tightywhitey185

Is there a link to Mccmaster Carr for those washers? If i remember someone on here was selling a kit? The part number on the OBX does say 10528 like the invoice so I think it is correct. Thanks again

This is what the ebay picture looked like. This is what I thought mine was going to look like.

I decided to buy An OBX of Ebay after reading threads about this diff. I have read about checking to make sure the gears are placed correctly etc. The center section I got looks different than the ones I have seen on discussions here. The ring gear seems to fit snugly. bolt patterns correct. looks like it takes the same bearings but haven't measured exactly yet. Spline count is correct and fits my axle input nicely. Did I recieve the correct helical?? I ordered it for my Z31 R200 open diff. If so should I still disassemble to check for correct gear orientation? Thanks here is what I got.....

It was running wellwhen it was carbureted before i switched over to throttle bodies.Im getting tach signal inside the car on the physical tach.Its just not syncing with megatune.It keeps saying error with tacho sync.It wont show rpm on the digital dash on tuner studio.

I have an early 260Z and am switching over to EFI running megasquirt 2 V3.57 fully assembled And I am using the megasqurt relay board..For right now I am running fuel ONLY.Everything is wired up and working except for my tach signal.I am running a shielded wire from my negative terminal on my coil like many wiring diagrams suggest to the correct spot on the MS relay board.In tuner studio it keeps telling me there is a sync issue and it just wont work.Ive searched and searched this forum with not a ton of info on fuel only set ups.I opened the ECU and every position that needs to be jumpered for fuel only looks correct?When configuring it in tuner studio i turned the tacho output on,output pin set to JS10?Is that correct?Then i went to ignition options set dizzy to fuel only.Would it be better to find a tach signal off the distributor somewhere?Most megasquirt fuel only diagrams state it needs a wire from the negative on the coil right to the relay board.Is it that simple?I cant figure it out.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A car you don't see or hear of every day.It's for sale Somewhat close to me.16000 is pricey though!Cool find, rare .Does anyone know about these cars? http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/4348373830.html

What year is the car?I could be wrong but the top one looks similar to an EGR relay.The bottom one could be a seatbelt interlock(if you have a 260Z)AnAC relay,Rear defogger relay,ETC.Read the Factory service manual.

Can anyone recommend a Set of DIY spark plug wires for L motor? I like the set MSD sells but I dont know if they would work properly or would be the correct type wire.For some reason the last two stock sets I have ordered from Napa or Advance Auto parts are not long enough Or they like to mismatch wires with different colored boots??Whatever..Was wanting a custom routed set anyway.Thanks.

Not to change the subject but will that wheel fit the Arizona Zcar wilwood brake upgrade?

Any updates?Just curious

Nice! let us know how it turns out.Im half tempted to ditch my old setup for something like this.

Josh Clason has been putting out these great vids.I hope they keep coming.

Thats interesting.Ill keep my eye on it and update.Thanks for the reply.

Ill do a little update here.Ive got about 500 miles on my AZC brake settup with the stock 74 MC and it seems like it is working great other then the pedal feel is slightly wimpy.I HAVE noticed that the fluid level in the stock MC has risen well above the max level in both front and rear reservoirs.I wander why that is? I bled the system properly from the get go and it was at the fill line for a long time till recentlty.Its actually way high wich scares me.Any ideas why this my be?Is this dangerous?

Sigh.Sorry about this.I tried to do this in a hurry via my cell phone.Im deleting this and doing a proper thread tonight.

Mind you I did this whole thread from my phone.

Ok so we have been over the ws option a billion timed but I myself la have settler on this.I have been able to ws almost the whole car with the pep boys kit.The part number is 3554. For the door jambs I am happy with this kit.I figured I'd try it on the ol hatch tonight to see what it looked like and I think it may be an option.her is what it looks like.I think it will take 120 bucks worth to get it done.door jambs and hatch.roughly 4 kits.

Is it? I cant quite tell for sure.

I saw this pretty red Z in this random ass video I was watching today and you can see it at around the 1:51 mark.Some 70s style skateboarding too.Kinda cool.

Wait wait.....So im running the willwood prop valve.I should totally remove the stock prop valve?

Sigh....yeah thats probably where Im goin.Even though ive bought and returned it twice at ther jegs retail store haha.Im calling this place first tomorrow.http://www.discountbrakes.com/basket.php?add_item_id=348262 Saw this company on ebay. Its Centric brakes and they claim to have them in stock.That and im going to pester dave at AZC tomorrow as well.

Without a doubt it works very well but the feel just isnt quite right.

It never goes to the floor and ive mashed it hard enough to violantly stop the car.It just feels mushy.Like my 87 celica with 300k on it.Just tired.No vacume leaks.It doesnt have a new car petal feal by any means.But not scary soft.The last 1/4 of the throw is sound.Its not what im use to.Anything before 1/4 throw feels like an asthmatic blowing through a straw.Sad really.then towards the end its stiff but not like i would expect but it stops the car hard for sure!It just seems like it should be nore consistant through its throw.Its weird .

The Stock MC feels ok For daily driving but It needs to feel more refined for auto x or any kind of racing.Ive been putting around town mostly lately to feel the system out.The stock MC will be fine for daily driving.