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proxlamus©

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Everything posted by proxlamus©

  1. weird.. was it previously installed in a car by the previous owner?? With a Gnose, you need special hinges, or the use of stock hinges, swings the hood out and up... using the stock hinges will cause the hood to hit the Gnose and potentially crack it... Im thinking, the previous owner, had no idea he needed special hinges, so he kept hitting the Gnose... soo.. in order to fix this problem, he trimmed a few inches off the leading edge to allow the hood to open and close freely... (i would of just used hood pins, so it doesn't have to swing open) Anyway.... no the gap should be no bigger than 1/4" but that is still pretty large... look at the gap between the hood and the fenders.. should be no larger than that.
  2. you know who else I have a feeling will blow their tranny?? Austin... I'd hate to say it.. but I think your next.. 73turbo240z and Thumper all in one month.. all horsepower ranges 300 rwhp + hmm
  3. wow!! cool!! What year ford escort!! I need to do this mod! I have the Frod Taurus fan right now as a pusher, not a puller
  4. your 100% correct... the boost control will lack without a doubt, and the boost creep will be reduced.. However, yes it will crack over time... I doubt the housing will be affected.. they are made of cast iron aren't they? they will hold up to alot.. the air as it passes over the leading edges won't superheat or anything, but the intense heat from the exhuast will heat and crack the narrow, weakend puck. there is a downside to almost everything... but it would reduce creep wouldnt it? just go external.. it'll be worth it in the long run
  5. yeh... I remember when it was on ebay a long time ago
  6. ford taurus electric fan temps dont hit more than 200* F
  7. haha .. the song is from "Foxy Shazam" song called "NO don't shoot" I had to add something wild.. haha I love it
  8. *edit* weird... 240hoke and 2fiddyZ posted some threads.. I dont know where they went.. Austin I mean to empahsize the stock T3 has two sources, into one source on the wastegate.. the stock T3 would be a great cadidate for using a dual port wastegate since there are already two sources.. Anyway.. the wastegate actuator won't do much for preventing boost creep.. and like 2 fiddyZ was mentioning.. the best place to have the boost sources are- The end of the compressor housing Right before the throttle body or tap the manifold That will send the overall "average" between the two sources into the wastegate for effective boost control.. Best way to get rid of boost creep is - port the hell out of the wastegate opening.. and upgrade to a larger puck. Alot of guys also drill a small whole on the actual wastegate puck, to vent off extra pressure... so the air doesnt hit the puck and immediatly have to change direction causing resistance. With a hole drilled in the puck, the air will flow through the puck, minimizing resistance and interference drag. Interference drag = Parasite drag caused by the interference of airflow patterns around different parts (ie - wastagate puck) Ok I went ahead and did 3 MS PAINT pictures.. #1 - basic system of a turbo which everyone should know #2 - air flow as it hits the wastegate and example of Interference drag #3 - hole in the wastegate puck, notice the slight improvement of airflow and slight reduction in interference drag I'm trying my best to describe it.. let me know if I may be inconclusive.. or I might of mixed something up
  9. the dual port will allow two vacuum sources.. The stock Nissan T3 shows a great example of this... two ports out of the turbo One port in the beginning of the compressor housing, and one right at the end of the housing.. the two different vacuum sources will be applied into the wastegate diaphram for a more "controlled" diaphram expansion and contraction.. my educated assumption anyway.. http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=BCS A boost pressure source near the compressor housing is critical for proper boost control, however, removing the compressor housing from the turbo to tap it for a pressure signal fitting can be a real chore...especially when the turbo is already mounted to the engine. Each QuickTap kit includes all parts necessary to easily create a reliable boost pressure port on the first silicone connector out of the turbo compressor outlet. Our QuickTap kit features 100% of the functionality and reliability of a fitting on the compressor housing without the hassle of drilling and tapping the housing itself.
  10. Dale MX ... keep in mind this will be different if you have a 14" wheel, or 15" or 16" wheel etc.. do you mean a mark on the inside of the wheel? or the outside of the wheel? Outside of the tire? too many variables
  11. you must have terrible sex then haha congrads on the new welder though man! Take some pics of your work!
  12. Thumps.. here's a Holset turbo FAQ from Dodge.. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm boost creep is so hard to fix.. with an internal gate.. other than porting the hole, maybe upgrading the wastegate puck.. i dunno CREEP is when the turbo produces soo much air, even with the wastegate fully open, it still creates backpressure and spools the turbo more than you wish. # Normal boost rise when set to 13 psi = shoots up to 14, then 13, 13, 13... # Spiking = shoots up to 16, then 15, 14, 13, 13, 13... # Boost creep = shoots up to 14, then 13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17... # Spiking and boost creep = shoots up to 16, then 15, 14, 13, 14, 15, 16,17...
  13. i just sold my DSM BOV.. anyway... the 1st generation Eclipse/DSM blow off valve will hold up to 18psi, and you can crush it to handle 27psi!! and it sounds sweet.. ask Mnelson.. or Mobythevan (Brian sold his car to Nelson) .. which ran a DSM BOV
  14. Xander.. you have a MSQ file I can peak at?? I'd love to see your setup with MSnS E
  15. alot of guys on here run a turbo on a stock n/a block and head.. I run 10psi on my N47 head and N47 block.. I ran on the N/A ECU and 310cc injectors for a whille, and eventually went MegaSquirt... do a quick search in Engine Compents.. youll be happy
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