thrustnut

We just got a new product at work called Kroil. Its a rust inhibitor and it is AMAZING! I am an aircraft mechanic and have used it in the turbine section of jet engines to loosen up hardware and have never been let down. I used it a couple weeks ago on the unions on my front brake lines that where stuck to the point that I thought I was gonna have to make some new lines. I sprayed it on twice waiting about five minutes between coats and it worked like a charm. Its in an orange can, if you need more info let me know.

Thats what I need, count me in and I will start saving

So is this for a 240Z? I don't know the differences between years. Hey Crimsin, do you have a pic of the consol you want to use as a mold? And Drumming, I wouldn't think weight savings would be more then a pound at most (depending on how many bids they use). I don't know about you, but I could skip lunch and save that.

Hot Rod Lincon-Charlie Ryan The Timberline Riders Hey Man Nice Shot-Filter Fuel-Metallica Hot For Teacher-Van Halen (I love the drum intro-sounds like open headers) Just about any of these will get me a ticket

Tell the Road Runner to watch his A$$, the Coyote is back and he looks PISSED!

What will this console fit? Guess that would be good to know before jumping in.

Lack of horse power? Sorry...thats not nice...

Any idea how long it will take to get them produced? I am interested, just want to see how long I have to save up a little money.

Or buying the tool for the timing chain for a cam swap and STILL having the tensioner pop out!

Hey Crazy, sorry no head but in the same boat as you. I was building a L28 for a turbo and got a P90 and scrapped my N47. Well, things changed and I decided to go with a Arizona Z 4BBL intake and am now installing a MSA stage three cam (460 lift 270/280 dur.). The only difference is the P/O installed flat tops in my engine, so that's what I have be running. Now I have herd both ways, that a P90 is the best flowing head you can get, but then when I talk about my build I have had people tell me I have a crappy (literally) build. I ran the engine with the stock cam, and it ran pretty good. Not a beast by any means, but pulled up through the gears good. I just don't think the stock cam had the duration to maximize the benefits of the P90 head. I would think with a cam designed to pull up to 6500 RPM and a good flowing large chambered head you should be pretty set up for success. Right or wrong, I'm not sure, but I will tell you, you can run it.

LOL, thanks, but the head is still on the car. If you feel like shipping a few, that would be cool (my dime of course). I wish I would have taken the head off. This stupid valve spring compressor SUCKS!

Hey, I need a few valve spring keepers. Don't need a full set,just what ever is laying around. My valve spring compressor slipped off the valve without the keepers fully installed and they took off. I found one, but the other is MIA. There going on a P90, not sure if it matters. Shipping to 97702, need some pretty quick to finish my cam install. Thanks, Chris

Thanks for the props. The best way I found to check for vacuum leaks is with carb cleaner. Just spray down the lines you think are bad, and if idle speeds up, you found a leak. A couple things on your timing...if your not at 800ish RPM, you cant set it correctly, and did you disconnect the vacuum line to the dizzy before adjusting? I think the idle adjust on my 77 was the big screw on the top of the throttle body (as long as your not hitting the throttle stop on the linkage first). Check for vacuum leaks and get your idle set before setting timing, as long as it runs I think it should be close enough for now. Anyone want to correct me on the idle adjustment on the FI? I'm running a carb now so its been a while.

Whats your RPM when trying to set your timing?

There is also a V shaped notch on the back part of the cam gear, and an oblong grove in the cam retainer plate. Like stated before, when you are at the top of the power stroke (piston all the way up, both valves closed) that notch should line up with the grove. I never worry too much about the bright spot on the chain.

I'm pretty sure a valve seal won't make your car miss. Got spark? You can borrow a compression tester from most auto parts stores. You write a check and when you bring it back they give you the check back. If you want good help, we need more info.

Must be nice, it took the Air Force over a year to get me a copy of my 214.

Did you get your DD 214 yet? could be that. I served 10 years, so it was kinda nice...my last day active duty WAS my last day. It would suck to get back into military shape, im sure not near as bad as a Marine. Let us know!

This is a little off subject, but I just obtained from a friend a set of Cessna landing lights. They are small (about 3"x5") and will fit pretty well into the lower holes in my MSA front valance. They are non-HID (but throw a TON of light) so I should be able to wire up and go. I do allot of night driving in BFE Oregon and my worst fear is hitting a deer...that would be the end of my Z. Just have to fab some brackets to see how well they work.

I need a hood release cable for a 77 280Z if any one has one. Shipping would be to 97702. Thanks, Chris

I can't even rebuild my transmition....I cant imagine fabricating one into existence

The shop you planed to bring your car to was right about the cam though. You cant just install the cam, you have to replace the springs, lash pads, and at least clean up the rocker arms (which I doubt a shop would do...they would get new) and depending on the size of the cam, there may be more work needed to prevent interference with the guides. If your stem seals have never been replaced, it wouldn't hurt to do that at the same time. If you look up these parts on your own you will find them pretty pricey, so even though the quote you got was pretty big, there may be more to it then what you thought. (Still way too much to pull a stud)

I agree with the dowels.. they should be in. Have you checked to make sure you dont have a leak from your thermostat housing where it bolts to the head? I think there and the head gasket are your only options.

The first time I started my Z I was using a remote starter so I could play with the carb after it fired up. Well, I had a massive intake manifold leak at the head, so when I fired it up for the first time it revved up to around 4000 RPM, held for a few seconds, then died. Open header in the garage...yup, I just about wet myself. By the time I was done fumbleling around trying to get to the keys out of the ignition, it was dead. Nice way to break in a new engine. So, one little pop not so bad! (BTW, it runs great now)

I had the same problem. Have you checked your torque after the engine is warm? I did mine last time and was amazed. ALL of my hardware was loose. I also tired an old muscle car fix for crappy fitting headers that my Dad told me about. I got a can of roof sealant from Ace and coated both sides of the gasket. No leaks so far, I will check torque again this weekend.