stagefumer11

thanks for the insite. i always like detaild reasions. lol... thanks

so much detail So using the same style setup mazda use on their GTX famila it wouldnt work in principal with the L28et ect. ? Can the casing of the afm not be able to handle any psi ?

Is it possible to put the Factory L motor AFM inbetween the intecooler and turbo ? aka blowthru setup ? This would free up the turbo side and possibly take the afm out of a restriction setup ?

sorry dude.... just a bad time with the R30 atm.

comon dude. we get it!!!

is a KHR30JFT coupe. just a more racey spec R30 coupe, now power stering windows ect. Abh well the gasket has gone well. apart fomr i didnt shave the head. its blowing alot of steem atm. And so im not driving it. Have to take the head off again. This was concluded after talking to a few mechanics, The font set of head bolts had less torque which mean's the head has over heater a bit and expanded alot. and contracted. This changes the torque on the bolts . So its warped needs a grind back. this does explain they large amounts of steam

ive just been doing some looking around and noticed every l20et that i can find uses a e31 Part numberd cam. Now mine uses a e30 spec cam. Can anyone inligten me into any specs between these two cam shafts?

Here is some intresting information. Got the head off today. No visiable markings on the head gakset. No blow outs ect. Piston number 1. Full of water. (to the top of the dish) What else could be the problem. We also came across that the front set of head bolts were torqued alot less that the rear; Which makes me think that it wasnt done the best last time. Also there seamed to be excess crap on the block. Which looked old compared to the newish head gasket on it. SO maybe the last head gasket job on this motor wasnt done right ( it did cost me 1200bucks tho) Or could there be another problem with water getting into the number one piston ? Head problems ?

Id love to go the l28 route. but the cost isnt worth it. $750 seems to be the normal price for a Early l28e these days. Swapping over can be done but needs to be certed wich is another 350 on top of the motor purchase. IF i work out the pro's and con's A rb20det would be a more cost effective swap. (i dont want to loose the L motor tho)

Im at the point of needing to do another head gasket. (lucky for me) The idea of shaving the head has come into play so i can bring the compression up. Now this is a l20et which is 7:3 Compression? Correct me if im wrong. Now my goal is to get it in to the low 8's which will help with the lack of low end torque. What would be the required amount to take off the head that doesnt require me to shim... ect the cam towers ect ?

Its your main idle controll valve feed. Cold start. and throttle dampener. You do need it. unless you tweak the TB open a little. (not the best idea)

Wellington

They are the same

Is it possible with a L20et With a 05L head, To swap to another head. e.g say a n42 since it has larger valves?

You will find the 05l Head is off the l20et out of a R30 skyline (like mine) and the nissan peroard. made 145hp stock..... I dont recomend this head. if i could change mine i would in a heart beat

Isnt it the fact that from factory they are running low amounts of boost which isnt enough to cause backspool?. My l20et came with a system that worked like a bov. I say if you going to be winding the boost up in anyway, get a BOV. Plumb the retun back into the intake. And woolaaaa.

I have the same problem. Lag. Im using a Rb20det turbo on my l20et with a FMIc and 2" piping, 2.5 Exhasut. And in any gear is lags. im onl running 11psi. Nearly fully advance timing also

thanks for the replys. Well gone thru it all and it looks like the alternator was at fault so its been replaced. The fpr is out of a rb25det and is still all good. I susepect my fuel pump in the early days was fauly. Was a bugger as it was rated to 600hp

HO god sexy DR30.............. only if i could find a DR iron mask front end to fit onto my HR30 coupe. ohhh yeah ./

Long story.. lets hope i type this right 4 weeks ago i noticed after going w.o.t in 2nd gear that my skyline cut out completly. It was quite a hard cut, The symptoms of no spark feeling. Now any session of hard driving it will always stutter and fall flat on its ***. It didnt really come to this untill 2 weeks after the cut out happend. Last week. All turned to sh!t. Any full thorrtle eccel will fall the motor into stalling or falling flat on its ***. looking at my A/f guage it was going MEGA Lean. Which lead me to think my fuel pump was stuffed. Note this pump installed is a Euro bosh unit rated to 600hp. (so i wasnt to happy). I replaced the fuel pump. this is where i noticed something, The pickup feed from the tank when removoing the pump flowed nicely for about 10 seconds then slowly dribbled to a stop, I was thinking this was a "vacume" in the tank doing so. (maybe not ?) Installed my walbro440 unit. Fired the motor over. It took over 5 mins of cranking to get anything. Then as a random switch going on, It fired up like normal. Drove it all around that night caning the *** off it. And no problems. Next day....... Same problem was back. ""crys" Full throttle = stumbles, ect yada yada. Noting the A/f guage didnt have a lean spot in boost. But was dropping off guage. Same thing again ?. Checked my voltage at the fuel pump, 11.2 volts. Ok thats not right. Voltage at battery 11.2. Rev the motor 10.5. Load the who system up. 9.2v. Well you can see where this is going. My alternator is poked. After replacing my alternator (only one year old brand new) and my fuel filter, just un case. I was getting a nice 13.8volts everywhere. Even loading it all up heavly. Thank god. Car ran great. Smooth torquey. couldnt complain; Apart from the slipping clutch. LOL. Took the old girl to work. later in the day i droped something off at one of out trade guys garrage, the car was sitting idleing for around 5 mins, Hoped in drove off. And bam LEAN LEAN LEAN on wof. stumbles falls on it ***. you name it again. As you can see im getting pissed off. Unpluged and pluged back in the ecu. Still the same. Drove it 10k back to work. Still running like crap in boost. Turned the corner on the street at work. Nailed it. And bam. Back to Normal. NO lean. ?!?!?!?!!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?! End of the day. driving home, Oh wait Lean was back again. after 15 mins of 100kmph driving, it came right. I am confused...... Is that fuel pickup blocked. ? Im not really keen on droping the tank out. Anything else that can cause this random Leaning out issue ?. I havnt done anything diffrent on the vehical to make it do this. Timing ect. Just one day it went like a switch. For a few weeks it didnt show up leaning out problems, then showed the signs. Eitherway, Help ? ideas ? Im completly flat broke for a week. so something of a cheep fix Edit, Btw. This is in a 85 HR30 Skyline coupe. L20et with rb20 turbo, FMIC. ect.....

Removing the cover helps keep the temps down around the coil packs. Alot of them are getting old and the factory ones are only designed to last around 120,000k. Then the heat and age gets to them. All that causes missing under load. If you having problems with weird running ect. Check your crank angle sensor, and your idle controll unit. Sits are the back of the intake manifold.

the black smoke was for around a week ago. Really at the beginning of eveything to start happening. Swapping the afms was just checking to see if they were the problem . IT was the same with the current one that was in it... I replaced the fuel pump. And it ran great. Simply stunning. the next day, Back to crap again But it looks like it is a alternator problem. Its anoying as my alternator is my 3rd one. This one was brandnew. only 1 year ond. Ive got a 90a Rb alternator to go on. Just need to swap the pullys over.

doesnt look like fuel now. checked my loading voltage. When running 11.2 volts !!!!!!!!!!. Load the whole system up. Sounds (2 amps ect ) fan headlights. dropes to 10.0volts then proceds to slowly drop down. This alternator is only a year old

oh hell. haha there goes my daily driver

OK... ill rephrase things and sum up what ive done. After comming to the judgement my Fuel pump was stuffed. Replaced it wit ha walbro 450hp version. And she ran great last night. Untill this morning yet again underload anything past 5psi it just stumbels and dies badly. 1st gear is a joke. What i noticed was. when removing my old fuel pump. The fuel feed didnt flow to well. and after 5 seconds stoped. Didnt flow again, Even removing the fuel cap to see if that was a problem.... how are fuel pickups ment to flow. ?