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jkelly

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Everything posted by jkelly

  1. Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
  2. Digging the village ski hill! Nice composite work, too. What are you repairing on the bottom of those three scoops? Looks like some Everglass in there. It kind of looks like the composite cracked off further in and that's what you're replacing?
  3. Very cool. I'll check that out. I finally assembled the steering column. I had to machine a new end bearing sleeve for the needle bearing in the end of the steering column. Everything went back together great and the column feels sweet. No freeplay or binding. Shooting for a maiden voyage of the car this weekend. 4+ years coming! The old broken sleeve and needle bearing. The sleeve I machined, the rubber isolator, and the needle bearing. Bonus doggo.
  4. Excellent. Glad you got the bearing out without damage. If you want some new 1/8" balls shoot me a PM and I'll send them your way free of charge. I bought 100 of them after all. What body kit is that? It looks far out. Gotta make room for those wheels. I'm on Konig Rewind 15"x 7s. What's your tire size?
  5. There's this forum post that kind of describes the process: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/steering-column-fix-15966/ Also this manual that has some decent diagrams that might help: http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBILE/NISSAN/240z/1973/ST Steering.pdf This post talks about the process in good detail, too. Try searching for "bearing" in this post: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/datsun-nissan-garage/4020-project-s30z-my-swiss-datsun-240z-1972/page40 Good luck!
  6. Hey, thanks! I know how the delays go. I'm 4+ years in now, but almost there. That last 10% takes twice as long as the rest. I can't recall how I got the bearings out, but I imagine I used a pipe of some sort to hammer them out. Maybe even a PVC pipe. I will go back through my pictures and see if I have some that show that. Also, I would not recommend removing the needle bearing in the end of the steering column. It's not meant to be removed and I did destroy part of it. It's a needle bearing surrounded by a rubber bushing and encased in a metal sleeve. I damaged the sleeve and need to machine a new one. I was able to find a replacement bearing, but not replacement rubber isolator and metal casing. The other bearings, though, are 1/8". https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PQLP9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Recently I put in a new headliner. This wasn't as difficult as it seemed at first, but it certainly helps having two people there. I also started putting in new window header vinyl. This took a few tries to get it smooth. I'll upload final pics of this tonight or tomorrow. I also rebuilt the quarter windows with new inner and outer weatherstripping. These were pretty hard to get back into the car because the weatherstripping doesn't like to compress. I found using longer M4 screws helps to grab the screw hole threads and pull it in. This would have been easier with two people -- one person pushing on the window while another threads in the four screws. I also started laying down the interior vinyl (transmission tunnel, strut towers, inner-rockers, wheel-wells, etc. I went with 15" graphite Konig Rewinds for wheels. I put these on and over the the course of just 48 hours the car settled and the tire/fender gap looks great now!
  8. I'll follow up on this for archive/search purposes since it's been resolved. I did get the car to finally start using the following settings and in full sequential and COP mode with no CAM Fault and full sync. I'm not sure why it didn't start the first time I had this settings burned on the MS3. I did find my timing was off by 10º BTDC and it's possible the required fuel and VE table may have not been dialed in well enough. Thanks to Matt at DIYAutoTune for helping out.
  9. Wow it's been a long time since I've posted. I've been working hard on the Megasquirt 3 with COP and full sequential. I've also been working on the interior, dash, etc. Here's a quick break down of what I've done since the last update: New VintageDash Dash is assembled with SpeedHut gauges Bored the engine to 87mm Moly coated JE Forged pistons with contact reduction and accumulator grooves ARP rod, main, and head bolts/studs installed New timing components installed Turbo oil pump installed T3/T04E Garret Turbo 50Trim 0.63A/R. Ceramic coated. Ceramic coated exhaust header with external wastegate piping TiAL BOV and Wastegate install Treadstone Intercooler install Champion 4-row radiator installed Twin 12" electric fan install 3" stainless steel exhaust from turbo back. Custom welded. Wideband O2 installed in exhaust DG508 coils installed Palnet fuel rail installed RRFPR installed Gas tank installed Fuel surge tank installed Carter P4070 lift pump and Walbro GSL39 primary fuel pump installed Classic Tube stainless steel fuel hardlines installed from Classic Tube stainless steel brake lines installed Custom fabricated braided SS brake lines Installed brake booster Installed brake master cylinder Installed clutch master cylinder Installed E-brake cable Engine run at idle on full sequential and COP Reflectix heat shield installed on interior Leather diamond stiched vinyl installed 20190909_200433_1.mp4 20190703_194045.mp4
  10. I tried adding 360 degrees to the tooth 1 angle to put the cam in the other phase per Matt Cramer's suggestion. This seemed to get rid of the cam fault during cranking, but now the engine will not start. The engine only starts with Second Trigger set to Poll Level in Full Sequential/COP but always has the cam fault. I've tried the other 4 combinations of Ignition Input Capture and Second Trigger Active On and the engine will not start. It fires a few times but then dies. I've tried adjusting the required fuel up and down as well as the VE table and I still can't get it to start.
  11. Hey y'all, I'm a little stuck on the cam fault issue I'm having in Tuner Studio. Here's my setup: Turbo Datsun 240z Full Sequential/Coil On Plug 440cc Supra Injectors DIYAutoTune CAS Wheel in an '83 280zx Distributor IAT MAP Wideband LC-2 DG508 Coils Powerforce Damper I went through all of the checkouts in the manual using the JimStim and JimStimX. Using the JimStimX, though, the correct setting for 'Second Trigger Active On' ended up being Falling Edge. When I installed the MS3 in the car I can only get it running with 'Second Trigger Active On' set as Poll Level. It idles but I get a Cam Fault in Tunerstudio. I attached my msq and a composite log. Looking at the composite log and the physical CAS wheel it seems like the cam trigger should be aligned with the 11th tooth, but it's not. I've read elsewhere that this fault is because the cam signal is on the wrong phase. I tried switching the CAS wheel and distributor (not the shaft but the distributor itself) orientation 180 degrees to no avail. Any insight into what's going on here? 2019-09-13_16.46.35.msq 2019-09-13_16.04.34.csv
  12. Still looking for a 5 speed wide ratio trans. I have 240z and 280z parts to trade if interested.
  13. Hey, I'll print those up for you this week if you're sure you need them. I opted to replace my steering column firewall gasket because the original was falling apart and I had the steering column off for rebuilding. I can also print custom firewall wiring grommet sizes. For example, the one I printed for the wipers has a center hole size of about 3/8 to 1/2 inch which fits my wires nicely. I have a model for the seat covers. I will try to print some test ones this week and see how they turn out. Let me know if you want to go ahead with the first three items and I will get those made for you. Thanks, James
  14. Didn't see your location on mobile. I'm definitely willing to help you out. I just need to make the time to pull it apart and box it up, which I likely won't be able to do until next week.
  15. Okay. Local pickup only with the trans around the Antelope Valley CA.
  16. Junior, yes I do have it. I'll send you a message and we can get a shipping quote going. Thanks,
  17. Larry, I'll get my old tach down tonight and take a look at it and get back to you. James
  18. Yeah that makes sense. Not everyone has access to a TIG welder or wants to bother with fabricating their own. A complete product would sell better, you're right. Sounds good. I'll keep you in mind when I'm going forward with my manifold.
  19. @Gollum Any idea what the demand for these is? I was trained on our CNC machine at work the other day and I'm really wanting to machine one for myself and weld my own manifold. I would consider cutting a few of these if people are interested.
  20. Yeah, the first person snagged it. Sorry. I've seen some on eBay for a similar price.
  21. PM sent. Let me know because I'm making a run to USPS, UPS, and FedEx tomorrow. A sale is pending, but here are some pics. The plastic studs on the back that fasten it to the tailight are broken off.
  22. I'm nearing the end of my build and have several parts I don't need. Prices include shipping unless otherwise noted. I'm located in Tehachapi CA. Local pick up is fine, too. N47 intake manifold with EGR block off plates (from a '78 280z) - $100 + shipping Urethane Spindle Pin Bushing Kit (rear LCA outer bushings only) -- $20 Energy Suspension polyurethane compression rod bushings -- $15 Red Interior Plastic Rivets, 70 - 73 240z - $5 per pack of 10 (4 packs available) '76 - '78 280z ECU Kick Panel Cover - $30 '78 280z Restored License Plate Light - $50 '78 280z Relay Bracket $25 280z Horn Relay (tested) - $25 280z Fuel Pump Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z A/C Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z Inhibitor Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z EFI Main Relay 25230-89970 (tested) $15 280z Fuel Pump Control Relay 25230-89966 $15 280z OEM Right Side Pillar Badge (New) - $40 240z Tailight Chrome Trim - $20 Side Marker Lenses - $5 each + shipping Rear Side Marker Light Housings - $5 each + shipping (inside has been painted white) Front Side Marker Light Housing - $5 + shipping (inside has been painted white) New Side Marker Rubber Seals - $20 for all Side Marker Chrome Trim Pieces - $5 each + shipping Front Park/Turn Signal Rubber Seals - $15 240z Painted Front Sway Bar - $20 + shipping 3D Printed Flexible Inner Mud Flaps - $7.50 each 3D Printed Flexible 240z Steering Column Firewall Gasket - $10 each 3D Printed Firewall Wiper Grommet - $5.00 each Custom 3D printed grommets, seals, gaskets, inspection light lenses, chair slider knobs, seat mechanism covers, etc. Contact me. 280z 2+2 NEW sewn-molded, black, cut-pile 5-piece carpet kit - $100 + shipping (like this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08g06b/40-2564 ) 20190326_151124.mp4
  23. Bump. Reduced the price on the head again. Make me an offer on the head. It's freshly rebuilt and ready to run. You couldn't build one for the price I have it listed!
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