proxlamus©

jmortensen .... you are correct, since cowl hoods pull the high pressure from the windshield and suck it down into the carb or engine bay... However, this is true on some cars, and not necessarily for other cars... the 240Z has that nasty firewall, which builds up tons of air... YES there is HP on front of the windshield and HP inside the engine bay.. but which is higher?? Lets just say.. im just throwing random number out here.. but lets just say the engine bay has 25 pounds of air pressure at 100MPH .. and the front of the windshield has 18 pounds of air pressure at 100MPH.. The lower 18lbs of pressure on the windshield is lower than the 25lbs of pressure inside the engine bay.. High Pressure always flows to Low(er) pressure area's.. therefore ... there would be some suction going on..

then why does Innovate sell a Wideband O2 Guage for like $200??

I got bored today, and decided to make a PCV evacuation system... similar to the stock setup I didn't want to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold, so I did it the easy, cheap and effective way.. With the turbo, and N42 intake manifold, the PCV valve hits the turbo outlet, so I had to plug it up with a large bolt.. soo I put a filter on the end of the crank tube... since the oil and gas blow by blows OUT of the crankcase/block the filter would become clogged, and when this happened, strange things would occur.. the clogged blow by, caused sooo much high pressure build up in the crankcase/block, the turbocharger oil drain would not even drain the oil, because the high pressure was keeping the oil in the line. This would result in the oil to leak out of the turbo seals, and drip into the exhuast, which would smoke really really really bad. I then ran it open with no filter or anything, but I feared on a dirty or wet condition, water would enter the crankcase and contaminate the oil. SOO.. I attached clear hose from Home Depot to the crankcase PCV outlet, and put the open end behind the brake master cylinder and brake heat shield so no dirt would enter it Well.. with the PCV and nasty blowby gases pointed at the firewall, and the old rubber grommets I had, when I rolled the window down the high pressure in the engine bay would flow into the cockpit/cabin and create a vacuum.. ****, now I am smelling all this nasty *** blow by... I decided to buy the largest PCV valve I could at Checker Auto Parts, and attached a 3/8" hose to the intake manifold... obviously since it's smoothed and cleaned up, I TEE'd off the blow off valve vacuum source, and voila!! Magic! I noticed the engine seems to run a weeee bit smoother, and the RPMS are steadier... (the vacuum creates a better seal between the pistons rings and crankcase) here are the pics Notice the tube from under the intake manifold to the crankcase hole, and the shiney silver filter?? well that didnt work well NOW here is my ghetto setup

wait.. I have an idea to reduce the pressure in the engine bay... and its soo simple its dumb Pop the hood open a bit... since it pops in the back, the hood still stays latched, and wont fly open like typical hoods that open in front.. The boundary layer, and air flow flowing OVER the hood, will actually SUCK the air out of the engine bay, therfore reducing engine bay pressure.. on top of pulling the high pressure air out of the engine bay, it will also help pull the HEAT out, and the fan will be more effective, and the car will cool faster. Now the hood opens by the windshield.. which would be dumb, since there is an area of high pressure along the windshield... depends on what you consider "high pressure" though.. There is a higher pressure gradient in the engine bay, that along the windshield.. soo in addition to the airflow over the e-bay sucking the air out, the higher pressure from the engine bay will flow to the "lower" pressure built up along the windshield. also consider the turbo 'vent' on the 280zx's.. now technically your bringing cooler forced air into the turbo which would help cool some.. BUT.. what is happening at high speeds?? the RAM AIR effect... so your ramming even MORE pressure into the engine bay... at slow speeds it helps aiding in the escape of the pressure... but when your moving quickly.. it actually hinders the effect

a proper air dam, vented or a louvered hood, and even venting the fenders (would require vents on the fenders AND through the support) would greatly reduce high pressure in the engine bay, and would help cool the engine.. a small hatch lip will stretch the vacuum or low pressure out a bit further behind the car Now guys... we are not flying an airplane or doing a land speed record... its a street car.. so everything is soo minute, it wont cause such a huge improvement.. wide tires for example.. wont make much of a difference Hell .. it's 1970's technology... it looks good, and handles superbly.. what else do you want?

really?? hmm maybe ill drive down for a bit.. or ask the instructor if i can fly down for a bit =)

Hey guys.. i was looking at upgrading to wideband, why not... but anyway.. I obviously don't need the LM1 .. the innovate wideband O2 sensor, and controller and datalogging, since Megasquirt allows me to simply "plug" it in, and even data log... Innovate offers a LC1 - basically the Wideband O2 sensor and some wires? wtf Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Lambda Cable (Standalone Wideband Controller) With LSU4.2 Wideband 02 Sensor What comes in the box: · Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Lambda Cable (Wideband Controller) · Bosch Wideband o2 Sensor · o2 Sensor bung and plug · PC interface cable, status indicator etc. · Installation manual Click here to download the LC-1 users manual · CD-ROM with software · Innovate Motorsports Sticker Do I need the LC1 ?? or can I simply go out and buy a Bosch Wideband O2 sensor for $89??

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/index.html

Ok... this might be a long post Two types of drag Parasite Drag and Induced drag Parasite drag = the drag caused by the movement of the car through the air Six types of Parasite drag: Skin friction - caused by the viscous friction w/ in the boundary layer (smooth the surface and file down rough edges) In a Z, hood louvers, sun roof, front bumper, front grill, hatch louvers, side moulding, door handles, mirrors, windshield blades etc Form Drag - drag created or influenced by the form or shape of the car (streamline to help minimize frontal area) Primary source of poor aerodynamics in the Z... Interference Drag - caused by the unterference of airflow patterns around diff car parts (air from the side of the car hitting the air from the roof of the car) Leakage drag - caused by differential pressure inside and outside the car causing air to leak out (repair seals of use tape to elminate leaks around windows and doors) In a Z, bad seals, and especially the high pressure built up under the hood, allows differential pressure to leak out, and air to suck in the car. High pressure always flows to low pressure... the atmosphere always tries to create equality...so the high will always chase the low, and "fill it in" So.. rolling down a window, allows the HIGH pressure outside to flow into a LOW pressure area Profile drag - drag created by moving blades .. which would not apply to us.. helicopters and propeller driven aircraft Wave Form drag - drag associated with shock waves forming around a fast moving car (sometimes considered a seperate or third type of drag) (FYI- a car will not be moving that fast to associate with this type of drag, but it exists) MMM.. I don't know if I can even apply this to a Z, since we don't move fast enough, but baby waves over the roof of the car behind the hatch Induced Drag = the drag created through the production of lift *The front end of a Z and the pointy sloped nose creates a HUGE area of High Pressure, which results in LIFT... Induced drag is a resultant of the lift created Now.. as the air hits the front of the Z, the HUGE grill , causes the air to simply HIT the front end, and slow the car down. The air that flows over the leading edge of the hood, will flow up the hood, and smack into the windshield. The area around the windshield is high pressure, which pushes the moving air over the boundary layer to seperate some. As the air moves over the roof of the Z, the air velocity begins to increase, and slowly breaks off the boundary layer once again, and seperates over the hatch. As the air flows down the hatch, it intersects the air flowing under the car. the air that begins to flow under the front nose/lip of the Z builds up in an area of high pressure... basic flight theory is, high pressure under the wing, and low pressure above the wing creates lift. with an airdam, the air will build up on the front spoiler/dam and creates downforce, but the stock nose creates a "cushion" to float on.. anyway, the air then flows into the front crossmember and axles, and oil pan creating more drag, and then the air hits the firewall.. One weak part in the Z is the firewall, a 90* degree wall, which the air simply collides into, and creates a huge area of high pressure.. if you watch a Z hood at high speeds, you will see it BOW out, Tony D posted pics a long time ago of the hood bowing out... now this high pressure under the hood, creates leakage drag into the airflow over the hood, which then creates interference drag. So all this air flow is disrupted as it hits the engine components, then it hits the transmission, and flows somewhat smoothly along the underbelly.. then the air hits the rear cross member, axels, differential etc, once again disrupting this flow, creating more drag and high pressure.. then the air hits the gas tank, and swirls up behind the gas tank and rear valence or pan. once again, more drag.. A splitter, or rear diffuser will control the air flow, and help it flow smoothly, and quickly... Now all this High Pressure air flows out of the back of the Z and immediatly gets sucked into the LOW pressure area around the tail lights... this is why the Z has terrible exhuast fumes... the low pressure sucks the exhuast fumes up, and leaks through the tail light gaskets, hatch gasket etc. depending on the speeds, but within a few feet from the tail lights, the airflow from under the car, and over the car collide creating more interference drag.. then this wild air flow, equalizes in pressure behind the car.. keep in mind, the headlight scoops, side markers, wheel wells, wheel shape and form, tires, etc also creates drag. Now guys.. I have not over read my post at all... I am not an aerodymicist, so I may not be 100% correct on everything, so feel free to correct me I simply want to give the general idea, why Z's have poor aerodynamics

LoL... Bryan I did the SAME thing!! Makes life easy for those of us with NO laptop... Ohh Bryan... FYI.. when you start your project.... I'll just fly down to Calhan .. short short trip... don't you live close to Calhan airport?? I can figure out a way to get to your place Throw a bike in the back of the Cessna

hot damn!! Sweet thanks for the vids guys! Make a new one! and thumper... bad!! watch your head!

those are MAF's then, with a hot wire sensor... just to add on.. Clifton is right

Mike... my exhuast USED to be a 3" open downpipe... then i bugged me because all the sound was directly under me.. not behind me.. soo.. i welded on a 5' pipe to the end of the downpipe.. So yes.. it was as loud as yours.. har har

when you find an adapter that will work.. you gimmie a shout.. LoL.. is the later ZX tranny a big difference?? i was considering a KA tranny for sometime now.. how does that gearing feel when driving?? also.. a 3.54 LSD?? R180?? explain =) oh please

hmm.. well I have a '77 280Z five speed.. and a '78 3.54 R180 in my car... ya sayin my tranny and diffy suck ***?? i wanna upgrade damnit

I know! the prices are insanely cheap now.. I bought my Izuzu NPR intercooler for $200 last year.. feel like its a rip off now

ohh man... you 3 tearing up the streets in Houston.. way to represent the Z!! whoo whoo!! 73turbo240z... what are ya doin about the tranny issue?? Mike.. amazing car my man.. what hood ya goin with? my opinion.. a c/f hood will top it all off check out mine http://www.putfile.com/proxlamus

what kinda oil are you using? Like a 20w50? 10w30?? how cold is it outside? Im very confused how you have this issue... but with thicker oil, you should run some more pressure... by a little bit

i'm actually in Centennial (aurora) colorado.. Calhan is close to Colorado Springs

http://media.putfile.com/My-Z-video

ohh I like those wheels.. what wheels are they?

It's good to see JohnC asking a question!! LoL.. John i've always been amazed, how you virtually know... well everything.. haha good to see your human

Bryan let me know when your going to start the swap... I can drive up and attempt to help ya guys out, and learn... I can't believe Mike is still workn on that TT project using those Nissan T3's right??

LoL.. i told ya before you even saw it on Zcar!! =) haha.. congrats Terry

magnetic brakes are freakn cool.. AK-Z your 100% correct, trailers do use electric brakes.. My impression of this thread is for purely electric brakes.. which would be a no no.. bad bad idea Many many newer cars now use electronically assisted brakes... which would use an electric solenoid to push on the master cylinder, or even a solenoid on the actual caliper which would "aid" in addition to the hydrolic brakes, but i don't see the advantage of that.. except.. umm... i have no idea.. longer master cylinder life? haha