jkelly

Hey, I'll print those up for you this week if you're sure you need them. I opted to replace my steering column firewall gasket because the original was falling apart and I had the steering column off for rebuilding. I can also print custom firewall wiring grommet sizes. For example, the one I printed for the wipers has a center hole size of about 3/8 to 1/2 inch which fits my wires nicely. I have a model for the seat covers. I will try to print some test ones this week and see how they turn out. Let me know if you want to go ahead with the first three items and I will get those made for you. Thanks, James

I do. PMing you now.

Didn't see your location on mobile. I'm definitely willing to help you out. I just need to make the time to pull it apart and box it up, which I likely won't be able to do until next week.

Okay. Local pickup only with the trans around the Antelope Valley CA.

Junior, yes I do have it. I'll send you a message and we can get a shipping quote going. Thanks,

Larry, I'll get my old tach down tonight and take a look at it and get back to you. James

Yeah that makes sense. Not everyone has access to a TIG welder or wants to bother with fabricating their own. A complete product would sell better, you're right. Sounds good. I'll keep you in mind when I'm going forward with my manifold.

@Gollum Any idea what the demand for these is? I was trained on our CNC machine at work the other day and I'm really wanting to machine one for myself and weld my own manifold. I would consider cutting a few of these if people are interested.

Yeah, the first person snagged it. Sorry. I've seen some on eBay for a similar price.

PM sent. Let me know because I'm making a run to USPS, UPS, and FedEx tomorrow. A sale is pending, but here are some pics. The plastic studs on the back that fasten it to the tailight are broken off.

I'm nearing the end of my build and have several parts I don't need. Prices include shipping unless otherwise noted. I'm located in Tehachapi CA. Local pick up is fine, too. N47 intake manifold with EGR block off plates (from a '78 280z) - $100 + shipping Urethane Spindle Pin Bushing Kit (rear LCA outer bushings only) -- $20 Energy Suspension polyurethane compression rod bushings -- $15 Red Interior Plastic Rivets, 70 - 73 240z - $5 per pack of 10 (4 packs available) '76 - '78 280z ECU Kick Panel Cover - $30 '78 280z Restored License Plate Light - $50 '78 280z Relay Bracket $25 280z Horn Relay (tested) - $25 280z Fuel Pump Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z A/C Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z Inhibitor Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z EFI Main Relay 25230-89970 (tested) $15 280z Fuel Pump Control Relay 25230-89966 $15 280z OEM Right Side Pillar Badge (New) - $40 240z Tailight Chrome Trim - $20 Side Marker Lenses - $5 each + shipping Rear Side Marker Light Housings - $5 each + shipping (inside has been painted white) Front Side Marker Light Housing - $5 + shipping (inside has been painted white) New Side Marker Rubber Seals - $20 for all Side Marker Chrome Trim Pieces - $5 each + shipping Front Park/Turn Signal Rubber Seals - $15 240z Painted Front Sway Bar - $20 + shipping 3D Printed Flexible Inner Mud Flaps - $7.50 each 3D Printed Flexible 240z Steering Column Firewall Gasket - $10 each 3D Printed Firewall Wiper Grommet - $5.00 each Custom 3D printed grommets, seals, gaskets, inspection light lenses, chair slider knobs, seat mechanism covers, etc. Contact me. 280z 2+2 NEW sewn-molded, black, cut-pile 5-piece carpet kit - $100 + shipping (like this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08g06b/40-2564 ) 20190326_151124.mp4

It's new from Schneider.

Bump. Reduced the price on the head again. Make me an offer on the head. It's freshly rebuilt and ready to run. You couldn't build one for the price I have it listed!

I'm looking for a custom intake manifold for my L28ET. I contacted Lonewolf Performance and he said they no longer make the custom intakes Thanks

Bump. Head is still for sale.

Is this the cooling mod you're talking about? Looks like he does all six chambers, though.

True! I'm starting to think 200hp would be plenty fun, for me. But I also think of how after riding a sport bike or fast car/truck for a while I always want more. So there's that. I also have a freshly rebuilt N47 head with a Stage 1 Schneider cam and fresh springs. I could continue to go the NA route for even cheaper than going turbo if all I'm shooting for is 200hp. It sounds like the safe rev range for stock internals is around 6000 - 6500rpm.

Interesting post! That was a good read. I will probably stay with cast pistons, especially after doing some power to weight calculations -- that really put it into perspective. Using my 345hp vehicle (5120lb curb weight) as a power-to-weight reference the equivalent 240z power would be only 155hp.

I see. I've considered building a throwaway like you mentioned, learning to tune on it, and if I destroy it I'm not out too much. The 300 number was picked from owning 350hp vehicle, albeit heavier, and thinking it would be a reasonable number for this project. I haven't driven a zcar with that much power, so you may be right and 250hp may be fun enough.

I'm leaning that way for the same reason and because the paint shop 'broke the bank' and I know the engine will end up costing more than I estimated above when it's all said and done. I would probably not want to take the engine out of the car again since it would involve removing the hood and probably the fenders in order to minimizing scratching them. I would just live with whatever power it ends up making, most likely. I've read through that a few times before. It is a lot of great information, but still not really a definitive answer. From what I gather it says going with my Option 1 I should be able to get 350whp. There seems to be several ways to get to 350whp(ish). Like ZHoob2004 mentioned a lot of people say you need to go with forged pistons with anything above 300hp, but is that considering that you have a MSIII tunable management computer to control detonation? Forged does buy you extra safety margin against detonation, but detonation can destroy a forged piston/ring, too, so is it really worth an extra $1200 for this kind of build? Could I create the same peace of mind and reliability with cast pistons by ensuring I tune properly? EDIT: a word

Thanks for the responses guys. This is a slow process for me, but I'm trying to figure out what direction I want to go with this engine. I'm weighing several different options from just using the pistons I have (cast flat tops) with the stock P90 head to overboring with JE flat tops and a built head (cam, race springs, etc.) from RaceTep. Again, my HP goals are mid 300s -- I think should be a pretty fun number for a weekend driver/occasional track car. I'm leaning towards Option 1 below since I already have the rebuilt head and can tune with MSIII to mitigate detonation risks and not worry too much about the cast pistons being a weak link (?). I'm looking for comments suggestions on the options below. Are options 2 and 3 overkill for the goals I have? 'Free' means I already have it. Option 1: Stock Flat Top Block and Stock Head MSIII (Free) Stock P90 head (already rebuilt) (Free) Cast Flat Top Pistons in 86.5mm (Free) ARP Hardware rods, mains, head (Free) New rings ($100) Rod and Main Bearings ($169) Turbo (T3/T04E 54 Trim 0.063 A/R) ($800) Turbo Oil Pump ($100) MLS Gasket ($150) Intercooler ($400) Machine shop work ($300, hot tank, mag, bore, deck block) Total ~$2019.00 Option 2: Forged Block and Built Head MSIII (Free) JE Forged Pistons with rings and options ($1237) ARP Hardware (Free) P90 Stainless Steel Valves ($250) Race Valve Springs ($169) Custom Cam Grind ($189) Rod and Main Bearings ($169) Turbo (T3/T04E 54 Trim 0.063 A/R) ($800) Turbo Oil Pump ($100) MLS Gasket ($150) Intercooler ($400) Machine shop work ($600, bore block and head assembly) Total ~$4064.00 Options 3: Forged Block and Stock Head MSIII (Free) Stock P90 head (already rebuilt) (Free) ARP Hardware (Free) JE Forged Pistons with rings and options ($1237) New rings ($100) Rod and Main Bearings ($169) Turbo (T3/T04E 54 Trim 0.063 A/R) ($800) Turbo Oil Pump ($100) MLS Gasket ($150) Intercooler ($400) Machine shop work ($300, hot tank, mag, bore, deck block) Total ~$3256.00

Rear bumper sold

Cast ITM 86.5mm flat top pistons in great shape. I only ran this at idle in my L28 rebuild a few times before deciding to go a different direction with the engine. How much do you think I could get for the 6 pistons (no rods, pins, or rings). Thanks,

I'm converting my L28 to a turbo and using the P90 head with the stock 'B' grind cam. I currently have the block torn down and I figured while I'm in there I was going to go with all ARP hardware and also buy forged pistons (I'm looking at JEs). My question is should I go with forged dished pistons for a lower CR or go with forged flat tops? I know a lot of guys run the flat top + P90 setup with success, but a lot of the reasons behind that allude me. For a reliable weekend warrior street driven car with initial horsepower goals in the mid 300's what would be the best route? I'm buying forged pistons either way. I'm also going with a larger aftermarket turbo, intercooler, and Megasquirt III.

Does anyone have a source for 86.5mm piston rings for L28 flat tops? I can find them for 280zx pistons (not sure of the difference) but not my L28 flat tops with a 0.5mm over bore.