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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. Alrighty...

     

    I have a P90a head that has been ticking from time to time.. so I decided to convert to solid lifters..

     

    I bought a spare P90 .. and the TimeSert or whatever inserts...

     

    I installed the new solid lifters and began adjusting the valves. Now I am using a feeler guage, and my process is slip in the correct size feeler guage so it slides in fairly easily.

     

    I have the following measurements.. I am not sure if it's different for P90's versus a N42 for example

     

    HOT

    Exhuast .012 in Intake .010 in

     

    Now I am able to slip in the correct size feeler guage fairly smoothly.. the next size up I have to sorta wiggle in and it slides in very snug.

     

    When I start the car and its operating warm, Ive checked the measurements and made any necessary adjustments.

     

    However.. slight problem.. the mo fo sounds like a diesal! I'm not sure if its because I just jumped from Hydraulic to Solids and thats how noisey they are.. but it sounds like a diesal.

     

    What happens if the valves are too loose?

    What happens if the valves are too tight?

     

     

    (Z-gad I also sent you a PM.. I know you've dealt with hydraulics to solids, just in case you don't see this)

  2. That is correct tannji .. Subaru calls it the "roof vane" while Mitsubishi has vortex generators.. yes RedFive they are different

     

    I found this article online

    AERODYNAMICS

    First, when referring to the evolution of chassis, the improvement of the aerodynamic performance from the change of the body shell must be mentioned. To decrease the air resistance caused at the front edge of the based body, the front had been slanted to repress the flow of air on the surface of the bonnet hood.

    Also, this had allowed the efficient use of air to be induced to the cooling system and to draw out air from the engine bay. On the most notable exterior feature, the rear wing, a vertical rectifying plate was inserted in the space between the large double wings in order to improve the stability in steering. The garny on the rear end of the wing has adjusted its height in order to gain more down force. Along with the four vertical plates, it is now able to capture efficiently the flow of air from the side and stabilize the aerodynamics feature in the mid-low speed range when the tails slide. The shape of the front bumper and front side air splitter is designed primarily to suit the down force in the high-speed rally. The lower front chin spoiler has been changed to flexible soft carbon from last year's rubber. These changes are made in order to prevent the deforming, breakage and dropping while catching the air.

     

    The shape of the door mirror has been changed also to maximize the aerodynamic performance. It has always been a pursuit to reduce the size, but this time, the air is allowed to flow through the side of the body as the mirror is detached from the body.

     

    In recent years, WRC has become a sport of speed, and the evolution of the aerodynamics performance is constantly requested. The aerodynamic set-up has become much essential factor just like the closed circuit racing.

    1_1.jpg

     

     

    Also

    The Impreza WRX STI is equipped with a rally-inspired spoiler that does a lot more than just draw admiring glances. The large, WRC box-type rear spoiler helps to provide added down-force to keep the car stable at high speeds. For 2006, a new roof vane helps direct airflow towards the spoiler for even better aerodynamic performance.

    06_STI_spoiler.jpg

     

    While you might not be able to see it, the underside of the 2006 Impreza WRX STI is just as aerodynamically advanced as its body, thanks to its engine and floor aerodynamic covers as well as a new-for-2006 rear diffuser, which helps provide exceptional stability at speed.

    06_STI_diffuser.jpg

  3. that is the bumpiest map i've ever seen.. LoL.. bunch of areas with what looks like lean spikes.. so your dumping tons of fuel in a cell..

     

     

     

    are your AFR's steady or all over? and whats going on after 180kpa?! suddenly gets SUPER lean.. never plan on runnin more boost? if not.. still tune it to like 150% so you dont go boom

  4. Ive been having issues the past few months with throttle enrichment issues..

     

    I am running 021u right now.. and I was goin to upgrade to 029 because of the TPS/MAP dot tuning.. but I was talkign to Jeremy and he has has the same issue with mainly all MAP dot tuning..

     

    basically when im cruising or at idle.. i will barely move the throttle.. and it has an immediate lean spike, then richens back up. Now if I add like full throttle quickly it doesnt do it.. but cruising and just opening it up a bit.. SPIKE SPIKE!

     

    Anyone have any advice on the tip-in throttle when you first open it up?

     

    or maybe a screen shot of the MS table?

  5. i was watching horsepower tv.. and they recommended to do the following...

     

    Bolt the flange onto the head, using a washer sandwiched between the head and flange, and another washer for the nut/bolt.

    Tac weld your first tubing onto the flange

    Tac weld all the bends, the collector etc

    Cut/Break the tac welds off the flange from the new manifold

    Weld together all of your bends and the collector

    Place the manifold back onto the flange and weld efficiently, allowing enough time to allow the manifold to cool. Also keep the flange bolted tightly on the head, to prevent warping

  6. Tim..

     

    simply amazing..

     

    what transmission are you running? just a custom built T-5?!! whowowowa

     

    and OMG .. I cant believe these numbers! thats crazy! especially at 16psi creeping to 19psi! Unless I read it too quickly..

     

    Also what gas were you running? 110 race fuel? 93 pump gas? nitrous? meth? water injection?

     

    Excuse my ignorance.. ive viewed your Ohh Wilma thread... but what the hell are you running very briefly? stroker? camshaft? head work? I see ITB's and a HUGE turbo.. but.. please!

  7. Hope its easy with the H1C ..

     

    the HY35W and the HX35W with the V-band is damn near impossible to find..

     

    I searched for weeks without much luck.. cheapest was around $100

     

    but it was a 3.75" V-band..

     

    but yes.. buy the V-band seperatly.. if you have a downpipe simply clamp em together..

     

    if not.. buy a V-band flange.. and the V-band clamp.. and weld up a DP

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