Richard Oben

The F body pan and the "bat wing" pan are similar in the front so that will help. The Vette pan is wider at the rear and more baffled, logic was Camaro guys are more straight line and vette guys are more curvy. With the forward exhaust the vette pan should be OK. Make no promises but it is very shallow, which is good. HTH, Richard.

Nice Job, going fast is a lot harder than anyone thinks it is. Drag goes up with the cube of speed. Anything over 150 is super impressive! Congrats!

I remember that car. Like you, I have an FFR in my garage since 1998 up until last November, Cobras, coupe GTM and all were fun. BUT I have had about 6 Zs all of them 240s. First one in 1984, (god I got old) and every time I get in it feels like home. I am not ready to start a thread yet but will soon. Richard.

I will be watching and learning. Nice set up, seems a shame to cut up that nice a donor car. Richard.

The big stuff is the really gratifying stuff that goes fast and makes huge differences. The little stuff is what matters and takes the most time. Stuff like wiring the engine looks like nothing has changed but paying attention to the details make a big difference in the end. In short do not get impatient. You have done a great job so far no need to rush it now. Richard.

Looks good. One observation from a long time EFI guy. NEVER use worm clamps on High Pressure EFI and the Glass filter mounted is not rated for 40 PSI either. Not trying to be the PC police but I would hate for all the work to go up in flames. Richard.

I am pretty sure no one follows the book exactly. In your case the 6060 is/was an issue. For us, the 04 GTO from the donor is going to have a shifter issue and maybe an alternator issue. The CX kit is really pulling me in with the Exhaust being a big pull. Really want to hear your opinion on the fit of the rest of the it and the sound; is it too loud will be a question too. Thanks for the info. Richard.

So it all begs the question, was the CX kit good for you? I know using the truck engine and the non T56 handed you a few challenges, but would you do it again? I have my car and the donor is apart. So it is close to time for me to decide. Thanks for a great job posting and taking pics. Well done, Richard.

A lot of people just make or modify the lower control arm mount. The M bar is a must swap Good deal on the M bar. NOT positive but the flip mount is what I remember. HTH, Richard.

As stated above. It does require a different mustache bar, the curved one and the lower arm mount also curved for clearance. The can be from any late 240 up to 280 The front is just flipping the mount if I recall correctly.

I would not have the shaft shortened. I would move the Diff. The LS is going to push the limits of NVH adding the offset diff will make it worse. At least investigate before you decide. It is a really easy job. 9 or 10 bolts total. JMHO, YMMV, Richard.

My bet is the fact you have an early car and have the forward mounted differential. The series one cars had them, Datsun realized the angled half shafts caused vibration and moved the diffs back in 71. If your car is early 71 it may be better to move the diff than shorten the shaft. Mustache bar and rear lower control arm mounts need swapped and the front diff mount reversed. HTH, Richard. PS I have three series one cars.

The DBW works no matter the engine running or not. Turn the key on with the DBW TB off and see if it works. If not it sounds like you burnt up the motor. Or get one used and see if it works with that one. The only thing I would suggest is find out why it blew so you do not blow up another one. JMHO, Richard.

No offense taken in any way. In fact: Until the complete kit came available the JCI kit was where I was headed. That with the JTR headers. I think if you look closer at the CX trans mount it is in the tunnel and not below it. The JCI I would bet is lower as it has to bridge the floor, it has reliefs for the exhaust. AND Not having seen either in person it is hard to tell from pix. The Donor crapped out so still on the hunt. Working on floor repair and Bad Dog parts starts next week when it thaws out a little around here. We have a driveshaft shop in town and I have to have a SUBE flange anyway so the shaft would be custom anyway, it was in my 1000 misc which is probably not enough misc lol, just the DS and shipping and I am half way through it! There are no silly questions and anyone who does not take advice from someone who has already done it is doomed to fail. All good info.

I like the JCI stuff, the big seller for the CX is the exhaust. JTR sell headers as does JCI but then the exhaust has to be finished, which can be expensive the complete exhaust almost justifies the whole kit cost. In fact if I knew it was possible I would do the JCI engine mounts and he CX exhaust. Yes it is single exit but that keeps the cost down too, no new tank, no redo of the rear valance. Kind of have a budget on this one. Car was 500, donor 2500 (my cap), install kit CX is1600. Misc 1000. Trying to stay on the low end money wise. I am not delusional, I know it always cost more but I did a complete restoration so I know what that cost. It was just too good and rare to not restore. Here is the yellow one. The plan with this one is to do everything I can myself and keep the cost way down. R.

Me too. I like the idea of a complete kit, seems no one has it all. The CX is headers, exhaust all the way out, mounts for both engine and trans etc. Making the low alternator work may not be horrible, worse case just get the accessories from a truck to get both alt and AC high mounted. Or go aftermarket for them. No PS or air pump it can not be too bad. Should pick up the donor car this weekend. 02 Camaro. Subscribing. R

I have a really nice 240 (09070) that is all stock and too nice to cut up. But I got bored, so I bought another series one car (04798). I have had some time so been doing a bunch of research here and elsewhere. That being said, this is only opinion not fact. My plan is the JCI motor mounts, JTR headers (street car only) and cold air kit, CX trans mount as it stays in the tunnel which should help on clearance for exhaust. Bad dog rails and Zed floors. The car was a super cheap shell so long project coming. Had an LS1 in another project and loved it. JMHO, Richard.