thrustnut

Ditto. Went to the JY this weekend with my father in-law and picked up a set of S12+8 callipers in perfect condition with good pads for 30.00

I would think this may hurt us in a round about way. Less junk yard parts! Man, what a waste of cars. I understand if your car is falling apart and you can't sell it for what the government will give you, and I understand the "green" point, I just think it would be better to recycle the cars in a junk yard instead of blowing them up and crushing them. (I hope this is far enough away from political)

There is switched +12V at that same plug if you look at a wiring diagram. That's the power I used. If you do it that way you shoulden't need a relay at all. I just did it because I don't like leaving things jumpered, just seems like it would be the weak link in the system which would be bad in the fuel department. If that Carter pump is the same one I have, the interior won't make it much quieter. I have a full interior and can hear it kick on before I start up. Kinda nice though, at least I know its working! Sounds like you got a good build going, keep it up!

Why not just fix it right?

As much as I LOVE my Z car, unless that Z is a super mod, it says your about to go a lap down.

Crank looks a little advanced also...at TDC on mine the key is to the left of the 1200 position, yours looks opposite. Might want to check that also, just pull your rocker arms first. Any one have a good way to verify crank TDC without putting the cover and pulley on? Other then watching the piston stroke, which can be a little inaccurate. For your numbering thing, if you use #1 hole, you LINE UP with #1 on the outside of the gear.

There was a relay in the system. There is a plug on the drivers side underneath by the steering column where one of the FI harness plugs was attached. When I did the carb swap on my '77 I Jumpered switched power to the power circuit to the pump at that plug for a while before I made my own circuit. I am running an independent relay for my pump now on a circuit I made, much easer then tracking down the stock wiring which I think you got rid of in the first place. Wild Bill was right...what pump do you have? If it's the FI pump I wouldn't start your car again till you swap it for a carbureted pump. Carter makes a pretty cheep electric with an in-line filter attached.

At that altitude you will loose power no matter what, but I would still try to stay around 8.5-1 just to be on the safe side and promote engine life for someone like yourself on there first build. I don't think you will have a problem with starting or idle, your biggest problem would be turbo lag until your engine becomes efficient. There are lots of stock cars out there with that CR they just don't have much power at altitude. Have you ever herd of turbo normalizing? Lots of aircraft use it not to produce more power, but to make sure that they can maintain rated HP up to say 25000 ft. That is something you will have to overcome anyway at 5000 ft, you will be normalizing for a while before you actually start making boost, that's why 1/4 mile ET's are slower where you are. I would keep it safe and pretty stock engine wise until you get a handle on things, then start bringing in the boost, intercoolers, cryo, CR...whatever. There's a video on youtube of a guy on his first drive in a SC Grand Prix GTP engine with LOTS of mods, but no tuning time. The first time he gets into it (on his way to the dyno) he blows it up....would suck to happen to you.

My Brother lives in Big Bear, Ca. and they have started enforcing a similar law. He has a 67 mustang he has to hide behind his house (no garage) because it is inop and the tags are expired. The car is primer gray, but otherwise has perfect interior and body. If I where you I would keep your DD and the 260 and get rid of the rest. Z31 are still easy enough to find. Besides, with all the cash from the other three, maybe your 260 can get legal.

I am 29 now, but bought it when I was 16. My Dad owned a Mercedes shop in So. Cal. and it was one of his customers second cars. He brought it in for an oil change and some other light maintenance and my Dad had me take it around the block when it was done. I pretty much fell in love with it then, it was fast, good handling, clean interior, nice lines, the whole package. I asked my Dad about it and Chuck (the PO) said he would let it go for 1000.00, of which I had 500, and borrowed 500 from my Mom (for a week). You know what's funny, all the years, new interior and every time I sit in it it smells EXACTLY the same as it did the first time. Maybe its weird that I notice that.

Have you looked into stock 280ZX N/A flat tops? They are not forged, but for what your planing on running I would think they should be fine. If I where you I would spend more on the top end, thats where you will get the performance. The stock components on the bottom should be fine if your not planing on a full race engine. I was planing a turbo build, but decided to go carbureted due to lack of funds. I have the stock 77 block with 82 N/A flat tops and a P90 head (was to be used for turbo). I am running an Arizona Z 4 BBL intake and Edelbrock carb. My last mod was an MSA .460 270/280 cam, just waiting on installing the timing chain to start it up. I was worried about the CR being to low with the P90 and am still entertaining installing an N42 in the future, but I think even for my N/A engine with the 6500 RPM cam, maby flow is better then CR. I think my CR should still be around 9.1-1, so not a slouch by any means. Have you considered cryo-kits to help you up boost?

Much better man, none of us here are trying to be mean, you just need to know what YOUR intentions are before you start your build, that makes it less abstract to help. I agree with the others, don't worry about the bottom end, no need to punch it out, forged pistons are a plus but with wanting 10 psi, I don't think the cost is gonna be worth it. As far as the head, there is so much stuff here about different combos its sick. I think an N42 or N47 (maby E88?) will get you up in the mid tens CR wise with flat tops where a P90 will put you low nines. From the reading I have done the P90 is the best flowing stock head which is why they used it on the turbo engines. If you want your RPM's up in the 8,000 range, I think flow would be a bigger consideration then CR (which you will be creating with a turbo anyway). Just make sure you have the turbo (and cam) to support what you want. It would suck to build it only to find out you start dropping boost at six, or your cam looses efficiency at 65000. It all has to match! I have a buddy building a MSS system for a turbo'd VW Bug, I think he spent 250.00 for the complete system. It looks like a bear (maby a little more time consuming then the search function) but do-able if you have a little electronics know how. Good luck, and save your money... do it right the first time!

I work at the local airport here in Bend, Or. and like Rolling said, you can fit at least five cars in a "T" hanger. No one cares what you do in there, people build experimental airplanes in some of ours, so no problem. I cant speak to the price, but I think it should be fair. As far as the house thing, I would think that buying is the best option right now, I think its still a buyers market and I'm pretty sure prices will rebound in the not to distant future creating a little equity (IMO). I got lucky and sold my first house in Georgia right before the economy tanked and bought the one I'm in now about two months ago. It was a bank owned built in 2006 and I got it for almost 60,000 less then it sold for in 2006. Other then paint and some stain on the fence it doesn't need any work, however it took us over a month and a half to close. The short sales (repos) can take longer then that...so if this is something your thinking about, make sure you have a place to stay while closing. There are many other things to watch out for such as liability for paying per day if the house goes into closing past the date you set which can cost you quite a bit, so read the fine print. These are all just my opinions, I'm sure there's others on here in the market that might be able to help you out more. Good luck!

That double din setup might not be so bad. Are you thinking just the flat area or actually cut into a din spot? I was thinking I could mount my stereo and lay the switches out how I want. I have a couple extra in that area, so it would work out better.

I'm pretty sure you want the coolent at it's hottest point when you sense it, so the back of the head might not be bad. My fan has an electric saber type sensor that the kit wanted installed just under the radiator return hose in the radiator fins.

What dose he do with it?

What he said. No one here will spoon feed you info, it's all over the place you just gotta look!

Do a search, theres more info on here on that topic then you can use

There is a little play there at the top when you get to top dead center when the rod is finished going up and starts to go down thats almost impossible to see with the naked eye. I am in the same boat with a new cam install, not sure if its a tooth off or perfect. The only way to know without machine shop tooling would be to put the front cover on and check cam timing vs. crank timing via balancer and timing plate.

The house I own now is a 2006, and I have noticed a couple soft spots in the floor. Even new houses have there downfalls.

If he makes the consoles, they will all be the same (im assuming) so if you want it cut for a double din stereo, can there be a block off plate made for those of us that only have a single din set up? Im not that into car audio anymore, a tape deck and my ipod are enough for me.

My last house in Georgia was pretty bad. My Wife and I re-did almost the entire house and found not one, not two, but THREE layers of wallpaper that was painted over. I found three layers of linoleum on the floor when I went to put down pergo, the fan in our computer room actually had a hole cut in the ceiling above the power outlet so that the wiring could drop down INSIDE the house and be plugged into the wall. The best one was when I was cutting the pergo for an interior wall and found out that from the corner to the end (I think it was like three or four feet) the wall was off square by over three inches. I thought maby it was just because it was an older house built in the south... lack of codes?

I only do that when im changing the oil, just gotta make sure your over one of those grates. Works awsome!

Where did you get your jack? I got mine off the Mac truck, it has a nice wide rubber foot and it fits with about two inches under the metal plate your talking about. My problem is that the jack arm hits my front air dam. I think Mac thought of this though and installed a big foam rubber pad on the arm, so no worries.

I have four Mac 3 ton stands. I can get the whole car high enough off the ground to put the tranny in with no big problems. I just have to take one front tire off to make room for the bell housing to fit under the car. I have an MSA body kit on an S30, so makes it a little lower still. Im 5'10" and about 240, so you little guys be happy not to have the extra mass!