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jkelly

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Everything posted by jkelly

  1. jkelly
    Looks good. I might be interested. I was thinking of mine the other day. Mine are pretty crude as they were cut out with a plasma torch.
  2. jkelly
    I could possibly do a carbon fiber or fiberglass aftermarket of these if anyone is interested. Didn't realize they were hard to find. I have a LH and RH like this. I think these are for a 77-78 280z?
  3. jkelly
    I have lowers for sale over in parts for sale.
  4. jkelly
    Patched some slightly rotten areas on the passenger side floor pan after work this week. Cut the corner from the Zedd Findings floor pan I had and used a piece of 16 gauge and a flat headed chisel to make a step on the end. The holes I cutout in the floor pan. Not bad compared to the passenger side. Ready to weld in the corner piece. Using Upol #2 weld thru primer for the laps. Welded in. Not perfect, but I'm seam sealing and everything will be covered with carpet, so I'm not too concerned with it being perfect. I'll have plenty of time to be OCD on things I will actually see every time I get in the car! Other piece welded in. Shout out to 559240z for hooking me up with this sweet battery box! I'm really excited about trimming this and getting it welded in. Next step will be to bend up the under-floor 16 gauge frame rails on the brake, weld those in, and weld in the Bad Dog frame extenders. After that I'm thinking maybe the battery box. Then inspection of the dog legs and a few little rust spots on the door threshold areas. Still have to drop the rear suspension, sand blast, paint, install bushings, bearings, etc. and install bushings/bearings on the front suspension, too. Lots of stuff to do.
  5. jkelly
    Interesting! I never knew that. I'll have to take a look at my 280 and see what ya mean. Are you getting floors from a donor car or going with some pre-fabbed ones?
  6. jkelly
    Feels great. Still need to weld a few stretches on the bottom side of it, but essentially done. Why the 240z floors and rails in a 280?
  7. jkelly
    What a compliment! Thanks a bunch. I probably took twice as long as most people. I'm just glad the driver side isn't going to require a full pan replacement. I still need to replace the dreaded battery box area and I'll have the major rust/rot taken care of. Woohoo!
  8. jkelly
    Finally got the passenger side floor pan welded in. Rusty piece behind the seat Fabricated a new piece for behind the seat. Test fitting it Old floor pan Floor pan clecoed in and almost ready to weld Welded in I've started working on the driver side now. Only a few small spots failed the screwdriver stabbing test, so I'm only going to replace those small sections. I also ordered some Bad Dog frame rail extenders or whatever they're called. I'm going to fabricate the sections under the floor pans myself.
  9. jkelly

    my 240

    Images added to a gallery album owned by jkelly in Members Albums

  10. jkelly

    battery Box dimensions

    jkelly posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    battery Box dimensions

    From the album: my 240

  11. jkelly
    Ah, great! That's good to hear. I'm getting burned out on sheet metal fabrication and ready to get on to something else! Thanks
  12. jkelly
    Hey guys, I've been looking for a solid battery box sheet metal section for my '72 240z. I'm wondering if the contours for that area are the same between the 240s and 280s? Thanks,
  13. jkelly
    I'm looking for a cutout battery tray sheet metal section to weld into my '72 240z. I live in Southern CA and can come cut it out myself if you have a parts car. Thanks,
  14. jkelly
    The first three pics are located on the transmission tunnel edge where I'm going to butt weld the floor pan to. The last picture is located behind the rear seat brackets where the floor pan lap welds in.
  15. jkelly
    I haven't worked on the car in a while but made a little progress on the passenger side floor pan this past weekend. Started shaping the transmission tunnel curve of the floor pan and did some more shaping on the front and rear ends of the pan. Also clecoed the pan in several places. I still need to add some metal to the transmission tunnel edge and replace and patch a few other spots near the rear end of the pan. Then it will be ready to weld in. Picture of floorpan progress. I really wanted to get you guys' opinion on some pitted metal and if I should cut it out or not. You guys gave some good advice a while back on this same subject but it was hard to see the extent of the pitting. I've taken the wire brush wheel to these sections so you can see the extent of the pitting. Should I cut out/weld in, or just treat these? Thanks guys
  16. jkelly
    So here's where the passenger side floor pan is at right now. Still a good bit of tweaking to do but the basic shape is there. I'll need to add a little material to the inboard edge too.
  17. jkelly
    I ended up going for it with these floor pans. I'll take some pictures when I get home today, but I hammered the bent inboard edge flat, tried my best to trace the curvature of the transmission tunnel on to the floor pan, and used a bossing mallet and panelbeater sand bag to slowly beat the new bend into the floor pan. I haven't worked a whole lot on the front and rear edge of the floor pan, but I've got it kind of close between hammering on it and hammering on the existing car metal. I'll keep you updated. Thanks! It's amazing what you can use from the crap you have just lying around the garage. I've been using my cutting torch gas cylinder caps and trailer hitch balls as vise mounted hammering stakes to form curves. I was looking at your thread just yesterday, now that's some killer work! Looking great.
  18. jkelly
    Update: I've been working the floor pans and surrounding metal for a few hours and it fits better. Still not there yet and still seems like the pans should fit better. I'm guessing he makes them from original or replica dies?
  19. jkelly
    It's been a while, but I've finally started on the floor pans. Trying to knock out the passenger side first, as it was the worst. I ordered two Zedd Findings floor pans and from all of the reading I've done I expected to have to do some modifications to the floor pans for them to fit properly, especially on the inboard sides to match up with the transmission tunnel. I'm a little surprised at how poorly they fit on the outboard side though and am curious what you guys have done, or if you've had the same experience. See the two attached pictures for an example. The first picture shows the rear outboard corner bottom side. The bend in the floor pan is pretty far off from the bend in the original metal, when the floor pan is centered. I suppose it may match up better after everything is clecoed down, but I'm curious if you guys have had the same experience with these floor pans?
  20. jkelly
    I'll be honest I was a little disappointed with the 3M wand. I had to thin the POR15 way more than the recommended amount and it still didn't spray evenly. The Cavity wax didn't require any thinning, but the wand still didn't seem to spray it evenly. I had to make several passes and I still don't think I got an even coating. Not sure what wand/gun setup would be better. I was using an Astro 4538 gun around 40 psi.
  21. jkelly
    Good call! Something like that will definitely work. I had tunnel vision looking for the grommet style, but the push plugs should work great. Thanks!
  22. jkelly
    Thanks for the compliments, guys! I do plan to fab some 16ga rails to go under the floor pans. Floor pans should be coming in today. 4.8240z, I just finished reading your thread and I'm going through the same thing with trying to coat the inside. I sprayed POR15 using a 3M wand down the frame rails and masked off where I was going to weld. Then went back and sprayed Upol #2 weld through primer in those spots. I also used some 3M cavity wax on top of the paint, but not in the weld area. Will probably drill a small hole through the footbox area into the frame rail cavity to finish it up with cavity wax, and then plug it with a rubber grommet or something. That was my idea anyway. Can't seem to find rubber grommets for 20ga panel thickness.
  23. jkelly
    So I was checking out the interior this evening and opened the two storage hatches behind the seats and found a few artifacts of a good time had many moons ago. Also came with original manuals. And original jacking equipment. Does anyone know if the chocks are original? In the glove box was DMV registration records back to the mid 70's. Pretty cool.
  24. jkelly
    Make some more rust repair progress today. I seam sealed the front frame rail and sprayed 3M Rust Fighter cavity wax on top of the POR15 inside the frame rail. Also welded in the inner fender patch panel and closed out the frame rail. Cavity wax inside the frame rail. This stuff is a lot thicker than I thought it would be. Seam sealer applied and ready to go. I'm using 3M 08360. For the inner fender patch, I wanted a tighter fit where it meets the firewall, so I modified it -- chopped off the rounded end and made a wedge shape and welded the two pieces together. Drilled spot weld holes in the patch. Coated the backside with Upol weld through primer. Clamped in place and ready to weld. Welded in and semi-smoothed welds. Went ahead and shot some rattle can on it. I'm about to go home for Christmas and won't be able to work on it for a couple of weeks. I still have some areas to smooth out, but I'm pretty happy with the repairs, I think. Looking forward to getting the floor pans in now!
  25. jkelly
    Welded in the bottom of the front passenger frame rail. Sprayed POR15 into the front frame rail too. I also trimmed the inner fender patch I made a while ago and put a bend in it to mate with the rest of the panel. Also ordered two floor pans from Charlie at Zedd Findings. Test fit of trimmed inner fender. Lower frame rail. Lower frame rail. Undercoating gun and wand I use to spray metal ready and POR15. Inside frame rail before. Not that bad looking. After I'm going to also spray some 3M cavity wax in there for extra protection against the rust monster.
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