timh

That's what I was wondering. Thanks much! Tim

I'm doing the front vented 84'ZX rotor / Toyota 4x4 wide caliper conversion. Do I order Stainless Steel lines for my 75' 280Z or does the Toyota caliper need a fitting adapter or another brakeline all together? Thanks, Tim

I made an imprint, if you want to give me your address I can mail it to you. Or I could reduce it on the copier and fax you the drawing.

I'm waiting for an excuse to get mine coated. I've been meaning to for 2 years. If no one else bites, let me know and I'll have my excuse. They are Hooker Block Hugger's for SBC.

Just an opinion from a slightly elder (33) man. You'll always remember the "one", but she'd soon be replaced in your memory if your current sweety and newborn were suddenly out of the picture. Most of us have someone we think about years later, but it's an idealized person that has moved on as well. Pass on the "closure" theory, it'd just bring up old feelings, just move on. "Love the One Your With" - Luther Vandross

I wanted a WC t-5, but couldn't find one. That was 5 years ago, and it won't get easier. My '75 is running about 300hp with a stock '92 700R4 out of a police cruiser. When drag racing, it's a mighty long way from 2nd to 3rd gear on the 700R4, so if you intend to just stick in an auto without modifying it, I'd find a 2004R in good condition. Of course they may be getting hard to find too.

I put new rack bushings on my '75 when I did the conversion three years ago, didn't help the shake. I re-tightened them this year and it eliminated 90% of my steering wheel shake.

I have the camaro radiator if someone wants to buy it. I bought it from JTR about 3 years ago. $75 plus shipping. Tim

I have the JTR recommended camaro radiator, bought it new from JTR 2 years ago. Make me an offer if interested.

Denny411, I mispoke, I bought the ABS cheapo's from VB and sent them back the same day. What I ended up with are the flexible urethane skirts. When I bought them they were available from JCR and Motorsport for around $200. They're not a perfect fit either, about an inch short. They definitely install easier. Tim

My aeroII kit was a PITA to fit up. The side skirts were both twisted so bad I ended up sending them in for an exchange. The second set were just as bad. I ended up using side skirts purchased from Victoria British. The rear skirt needed a lot of trial and error to make it fit perfectly.

My '75 has the rear window defrost, flasher and a plastic "double blank" on the right side of the console. My antenna switch is mounted under the dash between the steering column and the console. I wish I knew what the blank was for.

If you're working toward a stable 180-190° without it creaping up, the 1.25" two row may provide that potential. I have a milder setup, about 275-300 hp, big iron heads, A/C with stock condensor mounted in stock location, small B&M 16000 gvw tranny cooler mounted just below the condensor, taurus fan, stock water pump. I just switched from a Camaro to the double 1" and a 1 quart goza recirculating catch can. My initial timing is now 15°. I'm currently experience a rise to about 205-210° on the highway with air on in 98° heat. I haven't had time to readjusted my mechanical advance, vacuum advance or stuffed around the radiator for improved flow. I won't need the extra buffer the 1.25" radiator likely provides, but the company that sold me my Howe seemed to have more experience with typical hot rods, and was pointing me in the 1.25" direction. All setups are not the same, if you can afford it, go big. This is just an opinion from a guy working out the same problems, just a few weeks ahead and a few bucks lighter.

Even an nice aluminum radiator isn't enough with A/C and your timing being off. I just learned that lesson last week. Installed a Howe aluminum radiator (have a nice camaro radiator for sale!) and still ran up around 210-215 with the air on. Finally invested in a "dial-advance" timing light (cheap lights are a waste) and up'ed my initial up to 15°. That's gotten me to about 195° at 75mph in 95° Oklahoma heat. I'll probably go a few more degrees advance to see what it does.

Lone, Mounting it at the c-channel would have saved me a lot of fab time, and inhalation of burning rubber, from cutting tank mounts with a dremel. Just wish i'd seen your reply earlier. Thanks, Tim

My Camaro radiator is for sale on page 2 of "buy/sell/trade". It's not cooling well enough with A/C in Oklahoma. I'm in the process of installing the 24x19 Howe unit. By the way I think the instructions mentioned that you're supposed to mount the Howe radiator at the tanks only. I'd have to double check that to be sure.

I ended up getting the Dynomax Super Turbo, 3" center in/offset out with a 3" internal tube (#17793). The case is 16" long and it's 23" from teat to teat (heh). Thanks for the input.

My searches have only came up with maximum dimensions for muffler length on a 280ZX. How long of a Dynomax Super Turbo can I fit on a 75' 280Z in the stock location. I'll be running 3" from a flowmaster "Y" collector. Thanks, Tim

There seems to be a few companies selling the recirculating coolant overflow cans, but most are just decribed as "overflow cans" or "catch cans". The recirculating cans are almost always aluminum and at least $75. Is this necessary for a Howe or Griffin 24X19, or any other "pressurized system"? I assume the regular overflow can only collect coolant (NHRA rule), and won't hold the pressure/vacuum to return the coolant back to the radiator(?). Any comment before I spend $85? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply, the Goza 1 pint is the one I was going to go with, I'll try finding their website and price the 1 quart. Thanks again. Tim

The bottom of the sump portion of the pan is pretty much entirely dented in. It's taken several hits over the last couple of years, but I can't figure out out it ended up like it is. Oil pressure seems fine (as fine as the stock sending unit will allow). It is unfortunately a Mr. Gasket chrome pan, not expensive, but not the cheapest. If I have to replace it, I'll definitely look at the shielded pan. Thanks for the input.

I bought mine from MSA or Victoria British, can't remember. I think they are a very good copy of the original, and a good diy project. There have been many different seat swaps, do a search if you haven't already.

I just noticed yesterday that my chrome oilpan (sbc) is dented in about 1/4" over the entire bottom surface of the sump. How much room is there typically between the pan and stock pump pickup? I really don't feel like pulling it! Wish I knew what I hit.

I have a sanden compressor and Alan Grove low profile compressor bracket mounted on the driver's side head. The same bracket for the passsenger side probably won't have enough room. I have the flexible lines, they look ok. The rest of the system is stock factory 280z air for the most part.

Go to Painless Wiring's website. Somewhere in their tech articles is a nice diagram and instructions for installing a fuelpump or electric fan relay.