Datsun#1

Doesnt matter what you do to the engine.if the head flow is stock,your wasting time and money.ive seen guys build vary expensive stroker setups and come back with 165whp...ive seen some do similar setups but have a extremely worked over cylinder head put down 260++ whp on 93 pump gas.the power with these cars is all in the head.porting an old maxima n47.then ill get it flowed.I like this head because it is a great street/budget race head.one day ill get me a p90:)

Agreed,this head already had the valves unshrouded.combustion chambers were polished too.I learned this after removing all the carbon.the intake runners still have the nasty casting marks and rough edges behind the valve seat.(not sure why PO didnt address this) valves are still stock with a polish.im going to spend some time smoothing out the runners and removing the valve guide humps.then get to work on them bowls.

Well,im going to be doing a DIY port/polishing job on the maxima head.I will keep everyone updated on my progress.nothing crazy,just port matching the intake manifold,smoothing out the castings,removing the hump around the valve guides and blending into the bowels.A basic stage I port job.I have done this on v8s and one sr20de.this will be my first L series head.I have researched day and night on this.I will not be removing the liners as this will be on a street car... When im done,ill have a shop install new guides and bigger 280z valves as well as a fresh 5 angle cut on the seats.

How do I post a picture?

Had a 5 angle valve job done recently by a friend of mine.everything but the guides are new

Found a good shop.$10 to replace one.$120 for all 12

Me too,if someone has a few

How much do you think it would cost to replace ONE intake valve guide? Ill assemble the rest my self.just need the one guide replaced.

Agreed.ill just check with my local machine shop

If it is even possible to do your self,how do you change a valve guide? What are the steps,I have searched with no return.thanks!

Exactly! And the engine did run.just horribly.when I say no power,I mean NO power.lol got it running damn good now.a little more work and possibly a dyno run to get everything right.

Had one bent valve.replaced it.re timed cam.all is good! car runs much better.retimed everything.distributer at the crank,timing chain,camshaft and ignition.runs smooth.

Had one bent valve.replaced it.re timed cam.all is good! car runs much better.retimed everything.distributer at the crank,timing chain,camshaft and ignition.runs smooth.

Dual su carbs.cleaned and tuned

Ignition timing is set,19initial and 36full

Well,I know the number 3 hole is full advance.but what would it be if the cam Is in the number 3 hole but the chain link is in the #1 position? Shouldn't the link be on the #3 mark aswell? IF the idea was to have the cam in the #3 hole for full advance or make up of chain strech? The reason im confused is why would you install the chain in the #1 position but have the dowl in the #3?

And @Timz, The other thread I commented in was about my other z.not this current engine.I have 2 zeds my friend

The timing chain is new.he replaced it before the purchase.I just dont think he knew what he was doing

The guy installed the cam wayyyyy retarded and the dang thing has no power below 5k.the cam isnt vary radical.he says its 274dur/480lift. This cam should be pulling way before 5k.so I pulled the valve cover,blocked the chain,then looked at the notch,the shinny link was on the #1 mark.pulled the cam sprocket (all at TDC) and the cam dowl was in position 3.WRONG...so I was going to put the dowl in position 1 and hope that would fix the problem. I turned the cam slowly and it stops either direction.so im gonna pull the head tonight and see if I bent a valve.if not,im going to turn the cam with the head off to position the dowl in the 12 o clock position.then re install the head after a clay test of course.

My biggest problem was buying an engine from someone with hardly any l6 experience

Engine ran.ill pull the head and check the valves this weekend.then ill reply back.thanks guys.I do understand cam timing as I have built 3 l6 engines.I just never had the issue of the cam not rotating.ill do some investigating

I have a brand new set of factory Nissan turbo pistons with rings.they were installed and never ran.didnt even put a head on the block.decided to go stroker.ill send you pics if you are interested $200+ shipping. 863-271-3786 text. Randall

I think the springs are why the cam wont turn all the way around

The cam will not rotate freely.it will move about 10 degrees both ways.I need to put the cam dowl in the #1 hole...the guy originally had the shinny link on the #1 mark with the cam dowl in the #3 hole.the chain is basically brand new.no strech so id like to correct the issue

Hey,I got a used l28 and I was going to re set the cam timing because the PO had it all mucked up. The cam dow was in the 5 o'clock position at TDC. Not good! He didnt know what he was doing.my issue now is I cant turn the camshaft enough to get the dowl in the 12 o clock position..is there any way I can rotate the camshaft safly without removing the valve springs??? Could I just lossen the lash a lot? Thanks!