BLKMGK

New coils? If you're just looking for regular springs lemme' know. I've got a set pulled out of my car I'd let go fairly cheap. Car sat pretty low though so be sure and check out the pics on my WEB site before getting too excited. I'm going coil-over on my car... http://216.254.117.47

Actually I've seen wrap work pretty well. It reduces engine bay heat a great deal and you can almost touch the header it insulates so well. Done correctly I think it's ability to hold heat is nearly as good if not better than using ceramics. However - the heat that gets trapped by wrap embrittles the header material over time and rust IS an issue. Ceramics are usually done inside and out of a header and this helps prevent the heat fro embrittling the metal. Ceramics can also "heal" from scratches depending upon what's used and this can cut down on rust. Right now I'm waffling between using cheapo' headers and wrap or trying to find some decent sized headers from some place like Sanderson and doing it right the first time. Cheap (block hugger) headers are all of about $100 or so, the Sandersons are quite a bit more so this is a tough decision....

Yah, 153 teeth and it takes the same style clutch as the later model cars. It's one funky looking flywheel too. Wish they made a lighter one (shrug).

Why not just Tee the fitting on the block that you're using for the fuel pump switch?

John - that's probbaly 25-30lbs EACH for the heads. Aluminum heads weigh in pretty light compared to iron and on the Fords they're supposed to save at least 75lbs or so.

I'd take a look at what JTR found to work. Not all of the starters out there are made alike and while some form of mini-starter might work I'm not sure they've quite got OEM quality working for them. I'm going to use a starter meant for the Impalla SSCaprice for mine. JTR lists the weights but I've not got it handy - figure a mini might save say 2-3lbs max. (shrug) Heh, starter is one of my next purchases

We've talked about this some before - due to the fluid dynamics involved a single 3inch pipe flows as well if not slightly better than a pair of 2.5's. There are plenty of mufflers out there that should work without sacrificing too much power and the system Davy described does sound pretty good. Headers are where you may actually lose some HP but honestly I'm willing to sacrifice a little power here and there to wind up with a car that's comfortable both to drive and to service. While I think about it - there are several companies that make OVAL pipe. If ground clearance is a concern look around at some of the circle track types of catalogs or in the back of some of the Chevy mags to find these puppies. I THINK Spintech may be one of the folks advertising this stuff. Worth a look anyway...

Actually, if you encode it as a VCD it can be played on most DVD players I've got a couple of these - they play fine (shrug). If the files aren't HUGE I might be willing to host them on my server for awhile...

That would work too - but WHAT size? Stainless isn't reaslly all that expensive either when you're buying onesy twosey pieces (shrug). You just have to be sure an duse anti-sieze if it's going into aluminum!

One wire should be ground, one wire should be hotlow, and th elast wire should be hothigh. Not sure which will be which will be which but some time with an Ohmeter mgith help. Worse comes to worse hook it up to a battery and see

Crossflow head, aluminum block, aluminum head (weighs 470 or so lbs), PM rods, 4valves, DOHC with VVT on the exhaust, cast "header", and the ECU is mounted ON the engine! HP is supposed to be a bit under 300 but racing versions have produced nearly 500! This puppy sounds NICE and might be a darned good swap once a few end up in wrecking yards.

I meant to post this the other day - ran across it while looking for motor mounts in urethane (can't find 'em) http://members.aol.com/danmas/examples.htm

Umm... have you seen the Hurst shifters lately? The Pro 5.0 IS a better shifter - hands down. I had one of the older Hurst shifters too - much better than the stock one. But when I went to a Tremec I was told that Hurst had gone downhill and shown a Pro shifter - the quality is obvious. Steeda also makes a nice shifer but for my T56 I believe I'll be grabbing a Pro shifter (shrug). To each his own but Hurst hasn't kept up - they were however the first to realize there were BIG problems with the stock shifter

WOW! Suddenly everyone wants my brakes Okay, the 5lugs MAY be spoken for - I'll know in a couple of days one way or the other. The 4lug brakes are still sitting aorund. I thought I had them sold but no word lately so I think the deal is dead. The 4lug bolts on right onto the stock (solid) rotor so it's the least fuss. It's not the top of the line upgrade, that uses a vented rotor, but it works much better than full on stock IMO as the pad size is MUCH bigger. Calipers, pads, rotors, and I think I'll send the hubs along too as I'm going 5lug. Mike/SCCA and others have detailed WEB pages on what goes into the next step up in braking - vented rotors... Prices for all of this and other parts are over in the sales forum - don't want to pitch here. I think the price on the 4lug was $150 +shipping - check over there for the details.

I guess what it comes down to, again, is what makes this car special? If you liek the look and the price is right - go for it. If the sunroof leaks later deal with it then or have a roof put on. It's not like the car has a show quality paint job to ruin This is suppopsed to be a fun car for you to jump Hondas in so even if it's got some rust are you going to care if it's not structural? I think maybe we're overanalyzing this from the standpoint that we all want perfect cars. For some of us good enuff is just that! Heh, I'll never forget the one Z I saw street racing down on V. It had a fuel cell strapped in the hatch (plastic tank) and a SHOELACE run from the throttle on the carb to the little turnbuckle on the firewall! He had to hop out staging it one time to retie it (lol). It ran damned hard though - didn't even have a hood on it that night....

Cool, thanks! I think I've even seen that site in the past - I remember the damned annoying music! Now, I just need to figure out the bolt size I need. Anyone?

It doesn't look tooo bad - especially for what you want it for. I agree on th O/D trans but for street playing around and drives to work that don't require too much highway a TH350 like you've got would work. Hell, I drove my old Vega with a 4.56 9inch to work once and it's tires were about as tall as the Zs. No tach in the car thank goodness but I'm sure it was screaming. I ran into someone later on who claimed I blew past them at 80mph! Speedo didn't work either Engine lived through it but then I didn't much care either! It does sound like he's getting everything he wants from the car but overall the car is okay so long as there's no rust to speak of. The exhaust is a bit inadequate I'd say unless that's 3inch pipe so spend some cash there eventaully. How cheap would you be getting it for?

Doh, sorry about that. You've got a Master, yes? That's what bolts to the firewall - have you examined the firewall to see if the bolt patterns match? What's the length and throw of the rod? The Tilton unit is a bolt-in for the firewall. The only clutter you'd reduce would be the slave on the side of the trans but unless you cut you'll still have the area it mounted in. Hydraulic TOs actually replace the stock TO and have 2 lines running out of the bellhousing - one for pressure, one for bleeding. Again, I'm not sure this is going to gain you much.

Okay, in order of mild to wild here's how I understand the various brake setups: 1) add Toy calipers to stock system - I've got a set of these for sale NOW cheap. Twin piston and much bigger pads really help for little cash. 2) Replace rotor AND calipers. Vented rotors, Toy calipers. Again, twin pistons and bigger pads. Vented rotor will help slow fading and heat soak. 3) Same as above but go 5lug - no difference in braking but you get better wheel selection. I mention this because I'm selling this setup NOW. Don't forget the rear too though, you'd want 5lug there too. 4) SCCA's OutLaw 12.2 inch brakes. Can you say throw out an anchor? www.fonebooth.com His stuff is on Mikelly's car, will be on mine, and he's working on a rear setup for me now too. Vented rotors, featherweight calipers, 4piston up front, what's not to like? Cost runs from cheap at about $150+ shipping on #1 to over $800 on that last one I think - check his WEB site for pics and details. The Outlaw stuff is LIGHT but possibly overkill. I'm going overkill!

Ray makes a good point. I was going to point out the other crate motors too but I'm not keen on the iron heads. The ZZ4 is pretty much a stock motor with good heads etc. - PM rods and hyper pistons are sourced from production motors. Super Chevy has done a build up on some of those motors with good results. Try to get aluminum heads if you can but if you can't get them later.. P.S. I noticed an ad for a Chevy truck the other day - 340HP and 400+ftlbs I think it was. That's a stock truck motor!

I'm considering a mild system for my car nce it's put together. We'll see, I've not ever fooled with NOS but I know it's good for a real easy HP bump. My bottom end shoudl take the power easily - everything is aftermarket forged stuff and a steel crank too.

The normal T5 held up to my twin turbo 302 for over a year. 450HP and gobs of torque. One day I beat it hard, the next it blew 3rd upshifing in highway trafficrush hour. For a STOCK application they're fine until a kid pounds them. 3rd is vulnerable because it's a longer throw, there are no stops on the shifter, and in a fast upshift the shifter forks can bend. This is supposedly the beginning of the end but I'm sure it's not the only reason they die. It may have something to do with the number of gears on that shaft, bearings, who knows what else. I've seen plenty blown apart at my friend's shop - he tries to keep a couple around in good shape as people always seem to need them He's apparently gotten VERY good at rebuilding them using parts from others when needed and will buy a blown one if given the chance. As for the OEMs somehow knowing this and ignoring it so they can stick it to you for a new trans - uh uh. Ford went so far as to retard timing in the ECU when they could sense a shift was being done in order to kill torque to save the trans. This was in 94-95 Mustangs and the 93 Cobra ECU had whacky code in it too timing-wise. They also went to WC transmissions at some point in ALL of the cars and there were other upgrades along the line as well. Why? Warranty work! If you were a dealer you had a constant stream of tranny rebuilds and replacements coming through that you charged back to HQ - that's not cheap. Sure, when the warranty runs out the consumer is stuck and when they see the cost they're also pissed - at FORD. Neither of those is a win for Ford or GM on the Camaros either. Although I think Ford did more to beef up their T5s than GM FWIW. The transmissions are decent so long as you don't exceed their ratings or beat on them. We don't beat on our cars do we? Unlike the T56s where Borg WarnerTremec apparently learned their lesson and seemed to underate the trans, power figures for the T5s are apparently pretty close if not slightly optimistic. If you want I can ask my friend what's killing 3rd but I'll bet I know what he says - kids pounding shifts! (lol)

I'm looking for a good place to get stainless fasteners. I've used Totally Stainless in the past and they had lot's of car kits but their catalog is no longer online and the paper one costs $3. Why have a WEB site?! I asked for one anyway but if it's not free I doubt I'll be getting one. My intent is to replace fender bolts and other fasteners with polished stainless but I'm looking for unpolished parts - I've got a buffer. The size I'm MOST interested in right now is for the rear cover on the R200. I'm missing a bunch of those bolts and would like to use polished ones, anyone know the size? How about a good online shop for this stuff? Here's one site that looked good but has no online ordering -> http://www.southcoaststainless.com/ And Totally Stainless -> http://totallystainless.net/totally.html

I'll run block huggers of some yet to be determined size into dual 2.5pipes. Pipes will exit back on either side of the fuel cell. I'm considering DynoMax UltraFlows or something ricey if I can find it at a reasonable cost and am convinced it won't blow me out of th ecar. Summit's latest import catalog has some candidates. Funny that Borla "Boomers" only come with 2.25 inlets! I'm skipping Flowmasters I think. Had them on my Mustang and 2chambers were too loud, resonated like mad, and rusted REALLY bad. 3 chambers wouldn't be much better IMO but their deltasomething or other new style might be better. I'd like my car to be mostly quiet even at full chat WOT or look ricey enough that the local punks will make a poor assumption so I can hand them their butts on a platter. We'll see but dual 2.5's or a single 3inch pipe should flow as much as you need.

Might have found an answer to my muffler quest Summit sent me an import catalog (lol). Their section on mufflers has a few with 2.5inch inlets in stainless with the coffee can outlets that I desire, one with upturned dual tips looks interesting. Cost is $200 each (!) but that's much better than the $400+ I'd been seeing (!!). Oh, and I had to laugh - if you got this catalog look at the sections where the stickers are sold. "Powered by stickers" - yup most of them seem to be!