proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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I see you've made it over to HybridZ Carl Beck! Welcome on over here!
Thanks for those awsome specs!
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hurm.. i tried IE and Firefox.. weird.. oh well..
damnit I am just going to buy a few and test em out..
Oh if you click "print article" version you can see some small pics.. they have yarn testing before and after the VG's and they placed some UNDER the car?!
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I must be retarted.. the AeroTab article and the first 3 links open up and show a "preview" of the article.. then ends with
"Click here for online access to the rest of this article"
When I click on that here to view the rest of the article it asks for payment like $40 or just $6 for ONLY that article
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well thats another way of doing it.. HOT exhuast manifold.. fuel ignites..
as for the Group B Audi Quattro S1 .. there is a similar setup in GiGi Galli's Mitsubishi Evo WRC car that vents the compressed air into the exhuast manifold.. which is used for the antilag... you need
1)fuel
2)air
for an explosion.. Mitsubishi decided to use the compressed air for this source.
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awwa I have to have a subscription..
what were the results on the air tabs? success?
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one more vid wouldnt hurt....
Subaru Anti Lag competition
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That would be an anti-lag or mis-fire system..
basically the timing is retarted to about -40 degrees and the mixture is ignited.. the combustion expands out of the cylinders and out the exhuast valve which is WIDE open at -40 degrees.
This is the FIRE and loud BANG BANG accompanied with the setup.
Rally cars (WRC) use this setup to run boost ALL the time.. on or off the throttle...
this video is a great demonstration -
Jon you rock for posting those links..
thanks
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hurmm I would want square.. but I would take 1 .. definatly
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cant forget about me Alex..
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um.. maybe the idle air valve open too much?!
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Also prox, doesn't Z-Gad run a 2JZ? Not really comparable IMHO. Apples and oranges. What lift/duration works on a 2JZ head might do exactly nothing on a L.
he used to have a wicked L series build up.. he now has a 2JZ ..
the cam specs are for a L series
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yes i went back to hydraulic.. i am too lazy to change an entire head for now
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So I am definatly upgrading my camshaft.. I want more power!
However.. I was curious on how to build a camshaft based off my turbo..
I am looking for a cam where the turbo will spool up and build boost and the cam should come alive at the same time.
Now for a Holset for example.. full boost is around 3,600 RPM (16psi) .. now how to match that with cam specs?! oh boy.. now I am getting lost.
Z-gad developed his grind with a noticeable performance boost
Intake 490 lift 276 duration Lift
Exhaust 480 lift 266 duration
114* lobe center
44* overlap
Elgin Cam
Intake 480 lift 266 duration
Exhuast 480 lift 266 duration
112* lobe center
48* overlap
intake open was 21 degrees@50 and exhaust I believe if memory serves me correctly 72 degrees.
Isky cam
Intake 580 lift 290 duration
Exhuast 540 lift 270 duration
Lobe Center 114*
Overlap 55*
MSA Stage I (Schneider)
Intake .460 lift 260 durations lift
Exhuast .440 lift 250 duration
MSA Stage II (Schneider)
Intake .460 lift 270 durations lift
Exhuast .460 lift 260 duration
Schneider Stage III
Intake 488 lift 284 duration
Exhuast 488 lift 270 duration
Lobe 114
RaceTep
Intake 480 lift 272 duration
Exhuast 480 lift 274 exhuast
So it appears Z-gads grind is a bit beefier .. almost like a "Stage III" cam MSA would offer if they did manufactor it.
But how do I go about choosing a proper cam build for my Z?
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the timeserts were a bitch to pull out.. I hate them..
3 out of the 12 came out .. the others were stuck inside.. I actually took a screwdriver.. and partially scored the threads.. so the lifter would screw on very snug and lift the whole insert out.
LoL..
Jon I did not convert to a solid cam because of a time crunch.. I have finals tomarrow and my car is a daily driver..
keep in mind I have 2 spare P90 heads.. so I will throw on a solid P90 in the future with a very nice setup.. (evil grin)
by the way.. the main reason I did this swap was to stop the annoying ticking.. cleaning the hydraulic lifters did the trick!! yeppie! and no more adjusting.. lol
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Dave and Logan...
take a look at this PDF file from Mitsubishi.. this describes how and why the vortex generators were implemented on the roof of the EVO
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Alrighty...
I went ahead and purchased the parts needed for the solid lifter conversion. I purchased the time-sert inserts.. and a spare P90 and I used the solid lifters.
I soon found out.. after starting the engine up... that it sounded like a freakn diesal.. and yes everything was adjusted properly to spec.. hot and cold.
Well here is one thing NO one ever mentioned about the solid lifter conversion. The hydraulic camshaft has a different shaped cam lobe.. and is designed to smoothly ramp up on the hydraulic lifters.
When you use the solid lifters on the hydraulic camshaft.. the hydraulic camshaft "slaps" the rocker arm.. which creates noise and wearing of the rocker arms and camshaft lobe.. maybe more. (Thanks BRAAP for the info)
This means you MUST use the solid lifters as well as the solid camshaft! MUST!!!
But here are the pictures of the solid lifter conversion.. which is now deemed a complete and total waste UNLESS you convert to a solid camshaft..
This is a picture of a P90 SOLID head..
Hydraulic lifter on the left.. Solid on the right with the insert
This is a picture of the HYDRAULIC P90a head.. notice the countersink in the lifter threading? This is why you need the insert.. in addition to the diff diameter in the lifters.
I went ahead and grabbed my old hydraulic lifters.. and bought 4 little plastic tubs from Home Depot for $3.00.
-1 tub was the disassembly tub and i drained all the oil in there
-1 tub was filled with Toulene and i washed the parts for a few minutes
-1 tub was also filled with Toulene but was the "clean" tub to remove any excess oil/gunk and was free from contaminants.
-1 tub was full of Automatic transmission fluid
I then assembled the hydraulic lifter under the ATF since it is a detergant, but is still able to lubricate the lifter so I dont have a dry start.
(one note.. when you full the lifter up with oil, and drop the spring in, you can not push in the piston with the ball and spring built in. I used a small screwdriver to push the ball down onto the spring, which allowed the ATF to flow through the piston which allows the lifter pivot thing to slide down all the way)
I started the car up.. it ticked for a few minutes and then stopped.
Overall this was not the way I had hopped.. but I was able to fix the ticking problem and I learned that you CAN NOT simply switch the lifters.
for more information on how to dis-mantle and assemble the hydraulic lifters, please check out this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115760
=)
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Alrighty...
I went ahead and purchased the parts needed for the solid lifter conversion. I purchased the time-sert inserts.. and a spare P90 and I used the solid lifters.
I soon found out.. after starting the engine up... that it sounded like a freakn diesal.. and yes everything was adjusted properly to spec.. hot and cold.
Well here is one thing NO one ever mentioned about the solid lifter conversion. The hydraulic camshaft has a different shaped cam lobe.. and is designed to smoothly ramp up on the hydraulic lifters.
When you use the solid lifters on the hydraulic camshaft.. the hydraulic camshaft "slaps" the rocker arm.. which creates noise and wearing of the rocker arms and camshaft lobe.. maybe more. (Thanks BRAAP for the info)
This means you MUST use the solid lifters as well as the solid camshaft! MUST!!!
But here are the pictures of the solid lifter conversion.. which is now deemed a complete and total waste UNLESS you convert to a solid camshaft..
This is a picture of a P90 SOLID head..
Hydraulic lifter on the left.. Solid on the right with the insert
This is a picture of the HYDRAULIC P90a head.. notice the countersink in the lifter threading? This is why you need the insert.. in addition to the diff diameter in the lifters.
I went ahead and grabbed my old hydraulic lifters.. and bought 4 little plastic tubs from Home Depot for $3.00.
-1 tub was the disassembly tub and i drained all the oil in there
-1 tub was filled with Toulene and i washed the parts for a few minutes
-1 tub was also filled with Toulene but was the "clean" tub to remove any excess oil/gunk and was free from contaminants.
-1 tub was full of Automatic transmission fluid
I then assembled the hydraulic lifter under the ATF since it is a detergant, but is still able to lubricate the lifter so I dont have a dry start.
(one note.. when you full the lifter up with oil, and drop the spring in, you can not push in the piston with the ball and spring built in. I used a small screwdriver to push the ball down onto the spring, which allowed the ATF to flow through the piston which allows the lifter pivot thing to slide down all the way)
I started the car up.. it ticked for a few minutes and then stopped.
Overall this was not the way I had hopped.. but I was able to fix the ticking problem and I learned that you CAN NOT simply switch the lifters.
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I have a spare T3 .. with very very little shaft play..
let me know.. I wont donate it LoL..but i guarantee this turbo is a good one
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can I safely run the car for sometime with this setup? or will this kill the hydraulic camshaft and rockers?
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Unbelievable.. stupid stupid hydraulic system.
I am honestly about to go back.. clean the hydraulic lifters.. and install them.
If not.. a new freakn P90 will go on.. this is crazy.
gggrrroowwll..
Thanks guys.. I really appreciate your help with everything!
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Well I am using a P90a that had hydraulic lifters.. stock cam.. stock everything.. i just added solid lifters
How can I tell if I have a hydraulic cam?
I put a 3.36 rear diff into my z and damn
in Drivetrain
Posted
im currently running a 3.54 in my Turbo'd 280z.. ive never driven anything else..
but that makes sense.. you know I can't break the tires loose by mashing the gas pedal in first second third or beyond?!
ive always wondered.. oh maybe its not tuned properly.. but then I started thinking..
1) my altitude of 5,800 ft. + non standard temp = very high density altitude
2) my 3.54 gearing.. the turbo LOVES it and highway driving is awsome..
if i were to race from a dead stop.. I would be destroyed from 0-65mph .. however.. around 65mph the turbo spools up like all hell and 65-130mph (maybe speedo error) is amazing... car is fast (top speed) but a slow (acceleration)