vashonz

The amf is right below the air filter, used a 180° mandrel bend to connect it together. This is what the local Z mechanic recomended. Long term i'd like to relocate it out front once i get an intercooler. Short term ill probably just make a heat shield (gonna hafta make a run to boeing surplus. Its a great place, cheap aluminum, honeycomb(not the cereal), high density foam, tools ect. pretty much anything boeing ever used.)

I'm trying to figure out what these 3 vacume lines connect to. http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/question.jpg Any help would be appreciated. ps, I already did a search and didnt find any revelant results

I am in the final stages of getting this on the road (thanks to doug at fairlady motors for doing the wiring) and thought I'd share a couple quick photos. (keep in mind that the car still needs a good wash) Rear: http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0058.JPG Front (in the process of aligning the hood): http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0060.JPG Side: http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0066.JPG Engine 1: http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0062.JPG Engine 2: http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0063.JPG Engine 3: http://www.viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/DSCN0064.JPG

I simply took the stock fittings with me to the oil filter place (Williams Oil Filter Service, in tacoma wa). I told them where the lines were going to be run and how long to make them, they reused the stock fittings (the don' cary metric ones) and used new tubing. Total cost to me was $40, that was for steel braided line with a cloth like covering (think OEM 240 tubes), it looks great(very stock). The only thing to be careful of is of how long the lines are made, and how the fittings are positioned, the new lines don't twist at all. I can provide photos once I get back (woo, a weekend at laguna seca, then on to skip barber)

Here is the link for anyone interested: http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/81ecuharness.jpeg.jpg search terms: turbo swap ecu diagram 81 280zx 240z wiring

If you can email it to me, I can host it for everyone. Any file format is fine, size is not a problem, once I get it i can throw up a link. Thanks, Chris Charron PS chris@viewyachts.com

If you can email it to me, I can host it for everyone. Any file format is fine, size is not a problem, once I get it i can throw up a link. Thanks, Chris Charron PS chris@viewyachts.com

I'm trying to finish the swap into my 240z this weekend and am looking for a wiring diagram for the engine. I already did a search, found out that someone emailed it to someone else. It would be much appreciated if someone could send a copy my way. Already checked out the local library, they had at least 2 copies of the original factory service manual for my 240z (along with the 30 page supplement), but couldnt find anything for the 280zx. Thanks, http://mailto:chris@viewyachts.com

Solidworks is pretty good, I like SolidEdge best. I've only played around with I.D.E.A.S. a little, but it worked pretty well. The big problem with most of those is the price (a couple grand per seat is considered cheap). If you're on a budget you might check out Alias Wavefront's Studio (cad accurate design program), or Maya (more artistic focus). Both are very powerful. Studio was used for the ferrari 360 modena, Maya for just about every movie since toy story. Best of all is that they can be had for free (as long as you don't try to sell anything designed in it, and don't mind working with a watermark on the screen). http://www.aliaswavefront.com

Monterey Historics are awesome (right around 19-20th of august). Last year I camped on turn 6, could see the track from the picnic table. Theres also a really impressive aquarium there, considered to be one of the better ones in the world.

I've been working with uhmw at work recently. Its a pretty neat material, Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic, very slippery, abrasion resistant, easily machinable (I was using a table saw to cut it), does not melt easily (makes molding it very difficult). My thoughts we to use it for TB spacers rather than the Lexan ones that ive seen, I think it would be more heat resistant (is that an issue?) (we melt lexan with a blow dryer to make tool guards). If anyone has a blueprint for a spacer, send it over, we have a cnc bed mill I can use to make one. I would like to hear other suggestions for what it could be used for.

a buddy of mine is an electrical engineer at Kettering University and decided to build a megasquirt. I sent this post to him and this is what he said "I already built them, my stimulator board is using jury ridged speaker Pots wihich are at radioshack, battery packs are at radioshack (just not on digi-key) and 2N2222A trans where replaced by PN2222A which is just a different shape" "plus I have a bunch of old 2N2222A trans from school" "My stim board is having problems with the LEDs and that's it" If anyone wants to talk to him further about this, I can get his AIM screen name to you, just PM me.

C6 corvette top model is supposed to have 500 hp, when i heard about it GM was already at ~450 and going for more, that was in december. I heard that at a talk on the history of the corvette, given by Joe Speilman (i think). Bob Lutz (gm product czar) said the same thing a few weeks later when he gave his talk. Oh, and if you're looking at a GTO, wait a year, theyre gonna come out with a model that has 405hp. (This from Lutz also). And on the topic of direct acting valves, gm has a system that works. The only problem is that it takes more power than the engine produces (or uses more power than the difference makes). That i learned because I was talking about engine technology with a friend who has been working at GM research.

New '71 240z, the previous owner decided to install carbs from a '73 (but it does have an e31), since I have an extra set from one of my '72's I swap those (along with header and 2.5 in exhaust) onto the '71, keeping the intake from the '73. Now when I go to start the car it starts great, but immediately idles at 3000rpm. Runs great at 3k, revs instantly to 5000 or 6000. But, i dont want it to idle at 3k the only way to get it lower is to force the throttle linkage closed (much harder than what the springs do), or put my hand over the front carb. any thoughts? I really wanna drive the car with the better carbs on it. p.s. I did read the topic below http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17847 but his car starts a 1000rpm then goes up to 1400rpm. Could I have a more extreme version of his problem?

You might check out Art Morrison Enterprises down in fife. http://www.artmorrison.com/