proxlamus©

you can buy any size JWT pop charger... if you need to you can use a silicone reducer.. http://www.hightempsilicone.com has plenty of them... good luck

how did you hook up the 240SX pig-tail wires?? There was a red wire a black wire and a white/grey wire ?? Red power? Black ground? and white/grey the TPS poten. signal??? ALso.. where did you source a 5v source for the potentiometer from?

Looks like it's cheaper than MSA too... that website has it for $199 compared to $229.95 !! ------------------------------------ Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, Non Turbo Z/ZX Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, Non Turbo Z/ZX Code: 11-3073 Price: $229.95 Quantity in Basket: None The newest technology to unlock hidden power for your fuel-injected Non Turbo Z & ZX! This rising rate regulator works along with the stock regulator, and responds to your car's need for more fuel only when conditions call for it. When you want more power, the regulator increases fuel pressure. Under normal driving conditions, lower pressure is maintained for best mileage. We have received reports of 15-20 horsepower gains! ---------------------------------

the RRFPR MSA sells is from Corkey Bell.. the guy who wrote that amazing Turbocharger and Forced Induction book... look it up under Bell Enterprises.. or Bell Engineering or something.. you can find the SAME unit for much cheaper than MSA..

http://www.summitracing.com Type in Mandrel Bends... they have tons of U-Bends with diff. sizes.. and radius' (radii?) LoL.. anyway.. relatively cheap prices.. and very good reputation!

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=547816&t=547505#reply_547816 Read that thread above.. very helpful no.. an adjustable fuel pressure regulator... allows you to adjust the amount of fuel pressure (max for example) so.. you can adjust it to run up to 60psi at full throttle or what not... a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator or (FMU - Fuel Managment Unit) - [same thing just different names].. increases the fuel pressure in relation to the boost pressure... so you can buy an RRFPR or FMU with a ratio like 12 :1 ... which means for every pound of boost (psi) the fuel pressure goes up 12psi... an RRFPR or FMU is ideal for a turbo/boosted application... ADFPR is great for standlone FI... or N/A cars.. or turbo cars with low boost.

looks like you can change ur signature now

awsome!! Can you tell a difference in the performance?? turned up the boost yet?

ehh.. you guys are right.. read the info wrong... but nifty charts right?? *sigh*

This is a 56 and .70 trim.. relatively close to yours... * 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 72% to 79% efficiency region. * 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three level of boost are below the 65% efficiency region. * When accelerating towards redline, the efficiency increases towards the maximum 79% area, thus performance is best full out. * This compressor would certainly work better with more engine displacement as the horizontal lines would be more to the right * It should be obvious that this compressor can handle even more boost and remain very efficient above the 20psi line. "It can grow with your need for more speed" * Goldilocks says good for a turbo stroker. This is a 50 trim turbo.... * 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 75% +/- 1% efficiency region. * 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 74% +/- 1% efficiency region. * When accelerating towards redline, the efficiency passes through the maximum 78% area, thus performance is ideal during this period. * It should be obvious that this compressor can handle even more boost and remain very efficient above the 20psi line. "It can grow with your need for more speed" * This compressor will give great performance compared to the stock T3-60. * Goldilocks says "just right" This means that a 50 trim T04e would be IDEAL.. and since yours is .48 that is very close.. So it should be "just right"

sent ya an e-mail

well.. first off.. how much is it? Looks like a T4 compressor housing.. so a T3/T04 Also looks like it's not water-cooled but that doesn't matter anyway.. it would definatly be an increase from stock.. but what are you looking for?? the .70 a/r trim isn't the most efficient for your Z... but unless your building alot of horsepower.. i wouldn't worry about it

This is the wiring diagram I used for the Apexi S-AFC... everything ran.. um.. OK.. the sensor monitor settings showed an accurate display of the RPMS as well as the AFM voltage... power.. ground etc. NO Tach adapter needed! So it works.. but.. one problem... no matter what settings I used... i had extreme lean spikes.. and intake backfire's over 1,200 RPM. I spent a good hour tuning and adjusting the increments... adding more fuel.. decreasing etc. I went through every possible setting I could change, without much luck. I noticed that it diffenatly works... like if I chose -10% at 1,000RPM it basically takes away 10% of the fuel from the baseline fuel map. So the more i dropped it down, the closer it got to dying.. and a lower RPM. So after a weeks long research.. and a few hours in the garage.. wiring it (took 15 minutes) and trying to tune it.. not much luck... the Apexi simply doesn't like our Flap AFM.. even with the FLAP settings.. i also changed from hot wire sensor settings and that Karm. setting... No luck... SO the conlusion is... it works.. yes.. not very well.. and causes massive lean spikes at idle.. causing intake back-fires.. Could be a tuning fault from myself.. but I tell ya I went through every setting I possibly could.. so I removed the S-AFC and I am back to normal ECU.. or could of been a bad connection.. but i soldered everything on Thanks for all of your help

Okay.. finally figured it out for everyone.. and myself.. LoL Here is a diagram of what wires should be tapped into for the Apexi S-AFC! Does it work yet? Should work.. just haven't had time to hook it all up yet.. but I traced and researched every wire.. My only problem now is figuring out if the Apexi S-AFC will accept the stock RPM signal.. maybe a tachometer converter may be on it's way

KY is a water based lubricant.. LoL.. water.. and metal equalls.. well you can figure that out... Vasoline and grease will work fine

I am in the process of building up a turbo for an non turbo engine right now.. It has taken me a few months of building and preparing everything.. and carefully finding cheap and reliable parts.. and dozens of hours online researching.. so far with my 1978 280Z with the N/A N47 head and block.. I have gathered *Turbo Exhuast Manifold *T3 water-cooled turbo from a Z31 300ZX turbo *Oil Lines from a 280ZXT which bolt right onto a 280Z or 240Z using brake line brackets *Oil Tee to tee off the oil route from the oil pressure senderr *Toyota Supra Turbo 440cc fuel inectors *P.allnet 11mm o-ring fuel rail (coming in next week whoohoo!) *DSM BOV *NPR large Front Mount Intercooler *Turbo AFM *60mm TB with pig-tail potentiometer wires from a 240SX *60mm TB spacer kit from P.allnet (also coming in next week whoohoo!) *2.5" Mild Steel intercooler piping (2 u-bends, 1 90 bend, 1ft straight pipe) *Silicone couplers and connectors ( (1) 2.5"-2" reducer, (5) 2.5" couplers ) *Intake/Exhuast manifold gasket *Turbo oil inlet/outlet gaskets *Turbo manifold to turbo gasket *Turbo fittings for the watercooled center section and lines *Apexi S-AFC for piggy back fuel control *Oil pan.. I will use the N/A and punch a hole, thread a bung, and seal it properly *N/A electronics and N/A AFM electronics on that Turbo AFM *Boost gauge and lines I think that's it.. LoL.. I am very very close just need some time now.. For the oil pan situation.. you can use a N/A pan with N/A sump and N/A oil pump and you will be fine... you can't however use an turbo pan with an N/A sump.. so you need an turbo pan and turbo sump.. but the oil pan removal requires jacking up the engine and unbolting the engine mounts.. transmission rear crossmember, fan and fan shroud, a new gasket, lots of cleaning.. etc... so it's much easier to simply and PROPERLY punch a hole in the pan, and thread a bung and properly seal it, and it will be fine.

yeh I have a spare turbo AFM and spare N/A AFM in front of me.. basically the same... OK here is the 1978 Wiring Diagram... I think I narrowed it down to PIN 7 .... it's toward the bottom on the Diagram not far from the ECU... Can anyone help me out?

Ok.. after about 2 horus of research LoL.. I have come to the conclusion... This is from the FSM : -------------------------------- "When the flap deflects along with a change in the intake air flow rate, the terminal (PIN 7) mounted to the flap shaft slides on the variable resistor R from R1 to R9, causing the voltage across terminals (PIN 7 and PIN 8 ) to change. A constant voltage Ub (battery volts) is applied across terminals (PIN 6 and PIN 9). Then the air flow rate is converted with the voltage ratio signal U/Ub, which in turn is sent to the control unit for computation." --------------------------------- The applied voltage the AFM sends to the ECU is U/Ub .. basically the voltage ratio signal the ECU needs to control the fuel with the air ratio. HOWEVER.. the FSM fails to state what PIN or what wire the signal is sent out of!!! Pain in the ***.. grr anyway.. after the graph/chart research.. This means.. That PIN 7 is the "output" signal of the U/Ub voltage ratio signal... Hence.. as the RPM's increase.. the "voltage ratio signal" decreases... RPM Vu/Vub 7 3000 0.139 5.048 4000 0.122 5.220 5000 0.111 5.328 6000 0.104 5.403 7000 0.098 5.460 Doesn't this make sense or no??! Anyone care to verify?

Ok guys... blah blah blah I am tryn to figure out this S-AFC thinggy... Anyway... I need the AFM signal wire to the ECU... and I can't figure it out... which "pin" or wire tells the ECU what the air ratio is?? I copied this from BLUE's atlanta Z tech tips page... 6. AFM Measurements taken on a 77 280z referenced to chassis ground. test point 39 36 6 9 8 7 27 Vreg temp rpm 800 13.93 13.93 0.01 11.59 7.48 3.22 5.09 14.04 6 1000 13.92 13.92 0.01 11.64 7.52 4.14 5.14 14.08 6 1200 13.98 13.98 0.01 11.7 7.56 4.68 5.23 14.15 6 1400 14.03 14.03 0.01 11.76 7.59 4.99 5.21 14.18 6 1600 14.35 14.35 0.01 12.06 7.78 5.41 5.25 14.49 6 2300 14.32 14.32 0.01 12.05 7.75 5.82 5.25 14.45 6 Normalized data (to 12V standard) from above table test point 39 36 6 9 8 7 27 Vreg temp rpm 800 11.91 11.91 0.01 9.91 6.39 2.75 4.35 12.00 6 1000 11.86 11.86 0.01 9.92 6.42 3.53 4.38 12.00 6 1200 11.86 11.86 0.01 9.92 6.41 3.97 4.44 12.00 6 1400 11.87 11.87 0.01 9.95 6.42 4.22 4.41 12.00 6 1600 11.88 11.88 0.01 9.99 6.44 4.48 4.35 12.00 6 2300 11.89 11.89 0.01 10.01 6.44 4.83 4.36 12.00 6 The ECU sends a voltage ratio to the ECU. The ratio is U/Ub as per the schematic below. V Ref Resistance (9-8) Vu (8-7) Vub (9-6) Vu/Vub 3.51 3.64 9.90 0.37 3.51 2.88 9.91 0.29 3.51 2.44 9.91 0.25 3.53 2.20 9.94 0.22 3.54 1.96 9.98 0.20 3.57 1.60 10.00 0.16 The following model shows Vu/Vub vs RPM Harris Model: y=1/(a+bx^c) Coefficient Data: a = -62.727835 b = 46.860151 c = 0.049964787 Applying the model to other rpms yields (normalized and assuming Vub=10 and Vpin9=10): RPM Vu/Vub 7 3000 0.139 5.048 4000 0.122 5.220 5000 0.111 5.328 6000 0.104 5.403 7000 0.098 5.460 OK.. so I narrowed everything down to at least PIN 6 which is what I was going to hook the S-AFC (super air flow converter) up to.. But then I noticed that PIN 6 has a 0.01 voltage almost straight across the board.. while PIN 7 flucuates... Is the "main" signal from the AFM to the ECU PIN 6 or PIN 7 ?? Pin 27... is the temp sensor

I scanned the Apexi S-AFC manual's diagram, and wrote next to each connection what ECU PIN and what color the wire should be. I also scanned the 1978 FSM for a diagram of what our car really has, compared to the overly simplified Apexi S-AFC diagram. What I discovered is.. the Throttle Signal or TPS basically connects to 3 PINS on the ECU... IDLE - Pin 2 and Pin 18 (black wire) FULL THROTTLE - Pin 3 and Pin 18 (black wire) and the Air Flow signal or AFM connects to 4 PINS.. *sigh* Pin 6 and Pin 8 (black wire) Pin 7 and Pin 8 (black wire) Pin 8 and Pin 9 (black wire) This is obviously a problem, because the Apexi S-AFC only has the TPS and AFM signal connected to one wire.. not 3 or 4 for each one!!! Anyway.. can anyone give me a good idea on which wires I should connect this to.. to get it running??

Apexi S-AFC install.. I am getting close.. just need some help As you guys may or may not know, I am attempting to install this Apexi SAFC to work on our older Z cars with the factory ECU.. and here is where I am stuck.. here is a thread with tons of info about it.. and stuff http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87665 http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=558520&t=558520 Anyway.. I scanned the Apexi S-AFC manual's diagram, and wrote next to each connection what ECU PIN and what color the wire should be. I also scanned the 1978 FSM for a diagram of what our car really has, compared to the overly simplified Apexi S-AFC diagram. What I discovered is.. the Throttle Signal or TPS basically connects to 3 PINS on the ECU... IDLE - Pin 2 and Pin 18 (black wire) FULL THROTTLE - Pin 3 and Pin 18 (black wire) and the Air Flow signal or AFM connects to 4 PINS.. *sigh* Pin 6 and Pin 8 (black wire) Pin 7 and Pin 8 (black wire) Pin 8 and Pin 9 (black wire) This is obviously a problem, because the Apexi S-AFC only has the TPS and AFM signal connected to one wire.. not 3 or 4 for each one!!! Anyway.. can anyone give me a good idea on which wires I should connect this to.. to get it running??

OK.. sorry about all these posts... I was reading my FSM.. and I noticed that the stock AFM has 2 wires coming out/in. One is a Air Temperature Sensor One is a POTENTIOMETER ... which is exactly what the 240SX TB has.. a potentiometer so send the signal how open or closed the throttle is. Now if the AFM has a potentiometer.. instead of hooking the SAFC to the throttle and the TPS... why not the potentiometer on the AFM? NOTE : A potentiometer expresses the angle of rotation of the flap, monitored by a potentiometer inside the AFM....

K... the TPS has 3 wires... I THINK this is how it goes.. but then again I just read this post RED - Positive (Power) BLACK - Negative (Ground) WHITE - Sends the signal to the ECU.... ---------------------- quote : tanza/240sx tps forever now, with the extra pins for the variable load. the three pin that goes on that matches the original tps pin is what i use for eccs harness. The black connector off the tps is all you need for eccs, effectively making it a TVS-on off switch. the grey pin connector is what gives signal to variable load. since my ecu knows nothing about that load signal, i connected it directly to the afr, and the box reads load, while eccs gets on and off. ---------------------- or is it ? Black - Turns ECCS on/off Red - to my ignition? Grey/White - Sends load signal to the SAFC ????? So I guess I hook up the black connector? or the Grey/white?? *sigh* Do I need to power the TPS for it to send the signal? Ohh yeh.. guess that's where the 0-5 volts come from correct??! I'll hook it up to the ignition i suppose. OK.. so TPS is figured out.. now for the Tach... Since I am running the stock ignition and electronics... and getting an MSD 6A would be out of my price range right now... could I simply get a TACHOMETER adapter? ------------------------------------- Keep your tachometer honest. Tach Adapter, Magnetic Pickup Ignition Systems, Each If you are using the magnetic pickup input (green and violet wires) to trigger your MSD Ignition, you will need one of these tach adapters. These units will correct the operation of most voltage-triggered tachometers that do not work directly off of the tach output terminal of your MSD unit. -------------------------------------- Now if I get this TACH adapter.. I can still run the stock tachometer without problems right?!

So someting like this?? http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&Ntt=+MAP+Sensor&N=%2D138779&part=MSD%2D2312&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch ------------------------------------------ Map Sensor, Bosch Style, 2 Bar, Each The pressure inside your intake manifold is extremely important input to the ECU. A quality MAP sensor like MSD's is crucial to your engines performance. These sensors will respond to changes in manifold pressures and relay the information to the ECU in the form of a voltage signal ranging from about 1 to 5 volts. They're available in several different versions for naturally aspirated engines as well as engines with forced induction. ------------------------------------------- Ok.. so I can get an MAP sensor.. however.. how would the SAFC tell the difference between the TPS and/or the MAP?? Obviously the SAFC monitors how open or closed the throttle is.. for example the throttle is 38% open, and adds in a certain amount of fuel... But the MAP just monitors the manifold pressure.. soo.. could this tell how open/closed the throttle is? There is a setting on the SAFC which you can monitor the Throttle.. which tells you the percent it is open (38% example) .. would the MAP do the same?

Alright... ran into a problem... How do I wire the extra wires on the 240sx 60mm TB?? There is a pig-tail with 3 wires.... now.. how exactly do I wire this up to the Apexi SAFC for it to read the TPS? Should I extend a wire all the way across the engine bay, and connect it directly to the Apexi's TPS wire?