vashonz

I got my 1 piece fully fiberglass for $450, but i also got the rest of the car thown into the deal.

Some diesels in boats are designed to run backwards, it keeps them from having to use a reverse gear set.

http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/icmounted.JPG I had more pics, but shooting with a real camera (no flash), and in the dark makes it kinda hard. If you need more i can get more. I have the photos of scotties install on my other computer, but it got a nasty trojan so im not using it till i can fix it properly. I had to cut out the center lower support, but that was only because I have a 240z, the 280z lower front crossmember has a dip in it. I used 4 aluminum strips bent around as supports. As the IC sits now it is in front of the stock 280zxt oil cooler. The driverside is slightly further forward, and the entire unit is offset towards the passenger side. I used sections of pvc pipe to help line up the passenger side of the ic with the hole in the radiator support. It hasn't been plumbed yet, but the passengerside should be easy, while the driverside I'm should be able to use two tight 90* sections of tubing.

I have a set that uses one fastener at the leading edge, besides that it has 2 plastic prongs that insert into where the headlight adajustment scews are.

I'm in the process of doing this. I took the entire dash out, it was really easy. I got a new core from a local radiator shop(ordered it fri @9:30, got it fri@1:40), it was $70, but the core(not the end tanks) was 1/8" too big. I brought it back this morning, they found another from the same place they got this one from. Instead I returned this one. Went to another place picked up one that was the right size, had a small problem with the shape of the end tank, but fixed that with a small hammer.

"a born-again President who was almost elected" "Attorney General John Ashcroft, and all other closeted scat fetishists" This article is funny.

I've heard that the oversteer problem can be corrected by installing a decent set of front shocks. This prevents excessive weight transfer to the front and the resulting oversteer. You might also check out one of the "driver education" schools like Skip Barber. I did that last summer and it was a blast, I'm much more confient(not reckless) about driving, knowing how to handle/control oversteer is nice. Also, its a ton of fun, the my favorite part was actually the trucks, going round and round on the skid pad.

I'm using the stock tank and fuel lines. I have the stock pump from the turbo donor car. This works fine, havn't had a problem with fuel starvation, just gotta keep it above .25 tank.

Zip Tie. It's not as pretty as alot of them, but it works.

Running the intercooler w/o any other upgrades will not have any harmful effect on the motor. The other installer shop shouldnt be pissed, no reason why the would be. As far as they know youre simply doing this one step at a time, and have had the ic on there for years. Also, the stuff you say Avalon Racing is going to install is completely seperate from the ic install, either could be done independly of the other. As for the pop off valve, it looks like this http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/9803/question.jpg its hte big thing in middle.

A friend of my dad is going to have his shop help me fab the plumbing for my intercooler, and maybe exhaust. A little background first: They manufacture aluminum boats that exceed military and CG standards, so they know how to weld aluminum and stainless. This is the plasma cutter they use. The only thing they don't have is a mandrel bender. I am trying to figure out what to do about the bends. Options: #1. pie cut the bends. Inexpensive. Looks different, flows better than crush bent. I saw the post eariler by #2 Buy stainless or aluminum bends. Looks smooth, easier to fab(I'm not going to be doing the welding). Big problem is that these cost more than I want to spend (Budget was going to be $0, but I gotta get an electric fan, o2 sensor bung, and a muffler.) #3 Buy tubing, have it bent, looks nicer and is cheaper. The problem is finding someone around here with a mandrel bending machine. Things to keep in mind. This is going to be tig welded by pros. Straight tubing can be had cheap, I visited an industrial surplus place today, Aluminum tubing was $3 per pound, Stainless was $2 per pound. I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible on this project. Finally any suggestions/opinions on whether to use stainless steel or aluminum for the intake maniforld. Right now I'm split between the two, one looks really nice and has the ooh, ahh, factor; the other is lighter and more common.

You might check out an IHI rx6, supports 3bar(constantly), 600hp/turbo, about the same spool characteristics than my t3. Honda used them on their F1 engines. I was kinda suprised when I saw a couple of them last week, they're tiny, seem much smaller than the t3 found on the zcars.

Check out a cat from a 280zxt, thats what was I was going to use on my 240z, except that I cut up the flanges on the cat before I was told I should use it.

I bought one of these this morning after talking to ScottieMIz about them. He used both the starion one and the volvo one and said the volvo one was better. Yes they do have plastic end tanks, they look like theyre on there pretty good so as long as youre not running 18psi you should be fine. I bought mine for $60, incase your helmet is worth more than that.

I think he meant les schwab, not shucks. Hey Tim, i went to and talked to doug today, he said its really easy, you just need a pickle fork, ive got one; and you dont need to remove the strut or anything, just the steering arm. Either you can borrow it, or you can come over to do the work at my house again.

My car doesnt have one and runs fine.

The tool and die shop I work for recently bought a powdercoating setup, I get free use of it and only have to supply my own powder. I have a couple extra sets of suspension sitting around and am going to sandblast and powdercoat one of the extra sets and possibly do a coilover setup at the same time. My questions were: 1. Should I leave the bushing surfaces as clean metal? Will powdercoating this area cause the suspension bushings (planning on poly) to bind? 2. The suspension mating surfaces, should they be left bare? Will coating them throw stuff out of alignment? 3. Suggestions on colors? Right now im thinking dark grey, or dark blue. I want it to make oil/bad stuff visible, but not be too flashy.

You might try first casting it in aluminum, in tacoma theres a place that will do custom casting, I know they make turbo housings for one of the local shops. http://www.creativecastingco.com/. I got a quote from them on casting a window striker part(small simple part), and it was 2000-3000 for a sand mold (this would be set up to make thousands), and 15k-20k for a die cast mold. If they do lost foam casting it might make it alot easier. If you need an L-series engine to help design it, ive got a couple you can use.

I recently (last 2 days) had the same problem. Was running like crap, wouldnt rev past 4000, asked local z guy about it, he said either injector problem, bad connection on ecu, or a bad dist/cas. On the way home it got to the point where it wouldn't go past ~2500, boost was very erratic. Cleaned all the connectors(CRC brakecleen), blew them out with air, now the car doesnt run at all. All Spark Plugs are white, way too clean. No spark to cylinders, spark to cap only after I go from start to run position. Replace distributor (I had an extra one, lucky me), use the same cap, same wires: runs great now, small problem starting off, but i think thats due to high fuel pressure. Tomorrow after work I'll check the plugs again(I drove it alot, hard, today) if its running better ill be sure to see. Only problems are that as soon as I started the car, the tach died. And today the fan clutch froze up(makes things loud). Yay for parts cars.

I'm 19 and have just finished a turbo swap into my '71. I have been working at a paid internship, which really helped to give me enough money to continue to make progress on my project. I have done almost everything myself (my dad does help out a little. eg, lifting trans over front cross member, holding engine while I push the trans on). What has really helped financially is just doing 1 thing at a time, and not going totally overboard with everything, I went with tokico springs and illuminas rather than a full coilover setup. For the engine swap I currently have an L28et installed and running. I had upgrades planned, but I need to start helping pay for stuff at home (the economy sucks, and work has been slow for my dad), so right now its just gonna stay the same. Until I get enough extra money I'll just drive it as it is, even though it isn't the fastest or most upgraded Z out there, I can still drive it everyday.

What are a pirate favorite body parts? ARRRRMMS and BOOOTY A couple friends of mine came up with a ton of these one night

A friend of mine has one, its a pretty nice little car, much smaller than my 240z, but I still fit (passenger seat, I havn't driven it) and I'm 6'4". It handles pretty good, but the engine is kinda anemic. Another friend of mine is going to look at another one later this week (maybe today), if he gets it it should make for some intersting crusing: 2 opel gt's and one yellow 240zt.

I used the stock fuel lines, and the car runs fine. I did not use the damper, but the local z mechanic said that the way I have it set up is fine. The only fuel related problem I've had was a clogged return line (the fuel pressure was high, and the FPR did not have any effect on fuel pressure) I fixed this by running a new line along the same path as the stock one.

This is the tag that was on my extra ecu. http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/wireecu/DSCN0077.JPG It was from an '81 turbo, it works (I checked it). The later distributor has a wire coming out of it and is much larger than the '81 unit. The '81 is essentially a shaft connected to the rotor arm, no timing unit, no electronics.

You might also check out this site http://www.rinkya.com/. I don't have any experience with them, but it looks interesting.