timh

Well here's what I have now. Under hard braking there's fuel sloshing up through the jets and out of the secondary booster (venturi). According to Holley's tech line, that's the first place fuel will slosh through, then it will come up through the vent tube if there's enough of a problem. I never did find fuel in the crossover tube (vent to vent) that I tried earlier, because it never made it that far. I eliminated the problem during braking by lowering the secondary float 1/4 turn then test driving. I ended up lowering it 1 full turn clockwise before it eliminated the stall. Now I have an intermittant off-the-line stumble, which will be easier to fix. Other than that, I didn't get any indication that the secondary bowl was running out of fuel, so I may be on to the solution to my particular problem. How to determine this is the same problem you're having: Test drive the car around the block with the the air cleaner off. Brake hard forcing the stumble, shut the car off and quickly and look at the secondaries if you're having the same problem fuel will still be wet on the throttle plates and the center of the venturi most likely. If the vent tube above the secondaries is also wet, the fuel is getting that much farther. I'm not sure how low my float is right now but it's one full turn lower that the traditional "trickling out" setting point. It's kind of hot to be working on a carb in Oklahoma, but I hope to find out more asap. Tim

Here's an interesting thought on the topic. http://realbig.com/detomaso/1998-04/1138.html I run a 6.5, when I get time I'll check and see how far my vacuum drops when braking. This sounds promising.

Terry, Increasing the float level on the primary side is what I was planning to do tonight. After that I'm gonna spend the $20 and get the jet extension kit from Holley (#116-10). I'll let you know how that works. By the by, I bought some ZX calipers from you earlier in the year, finally did the 300/280zx vented disc conversion last month. Seems to be working well. I've been hitting the brakes a lot lately trying to fix this problem. Tim

Tuesday night I bypassed the pressure switch for the fuel pump, still wants to die. There isn't a change in oil pressure, at least according to my stock oil pressure guage, which may not be resposive enough to give an indication(?). Put with the pressure switch out of the loop, it shouldn't be dieing from low oil pressure. Last night I did the vent tube to vent tube trick on the holley. It's supposed to prevent fuel from sloshing out of the vent tubes when braking hard. No change. Then I lowered the fuel/float on the secodary by 1/4 turn of the adjustment nut. No change. Then I lowered the fuel pressure from 8 to 6. No change. Then I hung a rope from the rafter of my garage and choked the s.o.b. The car was dyno-tuned 3 weeks ago with A/F monitor, so if the new carter fuel pump was loosing pressure, it should have shown up. Correct? Any suggestions?

I've had the holley blue, red and the carter in my Z. Each one was carefully isolated with grommets, rubber fuel line, etc. In my experience, the Red was overall the quietest, followed by the Carter, which starts out loud, but gets better after running for a while.

Spoke with MWM. The guy there was nice enough to measure their 15120 pan. It's 7 1/4" sump depth, the sump is 10 1/2" wide and sticks out approximately 2 1/2" from the side of the pan. I'll be crawling under the car tonight to check that. Maybe. It's going to be 100° this afternoon.

Grumpyvette, I have the catalog, in fact that's where I bought my cam. I grew up in the Ames, IA area, went to ISU too. None of their pans are dimensioned. I can figure out the Kevko's from other sites. Kevko told me that for around $250 they would modify a 1091 to make it a 7" sump and would talk about other modifications. Are these circle track pans going to hold up to Road Racing? If I buy the Midwest Motorsports 7qt claimer and add a milidon windage screen will it be suitable for Road Racing? My guess is I'll have to clearance the kickout on that pan for my exhaust which comes almost straight down from Hooker block huggers. Don't know for sure without some dimensions, so I'll call them. Any other thoughts, mine are too mixed up right now.

How many of you have made the switch from a stock oil pan to a 7-8 quart oil, had block huggers (didn't redo the exhaust as a result of the new oil pan)? Or just a better built (windage, trap doors, scrapers, etc) stock looking pan. I really don't want to redo the exhaust if I don't have to. There's been a lot of oil pan discussion, but most of it pertains to those who are still building there cars and don't have the exhaust completed. Any comments are welcome. I've read every oil pan post made since 2000. For those of you that have been involved in the hunt for acceptable Road Race / Drag Race pans, what has worked on finished cars? Ideally I'm looking for a 7" sump 7 quart pan that won't interfere with my exhaust, but still has enough oil control for the occasional road race (Hallett) and drag race. Thanks, Tim

I'm still running the stock oil pressure gauge. Is it sensitive enough to show a dip in pressure if I just brake hard enough to make it stumble? Thanks for all the input!

Thanks. My 750dp already has the fuel bowl vent baffles. Think it'd be worth trying the custom application mentioned?

MY CAR: 1975 280Z, 355ci sbc, mild cam 272 adv. dur., new brake booster, good M/C, new 750dp (float level checked over and over, twice by trusted mechanic). Stock style chrome oil pan with stock baffles, new high volume oilpump. Carter fuel pump, holley regulator, JTR recommended oil pressure/fuel pump shut off. Any ideas why it stumbles and wants to die under moderate to hard braking and cornering? It did the same thing with a 600 edelbrock.

try alangrovecomponents.com I used one of there driver's side brackets for my sanden compressor.

I installed the Civic (any civic between '87-'91) blower last night. It doesn't just slide right in, took about 6 dremel cutting wheels and 30 minutes to open the diameter of the housing enough to fit the larger diameter squirrel cage. After that it was easy. IMO it's a moderate improvement over the 280z blower, and would be a vast improvement over the 240z blower. One thing that I noticed while I had the glove box liner out was the large gap (up to 1/2") between the center vent section and the evap box, where the foam seal was missing. I replaced that and several other foam seals on the ducts. The down side is, my glove box is no longer a make-shift refrigerator. Take a look at these items when you tear in to your system. Now I have to figure out what I did to make my A/C fuse blow and my radiator fan stop working. sux

That's funny, it's from my home town. I recognize the street. You'd have to be a bit "touched" in the head to plop a chunk of fiberglass on top of a jet engine, throw in some seats, and call it a car.

auto air of oklahoma replaced mine 2 years ago. They'd be a parts source for you. http://www.autoairofoklahoma.com

Does the CRX blower work well compared to a 240 blower, or a 280 blower, or both? I think Pete's was from an LTD.

good link on wraps heat shield material, etc. http://www.speedzone24-7.com/faq.htm

How 'bout "The Car". Possessed killer car terrorizes small town. Not the best, but very cheesy.

I used the factory system, the flexible lines to the sanden compressor had to be fabricated, can't remember what it ended up costing. I'll try to get you some photos.

I used Alan Grove Component's #113L "low profile" AC bracket. It sets the compressor close to the shock tower on my 75, but slightly shorter belt would fix that. I can email you photos if you need them, may take a few days. Tim

I've ran the Holley Blue, Holley Red and Carter. The Holley Blue started shutting down after the first year or so, so I replaced it with a Red. The Carter I have now is actually as noisy as the Holley Blue in my opinion. The Holley Red was the quietest of the bunch for me. All of these pumps are well proven. Probably not much help huh?

I used it for the first 2-3 years I had to trim small areas around the upper and lower hoses, as well as the cooler lines. It fits well and look good. I ended up going with the taurus fan when I put the AC back on. I doubt you'll find a new one, but mine seemed to clean up quite well with a vinyl protectant. Cost was $7.50 from a junkyard.

Did any of you choose to NOT relocate the front brakelines through the fender as JTR recommends? Had any problems?

I put it in the mail at work, it should have gone out this morning. Tim

Every post I've read say's the rotor needs to be turn down by ABOUT 0.25". Does anyone know the exact amount that needs to be removed, or a finished diameter? Thanks.