BLKMGK

Hrm, shop in Glen Burnie Maryland used to turn out 1,000HP "streetable" Porshe's. Custom headers, big turbos, and TEC II on all of them. They were on the cover of Turbo Magazine with one of them and had several features done years ago. They also had a really neat 914 - at least I think that's what it was. Little car that sounds like a VW? Was completely redone and weighed about what a go-kart would. Sick fast! However I wouldn't recomend them to anyone - "Turbo Performance Center" had my Mustang for 50 (count them!) 50 weeks doing my twin turbos. This from a bolt-on kit! They had a Nova looking car out front as well that a customer abandoned. It had a 400SBC, 4speed, and a big intercooled turbo on it. They claimed the customer drove it once and was terrified of it. They did some awesome fabrication work though, a shame they weren't more timely (ahem).

I am running Edelbrock RPM heads. The ports on the heads are noticably bigger than the header primaries on the Flowtechs. Otherwise the Flowtechs are a terrific header. However mine were also defective and I had to have a weld done on them where the factory failed to finish welding them The Sanderson 1 3/4 primaries matched the ports perfectly but the flange hit all sorts of stuff on the driver's side. Here's a picture of the "step" from my port to the 1 5/8ths header. The gasket pictured matches my port perfectly! Mighty big lip, no? I'd imagine it's killing a bit of power. I've now gotten my plug wires to behave though and have not burned any more of them. IF these new headers fit my Flowtechs will be up for sale - they're coated too.

Hrm, okay I stuck a tape measure down there and I THINK 9inch headers might work out - the Sandersons were pretty close. Worse comes to worse I'll be packing another set up to send back, at least it sounds like Rewarder will work with us. I've ordered the BH1020 set and should have it this week. 2.5inch collector works for me with 2.5inch downpipes and less worry of hitting steering etc. I'll let everyone know how they work out. Sanderson headers going back today. Fun Fun Wish me luck!

Pete wait and see if they make the Mach 1 before getting excited about the Bullit. Bullit is a SOHC GT engine with a different intake (aluminum instead of plastic), wheels, and a little more power. Interior trim is slightly different too I believe. The Mach 1 - if it gets made - will be a DOHC 4.6 "not a Cobra" with a shaker hood scoop, retro seats, and a solid rear axle. Power will be slightly lower than the Cobra but higher than the GT and Bullit. Bullit is supposedly underrated powerwise BTW but having not seen an actual dyno run I'm witholding judgement. The Bullit is supposed to be prety darned HEAVY too. Heck, I know one Cobra convertible (w/cage) that tipped the scales at nearly 4Klbs! Good thing it's making 650+RWHP Thread content: What would you do for center caps? I'm not sure you'd want the ponies I don't think you'll find them in 4lug since one lug would have to pierce a spoke. Even if you converted to 5lug backspacing might be an issue. Find out the exact size and backspacing and I might be able to tell you if it'll fit.

I used a stock type replacement clutch for the T56 from Summit. I don't recall the brand offhand but it was NOT the high dollar Centerforce stuff. So far it's held up fine, has terrific engagement, ad the price was certainly right

Blacksburg is a bit of a haul from Manassas but should you happen to be around here some Saturday give me a haeads up and I'll shoot you directions to the cruise. We get quite a few cars out there - usually over a hundred in an evening easily. Hrm, how much you letting the Z go for? Nothing wrong with an SX IMO except that it's not turbo from th efactory...

Heh, try this on for size Pete... When I click on my high beams I trigger a relay to light an LED. However when I click OFF my high beams the LED often stays lit?! urning my lights off and then back on turns off the LED. Worse, a couple of times I've noticed that my high beams are on when I've NOT clicked them on! worst of all - I actually spotted my high beams clicking on by themselves the other night! I don't think I had this problem before I did my tinkering to get the the high beam LED wired up. I've not yet tried putting a meter on the relays up front either to see if it's a badsticking relay or if it's actually getting juice from the switch up front. With the other issues I'm working right now this is low on my list but it sure is a PITA! With Hella H4s I'm sure other drivers aren't too happy with me and my adjustment screws are frozen too so I've not been able to lower my beams down. It's always something..... P.S. I picked up another set of Hellas on E-bay for $55. Their Euro spec and have city lights too.

Eh, wouldn't sweat the X in GNx. In the case of a swap candidate the GNX turbo isn't one I'd pick. Just get any 86,87 GN drivetrain and put a couple of tweaks to it and you'd be fine. The ceramic turbo in the GNX isn't one I'd want to run. Heh, 5200RPM is a pretty low redline. Scottie - can it be raised much? Is it worth it? If it's that low then perhaps an auto really is best with some tall gears to force the motor to pull long and hard. Hrm...

Had a achance to talk to a TT owner who was running SCCA on Saturday evening. His car is supposedly making 500HP and is the most "built" 300ZXTT I've EVER seen. He comes out to the local cruise nights somewhat often - where are you located? He would probably be a VERY good person to talk to. He did say he was on his third motor but it sounds like he's been pushing it pretty hard for awhile. Had more gizmos on his dash than you'd believe and said he was going to have to add two more in order to take car of a rich condition he was battling.... I'm sort of wonderig why he's not just gone full on aftermarket EFI Where in VA are you loated?

I think you'll find that most "scoops" sit so low on the hood that they never get above the boundry layer and won't ever provide positive pressure - short of running a snorkel. They WILL work better than sucking air from underneath the hood though. Not sure how it would look on a Z but check out the Mustang II"Cobra" scoops as they can be easily made to face forward and are easy to mount. A "ram air" setup doesn't require cutting a gaping hole in the hood and can be reversed fairly easily. In the end it really doesn't matter how you do it so long as you get cooler air in there. The "ram air" setup won't pressurize the intake either until you're going some gawd awful speed or have used half the front end of your car as an intake duct

I'll toss in my .04 having seen Scottie's car firsthand, buildingowning a V8Z, and loving the GN drivetrain Friends of mine have been into GNsTTAs for years and I've nearly bought a GN more than once. However GNs tend to handle badly, don't have great interiors where longevity is concerned, and nowadays finding a good one is tough. They all seem to have trans issues for some reason too. Love that drivetrain though - talk about power potential! The Z on the other hand swallows an 8 with no problems using parts you can get easily - no real fabrication. The torque is incredible and if geared right it will do fine on the highway, I love a stick! MPG will probably be worse than the GN drivetrain but can be decent if you stick to an OEM type motor with EFI and overdrive. Exhaust drone I'll handle with additional muffling - I don't mind losing a little power to do it Nothing beats feeling a motor go into boost though and the spool of a turbo is magic. Scottie's car makes almost too much power to hook on the street when the turbo spools up. If he keeps his foot out of it he can putter around fine but when he smacks it the rear breaks loose just like a V8 car does. An auto has got to make drag racing easier and traffic too but I like shifting. All in all I don't think you'd lose going either way. $1800 is cheap and getting a V8 with the potential of the GN would be tough (impossible?) at that price. You'll still have to have the trans gone through and the intercoolers you're looking at aren't cheap either, maybe a turbo upgrade? There's more fabrication involved in the GN swap too so there's plusses and minuses to both the GN and V8. Never heard of a stick GN drivetrain having been done yet but I'd bet it wouldn't be bad once rolling. Unfortunatly launching it would be slower than an auto that can be spooled on the line. I don't think you'd lose much boost on shifts but without someone having actually done it it's tough to say for sure. If I had a second Z to do, and I've been tempted I'll admit, I think I'd either make it an injectedblown Ford, a GN turbo 6, or a ZXT motor. It would be a really tough choice! Wish I had a bigger garage....

ARGH!!! Okay, spoke to Crane's tech line. Seems the Accel unit I've got does NOT work with this distributor. In order to use their ignition I must use a different part number and trigger the ignition directly via the magnetic trigger. The Jeg's WEB description is WRONG! So I called Jeg's. That part number, HI-6R, is a "special order" from Jeg's and would take 4 weeks to get (sigh). It costs about $10 more too. The second option is to use an Accel 300+ which is of course compatible with my Accel distributor That unit costs about $27 more to get it w/coil but is in stock shipping today The downside is lack of a 2nd rev limiter and no diag light. However if the Accel WEB site is to be believed it's a more powerful ignition and I already know it's smaller and lighter too. Interesting that the Crane WEB site only compared theirs to the MSD 6AL but the Accel site seems to compare to several others. Anything's got to be better than what I'm currently using though Jeg's was VERY good about this. They are accepting the part back no problem, sending UPS to my home, and waiving handling fees on this order. I gotta' tell you, I've got a short list of things I think Jeg's could do better but overall those folks handle customer service VERY VERY well! I've bought tons of stuff from them and do occasionally use Summit too. More companies should handle things the way they do. I've not yet ever had to return anything to Summit so I can't comment on their return policies but they do have a few things they do better with regards to their invoicing and WEB site. What a relief that Jeg's isn't being argumentative and is actually sending UPS out for me. WOW! P.S. How is PAW with this kind of thing? I've ordered their catalog but it's been a week and nothing has shown up. Bugs me that I must PAY for their catalog but I figure another source doesn't hurt for parts. They will have a VERY hard time getting much business from me away from these other two though. I could wallpaper my home with the number of Jeg's and Summit catalogs I get - especially Jeg's. I now tell them not to include catalogs whenthey send me stuff!

Do the Ram Air. Hood scoops that face backwards (cowl induction) do NOT "force" air into the air cleaner but instead provide a low pressure zone that allows easier breathing. I'll be installing a ram-air setup on mine eventually as I have no doubt the intake air would be cooler with this setup - it gets HOT under there! Mikelly has done this on his car and a search of the archives should provide you with the parts list that he ordered.

I bought the exact model on the Jeg's page I linked. Right now I'm NOT trying to use it as a magnetic triggered unit but am trying to triger it from the module in the cap. I'll call Crane shortly and JEg's if I have to. If I have to remove this sucker I'm going to be irritated to say the least!

Heck, I want to know how you got that sucker installed in the Honda to begin with! Nice price, don't suppose they had two?

At what RPM was the motor turning when you got out of it? If it was at redline then it's a gearing issue...

The "B" has +12 going to the toggle and pushbutton, yes? With toggle and pushbutton turned on do you get 12volts at the B terminal? Does the solenoid thump or make any noise? Case of solenoid grounded? My solenoid looks different but the all ough tto work the same - it's like a giant relay is all...

Argh! bought a Crane HI-6 ignition. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=35286&prmenbr=76 "Works with virtually any ignition" blah blah. Tried hooking it to my Accel distributor -> http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=7016&prmenbr=76 Now, this distributor has a magnetic trigger. It's instructions for an external ignition, Accel specific of course, detail disconnecting the internal stuff and using the trigger standalone. The Crane instructions don't mention anything liek the Accel distributor but state that it won't work with a magnetic trigger (?!). I tried, it doesn't BTW So, I hooked it up like this was a "generic" distributor which pretty much means taking all th ewires off th eold coil and hooking them to the Crane's specified wires. Hard to explain but everything but the tach was hooked up like this - the tach goes to a specific output. Before I did all of this I sort of jury-rigged it to see if it would trigger. I did this so I wouldn't cut a bunch of th eCrane's woires and then not have it work (ahem). It seemd to be fine and I could tell it was triggering and the motor ran for a moment. So, trimmed everything, mounted it, got it all ready to go. Crank motor, signal LED flashes, motor fires! However at idle it's REAL rough and when it quite the engine fires backwards for a second and spits gas up through the carb! Timing I think so I twiddle with it a good bit and nothing gets better. I crack the throttle open fairly wide, it starts, and the throttle is crisp As soon as I let it down to idle it runs rough and dies. WTF?! I've tried advancing, I've tried retarding, timing light showed about 10degrees with the vac advance hooked up. I advanced it some but it refuses to get better. This is truly weird. I'm going to try isolating the trigger wire to make sure it's not interferance and I'm going to call Crane on Monday. The description i the Jeg's catalog makes it sound liek this combo will work but th eCrane instructions are much less clear. They mention a ton of part numbers that I don't even see in the Jeg's catalog Also note - Crane has NO Internet e-mail support. This sux! If I cannot get a straight answer from Crane quickly on Monday I will be calling Jeg's and then sending this puppy back to get an Accel unit that I'm sure will work. The Crane sounds like it's got the features over the 300+ but not if I can't get it to trigger right! Anyway, I'll keep folks posted on this. i know th eMSD Digital 6 is probably a muxh better ignition but the the Crane had what few features I need and the price was right shipped with a strong coil. Argh!

If you've got disk brakes check the caliper bolts in back. I'd also check all of the mounting bolts for the rear suspension. Any vibrations? Check the driveshaft mounting bolts ! Since it only happens at low speed braking I'd be looking hard at brakes and suspension. Maybe a U-joint or lash but then I'd think you'd hear it at roll-on too. Diff mount is good I assume. Weird....

Umm, I'd say that's not true with regards to hyper pistons. They're more brittle and one of the guys around here that's been running Nitrous for years tried them just once - blew the ring lands right off a coupe of them! Got his money back from KB, slapped in a set of forged pistons, and was happy as a clam. Also, the silicone has been known to migrate out of the piston face in blisters in some cases. Turbo Magazine's Ford turbo car had that problem with Wysco hyper pistons. That may have been an anomoly but having seen more than a few broken OEM hypers I'm just saying "no".

Mine runs a 180 thermostat. Temp is around 180 when driving but will rise to about 200 when sitting, then the fan kicks in and drops it to just below 190. As soon as I'm moving the temp drops to 180 and stays there. I've yet to put Watter Wetter in my cooling system but will soon. Lone - (FYI) the colder thermostats in the LT1TPI cars is to get them to run closer to cold start mode. That makes the mixture richer and probably changes the spark curve a bit. Overall I don't think it's a great idea (shrug). It's one of those band aid the computer things that I hate so much

I got a replacement slave - sans hose and MC for about $50 from a local parts place. It's a Wagner part and I used the GM braided hose on it - it's plastic. The only thing about buying it seperate is that you get no hose. IF you can get th ehose and follow my directions I'd suggest NOT using the JTR method. IF you canNOT get the GM hose then by all means use the JTR method but make sure the hole isn't big and consider JBWeld or another epoxy in there when you screw in the fitting to help secure it. The plastic slave will work but I wouldn't mind knowing about an aluminum one too

Hrm, this will be harder to checkout then. Do the lights go out with the ignition turned off? If so somone has tinkered with the harness Otherwise this is going to be a PITA to check. IF it's got power all the time I'd try disconnecting the switch and using an Ohm meter to check continuity. It's possible the switch is simply shorted passing voltage all the time - if you use an Ohm meter on it you can figure that out...

Exhaust to be quieted "soon, pump is HIGH on my list, damned Holley blue noise! spoke to a guy about Electromotive last night, had nothing but good to say and said it was second only to Motec. Don't think he had worked with the new Holley, FelPro, or DFI 7 though Good news though, I'm working on getting a copy of the GEN7 software from a guy who just bought it. Obviously it only works with their hardware but this will allow me to examine their features and software setup. It has a wizard for setting up base fuel like the older DFI - this is way cool. Sounds like Holley doesn't have that though. More on this when I've got the software. I'd like to see a copy of the Holley stuff too, already have WINTEC Anyone got FelPro?

MSA sells 'glass thing bumpers like the older 240s. Decent price, look great, don't povide much protection I'm afraid..