vashonz

I don't know about the NA FPR. BUT, the turbo regulator is referenced off the manifold pressure, ie as manifold pressure goes up, so does fuel pressure, you should get a fuel pressure gage and see where it starts at, and what happens when it starts boosting.

9C1 caprice had an LT1. Basically the same as an impalla except with an auto tranny and different quarter windows. Can be had for cheap because they were cop cars, careful finding one that has not been beat on (smaller townships police departments usually, if the only have 1 or 2 cars they take better care of them because its not as easy to get a new one.)

Thats a cool lincoln. My dad was just down in orange county to help my grampa clean out his garage. They finally uncovered his '47 Lincoln Continental. The tabs on the car are from 1959. My dad was drag racing it when he was 16 (60 now) and broke the rear end. It was towed home and parked. Its been sitting covered in the garage since then. It doesn't have the v12 anymore, instead they replaced it with a v8.

I have no idea on how getting stuff out of the armory works. Most people I know who own guns either live in housing (not in the gated area of the base) and just have to tell the base police what guns they own. Or if they live in the BEQ rent a locker at the range, they have access to it whenever the range is open. Also every base I've been on does random car searches. Open hood, trunk, any storage areas, give them insurance and registration. There have been both command wide and random "health and wellness" inspections of the BEQ. You open your door, they look through anything they want with you standing there, open panels in the ceiling, look under mattress, whatever. I know people who went to NJP for handguns, long knives, flushing agents, ect.

You're gonna want to check on being exempt on firearm laws. My experience is that you have to abide by the base laws in addition to the state laws. I wanted to buy a handgun when I was stationed in NY. But still had to have the residency requirements (1yr) and pass the application process (takes 6 months, even though the govt trusts me). I know a couple people who moved there with them, ended up having to ship them to relatives in other states. Also, every military base I've been on does not allow ANY projectiles to be brought on base (exceptions are for people performing their duties) this includes paintball, airsoft, potatoe cannons, blowguns, ect.

Theres a japanese website that has a ton of photos of a 2+2 280zx. Nice looking car. http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-223.html

Which computer do you have. I have his old SDS, he said it was programmed for ~25psi.

I have this one, I was trying to sell it a couple years ago. I have no idea who made it, came with the car. It has the stock metal frame underneath. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/DSCN0066.JPG

In the last 4 years I've moved alot. Pacific Northwest (Vashon Island) - really nice, rains a bit, temperate. Flint, MI - Really not good. Depressing. Weather is bad. Cold. Charleston SC - Hot and muggy during the summer, freezes during the winter, I didn't like it at all. Saratoga Springs NY - REALLY nice. Land can still be cheap (I have friends who lived on 100 acers for $1800 a month). Close to albany. Lots of $ in saratoga, gets cheaper fast outside. Not too far from Watkins glen, Lime rock (I like it the same as Laguna Seca), Loudin (Lots of bike stuff), and theres also one in pensylvania. Groton, CT - I don't like it, seems too much like Tacoma. Next is Guam. Should be interesting.

What I've found to not get hassled is to just not be stupid. One of my roommates had a Cobra, and drove it stupid, peeling out, racing, and got pulled over a couple times. On my R1 I don't do dumb stuff, no wheelies, no stoppies, no burnouts. About the worst I do is rev the piss out of it, I can do almost double any legal surface street speed limit in 1st gear (I've seen 97 mph, supposedly its good for 103). With that I'm just careful where I do that (divided streets, with no entrances, and the highway).

I put mine in the cold start hole. I managed to find the right NPT tap at the auto hobby shop. The hole was already there and in a nice looking spot. (right balance between heatsoaked manifold and actual intake temp was my thinking)

Theres one on ebay right now. (search for "s30 twin turbo"). I was close to buying it, but want to spend $ on components that will keep growing with the car (I want to put a rb26 in)

Part of it is that it makes it more exciting, both to watch and to be there. I was at an auction last summer in NYC which was run by a different company. There were lots of cool cars there, but the bidding seemed slow. Later in the night it picked up a little (free beer and vodka in the VIP/bidder section helped), but after the final bid it was usually "I'll check with the owner to see if he will sell it for that" instead of "SOLD SOLD SOLD" There were some cool cars there, enzo, carrera, the batmobile F50, older Maserattis and Ferraris, and a couple neat custom bikes. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/f50.jpg

I think I used the headliner from one of my parts cars and just used spray adhesive to stick it to the flapper.

If you do any aluminum you're going to need 100% argon. Helium works too (better penetration because its hotter) but is more difficult and costs more. Some places will only fill/service tanks they sell.

A friend of mine bought one with the complete rear suspension to use in a lotus 7 type project. I don't remember how the power handling for it was, I'll have to ask. From what I remember when we picked it up it was nice, everything looked solid. If I had the time/work space I would consider swapping in the entire rear suspension.

I would just reweld it, or get a radiator shop to reweld it. Anything that holds fluid should be welded without any porosity. I don't think soldering would work that well. A couple things to watch if you do. 1. If you cherry the metal (carbon steel specifically) it gets brittle and does not hold up well (someone in my class overheated their nipple on a pressure vessel, when they pressurized it it cracked in half at 200psig) 2. Solder flows to whats hot, I think that if you heated the weld bead, the surrounding sheet metal would get too hot before the entire weld was heated, causing the solder to flow to the surrounding metal rather than the weld bead like you want. 3. Don't use a propane torch, it works for thin copper pipe, but anything more substantial or with less heat transfer ability (steel) needs alot to heat, I have no idea about MAP gas, but oxyfuel can be rented easily.

St. Martins is in Olympia right? I worked with someone who went there, he seemed pretty proficent at autocad, but I got bored working inside with computers, so I went out to the tool and die shop, worked there.