timh

Go Cyclones! I graduated in '93.

If his sideskirts were like mine, they were twisted about 15-20° from one end to the other. I wouldn't touch them, and I wouldn't pay a bodyman the many hours worth of labor it would take to make them work.

My entire Aero II kit was the same way when it was installed 3 years ago. Forget about returning the side skirts for replacements, they're all that way. I returned two sets before going with another side skirt. Unfortunately, I can't recall where they're from. They're not a perfect fit either, but I couldn't see a way to attach the "torqued" MSA sideskirts. I had to add material in some places and remove it from others to get the bumpers to fit.

If you hit a rabbit at 40mph, one week after getting your car out of paint jail (one year sentence, $3000 fine), it will result in stress fractures. Much more than a rabbit, it will break. If it's a daily driver, it's best to stay away from fiberglass if you can. jmo

.250" is removed from the diameter of the rotor. The washers are visible in one of the photos (bracket spacing) in my personal gallery. The washers are between the stock caliper mounting point on the strut/spindle, and the new caliper bracket. I measured out a handful of washers and sorted them by thickness with a caliper, made it handy to get the best spacing. I didn't grind the caliper mounting point flat. I believe to was already flat. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=166

I did it this past Spring, very happy with the results. The only difficulty for me was centering the caliper bracket over the rotor. I'll put some photos on my personal photo gallery. I have more if you need them. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=166 Tim

When I bought my Z, the door panels had a rectangular speaker grills from the 70's. I made sheetmetal panels to hide that hole and support the 6" Boston Rallye's and tweeter I currently have. See my personal gallery for a photo. Nothing is in the rear of the car, the bass is sufficient for my age (34) . http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=166 Tim

Chuck, I'm in OKC, where are you? Are you in the OKZCC? If you're nearby, my car's been finished for several years if you need any help. Tim

I used their TV made easy kit for 700r4. If every transmission company asked you to run through the pressure tests that they do, there would be very few problems/complaints with the gm700r4. Very helpful over the phone as well.

DREW, I emailed some photos of my same swap that may help. Post them if you can.

I bet that's a new quarter panel, and didn't have a cutout?

Classic automobile insurance. Hagarty doesn't like my wifes driving record. Is anyone familiar with Grundy?

to the gas peddle or the carb?

I think some amps have the 'hi/low' input as an option for stereos without RCA pre-outs. If I remember you hook the headunit's speaker output wires to the amp instead of RCA's. Less desirable setup.

I had mine dyno tuned with A/F for just under $200 here in Oklahoma City. Mine is carburated however. Probably not be a good comparison.

I doubt the wheels are out of balance if they're recently mounted. You might try tightening the steering rack at the bushings. I've seen trouble shooting threads for this, but can't remember if it was here or another z site. It's common on 1st gen Z's.

I'm not sure you'd want a shroud on that side of the radiator. It does run backwards though, don't know if it will damage the motor over time.

Just finished hooking up my 700r4 lockup. I used the stock brakelight switch located above the brake pedal to activate a relay with the wire that's hot when the brake is applied. The relay is a SPDT, so the 12V that goes to the lockup is is the NC position and you can run your tailights from the other position, or just leave the tailight wire hooked up to the brakelight switch. May be overkill, but I had the relay sitting around. GM switches are available that do the same thing. The 12v goes to the A terminal on the tranny. D is ground. The TCC solenoid that is being activated by this 12V can also be self-grounding, varies. Just hooking up 12v to activate the lockup probably isn't the best solution. If there isn't at least a switch to turn it off, the lockup will likely kill the engine as if it were a standard tranny without the clutch. There's a 4th gear pressure switch inside the tranny that controls the grounding of the solenoid, I would use it at a minimum. I used the B&M lockup control, it's the most expensive option for kits. When I initially bought it this website didn't exist, and I didn't have internet access anyway. Keep searching the web, several sites have diagrams and better explanations that mine.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml

What's it doing or not doing? I may have the installation instructions at home, i'll have to look.

I've never been able to get my '91 700r4 to lockup. I'm using the B&M lockup control. It provides 12v to the TCC solenoid after a pre-set speed. The 'D' wire is grounded to the transmission pan. How can I test the solenoid? How do I know if my torque convertor is bad? Can I apply 12v to the 'D' wire and bypass the 4th gear switch? Tim

I got my booster off without having to unhook the lines. Just be careful and watch for leaks. I keep soapy water near by. I think the check valve is there to prevent manifold gases from backing into the booster, as well as holding the vacuum.

You have my sympathy. I had the same problem, so I guess you have my empathy too. If they're as bad as the two sets I returned to MSA, forget about the tape. I eventually gave up on the side skirts, the guy that did my bodywork is a perfectionist and wouldn't install them if they were going to be under that much torsion. I ended up with some urethane side skirts. They're not as custom looking, but they are much easier than the "easily installed and painted" fiberglass MSA skirts. Hope the heat trick works for you.

Sorry, it's actually called the master vac check valve. On a 280z it's mounted on a bracket on the fire wall just above and right of the master vac and is inline with the vacuum line going from the manifold to the master vac. It should hold a vacuum on one side and flow air through the other. I assume a ZX has something similar. If you have a manual, the tests for the brake booster are easy to do if you have a vacuum gage and can cobble up a t-fitting to fit the vacuum lines.

I put a new (reman.) brake booster on recently and I still get an increase of about 100 rpm when I pump the brakes. Don't know. Might check the back flow valve first.