much the same questions. I've got a stock 240 masterbooster righ tnow. My present thought is to bolt it all together and see how it works seriously, when I did a BIG upgrade on my Mustang i was told all sorts of stuff and even given a BIG booster for it that would've required bashing things to fit. Rather than doing any of th esuggestions I bolted it on with the stock setup and took it for a cautious spin - it worked out great! It can't hurt to try that for this too so long as you're careful and not in a big hurry... MikeSCCA - what can ya' tell us? I know you've go tsome "new" 280 masters in stock, are they really needed? What sorts of mods does that require? Bolts are different, yes? What booster, other than the 2+2 can we use and is it worth it?

Hrm, is this a Cobra you're going up against? Heavily modifed? It will need ot be in order to beat a Z packing close to 800lbs less weight an running 400+ HP! Don't ge tme wrong, with the righ tmods that Cobra will scream but... My friend's shop has turned out some seriously fast cobras and even a couple of really nice GTs but without a full exhaust, gears in the 4 range he's not going to stand a chance. For that matter - he may need NOS or a blower. Blowers on a well built Cobra (they bend rods if boosted too high) will make over 600HP but I'm betting this guy is running a GT that's pretty stock. If so I'll bet it's first car short of a Honda and he thinks it's God's gift - he'll be in for a serious surprise! For fun, slap a bottle on yours just in case - can you say sick power? Just remember guys, not all Mustangs are slow and h emodified ones are flat out nasty but you don't find them that often and when you do they spent tons more than we did! Around here they tend to be a little thicker since we've got a shop or two wrenching on them full time but... I'm looking forwad to seeing how they fare against my Z when it's done too

Yeah, a popoff valve may relieve the engine from boost but it will send turbo speeds into the ozone! Most wastegates work by bypassing exhaust energy before it hits the turbo - a popoff valve will simply vent boost and do nothing to slow the turbo down - yikes!

Ah, very nice pics of the NOS! While it'll be awhile before I hook up a bottle (I think) some of those pics gave me some very good shots for things like throttle linkage - he's using the same Lokar cable I am - sweet! Very nice engine and darned clean too - I wish mine would come out that well. Some good ideas for running fuel lines as well, thanks for sharing.

Just remember it sticks to rusty parts best, if the part is clean bare metal I don't think it sticks as well. It also moisture cures so be sure and keep it closed up airtight when not using it or it'll harden into a solid block

Pics pleeeease!

Trick? Sure, whip out a propane torch and heat the bolts up till they sizzle just a bit. LockTite is often used on driveshaft bolts (I use it!) and the heat will make the stuff let go pretty easy. Sure enough, when I heated mine I smelled LockTite and the bolts came off pretty easy...

Not sure if it was for an Automatic or not. I simply went to one of the Junkyard search engines - Junkyard Dog? - input my desires and E-mail address, and waited for the responses. $35 didn't include shipping but a $50 offer did.... I think I'm going to try out the Cobra fan I've got here now first though - after I find a shop that actually HAS a damned Griffin raditaor in stock! Jegs and Summit are backordered but I'm told a local (?!) roundy round shop keeps them in stock - woohoo! We'll see...

The parts I bought were pretty straightforward. I bought the Moroso billet adapter for th eblock - this is for dry sump and remote filter setups. It's a quality piece and seals with O-rings. It has 2 1/2NPT holes tapped in it. Jegs 710-23700 I bought the Perma Cool filter mount - for a Ford filter BTW. Jegs 771-1791. DEBURR this part before using it!!! I found some nasty metal flash in the part when I looked at it closely... This has 4 1/2NPT holes tapped in it and mounts so that the fittings exit horizontally. I purchased 4 Russel 1/2NPT to -8 fittings Jegs 799-6049. I purchased 2 Aeroquip 90 degree -8 fittings Jegs 023-FCM1533 and 2 Aeroquip straight -8 fittings Jegs 023-FCM1513. Lastly, 10 feet of blue socketless hose Jegs 023-FCV1010. Whew, good thing I was bored to look that all up ! I've not YET mounted the remote filter and am not yet sure where to place it. 10feet of hose should be plenty I think..

Yes, the filtering etc. is different - an din this case that may very well be wahts' wrong. Heck, ignition energy could be leaking into the sensor lead and causing false readings. It could also be some sort of weird valvetrain bit - who knows? I'll be real interested to see where this winds up and how it gets fixed... P.S. Scottie, I've got th epics that I took of your car in Florida out of the camera on disk - you want I should put them up? [ May 02, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

In the crankcase there's often a mist of oil. As the crank spins it has to cut through that crap like a car driving in a hail storm, this is why some oil pans have screens and windage trays. Anyway, the knife edge helps cut through the goo at high RPMs. Yeah, it should make more power, the higher the RPM the higher the HP gain I'd exect. However, while it may be "more" HP I don't know how much more and it probably varies from one engine family to another. It might be as little as 5hp - probably not worth it in that case I doubt it would be as much as 20 though. Anyone ever seen a back to back comparison anywhere?